Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

Thanks a lot for the reply guys. Learning a lot over the past few months courtesy you people and xbhp!
Imagine a vibe free rtr throughout the rev range what a delight!!
Ok just a Few more questions, In bikes, does a dohc provide a smoother ride compared to the same engine with a sohc?
Does liquid cooling reduce the vibrations produced by the engine?

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Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

Read whole thread today..

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Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

@ nadz11.ns You have explained quite well...
In an IC engine the vertical movement of a Piston is transferred to a Rotary movement in the Crank Shaft through offset connecting rod .

Engine crankshaft animation - YouTube

The vibration produced in the engine is mostly due to Ignition timing , Combustion power, and Crankshaft to Piston off set balancing. Some engines try to minimize this vibration through balancer which run a small off set weight in opposite phase to the crankshaft movement , thus canceling it.




Some engines use Offset Crank .

Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

I hope this is the right thread to post this. I'm sorry if this is not. I'm a newbie as you can see

I have had this doubt for a long time. What is the proper way to brake? With the clutch or without? I feel the engine and brake pads/shoes would be damaged if you brake suddenly without clutch.


PS. I searched my level best to see if there's something related to it. I couldn't find it. If there's please direct me!

Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

Well am no expert, but every component which is rigid (undamped) carries/transfers vibration from source throughout the body.

In Automobiles the sources of vibrations are 1. Engine/ Motor
2. Road or sometimes in worst case wind blowing head on will create plastic parts(farings - if thin & loose) vibrate.

Its so simple that these vibs are carried, because every part is connected. Also while designing each part, caution is taken that the natural frequency of part will never fall under vibration range of bike or road. This is why some bike parts are chenged w.r.t locations/road conditions.

If any parts resonates with right aplitude (measured in "g" values), its broken.
Vibs can be damped using mounting cushions/dampers etc.. so even if frequency matches, amplitide will not be enough to break the part.

Normal bikes will experience vibes upto 20g s in frame & 3-7g s in damped parts.
Frequency will be in range of 50-500 Hz or more if revs are more.

Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

ALWAYS WITHOUT CLUTCH... clutch is for transmission of gears only. if you use clutch while braking, engine braking is cut off and there is no engine control. i think you are not used to, the term engine control. take you bike to a slope. start riding down and come to 2nd gear.

the bike wont cross beyond 40 km/hr due to its engine braking and giving better control. now if you depress clutch, the bike picks up speed on slope due to nil engine braking , just as in neutral, and when you use brakes, the force needed will be much higher to stop, thus damaging brake system more.

and i think, you want to protect each and every part on bike as new. in a nut shell, its never possible, one or the other part needs to be compromised for the larger safer run. good bikers use every part in a sync manner, than putting pressure on just 1 part.

please think more on your sentence, "I feel the engine and brake pads/shoes would be damaged if you brake suddenly without clutch. "

then do you intend to stop it then, without brake wear? brakes are the cheapest to afford on a bike. remember that.

your doubt really consists of many parts, and i feel the easiest way is to read wikipedia. some links are here

Clutch control - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ( read deceleration )

Engine braking - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

normal braking is a bit different from panic braking.

braking starts from faster observation, releasing throttle, changing seating posture, bringing the engine braking first and then using front and rear brakes in sync as needed. said that, it also depends on your bike setup, tyres, its air pressures, suspension, brake system that you have ...

Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons



Thanks a lot mate.. Well the word engine control is new to me but I've experienced what you mentioned there...
And about what I said I actually wanted to write about the inverse of what I mentioned there, which is won't the engine be damaged by braking without clutch.. coz whenever I do that I feel there's a lot of stress put on the engine than braking with clutch.
And I feel the sync you mentioned about comes naturally to all bikers? And I'll check those links as soon as I get home thanks for the help.

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Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

first of all, before you post, read it a couple of times, make sure, its what you want to tell others. simply typing and posting is bad in public.

and im thinking hard how on earth would braking be stress on engine? come on, once engine is started and bike rolls, it has to stop at sometime, isnt? maybe, you are not used to use gears as the torque in engine. see, shifting gears is preliminary to braking often. now to do this, there are 2 ways, with your eyes and ears.

i assume that your bike got tachometer. use your eyes to see and shift appropriately. to use ears you must be an experienced rider, not being offensive here. after practising with eyes and tacho you will be able to judge the gear the engine needs just by its sound.
some say this as, getting intimate with your ride...

sharing a link the manual guide though here its about car, the tacho stuff is almost same.

please dont get confused that clutch is needed for braking. some best riders dont even require clutch to transmit gears...its just about getting the right rpm inside engine and pre loading the shifter. you are confused, maybe because, you fear of stalling the bike while braking.

during braking the speeds are getting reduced and you must down shift aptly , which is where clutch comes in. once you practise these please learn about blip and shift technique later.

Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

Hi guys,
have a question, posted it on CBR 150R thread but didn't get any answer so posting it here.
I have been riding R15 since last 3.5 yrs and as soon as CBR 150 R was launched, was exited and instead of celebrating people started verbal battles and started mentioning pros and cons of each bike.


one of which was an closed loop FI in CBR 150 R, as far as I know an closed loop uses the measurement of exhaust gases(using o2 sensor/Lambda sensor) for precise fueling. but there's a catch, a closed loop is used only in the initial RPM's i.e. below 60% of max RPM(according to BikeBoy.org - Fuel Injection – Open Loop and Closed Loop) since CBR has 11.5 k as cutoff, the closed loop will work until somewhere around 5-5.5 k, and post this it works as a regular open loop(found in R15)


Now here's my question, CBR being a short stroke has to revved hard to extract power (suggested by owners themselves, the shifting of gears has to be done post 5-5.5 k) so why is the CBR having a closed loop instead of open loop system when most of the time it will work post the required RPM of Closed Loop.


right now trying to learn about FI's.

CHEERS

Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

I have the softest suspension setup on my Duke 200 and I don't feel the confidence while leaning into corners(whatever little I do). I never bothered to change the setup since I did not know their effects.
Will try hardening the rear suspension a couple of points and check the difference..
But the tool for doing it is not included in the tool box which makes it a bit inconvenient.
Thanks for the in depth explanation. I could imagine myself going into corners while reading I usually do at lavasa(Pune)..!!


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Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

I had the habit of always braking with clutch pressed in. But for the last few days, I have been practising braking without pressing clutch. What I experience is that if I just close the throttle and apply the brakes without pulling clutch, I experience a sudden jerk forward. Am I doing something wrong?

And sometimes when we just have to close the throttle (without applying brakes), should we still not press the clutch?

Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

Of course you would because the forces of engine braking are also acting when you are decelerating and not pressing clutch..


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Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

Nope, don't disengage clutch while closing throttle, unless of course you want to change gear.

Re: INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

So, how can this be prevented? I am sure it wouldn't be normal to experience this forward jerk everytime once has to brake. It's more annoying for the pillion.

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Sorry, didn't get you. When you say don't disengage clutch while closing throttle, you mean engage the clutch meaning press the clutch while closing throttle. Is that right?

INFO: A Guide On Technical Jargons

The amount of engine braking will defer for every bike and how smoothly or aggressively you are releasing the throttle.
I believe slipper clutches have lesser engine braking than wet clutches..
Please quote someone if I'm wrong..


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