Engine Oils

[Eshan-P180]

Actually i disagree
Mr. Muscle cleaner first isnt an edble oil..its a cleaner to remove stains in kitchen...i see no reason it cannot be used on the cooling fins of the engine to clean it...many use prill too...come on its just a metal and u arent putting any Mr. Muscle inside the engine..its just on the outside...and i dont see any way it would harm the internal parts...

No no you got me wrong. All I meant was that it is used to clean edible oil stains and not engine oil stains.

No he means that Mr muscle is used for edible oil stains

Perfecto

i suppose though being different kind of oil.....a soaps job is to remove that oil...and i am sure u can...dont u clean ur dirty hand with grease and stuff..or may be engine oil which gets on ur hand while changing oil in ur bike... with normal soap? or u go to use WD-40 to clean ur hand...? and i dont think engine fins have engine oil on it unless ur engine head is leaking....the dirt is from the road...go ahead and clean.

It can be used, no doubt but the quantity required to clean the dirt and grime would be more for which his mum might shout for finishing it. BTDT, got a very bad shouting!

It is apt but jyada lagega aur fir bottle khatam hua toh fir baji uski ghanti!!

EDIT- Thats why I mentioned WD40

[psr]

well the CV carb theory was new form me and quite informative thanks...

i have a question specifically for you as u have posted this same graph in many threads and explained the distribution of power based on the gas emission.

I recently went for my bikes 2nd service..i had myself tuned the carb and i felt nil vibes and good pick up..no sort of power loss ..infact it was better than ever...awesome acceleration..i had tuned it half a turn to rich....at the SVC while tuning we found out CO% was 9%

now according to this graph there is significant power loss at 9% CO

now my current tuning is at 2-2.25% CO and i dont enjoy the same pick up and acceleration and there are a few vibes(bearable and can be ignored)

now if the near perfect mix is at what my current tune is

how can u explain that at a 9% CO rich setting where there should be loss of power..i had more power and at 2% acceleration is less

at second service oil was changed from a dirty dtsi oil to a new motul 3000

now the only possible answers that i find is either the machine has errors(showing greater reading than actual) and my mixture is now lean and earlier it was a little rich

OR

the graph is not accurate

also the CO reading was taken at a opening from the exhaust pipe which is just in from of the gear box and not at the actual underbelly exhaust opening

While where we monitor AFR does make a difference, I am glad about the point you asked ...the pertinent question regarding theory and actual on AFR.
What we normally read is the idle condition AFR, and not throughout the RPM range...an ideal condition would have been to check at every 500 RPM for the entire RPM range from idle to Max...since it is presumed that the manufacturer takes care of the AFR throughout the RPM range, we check only the Idle RPM AFR reading.....
In other countries it is checked at other RPMs also,and only if the engine emission is within stipulated limits, the vehicle will be certified fit to run on roads...for example the UK has what is known as MOT test and it is very exhaustive...here is a link to the test..

MOT UK car and vehicle MOT information equipment car servicing parts and spares - exhaust emissions

With regards to your specific question as to how your bike acceleration is superior with 9% Co and not with 2 %, the answer lies in the fact that when you accelerate, the instant the throttle is opened more air is allowed inside....and this makes a correctly set AFR immediately lean because of the rush of air through the carburetor venturi ....the rush of air ,creates a vacuum which picks up the petrol ,through the Emulsion tube ,from the Petrol bowl,which then joins the intake air to form a AF mix...this produces a leaning effect initially, and so lesser acceleration...with 9% Co, you have set a rich AFR which enables a better ,richer AFR to be present at the time of opening the throttle,thereby reducing leaning of AFR, and hence better acceleration......This effect is more in CV carburation..
A conventional carb., with Cable operating the slide, will actually operate opposite of this..ie., if you suddenly open throttle, the AFR mix will become excessively rich , and cause engine sputtering...
Hence it is better to accelerate smoothly to have better FE and better engine life.

THANK YOU for raising a very valid Point..

[sinnerz2000]

No no you got me wrong. All I meant was that it is used to clean edible oil stains and not engine oil stains.



Perfecto



It can be used, no doubt but the quantity required to clean the dirt and grime would be more for which his mum might shout for finishing it. BTDT, got a very bad shouting!

It is apt but jyada lagega aur fir bottle khatam hua toh fir baji uski ghanti!!

EDIT- Thats why I mentioned WD40

How much is wd40? Mr muscle spray bottle is just 70 bucks, I just have to spray some nd leave it for sometime, lol I don't need to wash the engine with it that it'll get ova.

