Engine Oils

[Pinaki]

Hello thank you for the advice bro I was not worried about the levels i make sure its in the centre of the indicator.I was only wanting to know the right amount of oil .In the manual on one page it says 1litre and on the other page it says 900..I always have had problems with the extra ml because they use another brand of oil to add 100 0r 200 ml oil and i think it messes up with the original oil that i use..or does it not matter?

As far as I can recall pulsars take 1.1 lit of oil (not sure though) . Bajaj usually embosses the sump volume on the crankcase cover .. check it . Yes , the correct method is to fill to the "max" mark on the dipstick . No problem in topping up with another oil of any grade or brand or type as long as it is fresh motorcycle oil .

[muztariq]

As far as I can recall pulsars take 1.1 lit of oil (not sure though) . Bajaj usually embosses the sump volume on the crankcase cover .. check it . Yes , the correct method is to fill to the "max" mark on the dipstick . No problem in topping up with another oil of any grade or brand or type as long as it is fresh motorcycle oil .

mixing oils is ok? Not to my knowledge.
1. Mixing w40 and w50 whether 200 ml only will not be suitable for recommendation of w40. If you buy 900ml of a grade and top up 200 ml for 1.1litre content you are in a soup.
2. Different brands use different additive package.. Some additives are incompatible hence it is always recommemded to mix oil of same manufacturer.. This happens mainly with antioxidants.. Using different antioxidants will interact with each other.. More powerful will win, if thats in 200ml of the content.. Your whole oil will be losing its antioxidant property.
If we can take this lightly, then engine oil thread should be closed.. Use any oil in any bike.. Ppl have been doing that for years, whats the use of the thread?

An eg.

onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/ls.3010130304/abstract?systemMessage=Wiley+Online+Library+will+b e+disrupted+24+March+from+10-14+GMT+%2806-10+EDT%29+for+essential+maintenance

[deville_56]

mixing oils is ok? Not to my knowledge.
1. Mixing w40 and w50 whether 200 ml only will not be suitable for recommendation of w40. If you buy 900ml of a grade and top up 200 ml for 1.1litre content you are in a soup.
2. Different brands use different additive package.. Some additives are incompatible hence it is always recommemded to mix oil of same manufacturer.. This happens mainly with antioxidants.. Using different antioxidants will interact with each other.. More powerful will win, if thats in 200ml of the content.. Your whole oil will be losing its antioxidant property.
If we can take this lightly, then engine oil thread should be closed.. Use any oil in any bike.. Ppl have been doing that for years, whats the use of the thread?

Chill dude. Theories don't workout everytime in reality.

Even in case of FZ, you replace 1L every time, it will mix with residue of 200mL old oil whether it is Xw40 or Xw50 (of the total 1.2L total capacity). (Even with filter replacement only 1L is required, confirmed with workshop manual).

[muztariq]

Chill dude. Theories don't workout everytime in reality.

Even in case of FZ, you replace 1L every time, it will mix with residue of 200mL old oil whether it is Xw40 or Xw50 (of the total 1.2L total capacity). (Even with filter replacement only 1L is required, confirmed with workshop manual).

yamaha recommends w40 or w50.. So no problem as such. But consider 10w30 1l and top up with 20w50. The resultant is not w30 for sure.. And if additives are incompatible, things are worse.

[Wrathchild]

#MuztariQ

Yes I felt the same thing about it ..even 100ml of different oil messes it up.But i did get the same 20w40 oil top up.And can I also use 15w 40 or 10w40?I have tried shell its excellent compared to castrol.

[muztariq]

Yes I felt the same thing about it ..even 100ml of different oil messes it up.But i did get the same 20w40 oil top up.And can I also use 15w 40 or 10w40?I have tried shell its excellent compared to castrol.

you can use 10w40 or 15w40 in place of 20w40 anytime.. Actually you wont find a 20w40 fs at all here.. If you find one, please tell me too. :-)

[Wrathchild]

you can use 10w40 or 15w40 in place of 20w40 anytime.. Actually you wont find a 20w40 fs at all here.. If you find one, please tell me too. :-)

I have used shell three times now 20w40 its mineral oil not FS or SS and I had used castrol power 1 twice in the past but it was of no use.So 10w40 and 15w 40 like shell advance is Fs?

