Engine Oils

[nand15]

What bike did you use this oil in ? How come you using 5w40 oil on it .. is it the manufacturer recommended grade for your bike at your ambient temperatures ? Are you track racing the bike ?
5w40 is thin oil preferred type by track-racers nowadays for quick revving their engines at the cost of wear . They don't mind as they rebuild their engines at the end of every race anyway . Being a thin oil it is normal for some of it to slip past the rings and vanish . Your use of this thin grade in our climates for normal road riding have caused accelerated wear . So naturally it's vanishing faster now and also getting dirty earlier owing to increased blow-by past the rings .

the bike is a yamaha FZ16 ... ,The fact is the 5w40 FS lasted me more ( about 4.5k kms ) than the 20w50 which has now hit minimum at just about 2K kms ... . So will this be the trend ? Because of the use of 5w40 ?

But my dilemma is , Last time the oil hit minimum level on dipstick I changed it , but the oil filled up the bottle to the level with which the new oil came to . Now again it has reached minimum , and so Do i have to change the oil or can I run on the same oil ?

[Honda_CBF]

^^ are you saying that 20w50 grade oil vanished??
i agree with pinaki, but there are also other members who are using this oil & having no problem. So, I'm pretty much clue less what's happening
in my opinion you should change your oil.

[sandeepcf]

the bike is a yamaha FZ16 ...

My friend's bike is Fazer and clocked 18000kms. Used Motul 300v15w50 for 4k kms and now he is using ELF 10w50 fully synth. This time the Oil turned BLACK..after 600kms only. Normally the oil gets dark, darker, darkest but not BLACK. He is experiencing decreased mileage and less power in the engine.
I think oil should not get BLACK(combustion particles entering the oil), may be the piston rings are gone.
Will update if my friend finds a solution.

[Pinaki]

the bike is a yamaha FZ16 ... ,The fact is the 5w40 FS lasted me more ( about 4.5k kms ) than the 20w50 which has now hit minimum at just about 2K kms ... . So will this be the trend ? Because of the use of 5w40 ?
But my dilemma is , Last time the oil hit minimum level on dipstick I changed it , but the oil filled up the bottle to the level with which the new oil came to . Now again it has reached minimum , and so Do i have to change the oil or can I run on the same oil ?

The question that came to my mind originally was how you arrived to this 5w40 grade oil for your bike . Anyway what's done is done , hopefully no permanent damage has been caused other than some fast wear . If you shift to a heavier oil like 20w40 mineral / 15w50 synthetic now the effects of this wear shall be compensated for somewhat for sometime . The things you are concerned about -- i.e volumes of oil filled vs drained etc are not accurate scientific measurements indicative of anything this way or that , and are anecdotal at best . Measure oil level by owner's manual recommended procedure with the dip-stick only . Please stop worrying about it . First thing is read your owners manual about oils recommended for your bike under various conditions . Among all manufacturers in India , Yamaha is the least likely to make misleading or marketing-motivated recommendations about their bikes . They do not make or ask you to use one specific oil only , but stock a whole range of oils in yamalube from pure mineral to advanced full synthetic , in all the useful grades , each custom made for them by no less than Motul . They have not gone for the lowest bidder here . It is not a trivial logistical feat to undertake in vast India . Yamaha is not careless about their oils . I still operate two low capacity yamaha bikes and they love yamalubes , no problems I had with Motul or Gulf on them too , either .... in yamaha recommended grades .

My friend's bike is Fazer and clocked 18000kms. Used Motul 300v15w50 for 4k kms and now he is using ELF 10w50 fully synth. This time the Oil turned BLACK..after 600kms only. Normally the oil gets dark, darker, darkest but not BLACK. He is experiencing decreased mileage and less power in the engine.
I think oil should not get BLACK(combustion particles entering the oil), may be the piston rings are gone.
Will update if my friend finds a solution.