[Eshan-P180]

How much is wd40? Mr muscle spray bottle is just 70 bucks, I just have to spray some nd leave it for sometime, lol I don't need to wash the engine with it that it'll get ova.

WD40 cost around rs 250 to 270. If you plan to use it only for the cleaning oil stains on the engine then consider this 400ml can to last atleast for two years. If you include degressing the motorcycle chain before wash then 1 year minimum.

Its a strong degreaser.

Pls check my signature.

[B7ACKTHORN]

Actually i disagree
Mr. Muscle cleaner first isnt an edble oil..its a cleaner to remove stains in kitchen...i see no reason it cannot be used on the cooling fins of the engine to clean it...many use prill too...come on its just a metal and u arent putting any Mr. Muscle inside the engine..its just on the outside...and i dont see any way it would harm the internal parts...

I walked into the kitchen today looking for food nd I saw a bottle of Mr muscle cleaner, it says it removes grease nd oil stains, can this be used on the engine between the gaps to remove the grease?

Pril, Mr Muscle cleaner and WD40 are all different leagues, though Pril and Mr. Muscle are basically for the same job, WD40 is more or less "multi-purpose" not all purpose mind you. As mayank said, it's not edible, of course it's not edible, but cleaning motor oil stains is best left to WD40 and Pril and Mr Muscle can be used to remove those oil stains, lens cleaning, etc.

If you have something that's hard and need to lubricate it and protect it from water, WD40 is ones best bet. If one wants to clean the surface from oily and slightly stubborn substances, Mr. Muscle is the thing, but personally didn't find much difference than a soap oil, though soap oil I would have need to scrub n number of times, Muscle takes around six to seven scrubs.

@Mayank, the carb idle, PSR's picture is right, but the variability differs from engine to engine and given cylinders etc.

Cheers!
VJ

[mayank.travadi]

While where we monitor AFR does make a difference, I am glad about the point you asked ...the pertinent question regarding theory and actual on AFR.
What we normally read is the idle condition AFR, and not throughout the RPM range...an ideal condition would have been to check at every 500 RPM for the entire RPM range from idle to Max...since it is presumed that the manufacturer takes care of the AFR throughout the RPM range, we check only the Idle RPM AFR reading.....
In other countries it is checked at other RPMs also,and only if the engine emission is within stipulated limits, the vehicle will be certified fit to run on roads...for example the UK has what is known as MOT test and it is very exhaustive...here is a link to the test..

MOT UK car and vehicle MOT information equipment car servicing parts and spares - exhaust emissions

With regards to your specific question as to how your bike acceleration is superior with 9% Co and not with 2 %, the answer lies in the fact that when you accelerate, the instant the throttle is opened more air is allowed inside....and this makes a correctly set AFR immediately lean because of the rush of air through the carburetor venturi ....the rush of air ,creates a vacuum which picks up the petrol ,through the Emulsion tube ,from the Petrol bowl,which then joins the intake air to form a AF mix...this produces a leaning effect initially, and so lesser acceleration...with 9% Co, you have set a rich AFR which enables a better ,richer AFR to be present at the time of opening the throttle,thereby reducing leaning of AFR, and hence better acceleration......This effect is more in CV carburation..
A conventional carb., with Cable operating the slide, will actually operate opposite of this..ie., if you suddenly open throttle, the AFR mix will become excessively rich , and cause engine sputtering...
Hence it is better to accelerate smoothly to have better FE and better engine life.

THANK YOU for raising a very valid Point..

WOW..thats a very EXHAUSTIVE test :P

so the tuning actually should be done for range of all RPM but no one does it here...??

Learnt something new again from you today... thanks a lot and i hope it isnt much trouble to answer such questions.

I now understand how my earlier tuning gave better pick up and current tuning isnt giving the same...but the steady throttle small changes in speed performance s the same for both tuning...so i was kinda wasting fuel earlier...didnt know this is how a CV carb work

If not too much trouble can u explain how in a conventional car the mixture becomes richer...and which is a better carb?

an OT question but related to carbs...i have read that while going down a slop we should never pull in clutch and move in idle...its unsafe..always to be in gear and while going down release the throttle....it is noticed that while going down a slope in gear with no throttle opened the rpms increase due to increase in rear wheel speed....i even read that no petrl is consumed in this method but how come?? i read that ownly air is sucked and compressed and pushed out of the engine...so basically u are burning only air...how come this happens? if air is sucked in wont it pick up petrol....? and this would happen in both CV and conventional carb right?

