Engine Oils

[mayank.travadi]

You want my personal opinion go for 90EP.

Cheers!
VJ

just for knowledge sake..i am sure there are advantages and disdvantages of everything....on which factor does 20W40 score over 90EP?

[B7ACKTHORN]

just for knowledge sake..i am sure there are advantages and disdvantages of everything....on which factor does 20W40 score over 90EP?

Thickness and viscosity. And to an extent shear resistance.

Cheers!
VJ

[mayank.travadi]

Thickness and viscosity. And to an extent shear resistance.

Cheers!
VJ

IN your previous post u said 90EP is thicker and better...and now u said 20W40 is better due to thickness...why the contradiction?

[B7ACKTHORN]

IN your previous post u said 90EP is thicker and better...and now u said 20W40 is better due to thickness...why the contradiction?

I meant it for 90EP not, 20w40.

Cheers
VJ

[muztariq]

Remembering a post from Pinakiji which clearly stated EP90 and 20W40 have same viscosity.

Searching the net validated it.

[B7ACKTHORN]

Remembering a post from Pinakiji which clearly stated EP90 and 20W40 have same viscosity.

Searching the net validated it.

Perhaps, some, but not all oil grades I guess. As you know even mineral oils are used in gearboxes and I don't think using a mineral oil in a gearbox, nothing is radical is gonna happen. EP Oils in and of itself aren't radically different, as you know different oils have dfferent, viscosity and different flash pour point etc etc. The prime factor deciding what makes a gear oil a gear oil is the so called extreme pressure additives. Even there are fully synthetic gearbox/tranny oils available.

Some gear oils though a little thinner, assist in the lubrication, though even thicker grades are available in the market.

That's why they use the same oil both in gearbox and the axles. And if you even go back a few pages, I've explained how they both are the same and just the numbers differ. But any day an EP is different to Motor oil.

Cheers!
VJ

[Calculus]

Hi, have a query. Gave my bike for a oil change(Castrol Power 1 10w40) to the local mechanic. He added a supplement called MOA. Googled a bit to find how it adds any enhancement but couldn't find useful answers. Kindly throw some light on the usage of the supplement with the Engine oil. TIA

[B7ACKTHORN]

Hi, have a query. Gave my bike for a oil change(Castrol Power 1 10w40) to the local mechanic. He added a supplement called MOA. Googled a bit to find how it adds any enhancement but couldn't find useful answers. Kindly throw some light on the usage of the supplement with the Engine oil. TIA

BG Products, Inc.

Here is the link for MOA. Supplements do protect your engine, don't expect any crazy protection offered. Perhaps this can help.

Cheers!
VJ

[Pinaki]

Remembering a post from Pinakiji which clearly stated EP90 and 20W40 have same viscosity.
Searching the net validated it.

If I did say that , I have made a mistake . Please excuse .
SAE engine oil and gear(transmission oil) numbers are on a different scale , so they are not directly comparable . SAE90 grade gear oil (EP or not) is nearly same to a SAE40 grade motor oil ( mono grade 40 , NOT a multigrade like 20w40 etc ) . Actually it's between SAE30 and SAE40 engine oil grade . This is when it's at normal temperatures . Then the 20w40 multigrade engine oil is like a SAE20 monograde oil in viscosity .
However the SAE90 oil is not multigrade , so when temperature rises to near engine's operational temps and the 20w40 starts behaving like a 40 grade oil in film retention and viscosity(flow) then they would be nearly similar in these properties . Nearly , but not the same .... there are other differences between the behaviours of a single grade oil and a multigrade . Even when hot , SAE90 gear oil's behaviour would be very close to that of a single grade SAE30 to SAE40 engine oil .
Now EP(extreme pressure) additives are sulphur compounds added to gear oils . In olden days , truckers used to actually pour powdered sulphur into their transmissions and axles . It forms a film on the gear teeth metal and prevents wear from the constant meshing action(shear) of the gears . EP oils are not to be used where bronze, brass and copper bush and shims etc are used , it corrodes them .
Guess I have been able to complicate the matter further for you all .

Hi, have a query. Gave my bike for a oil change(Castrol Power 1 10w40) to the local mechanic. He added a supplement called MOA. Googled a bit to find how it adds any enhancement but couldn't find useful answers. Kindly throw some light on the usage of the supplement with the Engine oil. TIA

My advice is to immediately drain the oil hot and throughly , and refill with fresh oil . Never be away when fluids are added to your bike or parts are replaced .

[krish2778]

Guys , i do have a query. Please bear with me if it sounds stupid. When ever i drain the old oil. I let is drip off to the last drop which usually takes 15min. So at this point i assume there is no old oil or very little old oil (40-50ml) somewhere around the engine. But when i am filling in the new oil i can only fill some 1l and some where leser than another 100ml and tjen the inspection window shows oil has reached full mark.

Well the thing is wouldn't this mix of some odd 100ml of old oil and rest new oil reduce the life of the oil ?
And more importantly, is it ok if i crank the engine up to get the full oil out while i have removed the drain bolt and allowed the oil to drain off ? Will this assist in giving a clean oil drain...?

P.S : i did try tilting the bike to one side for more effective draining. But still considerable amount of oil remains in the engine.

