Re: Firebrigade Bullet

@PSR Sir.. [MENTION=32641]shv18[/MENTION].. "A man's mistakes are his portals of discovery." Let them learn from their mistakes

@ All the other people dreaming to get Joeled.. All the very best And do remember "What do you first do when you learn to swim? You make mistakes, do you not? And what happens? You make other mistakes, and when you have made all the mistakes you possibly can without drowning - and some of them many times over - what do you find? That you can swim? Well - life is just the same as learning to swim! Do not be afraid of making mistakes, for there is no other way of learning how to live! "

Re: Firebrigade Bullet

Here is a simple Explanation and method of Tuning a CV Carb....this text is an extract from a write up by Marc W. Salvisberg .....

Follow steps in order....First, dial in:

1. Top end (full throttle / 7.5k to redline -
Best Main Jet must be selected before starting step 2 (needle height)!

Select Best Main Jet
To get the best, most even top end power (full throttle/after 7500 rpm), select the main jet that produces the hardest pull at high rpm.
If the bike pulls harder at high rpm when cold and less hard when fully warmed up, the main jet is too large. Install a smaller main jet and retest
until you find the main jet that pulls the hardest at high rpm when fully warmed up. This must be done first - before moving on to the other tuning
ranges.

If the bike doesn't pull well at high rpm when cold and gets only slightly better when fully warmed up, the main jet is too small.
In order to properly tune the midrange and low rpm carburetion, THE MAIN JET MUST FIRST BE PROPERLY SELECTED after 10 to 15
minutes of hard use!

Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing main jets - you still need to be using the main jets that produce
the best power at high rpm. You will deal with the low-end / cruise later - after step 2.

2. Midrange (full throttle /5k-7k)

Step 1 (Best Main Jet) must be selected before starting step 2!
Select best needle clip position
To get the best power at full throttle / 5k-7k rpm, adjust the needle height, after you have already selected the best main jet.
If the engine pulls better or is smoother at full throttle/5k-7k in a full throttle roll-on starting at <3k when cool but soft and/or rough when at full
operating temperature, it is too rich in the midrange and the needle should be lowered.
If the engine pulls better when fully warmed up but still not great between 5k-7k, try raising the needle to richen 5k-7k.
If the engine pulls equally well between 5k-7k when cooler as compared to fully warmed up, the needle height is probably properly set.

Do not pay too much attention to the low-end richness when you are changing needle clip positions - you still need to be using the clip position
that produces the best full throttle / 5k-7k power in conjunction with the main jets (Step 1) that produce the best power at high rpm. You will deal
with the low-end / cruise next.

3. Low end (full throttle / 2k-3k)

Step 1 (Best Main Jet) and Step 2 (needle height) must be selected before starting step 3!
Float height (AKA fuel level & how to..)
To get best low-end power, set float height (fuel level) so that the engine will accept full throttle, without missing or stumbling, in 2nd gear from

2.5k to 3k rpm at minimum.
Float heights, unless otherwise specified in the installation guide, are measured from the "gasket surface" of the carb body to the highest part
of the top of the float - with the float tang touching but not compressing the float valve spring.
If the engine has a "wet" rhythmic, soggy area at full throttle / 3k-4k rpm, that gets worse as the engine heats up, lower the fuel level by
resetting the float height 1mm greater (if the original was 13mm - go to 14mm). This will lower the fuel level, making full throttle / 2k-3k rpm
leaner.
If the engine is "dry" and flat between 2k to 3k rpm, raise the fuel level.
Example: change float height from 15mm to 14mm to richen up that area.

REMEMBER, since the main jet WILL affect low speed operation, the MAIN JET has to be within 1 or 2 sizes of correct before final float
setting.

Warning: If the engine is left with the fuel level too high,, the engine may foul plugs on the street and will be "soft" and boggy at part throttle
operation. Adjust Floats to raise/ lower the Fuel Level.
Base settings are usually given if a particular application has a history of fuel level criticalness. The Fuel level height in the float bowl affects full
throttle/low rpm and, also, richness or leanness at cruise/low rpm.
Reference: a bike that runs cleanly at small throttle openings when cold, but starts to show signs of richness as it heats up to full operating
temperature, will usually be leaned out enough to be correct if the fuel level is LOWERED 1mm.

