@abhimanyu31

I generally put in Rs200 worth of petrol, that comes to exactly 2.7L or 2700mL.

If I were to add 5% acetone, vol/vol, then that would make 2700mL petrol 95% and 142mL acetone as 5%, total volume = 2.842L.

So basically you mean we should add 142mL acetone to 2.7L of petrol to get the proper mix & an octane boost of about 3 right?

Please correct me if I am wrong. Also, have you tried this on your bike? Thanks...

Cheers and Ride Safe..!

You can use the method mentioned by you. Ya, I have been using the same for my bikes for the past 15 years. Whenever my friends and I went racing and aviation gas was not available for our race prepared high compression engines, we used this concoction. It worked just fine. We used much higher concentrations than 5%.

@Manoj - You are not offending me in any way, except for the fact that most of the facts stated by YOUR review is quite clueless and I'm really surprised how you could conclude on things. The bigbore in your first case was replaced, thanks to my illness right at the point when you landed for the build and I could not really attend to everything on my own. The block had very low clearance and hence was identified and replaced with the right clearance one.
Anyways, you can always get back to me on whatever you want. Your new bigbore has the right clearance and I can make an open bet on the reliability. We have countless kits running on the same. It was indeed a mistake from our end that a block that was honed for the wrong size was installed with the right sized piston, with my illness caught in between. FYI, any engine with slightly higher compression over stock will knock under load. If you have higher octane fuel, it will be non-existent.
Its not the grade of fuel, its the quality of fuel thats bad in non-metros. The reason for the extra gasket is, if you have access to higher octane, you can remove and get all that extra bit from the engine. That kit will be a treat if you ever get access to Speed 97.

@mad Mik - I guess you still didnt read what I mentioned right. What we have is a variant of the D15 engine and its not the same. They have a lot of changes. Which is why the trouble. Lets drop it,. YOu have your theory over something that you have not seen here. Our engine is called the B15, not D15. Anyways, this is heavily off-topic. I do not wish to continue this.

@plasmabhai - You can use Toluene. The best compensation in case you have no high octane fuel. Will bump octane levels by a great margin. For our engines, from what we have tested and tried, around 8% works super. YOu will find instant refinement, zero knocks and indeed good gains overall.
Thats 80ml per litre of petrol. You can go as high as 10% if needed. Thats the race fuel on a rainy day

Buy your petrol from a trusted Indian Oil pump, their standard is 91 RON throughout the country, add some toluene or retard your ignition by around 4 degrees if required, then no knocking. We have the same issues here in Goa, pretty much all proper bikes here run octane boosters (bought off the shelf for silly $$$$) I run between 15-20% toluene on my R15 with IOC fuel and have no issues, I can even reduce to 10% for normal use, even at 20% it still works out to around 62Rs per litre of fuel, equivalent to running Speed 97 and much cheaper.

@abhimanyu31 @Joel @stefanm Thanks for the information and your experiences... I have access to high quality AR grade acetone as well as toluene... so, good to get this infor from you guys!

Thank God after toiling some 3-4 months finally got the tune right. Thanks to Murali who told me to change all the jets with the Pulsar 180cc Jet kit. After changing the pilot jet and the needle jets, the bike is behaving bit better than before. Though I have lost the early punch of the 125 size jet but I can understand that there aren't great odd ugly sounds except the cam sound. Now the only part to be addressed is the mileage. Haven't crossed 36km/l yet.

Hi,

Could you tell me does the check engine red light on the console blink after you on the ignition.

Not the engine. I am just saying ON ignition, engine OFF.

Mine keeps blinking after i ON the ignition and stays on after i start the engine(obviously coz of the TPS).

So i wanna know if it keeps blinking or stays off BEFORE the engine is started.

cheers...

Okay guys!

We've had enough of OT and name calling on this thread.

some of the latest posts have been deleted as the first step.

Kindly stick to the topic and avoid engaging in personal wars to avoid penalty from the admins.

mine doesn't blink and stay off when the engine is started but after sometime it stays on. And in some occasions it keeps blinking just as yours.

Hi,
I had replied already to your question, but it got deleted by "xPolice" (who finally cleaned this thread!) since there was also some reference to the unpleasant series of posts, which have all been deleted.

On my bike, I have had an attachment made on the 29mm. Mikuni C.V. carb so that the TPS could be fitted. This made a great difference in how smoothly, and without knocking, the bike was responding. This TPS is connected to the CDI, of course, which CDI is not the stock one but comes from Singapore and is specially tuned for the FZ-16, with 9 different "programs". I stay with the very mild #3, though, which gives the same ignition as the stock CDI, but without the rev limiter (at some 9.5 k. rpm on the stock one - pretty high already!). I can't say it makes much difference, then!

Result is that I have the engine diagnosis red light functioning just like stock. When I put the ignition "on", first comes the diagnosis red light for a very short time, then it switches off and all the lights (green flashers, high beam blue, and neutral green) come on for a very short time too, then only the neutral one remains.

Besides the interesting action of the TPS sensor in working with the CDI to give the best ignition timing, I think that to also keep the engine diagnosis fully functional is another good thing. All it needs is some clever enough mechanic to fabricate a support and a connection for the TPS sensor. Then, if the red light blinks, or other behavior: just refer to the workshop manual, if you have it (I gave a link many times in the ownership discussion, so please hunt for it), or take it to a Yamaha authorized dealer who will have this manual.

Any schematic regarding this external TPS mounting unit would help a lot. Please do share it.