Again , at the cost of being repetitive .. I shall say because it is too thin ( 10weight ) to seal the piston rings correctly so that the increased blow-by that the oil got dirty early . In all probability he's been hard riding it in the heat of this summer too . Also in all probability since the oil is synthetic ( with the least friction ) no permanent damage to engine ... just ask him to shift to correct grade for the bike as per owners manual and all will be well . My best wishes for all .

[sandeepcf]

Again , at the cost of being repetitive .. I shall say because it is too thin ( 10weight ) to seal the piston rings correctly so that the increased blow-by that the oil got dirty early.

Pinaki sir why Toyota uses 5w30 grade oil for their Innova(made by savitha chemicals India), while other diesel engine cars use 15w40 grade and yet Toyota Innova is the longest running vehicle(upto 5lakh kms).
And if you observe Innova's oil it doesn't get BLACK but dark as opposed to other diesel cars oil which turns BLACK with in 50kms. So 5w30 oil also seals the piston rings right.

If a thin oil can find a way past the piston rings, can't the gases escape into the crankcase?

[Pinaki]

I have replied this many times in details Sandeep'jee .
Toyota makes that engine in the exact specific way necessary to use that oil type . They also run-in the engine at factory .. before final assembly . etc etc . Despite that Toyota does not recommend that you keep on that 5w30 oil in all conditions , like say driving in the desert for months or rallying . Check the innova owner's manual .
Diesel engines use the oil to clean and contain the extra carbon & acids (dirt generally) that it produces in operation . So those oils have much much more detergency & neutralizers than our bike oils , it is usual for them to get black quickly .. it means it's working well . If that savita oil isn't getting dirty much even after a long while , it may mean it's lacking in these desirable properties of a good diesel oil . Moreover diesel ( or any car ) engine doesn't run their oil thru the transmission (gears) like bikes do ,so bikes are much much more harder on the oil than cars . Compare the drain interval of a bike and car using same grade & type oil . Cars don't depend on the oil for cooling ... it has very detailed and efficient cooling systems seperately , they can get away with thinner oils ... our bikes are air-cooled & the mechanism depends solely on the oil to carry the heat to air interface . Thicker oil is denser and conducts heat away better .
What I mean to say is that you just can't go about switching the oil grade in your bike just because you liked the colour of a particular product pack or because Toyota did so in one of their recent model car (and it runs very well on it) .
Fat chance they fitted your bike or the FZ16 with Toyota's engine by really bad mistake even .

....If a thin oil can find a way past the piston rings, can't the gases escape into the crankcase?

It does . The petrol vapour may escape thru the crankcase breather or worse condense and mix with the engine oil thereby diluting it . I have drained such oil from bikes , it smells heavily of petrol then . It can strip the cylinder & bearings of oil ; reducing lubrication .Not a good thing to happen .

[pioneeraron]

Pinaki is absolutely right.Modern day gasoline and diesel engines require 5w40 for a better revving engine and best efficiency.If the grade thickens only noticeable change wud be the pickup and efficiency and lil bit heat management inside the engine.

[sandeepcf]

Pinaki is absolutely right.Modern day gasoline and diesel engines require 5w40 for a better revving engine and best efficiency.If the grade thickens only noticeable change wud be the pickup and efficiency and lil bit heat management inside the engine.

You got it wrong. Pinaki is against 5w40's 10w40's quoting them as too thin and thin oils can't provide lubrication. But that so called thin viscosity is measured at 0 degrees and as the temperature increases the viscosity increases and meets the required ratings.

Today got shell synthetic 10w40 from distributor and got discount of "Rs.205"
MRP is 755 bought it for 550. Retail price at another shop is Rs.700. Attain dealership for these oils and open 2 or more retail outlets would make a great business I think.

[Pinaki]

You got it wrong. Pinaki is against 5w40's 10w40's quoting them as too thin and thin oils can't provide lubrication. But that so called thin viscosity is measured at 0 degrees and as the temperature increases the viscosity increases and meets the required ratings....