Needless to say, FUEL LEVEL IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT!!!
If there are low-end richness problems, even after lowering the fuel level much more than 1.5mm from our initial settings, check for needle wear
and needle jet (part of the emulsion tube). See Worn Needle and Worn Needle Jet diagram. It is VERY common for the brass needle jets (in
the top of the "emulsion tube") in 36mm, 38mm and 40mm Mikuni CV carbs to wear out in as little as 5,000 miles. Check them for "oblong"
wear - the needle jet orifice starts out round! Factory Pro produces stock replacement needle jets / emulsion tubes for 36mm and 38mm

Continues.......................

Re: Firebrigade Bullet

Thats sad bro!! Get well soon and make sure you dont skip any safety equipment in future. It happens once in a while and you cant judge when its going to. Take care!! "Prevention is better than cure"

Re: Firebrigade Bullet

Hi PSR sir, its exactly as you said. This injury changed my perception of life and work altogether.

You wont believe the bad luck. Only that day I skipped the goggles. Honestly I only went to review the progress of work and SMACK.
It went right through the eyelid and it was 'die hard' all over the floor. Hehe.

But now after a month it seems to have healed for the better. No more games with the eyes ever again in my life.

I am in touch with shv18 and Motozone and shall start work on the bike after sometime.

cheers...

Re: Firebrigade Bullet

Novice......Very sad to hear what happened to your eye, but don't you wear eye protection when you work ? eye is an important part of us and a person used to it, cannot be without it..so please do take care...I have gone through my share of eye injuries and broken parts, which made me realise that what we take for granted is actually a gift from God,and we must respect this Gift and take Good care of it....I had started looking at life on a different perspective since ...
Good Luck, and wish you a speedy recovery and a Healthy Happy life....

Re: Firebrigade Bullet

Hi all,

Shv18, are you back from your short trip to the north??? Hope you found your God and now will be at peace for some while.

I am sorry that I had been absent for an extended period of time from this thread after assuring all that iwould get the remaining tuning done
by Motozone at the earliest.

The thing is that I was advised against using computer or television after my EYE operation last fortnight.

I really am not able to understand why fate is smitinf me at this hour of my life. One after the other I am facing a lot of hurdles.

The operation was done coz of a metal particle lodged into my EYE during work. It had slit open my upper eye and for a moment it was the
bloody eye scene from bollywood movies.

Luckily my retina survived the slit and am now able to see some blurr images at the moment. So as soon as they removed my eye patch
today I am here posting about the delay in getting my ride tuned.

Also without naming any others I am of the opinion that whoever follows this thread, does so, by his/her choice.

Nobody is dragging anybody and making him write or read this thread. People who dont care should refrain from making this thread foul
by withholding their unnecessary remarks.

Those who read this thread are mature and intelligent enough what to take and what not to take from this thread. ME and shv18 dont
want other noobs or the less informed guys take the plunge first and then regret their decion for hot rodding.

We are merely stating practical facts here and not any scientific assumptions for the benefit of the whole community at large.

Also those who do not want it can simply ignore the advice and go with their lives. As PSR sir said earlier life is tough and you dont know when it
would smite you in the face.

That time these very people you despise will be here day and night trying to help you in spite of our differences.

cheers...

Firebrigade Bullet

Hi All,

Forgive me for an OT but today i just saw a bullet on active service as a fire brigade in Shimla, Himachal Pradesh. This is something new for me.. so just though of sharing the pics with my fellow riders :





Pic 1 & 2: A proud moment for RE fans. Bullet on active duty as a fire brigade vehicle.


Cheers,

Re: Drag runs set up

Guess you are having a well deserved outing with the family .....
Regarding carburetors, a separate thread is required to understand their, construction,type, and applications,since they are not easy devices to " setup " without knowing the basics and a hands on experience....with the increased introduction of Fuel Injection ,even in 100 cc engines,the end days of Carburetor is near....
So I will try to share what little i know of them..

