Thread: Hero Honda CBZ Classic

Originally Posted by sibun

From your description the rings are loosing compression as the bike was lying idle for long. So the rings are sticking and making them loose compression. While the oil is dropped in the combustion chamber the rings seals again and then once again after some time loose compression. Let your mechanic adjust tappets but i think it will not make your problem correct.
And please do not open the complete engine as a factory fitted engine is best. Simply from the top open the head and bore and inspect the bore if it is worn or out of round. I bet it will be not. Then clean the piston and bring a set of new rings. Lightly hone the bore. The honing should be such that no material is removed and only the crisscross mark are made on the liner.This will serve as run-in for new rings. Polish the valves. If the bore is worn simply change to new bore kit. If the timing chain is worn change it and if clutch plate is worn then change it as compression will increase and cause greater slippage.
And do not open the engine as i bet your con-rod will be like new and will last another 1 lacs km without opening.Just do the top end job like i mentioned and the engine will feel like new. It will take a maximum of two hours. This one i am saying from my experience as most of my friends who have been advised to open engine by SVC at low kilometers have come to me for help and my mechanic does the same.
And take the following care-
If the bore,piston and valves are not worn out then please do not change it as they are original japan parts and now you get Indian parts. They do not have the same quality. Trust me they will not wear out at 38k and i have seen cbz run 1.5 lacs before requiring overhaul.


@all- i am really jealous of you. Although i own a joy and cbz extreme i am on the look out for the old cbz. Although i will not sell my extreme as it is only 7 months old but i will keep the cbz with my present two bikes. I love hero honda bikes and like to keep the best from their stables in my garage. My friend has one in best condition and i have tried to entice him to sell it but he doesn't sells it.I have come across many used one but they are in such condition that they are not fit to give cbz name.
My first dream was a blue cbz but back then i was a child and thus my dream remained a dream. Now i am on the look out and one day i will sure acquire one.

Hey Sibun

Thanks for the quick reply.I shall make sure he just does the above.I tried today I was able to touch 105km/h with easy. Iv also noticed if the engine is cold it just cuts off in a few secs if i leave the accelarator But if its warm(I takes a while to warm up in this weather). It fires properly.Also If I continue to use the bike in its current condition can i cause more damage ?

Originally Posted by CBZ

My pleasure, friend! I can never see a Classic bite the dust, ever!

Different brake pad and assembly from Xtreme and Classic might have caused the problem. I feel it did not fit in comfortably, or forced to fit in by the previous owner and other mechanics you have consulted.

Anyways, please check at Wakdewadi and let me know!

Guys, continuation of above post. I am today going to change my disc plate to that of original old CBZ, as I am now running on a Unicorn or an Extreme plate for last 1.5 years and it has been giving troubles (mentioned in my earlier posts). I did a test with an old CBZ disc plate + the existing pad assembly yesterday and there was no squeaking or any other sounds. So, I decided. Shell out some more and get a new disc plate. HH service center says original disc plate comes for INR 1,050/-. Is it correct? As far as I've dealt with this HH Service center in Vishrantwadi (Pune), he's been honest and his mechanics are proper and have good knowledge of what they do. So, I am giving it a shot. I am planning to go for a trip to Lonavla this Sunday with the new disc and check its efficiency. What I noticed yesterday when I tested old CBZ disc plate was, the braking power is very low, even lower than a worn out drum. May be because the pad got used to the existing disc and didn't get accustomed to the new one. I hope the problem will be solved after some rides. So, I'm just keeping my fingers crossed the problem gets solved.

Originally Posted by metalghost

Guys, ..... I am planning to go for a trip to Lonavla this Sunday with the new disc and check its efficiency. What I noticed yesterday when I tested old CBZ disc plate was, the braking power is very low, even lower than a worn out drum. May be because the pad got used to the existing disc and didn't get accustomed to the new one. I hope the problem will be solved after some rides. So, I'm just keeping my fingers crossed the problem gets solved.

I suggest you get the brake fluid changed to DOT4 first. Also check for any air in the hose (you will need to bleed the brake fluid for that - follow the apache detailed instructions given on XBHP)
Another issue (as happened with me) could be that the spring/seal underneath the top brake fluid container has gone bad, leading to low braking efficiency. Have your mechanic look into that as well.