[sinnerz2000]

Pril, Mr Muscle cleaner and WD40 are all different leagues, though Pril and Mr. Muscle are basically for the same job, WD40 is more or less "multi-purpose" not all purpose mind you. As mayank said, it's not edible, of course it's not edible, but cleaning motor oil stains is best left to WD40 and Pril and Mr Muscle can be used to remove those oil stains, lens cleaning, etc.

If you have something that's hard and need to lubricate it and protect it from water, WD40 is ones best bet. If one wants to clean the surface from oily and slightly stubborn substances, Mr. Muscle is the thing, but personally didn't find much difference than a soap oil, though soap oil I would have need to scrub n number of times, Muscle takes around six to seven scrubs.

@Mayank, the carb idle, PSR's picture is right, but the variability differs from engine to engine and given cylinders etc.

Cheers!
VJ

I think ur mistaken Mr muscle for a dish wash liquid like prill or a glass cleaner like Colin, its not that, its acidic so it can't be used on lenses, wd40 is way too expensive I just want to clean the grime and dirt from my engine, I guess I'll use Mr muscle only

[muztariq]

Can we please keep this thread limited to engine oil.

[sinnerz2000]

Can we please keep this thread limited to engine oil.

Yea sure, anyone tried ax7 on a uni?

[psr]

WOW..thats a very EXHAUSTIVE test :P

so the tuning actually should be done for range of all RPM but no one does it here...??

Learnt something new again from you today... thanks a lot and i hope it isnt much trouble to answer such questions.

I now understand how my earlier tuning gave better pick up and current tuning isnt giving the same...but the steady throttle small changes in speed performance s the same for both tuning...so i was kinda wasting fuel earlier...didnt know this is how a CV carb work

here are some links on CV carbs....

Care & Feeding Of The Keihin Carb

CV Carb Tuning Procedures

CV Carb Tuning Procedures

If not too much trouble can u explain how in a conventional car the mixture becomes richer...and which is a better carb?

an OT question but related to carbs...i have read that while going down a slop we should never pull in clutch and move in idle...its unsafe..always to be in gear and while going down release the throttle....it is noticed that while going down a slope in gear with no throttle opened the rpms increase due to increase in rear wheel speed....i even read that no petrl is consumed in this method but how come?? i read that ownly air is sucked and compressed and pushed out of the engine...so basically u are burning only air...how come this happens? if air is sucked in wont it pick up petrol....? and this would happen in both CV and conventional carb right?

Most cars these days have Fuel Injection and not Carburetors.....and those which have have carb., ...the throttle butterfly is directly operated by the accelerator cable, and the carb has a AFR screw just like the bike carb....
While coming down hill it is advised to have the vehicle in gear to use the Engine(gear) braking,and prevents excessive brake component heating ,and wear,due to continuous brake application to moderate the speed.at this time accelerator will be at rest , and the vehicle is driven down the slope due to natural gravity and slope..with accelerator closed there will be minimal fuel flowing ,..ie., only at idle RPM level.....this also means that the engine will be breathing minimal air....thus increasing Vacuum and compression resistance,alternatively, which forms the core of engine braking.....

[B7ACKTHORN]

Yea sure, anyone tried ax7 on a uni?

Brother, kindly please don't start all over again, please. It went from carbs to idles to chokes to dishwash liquids, What next's? God forbid I don't know.
I think you've gotten all the answers back right.

I've used the AX7 for my bike for more than 8k KMS. Performance wise it's not much appreciative or undermining, used it because did the head on my bike. PERIOD.

Cheers!
VJ

[psr]

Sorry...guess most OTs were triggered by my replies....

[Traveller01]

Yea sure, anyone tried ax7 on a uni?

you mean shell ax7? One of my friend is using it on his unicorn & he says that the gear shifts are better on the butter smooth engine. He was previously using honda semi synthetic oil. O.T: Guys if this kitchen cleaning chemicals are good for cleaning the engine from outside then 'Harpic' should be the best to flush the engine :-D

[mayank.travadi]

Sorry...guess most OTs were triggered by my replies....

In that case i should be the one apologizing because of asking a series of questions

[sunilyo]

I walked into the kitchen today looking for food nd I saw a bottle of Mr muscle cleaner, it says it removes grease nd oil stains, can this be used on the engine between the gaps to remove the grease?

to clean oil stains best use kerosene and a small brush. Cheap and effective or go for a de-greaser like cyclo / gunk etc. though a bit on the costly side.