This link might help ...

http://www.ashonbikes.com/content/running

I've used orthodox & proved method ^ & will suggest same why to do R&D ?

Bike break in/ run in is done or not

HI,

I would like know how we can check the break in of the new bike is doen or not.

In bike manual they will usually the company will specify the no.of kilometres to be done.

Is that the only reference or can we feel any differnce in the bike performance also.

Plase carify my doubt guys.

Re: Engine Break in Process and Methods

hi Abhijeet ,
This was really helpfull and cleared all the doubts , thanks a lot for sharing ....

Nitin......

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Hi.
This helped a lot .. thanks a lot for sharing ..

Break-in / Running Period Validity ?

Bike Owners, just wanted to know your personal opinion on Break-in / Running Period of Apache RTR 180, i.e. you should not cross 50 KMPH for first 1000 Kms !

Given the new advanced bikes and perfect engines, does this concept still hold true ?

Thanks,
Shubham

Re: Break-in / Running Period Validity ?

Query Approved.

Though most manufacturers recommend a set speed, reading the manual more carefully states that "varying throttle" rather than a fixed position break in riding would help the rings more adjust suitably.


Basically don't ride at a set 50 55, vary the throttle say occasional jolts of <=75kmph, this way the engine wears uniformly, as opposed to just in a particular pattern, which we don't want.

Cheers!
VJ

Re: Break-in / Running Period Validity ?

Thanks for the pointers

Re: Break-in / Running Period Validity ?

Dear Shubham,

Modern motorcycle engines are designed to extremely close tolerances and can hold up to abuse pretty well. However, one must remember that it doesnt matter how 'advanced' an engine is, at the end of the day its parts are still made up of metal and are hence affected by the laws of metallurgy plus of course, the laws of Physics.

A motorcycle engine consists of several parts (valves, valve guides/springs, piston, connecting rod, crank, piston rings, clutch, gears, bearings, etc.) that are in a constant state of friction the moment the engine is fired up. In a new engine, these parts have not been subjected to extremities of heat and cold, i.e. expansion and contraction due to which they have not 'bedded in' with each other perfectly (though they are extremely close to it). That is why running in process, if done properly, helps these parts to bed in perfectly with one another and this leads to optimum performance of the engine in the long run.

The correct way of running in a motorcycle engine is called 'Progressive Running In'. Basically what you do is subject the engine components to successive degrees of expansion and contraction by steadily increasing engine speed in each gear over a long period of time. For example, as the manual of Apache says, do not exceed 50kmph for the first 1000 km - this does not mean that you can start to rev the nuts off the engine as soon as it crosses 1000km. What you should do is to steadily subject the engine to, say 60kmph for another 50 kms, then to 70kmph for the next 50 kms, then to 80/90/100 kmph over next few kms and so on till the engine has been subjected to all possible rpms (without breaking it, of course) in all gears. This procedure exposes the engine components to all degrees of heat range and hence its components get a chance to form a perfect fit with one another. Also, one must avoid riding at a constant speed during the running in process as this could lead to the engine components getting 'glazed' - you must keep varying your speeds withing a given rpm range during the running in. Also, avoid long highway rides during the running in. Take a 5-10 minute break every half an hour. Change engine oil and filters bang on schedule.

Take care of your engine - treat it with respect and it shall respect you in return.

Regards,
Daniel

Re: Break-in / Running Period Validity ?

Thanks a lot, that was very helpful

Just an addition query, wanted to know if this also holds good for cars and other heavy locomotives ?

Thanks,
Shubham

Re: Break-in / Running Period Validity ?

Locomotives, no idea. Cars and trucks have a 1600-2000 km run in as per the manual.

Re: Break-in / Running Period Validity ?

^^^ It holds true for all internal combustion engines irrespective of the type of fuel being used and size of the engine.

Re: Break-in / Running Period Validity ?

I don't think speed is important during run-in period . It's the RPM that matters the most . Don't over/under rev each gear . On the safe side, if it's written in the manual to keep RPMs between 5-6K during first 1000 Kms, then stick to it . Don't worry if your bike reaches 90is in those rpms , watch for rpm .

Best thing is to slowly condition each gear with random short bursts of rpm ( say +2K rpm more then what is recommended in the manual ) after 500 Kms once in a while. Condition 1-3rd gear the most as they are the hardest/harshest .

After 1000KMs don't redline all the time . Instead increase the bursts to say 80 % of Redline for each gear . And once a while give 100 % Rev at random gears . And after 1500 you may ride hard with correct rpms/gear combo : ) . Tame your bike good and always keep the RPMS right . Never ever ride with highgear+lowerrev combo . Keep everything tight .

If you go too soft on the engine, you are actually not taming the engine for handling those high speeds and rings/valves won't seat properly and may result in reduced power and lesser responsive engine . If you have successfully completed the run-in period..you will feel each gear much smoother, more responsive and this should stay like that for the lifetime of engine .