Originally Posted by AK3D

I suggest you get the brake fluid changed to DOT4 first. Also check for any air in the hose (you will need to bleed the brake fluid for that - follow the apache detailed instructions given on XBHP)
Another issue (as happened with me) could be that the spring/seal underneath the top brake fluid container has gone bad, leading to low braking efficiency. Have your mechanic look into that as well.

Thanks for the reply, buddy.. But I already got the disc plate changed, I didn't get the original old CBZ disc plate though. It is now running on an Achiever disc plate. I hope it doesn't make any problems anymore as it is running smooth as of now, even though it is not even an hour since I changed it. The mechs refilled the brake fluid as well, but I didn't notice whether it was DOT4 or not. Anyway, my problem was not low braking efficiency, it was strange sound coming out of the pad assembly, only while a particular portion on the diameter of the disc goes into it. Precisely, sound is produced only when this portion goes into the pad assembly, creating periodical sound - not the normal squeaking sound. The sound was something like a bolt or a screw or some metal getting rubbed against another one. More or less like "krrr...kr...krrrrr...", periodically as the disc spins. I repeat, it was not the normal squeaking which can be solved by adjusting the pad distance from disc plate. I consulted 3 mechs before, but none could solve it. So, I finally decided to go for new disc plate and it happened today. Anyway, braking efficiency is very low now, but I suppose it is because of the new disc plate. It should get accustomed to the pads and regular braking pressure. I'll post updates on how the new disc is functioning.

Originally Posted by joshdsy

Hey Sibun

Iv also noticed if the engine is cold it just cuts off in a few secs if i leave the accelarator But if its warm(I takes a while to warm up in this weather). It fires properly.Also If I continue to use the bike in its current condition can i cause more damage ?

There could be various reasons for cold start:

a. high viscosity engine oil - try using 10W30 from HH SVC or other brand like Motul 10W40 SS / 20W40 Mineral etc.
b. air filter is clogged.
c. air/fuel mixture is not tuned properly
d. spark plug either requires cleaning or changing (maybe an Iridium plug)
e. try changing the ignition cable to something like split fire cables (do not have any experience with these just heard about them)

Originally Posted by AK3D

Recent update :
My mechanic put in Karizma OEM clutch plates and harder springs. The bike feels entirely new in its acceleration. I have not tested the top end on the highway yet.
I also had him use Motul 3000v 20W40 oil, the engine feels much smoother overall.
There was oil leakage from the engine sides, so he has bought the head gaskets/seals. Hopefully that problem should be solved once they're inserted.
My only current issue is that the brakes are spongy, but we plan to put in new DOT4 fluid and check for air in the brake hose this weekend, so all should be good with the bike.

You can overhaul your disc brake calipers by changing piston seals rubber parts and check for worn brake shoe,,,,just clean up whole caliper set and bleed out oil and check for air bubbles in it bleed out air and fill in new dot 4 brake fluid,,,your brake issue will get solved mate.

Originally Posted by metalghost

Thanks for the reply, buddy.. But I already got the disc plate changed, I didn't get the original old CBZ disc plate though. It is now running on an Achiever disc plate. I hope it doesn't make any problems anymore as it is running smooth as of now, even though it is not even an hour since I changed it. The mechs refilled the brake fluid as well, but I didn't notice whether it was DOT4 or not. Anyway, my problem was not low braking efficiency, it was strange sound coming out of the pad assembly, only while a particular portion on the diameter of the disc goes into it. Precisely, sound is produced only when this portion goes into the pad assembly, creating periodical sound - not the normal squeaking sound. The sound was something like a bolt or a screw or some metal getting rubbed against another one. More or less like "krrr...kr...krrrrr...", periodically as the disc spins. I repeat, it was not the normal squeaking which can be solved by adjusting the pad distance from disc plate. I consulted 3 mechs before, but none could solve it. So, I finally decided to go for new disc plate and it happened today. Anyway, braking efficiency is very low now, but I suppose it is because of the new disc plate. It should get accustomed to the pads and regular braking pressure. I'll post updates on how the new disc is functioning.

