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TVS Apache Electrical coversion to full dc with power to run hids all day!

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  • #136
    Originally posted by ATHUL4R View Post
    so i need to coil rewind and buy ape rr so going to FULL DC is a better choice

    Thanks jeanie
    so i need to coil rewind and buy ape rr so going to FULL DC is the only choice
    Even if you do all this, you get only slight improvement with normal 55w/60 bulb than stock 35/35.
    From my experience Full DC conversion to run 55/60 Halo is really not worth the money and effort you put into it. But for HID Full DC is very much recommended.

    Comment

    • #137
      Originally posted by Jeanie View Post
      so all i have to do is solder the 2 copper wires to the black and yello wire in the pic and then feed both of them to ape rr grey wires ? does it matter which wire to which or 1 can connect any to any of the grey wire from ape rr ? also the yellow and black wire in stock wiring as shown in pic look pretty thin . is that ok ?

      i got ape rr for only 1035 as on packet . no extra charge , same part number .
      Solder both ends to the legs posts on the stator for better contacts and durability (make sure that its not connected to body) U can use any thicker wires to take out the coil ends to the APE RR, (thinner wire lower the current) make sure that these wires are going directly to the APE RR without any inter connections. Go through once again the first few pages before making the connections as u can smoke the harness in no time. Re routing of wires to be done carefully.
      Do it Yourself, what so ever, if Possible
      -----------------------------------------
      sigpic
      After Market HID Projector Mod for Pulsar 150
      Flasher Enabled Head Light Flash for Just Rs.1/-

      Comment

      • #138
        Originally posted by ATHUL4R View Post
        @ Jeanie thanks alot for your effort to post images here. because images speaks more than written words.
        hope you will update remaining images step by step.
        1) how many time you use for winding this?
        2) are u doing this alone?


        ONE QUESTION PLEASE ANSWER ME
        I will stay on AC+DC( STOCK) what i need is 55w/60w bulb to install in my CBZ EXTREME 2011.
        will only rewinding faces my needs?
        or i need to fit ape rr?
        Is my stock reflector can hold the heat of 55w/60w?
        Yes only rewind will suffice your needs, you don't need APE RR. Stock reflector can hold the heat of 55/60 on AC but not on DC.

        Comment

        • #139
          Originally posted by sajjt View Post
          Solder both ends to the legs posts on the stator for better contacts and durability (make sure that its not connected to body) U can use any thicker wires to take out the coil ends to the APE RR, (thinner wire lower the current) make sure that these wires are going directly to the APE RR without any inter connections. Go through once again the first few pages before making the connections as u can smoke the harness in no time. Re routing of wires to be done carefully.
          ok so i will need thicker wires from coil to ape to reduce current loss from thin wires right ? will buy those fire proof wires .

          also i have attached 2 pics of both sides of the coil . with arrows on the solder points . i will have to solder 1 end of the rewinding copper wire and next to it the wire which will go to ape rr . same thing on other side of coil. am i right ?

          also is the varnish i bought ok ? had attached its pic .also do the winding looks ok ?
          Last edited by Jeanie; 11-07-2011, 11:01 PM.

          Comment

          • #140
            Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View Post
            Yes only rewind will suffice your needs, you don't need APE RR. Stock reflector can hold the heat of 55/60 on AC but not on DC.
            Unicorn's RR takes entire power from Coil. (There is no charging coil, lighting coil separate) Then the RR regulates 40-45w for lighting and supplies it to lighting and the rest to charging. So if you rewind and use stock RR your charging will improve but not the headlight as the RR is designed to regulate 40-45w.

            Example -
            Stock coil is 125w where it regulates 45w, remaining 80w goes to charging.
            After rewinding if you have 195w, 45w to light and rest 150w for charging.

            &&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&

            Tested the example on friends Unicorn after rewinding with stock RR unit. A 55w bulb cried to glow. After changing the RR to one provided by Ruby it started glowing fine.

            I didn't rewind the coil bcz the juice stock RR provided was sufficient to run HID all day !! But not the 55/60w

            These were your words...
            after getting Karizma you stopped experimenting and forgot everything???-)after all with your guidance post only I converted my Unicorn to Full DC.

            Comment

            • #141
              Originally posted by sandeepcf View Post
              Unicorn's RR takes entire power from Coil. (There is no charging coil, lighting coil separate) Then the RR regulates 40-45w for lighting and supplies it to lighting and the rest to charging. So if you rewind and use stock RR your charging will improve but not the headlight as the RR is designed to regulate 40-45w.

              Example -
              Stock coil is 125w where it regulates 45w, remaining 80w goes to charging.
              After rewinding if you have 195w, 45w to light and rest 150w for charging.

              &&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&

              Tested the example on friends Unicorn after rewinding with stock RR unit. A 55w bulb cried to glow. After changing the RR to one provided by Ruby it started glowing fine.

              I didn't rewind the coil bcz the juice stock RR provided was sufficient to run HID all day !! But not the 55/60w

              These were your words...
              after getting Karizma you stopped experimenting and forgot everything???-)after all with your guidance post only I converted my Unicorn to Full DC.
              I agree. But I heard from a friend of mine that CBZ-X's RR behaves differently and there is no need of RR change. Though its not my first hand experience. I shall try to verify the info once again and will get back. Apologies if its not working !!
              Last edited by Shreeni0403; 11-08-2011, 12:19 PM.