[Pinaki]

Topping up with 100ml-200ml of a different grade will make the oil volume in the sump vary negligibly from it's original grade . Multigrade oil changes in grade far more significantly in use owing to normal degradation . If faced with a situation where correct grade/type of oil is not available and the oil level is low in the sump , always top up with whatever is available closest to whatever is in your sump . It shall certainly not go "out of spec" or cause any problem , whereas running with low oil will harm (or seize) your engine with certainty .
There is no known incompatibility between engine oils of different grade/brand/type(minerals or synthetic) . As deville_56 said , some mixing of engine oils is inevitable because some oil is always retained by the sump when it is drained . Manufacturers are aware of this . If they launch a new oil that is incompatible with all others and shall cause harm if mixed with the oil previously in the sump , they stand to compensate the buyer and permanently gain ill repute in the market . They can not ensure or demand that all bike or car owner(or truck drivers) shall have to flush his engine internals sparkling clean before pouring in their new oil .
Only thing to try avoid is petrol car oils of 10w grade and below(which usually contains anti-friction and high-mileage additives) , in volumes more than 100ml-200ml or so (too much of it can cause some clutch slip) . Even then, if faced with a situation where the choice is between such an car-oil and riding with low oil ... top up by all means . It will save your engine from seize during the trip . When back home or as soon as circumstances provide , drain the whole oil and refill with clean fresh motorcycle oil .
I have used 20w50 Motul CNG(bajaj RE) engine oil(from a friend who is auto-rickshaw driver) to top up many times when running low without any changes I noticed ever . Ran the oil to it's full life too , every-time without bother .

.. Some additives are incompatible ... This happens mainly with antioxidants.. Using different antioxidants will interact with each other.. More powerful will win, ...

Where did you get this crap ?

Yes I felt the same thing about it ..even 100ml of different oil messes it up.But i did get the same 20w40 oil top up..

What happened ? You experienced any engine trouble after topping up ? or felt any real difference ? Or you are just feeling uneasy in the mind from worrying about that 100ml ? If you have used fresh same grade (20w40) motorcycle oil (whatever brand) for the top up you can absolutely stop worrying about it and run the oil full mileage . Conversely, if you are losing sleep over it , buy your mechanic two cans every time and donate the surplus .

[deville_56]

yamaha recommends w40 or w50.. So no problem as such. But consider 10w30 1l and top up with 20w50. The resultant is not w30 for sure.. And if additives are incompatible, things are worse.

Whatever recommended 40 or 50, mixing is mixing

Topping up 900mL of w40 with 100 mL w50 won't make the resultant one w40 either. FS/SS will be topped up at SVC (be it Yammy or other manufacturer) with normal mineral only (different grade and/or even different additives). Even that doesn't make the resultant FS or SS

Tip: All the Google infos won't work out in the practical world

[Wrathchild]

Topping up with 100ml-200ml of a different grade will make the oil volume in the sump vary negligibly from it's original grade . Multigrade oil changes in grade far more significantly in use owing to normal degradation . If faced with a situation where correct grade/type of oil is not available and the oil level is low in the sump , always top up with whatever is available closest to whatever is in your sump . It shall certainly not go "out of spec" or cause any problem , whereas running with low oil will harm (or seize) your engine with certainty .
There is no known incompatibility between engine oils of different grade/brand/type(minerals or synthetic) . As deville_56 said , some mixing of engine oils is inevitable because some oil is always retained by the sump when it is drained . Manufacturers are aware of this . If they launch a new oil that is incompatible with all others and shall cause harm if mixed with the oil previously in the sump , they stand to compensate the buyer and permanently gain ill repute in the market . They can not ensure or demand that all bike or car owner(or truck drivers) shall have to flush his engine internals sparkling clean before pouring in their new oil .
Only thing to try avoid is petrol car oils of 10w grade and below(which usually contains anti-friction and high-mileage additives) , in volumes more than 100ml-200ml or so (too much of it can cause some clutch slip) . Even then, if faced with a situation where the choice is between such an car-oil and riding with low oil ... top up by all means . It will save your engine from seize during the trip . When back home or as soon as circumstances provide , drain the whole oil and refill with clean fresh motorcycle oil .
I have used 20w50 Motul CNG(bajaj RE) engine oil(from a friend who is auto-rickshaw driver) to top up many times when running low without any changes I noticed ever . Ran the oil to it's full life too , every-time without bother .
Where did you get this crap ?
What happened ? You experienced any engine trouble after topping up ? or felt any real difference ? Or you are just feeling uneasy in the mind from worrying about that 100ml ? If you have used fresh same grade (20w40) motorcycle oil (whatever brand) for the top up you can absolutely stop worrying about it and run the oil full mileage . Conversely, if you are losing sleep over it , buy your mechanic two cans every time and donate the surplus .