Bro that sound is not issue with disc plate but is because of the worn out rubber bushes that holds the caliper to the stem,,,try changing old bushes and see the piston washers and seals for worn out,,,,overhaul it by changing bushes and washers,,,and check dot 3 or dot 4 brake fluid and air in oil hose...

Originally Posted by AK3D

Recent update :
My mechanic put in Karizma OEM clutch plates and harder springs. The bike feels entirely new in its acceleration. I have not tested the top end on the highway yet.
I also had him use Motul 3000v 20W40 oil, the engine feels much smoother overall.
There was oil leakage from the engine sides, so he has bought the head gaskets/seals. Hopefully that problem should be solved once they're inserted.
My only current issue is that the brakes are spongy, but we plan to put in new DOT4 fluid and check for air in the brake hose this weekend, so all should be good with the bike.

How much is cost for karizma clutch plate and hard springs,,,how is the feel and mileage now,,,I am not getting oem clutch plate part for my cbz so can i use karizma plates,,,?

Originally Posted by maxx

Log Continues:
1st Servicing all done. Kick Started my bike, High Idling speed is what I found. Took it to other service station and got it fixed. Rides like a brand new Bike. I think there is no problem left in engine now. 60Kmph@4.5, Rides so much easily up till 9000. I think it has just hit the sweet spot. Using ZMA clutch plates. Pickup is exceptional. Before the servicing the power used to come at 3.5, but pickup roll in quite early. 2nd and 3rd gear roll is equally good. Thanks to the ZMA high lift cam. More than happy with the setup I have got. The bike looks old, next up changes in cosmetic segment. Please hold. Apart from that an important thing, although she looks like a 12 year old but she has so many horses that she would keep even the newer ones to shame. In short performance wise, she can give most modern bikes a run for their money. Not quite sure if she would really beat them to the line. Remember the saying old is gold. People usually comment she has high vibes one which is specially seen in Enfield's line up. Vibes give an idea of how much power she holds under her...That's always a good feeling you get when you ride any cbz, and the thumps...I am in love with those thumps...Modern bikes no vibes no thumbs, nothing really distinguishes from other in look and feel department. You ride a CB Dazzler or you ride the CBZ extreme. They are so much refined these days that they sound almost similar. Will post when I get the cosmetic changes done to her.

Welcome back buddy.
And very well said!
+1 on that!

Just wanted to know are those parts really available with joel ? because i enquired from him 2 months back and he said he has got nothing for CBZ classic other than Free flow exhaust tuned by himself. Well if thats available i am ready to place an order atleast for big - bore kit + free flow exhaust.

More or less Karizma's high lift camshaft is like a steroid for CBZ it goes insane after that. i've been using from quite a long time now. More or less last whole year i was not able to take care of her and it seems that my Priya (my cbz) also needs a visit to her Doctor. clutch plates have gone Kaput, front forks needs oiling , needs a thorough check moreover. i'll look forward to install Karizma's clutch plates and springs as it is already tested by you.. Cosmetically i just love her the way she is right now. would not be changing anything. Did you try reducing over weight from bike like leg guard, Saree guard etc etc. Trust me it works.

Do share your inputs on sprocketting as well. like we use to discuss just like old-times.
FYI Karizma's chain set tested! it makes her extremely short Tempered/Geared Initial is good and in mid-end it performs exceptionally fast but post 7k rpm it takes a lot for her to sustain

Damn this office laptop. Would be posting the most recent pic of my bike in the evening.

- Jatin

Originally Posted by lichin

How much is cost for karizma clutch plate and hard springs,,,how is the feel and mileage now,,,I am not getting oem clutch plate part for my cbz so can i use karizma plates,,,?

I think the set cost about 1200ish total. The oil was around 220. Yes, you can use the original Karizma clutch plates in the CBZ.

The feel is very good, it has a free revving growl and the pickup is very smooth in all gears. This didn't happen before. The gear shifts are very smooth now, as well.
I haven't checked the mileage actually. As long as its over 35, its good enough.