              Comment

              • #142
                @jeanie
                https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

                https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

                https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

                Comment

                • #143
                  Originally posted by Jeanie View Post
                  ok so i will need thicker wires from coil to ape to reduce current loss from thin wires right ? will buy those fire proof wires .

                  also i have attached 2 pics of both sides of the coil . with arrows on the solder points . i will have to solder 1 end of the rewinding copper wire and next to it the wire which will go to ape rr . same thing on other side of coil. am i right ?

                  also is the varnish i bought ok ? had attached its pic .also do the winding looks ok ?
                  Make sure that there's no contact with the stator body with the solder legs before u connect it.
                  Do it Yourself, what so ever, if Possible
                  -----------------------------------------
                  sigpic
                  After Market HID Projector Mod for Pulsar 150
                  Flasher Enabled Head Light Flash for Just Rs.1/-

                  Comment

                  • #144
                    Originally posted by Jeanie View Post
                    ok so i will need thicker wires from coil to ape to reduce current loss from thin wires right ? will buy those fire proof wires .

                    also i have attached 2 pics of both sides of the coil . with arrows on the solder points . i will have to solder 1 end of the rewinding copper wire and next to it the wire which will go to ape rr . same thing on other side of coil. am i right ?

                    also is the varnish i bought ok ? had attached its pic .also do the winding looks ok ?
                    Its looks alright, but i guess it could have been winded in a neater fashion.
                    Okay for the first time...
                    Its okay would do the job.
                    Yes, you can solder this to those two points as it has no interaction to the ground.
                    Now try to put it back and check the voltage readings across the revv range.
                    Congratulations for your coil winding achievement.
                    Giving a lot to a fiero.
                    Expecting a lot from a fiero.

                    Comment

                    • #145
                      Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View Post
                      I agree. But I heard from a friend of mine that CBZ-X's RR behaves differently and there is no need of RR change. Though its not my first hand experience. I shall try to verify the info once again and will get back. Apologies if its not working !!
                      which model mate the CBZ?
                      sigpic

                      Comment

                      • #146
                        what is the proper way of routing all the electrical from battery? Like - the coil rewinding, RR setups are done. Last part is to route all light electricals from battery right? How exactly.
                        I'd stripped down my mods for a troubleshooting (hiccups) and saw that in mine, there was a tapping from the ignition output to the stock lighting circuit. Is this how it is done?

                        Comment

                        • #147
                          Originally posted by lijok View Post
                          what is the proper way of routing all the electrical from battery? Like - the coil rewinding, RR setups are done. Last part is to route all light electricals from battery right? How exactly.
                          I'd stripped down my mods for a troubleshooting (hiccups) and saw that in mine, there was a tapping from the ignition output to the stock lighting circuit. Is this how it is done?
                          Routing the electricals to be done with proper rated relays which is actuated by battery - ignition/battery swtich - relays- load. I am wondering how come u r raising such a silly querry and that too after converting the whole thing DC long back

                          Here's what I've done when I converted my ride.


                          Instead of using 2 SPST relays u can use 1 SPDT relay for dual beam. If u do that, leave the low beam trigger wire open and only the high beam wire has to be connected to the relay power. Connect the low beam load to the relays NC (Normally Closed) pin and connect the high beam load to NO (Normally Open) pin.

                          I don't know why there's a tapping on the lighting wire to ignition system, may be in case of battery issues, it can be a pre caution by stock not to affect the ignition as ur system uses TCI which requires stable DC for better performance. I think u don't have to connect it now as the entire electricals are on full DC, so there's effect in tapping the power from lighting section.
                          Do it Yourself, what so ever, if Possible
                          -----------------------------------------
                          sigpic
                          After Market HID Projector Mod for Pulsar 150
                          Flasher Enabled Head Light Flash for Just Rs.1/-

                          Comment

                          • #148
                            Thank you Sajan. I've not added any relays what so ever... I'll add them when going back to DC. BTW, can you please also give the details of the SPDT relay with a similar diagram. What do I tell the shop walla when buying this thing? Any specific name or specs?
                            For me, its so hard to make sense of the stock wirings. And no one knowledgeable enough to help me. Guess I'll have to do it myself. Will try and go back to DC this weekend.

                            OT: BTW, i've completely stripped my bike of all mods, including reverting back to stock electricals as part of troubleshooting the hiccups. Didnt work. Then this saturday evening, when I took the bike out for a short spin with no air filter attached, suddenly the bike jerked forward and from then, its back to normal power delivery. I guess there was a block in the air input to carb. Put back the K&N filter, no issues. Will have all the air inlet tubes checked.

                            Comment

                            • #149
                              @Sajan bro..... I've done some research on SPST and SPDT relays and now what you said makes sense to me... . Now for the hard part of identifying the stock wirings... GOD help me...

                              The attached image shows the circuit with the SPDT relay, right?



                              Now, where does the lights on switch come? The no light, park lamp, headlight toggle switch...
                              Last edited by lijok; 11-16-2011, 04:19 AM. Reason: Image addition

                              Comment

                              • #150
                                Lijo - You don't need an extra relay if you are going for HID setup. The wiring harness given by Navnish has a relay.

                                Comment

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