All oils becomes thinner ( less viscous in common language ) as it is heated . Same with multi-grade oils . Contrary to popular belief , a 10w40 oil does not become a 40wt oil at 100C . It becomes even thinner than the same 10wt oil at 0C .
But don't get me wrong - thin oils like 0/5/10 weight can provide plenty of lubrication , depending on the conditions you utilize them in , like temperature etc . Same as thin clothes provide the perfect warmth needed in the tropics but I wouldn't wear them in Kashmir in winter , ryt ?
I am not for or against any oil , they are not political ideologies or cricket teams even .

[Sp!tfire]

bro its name has been changed to shell advance ax7 so dont get confused.
after using this oil my bike is so smooth and gear shift is too good however gear was smoother when i was on gulf pride 4t plus. vibration gone to some extent and bike now revs more freely and engine runs cooler.
this oil lasted for 1100kms as 850kms was spent on touring @ 100kmph+ most of the time however im expecting 2.5k to 3k kms on it.
go for it.

Thanks for the info mate. What is quantity of oil that is to be filled? According to the manual, it is 1.35 litres right ?

[Mzee_Maverik]

Thanks for the info mate. What is quantity of oil that is to be filled? According to the manual, it is 1.35 litres right ?

1.35l is required when crank case is opened otherwise 1.1l for changing the oil.
as in my case i purchased 2 bottles of 1l each. i emptied one full bottle and 100ml from other, so now have to buy a single 1l bottle and use 100ml again from my previous bottle.

[nagthemissile]

reviews of castrol 20w40

Guyz,please let me know till how many kms the engine will be smooth on castrol oil 20w40..........i am using the svc castrol on my gs.....but after 700 km the engine is harsher and rough..........

Also if possible compare the same with other 20w40mineral oils like motul ,gulf,elf etc

[nand15]

The question that came to my mind originally was how you arrived to this 5w40 grade oil for your bike . Anyway what's done is done , hopefully no permanent damage has been caused other than some fast wear . If you shift to a heavier oil like 20w40 mineral / 15w50 synthetic now the effects of this wear shall be compensated for somewhat for sometime . The things you are concerned about -- i.e volumes of oil filled vs drained etc are not accurate scientific measurements indicative of anything this way or that , and are anecdotal at best . Measure oil level by owner's manual recommended procedure with the dip-stick only . Please stop worrying about it . First thing is read your owners manual about oils recommended for your bike under various conditions . Among all manufacturers in India , Yamaha is the least likely to make misleading or marketing-motivated recommendations about their bikes . They do not make or ask you to use one specific oil only , but stock a whole range of oils in yamalube from pure mineral to advanced full synthetic , in all the useful grades , each custom made for them by no less than Motul . They have not gone for the lowest bidder here . It is not a trivial logistical feat to undertake in vast India . Yamaha is not careless about their oils . I still operate two low capacity yamaha bikes and they love yamalubes , no problems I had with Motul or Gulf on them too , either .... in yamaha recommended grades .

Funnily enough the 5w40 was recommended by the Yamaha guys , On asking them about the recommended grade being 20w40 , they said not to worry and it would not cause any harm ... I believed in that and also the bike is showing absolutely NO problems with acceleration , speed or no roughness whatsoever up until now , **touchwood**...

Yes you are absolutely right about the concerns , which I do admit are no scientific measure but it's just what I found . I do measure the level using the dipstick only , I really do not know any other method to do so ...

[Murali220F]

Pulsar 220f engine heating

Hi guys,

I've done wit my 3rd free service,the problem i'm facing now is the engine is getting over heated & the noice coming out from the engine is very crapy.
since i was using the Bajaj DTSi oil..but now i've shifted to Motul 5100 Semi Synthetic Oil...The bajaj service mechanic is telling the oil is not suitable for ur bike. so please continue wit the bajaj oil...so plz tell me wat to do..

Regards

[Noor]

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