Just saw the thread now.
A few pointers that were pointed to you earlier were,
The newer versions of the P180 have a different timing chain adjuster - like on the P200 and P220. Hence you will need to change to the new type. It ofcourse is part of your own packaging as was the rear footpeg mod. We cannot help but only provide the latest iteration of the engines as Bajaj keeps puzzling around with parts every few months. And thats beyond our reach.
Coming to your crankcase, again Bajaj has combination of crankcase version from the P150 and P180 all running in the same production line. In your case, one of the cases seemed to have an extra metal casting. The right method would have been to fill the crankcase with a white cotton cloth, file off the extra bump with a nice round file and clean it all off with some parts cleaner or fuel. This seems a bit dangerous. I bet so much metal has already gone in. Keep a check on your oil drain, next time. Should be quite filthy.
We have done quite a few P180 install and they are perfect fit. Just a few days ago our forum member Puneet got his 2011 P180 fitted with the 210cc upgrade. Pls check with him if needed on the crankcase part.
Anyways, congrats on your ride and keep it going well.

Thanks bro. I'm running her in now... Its a small city, just 5 kms to my college, so its only about 350 kms now. Will change oil at the 500 kms like you mentioned.

And Guys, I should give a small apology: Yes, Joel did mention (in one of the starting e-mails) that the newer versions of the P180 have a different timing chain adjuster than older. Only I forgot it and that's solely my mistake... It was in one of the earlier mails and I just didn't print them out.


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UPDATE: The Rearsets are installed on both sides now, and the footpegs are finally at an equal height. I got a jet drilled but it got too big due to someone's mistake, even bigger than Karizma's, so I will try to get a new karizma jet for this purpose.

I adjusted the carb myself (its running now with a 118 size jet from HMC Achiever), and its clearly not overheating now. But still, I feel that something is confusing about it... It could be running richer now, I think. Will work on it.

@Samarth: My bike(P180 UG4) is running on Joel's BBkit+Headwork+FFE. Its really shocking to hear about the headaches which you had during this upgrade. Let me tell you frankly, it did not take more than 30min for me to get this kit installed and I did not wander all round the city for the parts infact nothing was required too.

Thanks for making that bit clear, Puneeth!

I totally understand. Its due to UG3 vs UG4.

Mine was UG3, with a lot more extra parts required, which were the UG4 rear set footpeg holders (the silver colored parts on which footpegs are attached) for left and right side both, their nut bolts (THE MOST DIFFICULT TO FIND), main jet, the left footpeg which didn't fit directly to the new footpeg holder, Chain tensioner which was forgotten due to my mistake, Left single toe Gear lever, etc, etc...

Its just one generation, but the footpeg related parts are quite different. But thanks for sharing this. Nice to know about the easy fitting. All the best buddy...

This is how she looks now, after the left foot peg conversion:



Now, it has the following changes from stock:

1. Race Concepts 208cc (68.5mm) bore, and exhaust,
2. Chain sprocket (14/39, 520 pitch) from P180 UG4, onto my bike,
3. Rearset Footpeg setup from P180 UG4,
4. Chain guard from Discover 135 Sports,
5. Tyre hugger removed,
6. YZF R15's tyres installed both sides,
7. Tubeless Tyre setup installed on rims,
8. Main jet #118 (Achiever)


Planned:
1. A new seat,
2. A new handlebar from P200 (older) or FZ,
3. Head change to that of P220, to be tuned by Joel. Thanks to him, he offered a head tune for free with the setup I bought.
4. After this head, will consider installing a #125 jet, which I have ready with me.
5. Will remove alloy rim strips, and maybe, stick new ones in its place.

running-in completed..??

You got tyres from version 2 or version 1 ?

Please remove the ugly seat cover you have put, looks very very ugly.

Main jet from Achiever?? isnt the carb of Achiever a keihin make??, the jet size numbers are not same so 118 might not be the same size as the 118 from mikuni make. The Apache RTR 180 and the Bajaj Avenger 220 DTSi both use the same carburettor as the 180 ug3 i.e (Mikuni BS29) why dont you get their main jets?

Not yet. About 400 kms completed. Damn what a small city!
R15 Version 1. Zapper FY 80/90 x 17 and Zapper S 100/80 x 17. Both running tubeless now, with great grip but they wear out quick.
Installed them on 15k kms. Right now its 22k kms and they seem worn out, despite no stunts done, only hard riding at the worst.
Had removed the seat cover 4 days ago, due to rains, but I saw that the seat was torn due to some damage, and the yellow foam is visible now. Will get a new seat setup soon.
Is the Twin seat setup from P180 UG4 a direct fit to my UG3? Or what would I have to change to fit it? Any suggestions anyone?

As far as the main jet is concerned, I visually checked both jets multiple times in good light, and the Achiever's #118 was bigger by a very very minor difference. These both jets looked almost the same.

So, maybe the carb has changed from Kehien to Mikuni OR, the jet number markings on HMC bikes' parts are by the Mikuni standards to avoid confusion. I'm not sure which one is true.

I have the Karizma's #125 jet ready with me. But, since I achieved good AFR with the 118 jet only, then I felt installing #125 is not required. Will use this #125 sized jet when I get the bigger tuned head from Joel. Even Joel advised #120 only, and nowhere near #125.

Split seats are not direct fit to ug3 pulsars. You have to weld two clamps for pillion seat and a lock for front seat. Btw, what is the cost of r15 v1's front tyre?

Thanks Prabhakar for the info. Will see what can be done...


Guys, I got an update:
Today, I tried some 720p video taping of my ride and the video is too long, so will upload from my college's 20 mbps line TOMORROW. Otherwise, the performance is very nice.

I'm getting 0-60 on speedo somewhere between 4-5 seconds while launching at 4-5 krpm and shifting at 8 krpm.
40-70 kmph roll on in top gear is just 6 seconds or so, despite not giving complete throttle.
Overall performance is very good, the grunt seems better than a stock P220 I tested once.

Moreover, I can now maintain 24 kmph on speedo in top gear in city limits (you will see this in video). The exhaust somehow avoids stalling of the bike, even at such low speeds, all I do is blip the throttle and it responds, although lethargically as expected.

Here's the video guys: (youtube.com/watch?v=0yrfueT9LiA)



Now, I know its taken from a wrong angle, and the reflection from the tank lowered the video exposure, but the roll ons, 0-60 and commuting speeds are evidently clear IF YOU KEEP RESOLUTION AT 720p and go fullscreen. Do try it and let me know.

Video details:
0-60 run is located at 0:06 on the video.
Roll on (40-70, without going full throttle) is at 2:10 on the video.
Commuting at low speeds is shown at 4:30 on the video.

You can ask any questions here, or at the youtube comments area.

Nice Message

Nice video.............the Blue bus messed up the fun.
Loved the ending which clearly called for a tea-snack at your house

But one thing..........the Bike got off 0kmph at 0.08 secs, and it went 60 kmph in 0.15secs !!! ?? 7 secs for 0-60 kmph ?

Maybe u wer just rolling off, instead of accelerating the way they measure 0-60