Hello thanks for the suggestions.No did not mean any engine troubles its really smooth the shifting is a bit of a worry and sometimes false neutrals{but it is a know thing with pulsars}and no i am not losing sleep over it and i am not gonna buy 2 cans the next time and donate it to the mechies lol..i am gonna buy only 1 litre and use litre..i am not gonna add 1100..Guys thank you all for your valuable suggestions they sure do help.
I appreciate it .

[chiragwarm]

I replaced my engine oil today & forgot to replace Engine Oil Filter. Its been 8000 KMS & I haven't replaced the filter even once. Is it possible to replace filter after a refill ? I mean the the new oil filter needs some engine oil I guess ?? ?
Bike- Suzuki GS150R

[ashishschdv1]

Hi,

I just wanted to know about any good engine oil 20w50 near PitamPura, delhi for Pulsar 180 ug 4.0

[muztariq]

I replaced my engine oil today & forgot to replace Engine Oil Filter. Its been 8000 KMS & I haven't replaced the filter even once. Is it possible to replace filter after a refill ? I mean the the new oil filter needs some engine oil I guess ?? ?
Bike- Suzuki GS150R

engine oil filter is mandatorily changed on first service of my yamaha. Please check your bills, may be it has been changed. Also check the oil filter change interval as per manual. If its changed at 1st service, you may have sometime left.
Its not possible now to change the filter and get same benefits as changing during oil change. You can try - Drain the oil, change the filter, refill the oil, check the levels, topup if required. Disect the filter and see how much contaminated it was :-)
Paper filters as in yamaha may accomodate around 50 ml of oil. For an fz, engine oil quantity without filter change is 1l but with filter change is 1.2l as per manual.

[muztariq]

Whatever recommended 40 or 50, mixing is mixing

Topping up 900mL of w40 with 100 mL w50 won't make the resultant one w40 either. FS/SS will be topped up at SVC (be it Yammy or other manufacturer) with normal mineral only (different grade and/or even different additives). Even that doesn't make the resultant FS or SS

Tip: All the Google infos won't work out in the practical world

its a strange world out here, where 15w40 is not recommended in place of 20w40 as 20w40 is written in the manual and top up(100 to 200 ml) with any grade any brand is claimed safe.
In practicality using any grade oil(even deisel cars and cng autos) in any bike is what we have been doing for years, where its the inventory available with the mechanic decides what oil is going in the bike. 10w30 spec of HH is widely violated by using 20w40 or even 20w50 oils. Practically nothing happens to the engine.
Tip- googling improves knowledge, use it more often. I found this thread from google only!! And you are asking me to go back to the practicle world again - my mechanic is waiting with his inventory :-)

[Pinaki]

Muztariq'jee , when I first used that Motul cng power-plus 20w50 oil, I was in a fix, my old yamaha crux had lost much oil en-route to an important work because I had forgotten to screw in the engine oil dipstick (it also ruined my pant) . So when my friend (auto rickshaw owner who plies that route) offered to help with half a bottle, I took it . Not much choice , the work that day could not be missed, and I would never run on low oil .
Later when I came to examine it , the oil is not JASO or API rated but Bajaj approved for it's RE CNG/LPG 3-wheelers . Motul also has claimed long drain period of 10000kms and it is 20w50 grade . Bajaj's RE has air-cooled 175cc 4-stroke engines with wet multidisc clutch same as motorcycles . It is also an bi-fuel engine designed to run on both CNG and petrol(delhi) , or LPG and petrol(kolkata) .The auto's have a 3-liter auxiliary petrol tank and ability to switch to "limpback mode" , where it runs on petrol if it runs out of the compressed gas fuel . So the oil cannot be unsuitable for wet-clutch petrol engine use, else bajaj or motul would not have vouched for it .So it is my belief now that this oil may be quite suitable for motorcycle use by itself too, where the bike is spec'd for a 20w50 grade .
I have used two partial bottles of it (free - from same source) for top ups etc . 10-20% 20w50 oil in about a liter of 20w40 wouldn't drastically affect the overall consistency of the whole volume anyway, both being same 20 weight base oil .