Cheers
Ride safe
Krishna

[Adarsh_Bk]

Guys , i do have a query. Please bear with me if it sounds stupid. When ever i drain the old oil. I let is drip off to the last drop which usually takes 15min. So at this point i assume there is no old oil or very little old oil (40-50ml) somewhere around the engine. But when i am filling in the new oil i can only fill some 1l and some where leser than another 100ml and tjen the inspection window shows oil has reached full mark.

Well the thing is wouldn't this mix of some odd 100ml of old oil and rest new oil reduce the life of the oil ?
And more importantly, is it ok if i crank the engine up to get the full oil out while i have removed the drain bolt and allowed the oil to drain off ? Will this assist in giving a clean oil drain...?

P.S : i did try tilting the bike to one side for more effective draining. But still considerable amount of oil remains in the engine.

Cheers
Ride safe
Krishna

Please dont crank the engine when there is no oil! Just keep shaking the bike left-right to get the oil out. For me, that itself is sufficient to remove the oil almost entirely.

[Calculus]

BG Products, Inc.

Here is the link for MOA. Supplements do protect your engine, don't expect any crazy protection offered. Perhaps this can help.

Cheers!
VJ

Thanks for the information.

[ravi@17bhp]

Guys , i do have a query. Please bear with me if it sounds stupid. When ever i drain the old oil. I let is drip off to the last drop which usually takes 15min. So at this point i assume there is no old oil or very little old oil (40-50ml) somewhere around the engine. But when i am filling in the new oil i can only fill some 1l and some where leser than another 100ml and tjen the inspection window shows oil has reached full mark.

Well the thing is wouldn't this mix of some odd 100ml of old oil and rest new oil reduce the life of the oil ?
And more importantly, is it ok if i crank the engine up to get the full oil out while i have removed the drain bolt and allowed the oil to drain off ? Will this assist in giving a clean oil drain...?

P.S : i did try tilting the bike to one side for more effective draining. But still considerable amount of oil remains in the engine.

Cheers
Ride safe
Krishna

You can't drain the oil completely from engine by opening drain bolt. There are oil pockets in the engine that can't be drained. By tilting the bike both ways, you can drain a little from those pockets but not all. As you fill new oil the little left old oil gets diluted (almost), it won't cause any harm to engine.

And what do you mean by cranking? Electric start? If so, never do that. Instead you can push down the kick rod slowly to move the crank, enabling draining of the oil thats trapped.

[devils_friend]

Hi, have a query. Gave my bike for a oil change(Castrol Power 1 10w40) to the local mechanic. He added a supplement called MOA. Googled a bit to find how it adds any enhancement but couldn't find useful answers. Kindly throw some light on the usage of the supplement with the Engine oil. TIA

Bro, never add any other so called oil ehancers in the bike oil. This does not prove to be of any use. Was it a 3M product?? Infact, there might be possibility that the enhacer can have adverse effect on the engine.

All the oils that are available in the market (the genuine company oils) are made to go thru rigorous tests before they launch it in the market.

Stay away from such top up additives.

Cheerz!!

Guys , i do have a query. Please bear with me if it sounds stupid. When ever i drain the old oil. I let is drip off to the last drop which usually takes 15min. So at this point i assume there is no old oil or very little old oil (40-50ml) somewhere around the engine. But when i am filling in the new oil i can only fill some 1l and some where leser than another 100ml and tjen the inspection window shows oil has reached full mark.

Well the thing is wouldn't this mix of some odd 100ml of old oil and rest new oil reduce the life of the oil ?
And more importantly, is it ok if i crank the engine up to get the full oil out while i have removed the drain bolt and allowed the oil to drain off ? Will this assist in giving a clean oil drain...?

P.S : i did try tilting the bike to one side for more effective draining. But still considerable amount of oil remains in the engine.

Cheers
Ride safe
Krishna

Bro, as far as i know, the whole oil drains out once you the drain bolt is opened (might be wrong). Very miniscual amount of oil is left inside the engine and other areas. This will have no effect incase fresh oil gets mixed with it. The oil performance depends completely on your usage pattern.

Also, never ever crank your engine when there is no oil in it. The oil does the work of cooling the engine. There are chances that, the engine might seize up. Cranking up will not let the remaining oil in the engine drain out. DONT EVER DO IT!!

Also, all smaller capacity (100-150cc) engines have oil sump size of 900ml to 1L.

Cheerz!!

Hello All,

25 days ago, i had used ELF fully synthetic oil in my Bajaj Avenger 200, and the engine was generating a lot if heat.
Gave it for service and had the normal Bajaj 4T oil poured in. The ride's performing much more better than now, engine heat has been reduced a lot.
Well, whats the most recommended oil for a 200cc?
By Google-ing i found out, Motul is recommended, but which one?
30004T?
5100T?
300v?
Whats better, for 20W50?
mineral/SS/FS ?

How many kms has the bike done??

The bajaj 4T oil is mineral oil.

The CC of engine has nothing to do with the oil recommendation. The usage pattern is important.

Cheerz!!

[devils_friend]

Running : Around 16k
20W50 needs to be used right?
Usage pattern is daily commute of around 60kms + some touring which i would be going to do soon.

ps : its a second hand bike, bought around 45 days ago..

Ok. If i am not wrong, avenger is oil cooled bike?

Also, since it is a second hand bike, initially go for mineral oil, change to Semi Synthetic (when you change the oil next time). Then go for Fully Synthetic (if you wish to).

Cheerz!!