Carburetors can be classified by their type of air breathing , Venturi , and slide/butterfly options ...

I will be brief and use simple terms to express .

The type of Air inlet into Carburetor describes the device's " draft " type.
A carburetor breathing air from an air filter from below it's level, is called the " Updraft " carb.,since the air flow into the carburetor is upwards direction.. This type of carb., prevented Flooding due it's nature of construction, and mostly used in early engines...
A Carburetor breathing air from an Air Filter ,from a higher level , is called " Down Draft", since the Air flow is down wards..this was a method most popular from the 1930's, and most of the older Vintage restored Cars are witness to this popular design..
Both the Updraft and Downdraft Carburetors were possible as long as engine bay spaces were adequate...but with more higher power, bigger engine with more cylinders started filling the engine bay, space became premium and so the " Side Draft" carburetor came into being.....
One of the Biggest advantage of the Side Draft carburetor was it had direct delivery of air in tune with Accelerator, and by reducing the distance from Air filter to carb., air delivery and better acceleration was possible due to less air turbulence in intake manifold of carburetor..Still the shorter the Carburetor inlet pipe, the better the engine's response, and any length above 2 inches warrants resonance tuning ..

Another classification of Carburetor is by their Venturi design...

There are predominantly Two types of Venturi design ie., The Fixed type and The Variable Venturi...

The Fixed Venturi is just as it says.....The Venturi of the Carburetor is fixed and there are no Throttle slides in them...There is a Throttle Butterfly Valve as it is called which regulates the air flow through the carburetor venturi, and hence the Vacuum signal, and the amount of Petrol drawn through the metering tube.....Unless very carefully selected for a particular engine design, more often these carburetors will allow more air under hard acceleration and cause AF mix lean out.....
To counter this problem later design of Carburetors had a design modification...they added an accelerator pump...this was a rubber diaphragm which was actuated when the accelerator was used suddenly ...this in turn pumped petrol through an auxiliary jet , into the Carb., Venturi . This method had the draw back of flooding the engine during sudden acceleration at less than optimum RPM....Another Clever design change was brought in to counter this problem .The Venturi was divided into two sections ...the primary section was actuated by the accelerator and the secondary chamber was actuated by the Vacuum signal from the engine. This meant that the primary venturi had strong vacuum signal ,having balanced AFR and when the engine achieved a specific higher RPM ,the engine vacuum will open the secondary venturi to give more richer AFR and higher acceleration.This kind of Carburetor can be seen in Maruti cars with carburetor.

The Variable Venturi Carburetor is just what it's name says....the inner diameter of the carb is fixed, which is what we mention when referring to the carb ....this is the Venturi size....in the variable venturi carb, a Throttle slide , along with needle is used to meter the AFR as required.
In this there are Two types...the direct actuated and Vacuum operated....In the direct operated type the throttle slide operation is controlled by the amount of throttle given , and this type of carburetor was used in the TWO stroke / performance engines.....and in the Constant Vacuum type it is the engine Vacuum which decides on the AFR ...the CV carb is more forgiving in conditions of wrong " Setup ", though a proper Venturi size is a must for guaranteed performance.It is easier to tune in a CV carb., than a Normal carb...

In the slide shape also there are three types of slides..." The Round, The D Type and The Flat Type"
The Round type slide is more linear in air flow governance, the D Type is a bit more aggressive, and the Flat type allows the Maximum flow...

This in brief is the Common Types of carbs ..

Hope this is helpful....

Here are some Images to help....

The Updraft


The Down draft


The side draft CV type


The Four Venturi Holley Carb for performance Drag car

Drag runs set up

Hi All,

sorry for not responding, i am currently out with my parents on a family trip in Himachal Pradesh. I am indeed surprised with the way the discussions have taken place here during my short duration of absence. However, i feel all the readers are well aware of the intent behind this thread and the real reason behind my constant effort to educate and allow riders look at hot roding in a new perspective. I am indeed overwhelmed with the support and understanding i have received from all the fellow riders.. Thank you everyone for taking all my comments and concerns in a positive way..