--> For a new Day atleast give the bike 2 minutes of idle start daily, so that oil is spread to all parts and try to run the bike at low speeds for first KM to ensure engine is warmed up .

Re: Engine Break in Process and Methods

thanks for the info! have a question

some say oil change should happen after 30-50 kms of first ride ( mineral only) then at 1000km after 1st service.

some say dont change in break in period only at first service 1000km. (after break-in)

which is correct?

Re: Break-in / Running Period Validity ?

Neat!!! It's really good to see someone giving such sensible advice in simple language.



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Is my Run in completed

As the title says I followed the motoman way but was within 4k rpm till 490 kms and never even exceeded 60 till 490 kms. However I am in 750 kms and occasionally take it to 6000-6500rpm from 2nd gear to 6th gear and ideally staying at 5500rpm.chamged engine oil at 490 kms.So am I doing the right way?And can younguide me more on a more proper running or any scope of improvement.I known what manual says I actually a Mess.that way my I will develop piston gazing and an underpowered bike.

Sent from India...

Re: Engine Break in Process and Methods

Hi.
I own a Midnight Black Colored Pulsar 220F DTSi 2014 model.

Before purchasing the bike in April 2014, I had done an extensive research on running-in of the engine.

Many of the methods made sense and some of them did not. By large, there were two methods, soft and hard.

This is what I felt was logical, scientific and reasonable.

Points I considered: Manufacturers spend millions of dollars doing research on how running-in should be performed and that they know the best.
Bajaj Pulsar 220F is derived from Kawasaki Rouser 220 . So there had to be some Japanese engineering hidden somewhere. .


1) 0-1000 kms
MAX RPM in any given gear: 4000 (No compromise here)
Time to keep engine Idled after cold start: 2 minutes (To get the oil circulated everywhere)
Time to keep engine idled after warm start: 1 minute.
Oil used: Motul 3000 4T engine oil 20W50 (never use Semi Syntheitic or Fully Synthetic or BAJAJ DTSi oil(Only my opinion) for running-in)
Drained and refilled oil(no topups) at: 300 kms and 650 kms (To get out those metal shavings).
I followed the "Art of Motorbike Pacing".
Idle RPM in cold start: 900 rpm
Idle RPM in warm start: 1300 rpm
Air-fuel ratio screw turned: 3.5 times

I specially used to go from Wanorie, Pune to Bhakti Shakti, Nigdi using the Khadki-Chinchwad-Nigdi Road at night to get no traffic intervention. I used to go through all the gears varying the RPM now and then till 600 kms. A single run at this road was of 50 kms including round trip. I used to extend the trip to Talegaon sometimes.

2) 1000-2000 kms
MAX RPM in any given gear: 5000 (frequent(but not very frequent) short non aggressive bursts upto 7000 rpm)
Time to idle engine in cold start: 1 minute (I do this till date)
Time to idle engine in warm start: 30 seconds (I do this till date)
Oil used: Motul 3000 4T engine oil 20W50.(I put Bajaj Dtsi Oil just to retain warranty at free service. Used to drain Bajaj Oil after 100 kms and fill it with Motul Mineral Oil)
Drained and refilled oil(no topups) at : 1000 kms, 1500 kms, 2000 kms (Just extra caution).
I got little agrressive now and then, say 1 in every 10 kms. I used to go upto 100 kmph with little agression(may be 0-100 in 20s) and slow down a little aggressively(not recommended by OEM, just my way).

Running-in period over by now.

3) 2000-5000 kms
MAX RPM in any given gear: 8000 (more frequently doing 10k, 10% completely aggressive, 90% calm and humble)
Time to idle in cold start: 1 minute
Time to idle in warm start: 30 seconds.
Oil used: Motul 3000 4T engine oil 20W50.
Drained and refilled at(no topups): 3500 kms.

4) 5000-12500 kms
Ride bike the way I want to.
Oil used: Motul 5100 SS 15W50 oil (This oil made a hell lot of a difference. Bajaj DTSI is just an oil, Motul Mineral is good, Motul SemiSynthetic is better)
Air-Fule ratio screw turnings: Tad less than 3.5 turns(I am sure mixture is burning efficiently now as the RPM needle used to sway left-right a little at 3.5 turns. Had to reduce it just a little to get the needle almost steady.)
Drained and refilled at: 5000, 7500 and 10000 kms.
Engine flush at 5000 and 10000 kms.
Idle rpm cold engine: 1100 rpm
Idle rpm warm engine: 1600 rpm

5) 12500 - till date(22500 kms)
Oil used: Motul 300 V Fully Synthetic 15W50 Oil(Tjis is the best oil. I read some people saying this oil causes slight leak. Its true. But very negligible and ignorable).
Drained and refilled at: 12500, 16000, 19500 and 22000(Had to as I had done two trips in one week; Pune-Bhopal(Pune - Bhopal - Pune Endurance drive) and Pune-Ratnagiri)
Engine flush at 16000 and 22000 kms.
Fuel used: Shell V-Power since 10000 kms.

HAPPY RUNNING-IN.......