Thanks,
-Asim

Hi Asim,

I cannot respond precisely to your question: it all depends on what brand/ type carburetor you have!

From what I read, Joel provides with a UCAL carbureator....and that is all I know! Is it a round slide of a CV one??? If it is a round slide, direct action carburetor like the VM series, I am afraid you will effectively find fitting the TPS very difficult!!! As I said, I have a Mikuni CV, meaning something similar to the UCAL /BS series. There, you can have a mechanical workshop making an attachment at the en of the throttle shaft to connect to the TPS, just like what is done on the stock carb. Simple! Any valid shop will do that. Actually, UCAL says for their BS series: " Provision for coasting richer system, throttle position sensor, solenoid operated auto-starter" (direct copy form their site).

I will comment - and this not for fueling again the heated discussion that took place earlier on - that if Joel provides a (cheap!) round slide VN series UCAL, thus not enabling to fit the TPS, he should at least also provide with a CDI that does not need the TPS information input. Doing otherwise shows very little professionalism since it has been clearly demonstrated, many times, that varying the ignition timing function of the throttle position is very beneficial, and a CDI that "expects" this information will give a wrong timing for the average use. If RC/ Joel provides with a BS series CV carb (which I doubt since he is a race fan and surely prefers a direct action one...), it is there again his duty to provide with an attachment fr the TPS. But it seems that will be even more impossible to get from him than just a simple set of proper jets!!!

While at it (or at him!): the noise from the camshaft, after having adjusted the play of the rockers/ tappets to a very low minimum, which has diminished this noise to a now acceptable level, this sound has not increased anymore after about 2,000km. My bike now clocks over 10,000km, with some "serious" extra power due to the increased capacity to 205cc., and the only real issue I still face is the starting. Only till I installed the RC camshaft has this issue developped. In the morning, no problem: just do NOT touch the throttle, otherwise: BANG! (back-firing). Eventually open the choke a little if it has not started at first crank. When hot: you can see the sarcastic smile coming on the face of those who were just earlier on looking at your bike with envy when you have to spin your poor baby little starter motor for 5 to....10 seconds...! If opening the throttle even a fraction: BANG again! Not sure when that little motor, hardly able to cope with the increased capacity and compression compression, will die, and this together with the already replaced starter clutch....and with my old heart and short breath, I fear the day I shall have to kick start!

Updates after 7000 kms........

Hi guys it's been 7000 kms after the big-bore setup and finally all ends well at the end.

After receiving the 120 size jet from Murali, I'm impressed with the performance. Now I'm getting mileage at just under 40km/l and i think that's enough right now. Some people have started shifting to stock cam because of the sound but I'm still in confusion about that matter because I don't want to take chances in performance and reliability. Waiting for a reply from Joel about this matter.

Sorry for being bit aggressive on Joel but what I feel now is modding is all about taking chances and it's better people do have enough knowledge of what modding is and its advantages and consequences so that they don't turn wild on the modders. I also feel that enthusiastic modders must give the full knowledge about the modds so that it is informed that what they are doing have both fun and risks involved.

Anyways as far this day is concerned my bike takes on all 150-180cc and I'm glad in it. That's what i wanted. One true proverb I learnt after all these 4 months of headache is to 'Do your homework well before you step into unending journey'

The journey continues............

Glad that your problems are solved now
Coming to the cam part this is the latest update form Joel though on another forum.
Now, there are a few misconceptions. Let me clear them. What most dont understand is that, even engines go through work fatigue. Although they could be running stock internals, the number kms clocked can cause fatigue and by around 30k-40k kms, you ideally end up having a shaky crankshaft rod, slightly worn rockers, softer valve springs etc. When you switch to the FZ-16 street profile cam, please remove the de-comp lever to reduce the sound and set the tappet to 0.06mm for inlet and 0.08mm for exhaust. This works ideal. We are also launching the same cam, same profile without the de-comp hole in 10-15 days. So on the old cam, all you need to do is just disconnect the decomp and it becomes silent as close to stock. The bigbore, airfilter, cam and CDi can make your stock street bike quite a rocket. Later add the exhaust and carb etc to go faster.

Hi Vizack,

Although we understand that you copied/ pasted this post from Joel from another forum, couldn't you, please, have it re-formatted in order to avoid this most unpleasant big font/ bold writing that makes one feel he is hearing someone shouting in his hears?

Coming to this post from Joel, then: I am more and more wondering about this person! He is supposed to be a (high level?) engineer, though he does a complete confusion between metal fatigue and wear!
Whatever!
Our concern, us ordinary people, is how to get the best, if possible, from this camshaft we bought from this Joel. It appears the author has no idea on how to do it! Effectively, if reducing the play between tappets and valve stem to very a very small gap of course reduces the unpleasnt noise that is what we complain about (between other things), taking off the decompressor does nothing! Idid it, and I know. How come this person gives such information on what he has not even done himself while he is the person to who we should refer to solve the problems inherent to his production is just amazing.
The other problem that it seems I am not the only one to experience is the difficult start now, while my engine used to start at first crank. Very often too, and this with all other components untouched, is the engine back-firing. I don't know how long the starter clutch and the starter motor are going to survive it, but this will definitely reduce their life expectancy.
Trouble is that my stock camshaft got slightly damaged, and to go back to stock, I shall need to import another camshaft from India, since we do not have any parts here. For the little gain I got when installing this camshaft, I shall feel much better going back to the original one, for sure! The larger valves were all what I needed, not this camshaft!