Thank you [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] ji and [MENTION=11853]abhijeet080808[/MENTION] for sharing their respective views on the topic... I couldn't agree more and couldn't have expressed my real intent better than you gentlemen have.. Anyways, keeping in line with the momentum of the thread, let's not deviate from the topic and turn this thread into another flamed infused one and let's continue with my story so far..

My FZ - X has been handed over to Motozone for inspection, engine blue printing and initial tests with different carbs in order to see which config gives us what results till the time i return to Mumbai. So on "D" day of the test we are in a better position to just swap the carbs and get the Gtech data logger test done without fiddling around with the carb config, set ups, jetting etc...

So stay tuned for more updates regarding the developments on the same. This is going to be a lot of fun

In the mean time i would request [MENTION=32286]psr[/MENTION] ji to share with us his findings and experience with different types of carburettors so that all readers, especially Noobs are well aware of what is to be expected from different types of carbs. Sir if i remember correctly you had shared a good and informative study on the latest developments with the diesel locomotive engines in India. Would request you to kindly enlighten us on this thread just for knowledge sharing purpose.

I shall try to log in whenever i do get proper network reception and internet connectivity..

Regarding revealing the real story behind bullet proof claims.. believe me!! i have just finished my warm up...

Soon to be disclosed... "Tooner's special Race Clutch springs Vs. Stock Clutch Springs: A quick way of losing 2k from your wallet" with data and scientific tests to back my findings..


Till then..

Cheers,

Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

When someone makes the effort to reply to you warning to be careful, please don't reply " no one cares"...because in your hour of need the same words can come back to you as a reply .....I hope for your Good, you will change this approach .....Life is a tough teacher, and is merciless in making us all learn.... the hard way, if we so prefer it.
Good Luck to you...

Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

I did not see any unwanted "venting" out by anyone on this thread. The discussion here is extremely mature in spite of the personal losses most of the posters have suffered at the hands of the Tooner. And what for? It is just to warn other members of this community about the pitfalls of these plug and pray kits. There is no personal motive here. I suggest that you let it be so.

Also, it is not "no one cares". Its just that YOU do not care. That's perfectly fine too. You have a choice not to follow this tread. Exercise that. By bringing out the dangers of changing ECU params of the D200, shv18 is just informing the readers of this thread that these plug and play ECUs too have a amount of risk associated to it. This helps lesser informed owners make a informed decision on whether to play around with the ECU or not. I think we should appreciate such posts.

Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

I just echoed what a lot of us D200 owners feel when unwanted advice is dished out. If you still want to do so, please do it, but no one cares.

Re: Piston & Cylinder warping test

What do you mean by a endurance engine?
I know there are endurance races held abroad, something like that?

Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

No where it is implied that calling someone otherwise will solve any problem..

If you pay someone 40,000/- plus in advance, made to wait for long on delivery of product, (which was promised to be delivered in quick time), and in the end get substandard material , which on use fails miserably and does not even deliver minimum amount of satisfaction, and the supplier suddenly becomes ,deaf to your calls /mails etc., and says is busy otherwise, and is unable to satisfactorily solve your problem under some pretext or other, and continues to ignore you, so that you have to kiss your hard earned 40,000/- good bye...what will you call such a supplier ? will you be affectionate towards him, or angry ?
Common sense tell me I will be extremely angry, and such people will have no more place in my life, and I will definitely share my experience,with others, so that no one else meets with the same fate.....
Regarding ignition timing issue, I feel it is with good intention....None of the CRITICAL Operating parameters of the KTM is known in detail... My guess is that he is trying to stop a Catastrophic failure before it happens and hence posted on the same....after all why should he say it if his intent is not good?, IT IS EASY NOT TO OFFER ANY OPINION, AND KEEP QUIET, and let life take you through your experience...when walking on the road, if someone happen to trip on a stone, as a well meaning human he will warn others about it, or try to move it away..If we find fault with such helpful people, we will ultimately have no one to pull us out of deep pit...

These are just my thought and in no way ,do I expect members to agree to it....

Re: The POWERHOUSE Fz18

No sir u dont.just go through forum rules once.discuss yes, calling names NO.

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