Engine Oils

[Raccoon]

I'm happiest when my bike feels smooth, the kind of feeling you get when a full service is performed and the oil changed. I'd like this feeling to last all the time. This is what I want most out of the bike, I'm not as concerned about longevity of the oil, power, overheating, etc. (Not that the Karizma overheats in the real sense).

Unfortunately, when about 1500km are done after an oil change, the engine smoothness begins to fall away and by about 2000km, the urge to change the oil sets in because of reduced engine smoothness. I normally change the oil at this point, if not earlier. I perform all oil changes myself, I don't trust the service center or mechanic here.

IMO the Karizma has a smooth engine, but its smoothness is no match for the Unicorn-based engine that the new HH 150cc bikes sport.

I'll also go so far to say that a Karizma is more 'sensitive' to the type of oil used, especially if it is smoothness you're after. (do other Karizma owners feel this way too?)
You cannot compare the performance of an oil in a Karizma to the same oil used in a CBZX, Hunk or Unicorn.

Both times I used Gulf semi-synth back to back, I ended up changing the oil soon after a mere 1000 km were done since the smoothness I'm used to was not apparent even immediately after the oil change. The same goes for Power1 10W30, although I'd personally rate it higher than Gulf S-S.

I've now reached the conclusion that mineral oils are best and use only HH 10W30. I'm game to try another (reputed) brand of oil, but it has got to be 10W30 mineral motorcycle oil.

If you ride a Karizma at or near the redline for a long period of time, especially in lower gears in city traffic, the engine gets pretty hot and the smoothness falls drastically until the engine cools off, even when mineral oil is used. If this is the way you ride your Karizma most of the time, perhaps semi-synth is a better choice.

Really surprising to read about your experience. For me, its Gulf all the way! Has this been observed by anybody else here?

Why dont you try Elf for a change? Its supposed to be good too.

As for Motul (mineral) and Power 1 10W30 oils, both are not extended drain products. Hence, you can't use them (technically) for 5,000 - 6,000 km as you can with Gulf, Elf and HH oil. So they turn out to be expensive too. Besides that, Castrol would be the last option I would consider anyway.

[ravi@17bhp]

Nirvan, agree with you fully. As of now, I have used almost all the engine oils in the market (except gulf 10w30), including fully synthetic to semi-syntheitc, and my conclusion was that mineral oil is the best, and I have been telling the same to the new Karizma users and they have been happy with that. After recollecting my experience with different oils, you are right that may be karizma is sensitive to oil change. Right now using Petronas Sprinta Fully Synthetic. As usual, my gear shifts are a bit harder and the engine growls in lower gears.

I have used Elf Motogold back to back and felt it to be good but not as good as the HH oil.

[anvancy]

what are my options for x w 50 ratings??mineral excluded!

anvancy

[ravi@17bhp]

what are my options for x w 50 ratings??mineral excluded!

anvancy

Valvoline Premium W50
Motul 5100 Technosynthese W50.
Motul 300v Factoryline Fully synthetic w50.

[anvancy]

Valvoline Premium W50
Motul 5100 Technosynthese W50.
Motul 300v Factoryline Fully synthetic w50.

factory line has problems with pulsars right??(i have the ug3.)

[ravi@17bhp]

factory line has problems with pulsars right??(i have the ug3.)

Yes! You are right. Valvoline Premium is a good option.

[insanebiker]

factory line has problems with pulsars right??(i have the ug3.)

Not exactly. There are few cases of head leaks but those necessarily not be due to the oil.

Go ahead and use it, u wont repent it.

[anvancy]

Not exactly. There are few cases of head leaks but those necessarily not be due to the oil.

Go ahead and use it, u wont repent it.

i actually use competition which is single ester.bad that they stopped production of this.

when i put factory line,the gasket problem came up and i had to change it.

the thing that i know personally of using motul for the past roughly 10k kms is that the moment i shift away from motul i am gonna suffer the smoothness.

smoothness is what motul is ever famous for.

i just wanted to check whether people are still facing problems with factory line and pulsars.cause majority of probiking centers are now motul equipped.

anvancy

[Praful]

^^OMG, you are still running Competition. Did you raid the whole Motul godown a few year back or you don;t ride as much?

[anvancy]

^^OMG, you are still running Competition. Did you raid the whole Motul godown a few year back or you don;t ride as much?

i found competition perfect for the bike.the moment i put factory line,the bike behavior changed.ofcourse i had to change the gasket.

[Praful]

i found competition perfect for the bike.the moment i put factory line,the bike behavior changed.ofcourse i had to change the gasket.

No No, I meant how do you still have access to Competition? Did to stock up for a few years?

[anvancy]

No No, I meant how do you still have access to Competition? Did to stock up for a few years?

i found one,who had a bottle left.grabbed it immediately.

now unfortunately i dont have any access to competition.

[Sarvajit]

Synthetic oil for RE TBTS

Can anyone suggest a good fully synthetic oil for the Thunderbird Twin Spark?
The recommended oil grade is 15w50, so Motul 300V&CPR1 fit in.
However, if Petronas or some other most cost effective option is available, it would be better, as the Bull takes in almost 3 litres.

[insanebiker]

Can anyone suggest a good fully synthetic oil for the Thunderbird Twin Spark?
The recommended oil grade is 15w50, so Motul 300V&CPR1 fit in.
However, if Petronas or some other most cost effective option is available, it would be better, as the Bull takes in almost 3 litres.

CPR1 doesnt fit in as it is not a 15W50.

[Sarvajit]

CPR1 doesnt fit in as it is not a 15W50.

Castrol Power 1 Racing not 15w50?