Removed the coil again and this time it hell lot of mess bcz last time being over cautious of oil leakage i had tightened the bolts bit more and bolt heads slipped . But finally removed them and replaced the bolts

This is how I ve removed the ground from coil and now am getting No charge/discharge in ammeter between 2000-2500rpm compared to 3500 earlier.

Used a new wire right? And using what load? 100/90 or 60/55?

Used the same wire but disconnected Pulse generator wire from outside

I tested it 5 times to double check that coil power is no where grounded.

Ah !! Still 55/60w

Ok then, test it out with a 100/90 and see. It should work! These do not cost that much.

Cool.. Even if i get at 4500rpm with 90/100 bulb then also not a problem
As I am used to that

Have you explained how to rewind the coil in your thread ?? If not then can you please do it. I thought of rewinding the coil myself.

EDIT - Unicorn stock coil generates 0.125kW/5000rpm. And Uni's coil doesn't use that Coil for any other purpose than charging. So do u guys think I still have to rewind the coil ??

No, I haven't. No one was interested! First try out the 100/90 bulb and see. If you still want to do it, let me know.

Alright, I don't exactly know where I am going wrong ... however here's some points that rise in my head.

If a bike is converted to DC lighting, then would the lights depend on the charge of the battery ? what if the battery is discharged, would the lights work then ?

Currently I have a Highbeam HID + low beam halogen. the HID usually works fine if I am on a highway doing 50+speeds with rpm's above 4000, however in the city the HID goes phutt within 4-10 mins of riding. Earlier I had a mico 55/60W halogen which worked pretty much flawlessly without any battery charging issues.

Now the strange thing is the battery doesnt seem to be discharged. Even when the HID goes off, the self starter, horns work quite as they do when a battery is fully charged. However the HID doesnt. Is this an issue with current supply or the HID kit (ballast or bulb or maybe both) ? If its with the HID should I check the wires and replace them with higher gauge ones

The HID works directly via battery with a switch. However Ignition must be on in order to make it work. Starting of engine isnt required.

Please do explain about how to rewind, I shall try with 90/100w even if not I may rewind.

YES completely.. Better the battery better the light.. Even if battery goes down then lights will glow from the power generated by coil but won't illuminate to its fullest.
At lower rpm's battery won't charge efficiently and so the HID ballast cut's off the power as soon it detects the lower power.

To rewind, the thing to keep in mind is that, we should first rewind a pole completely layer by layer till it is "full" by winding the wire in a particular direction (say clockwise). Now the next adjacent pole should be in other direction (anticlockwise) and so on till all the poles are covered.

Keep in mind not to tear/scratch the insulation anywhere. Also after this is done, cover the whole pole with epoxy glue (araldite) to prevent engine vibrations from causing the wires from rubbing against each other and wearing out the insulation.

About the wire itself, you can go about 2 gauge thicker than original.

Thanks Sajit, ur reply was really satisfying

I know im slightly wrong in going for the 8k HID. The thing is i bought it from dubai for Rs.1200 when i was on a holiday there. It was a chinese mall. And unluckly they dint have any other temp for h4 with High/Low. The sales lady at the shop was trying to convince me for the 8k how much ever harder i tried convincing her for searching for the 6k .

So i dint mind goin in for the 8k as it was cheap and if it dint work or had issues i would just remove and go on with my halogen bulb.

Now wats a APE RR. Where do I source this from ? Also wat did u mean by replacement RR ? Actually i have no idea wat is the RR unit ? Is there one already present in every bike ?

If u bought it for 1.2K for pair or single. Almost all chinese HID conversion kits starts from 15-25USD. If u got a pair, its a nice deal as Dubai is a free port, not much import tax burdens. If u want to buy it from any other OEM or Ebay the shipping charges is the main concern as it will cost you more than the kit cost. usually 30-40$ to India.

Now coming to RR unit, Its Regulator Rectifier Unit, every bike has this to protect your bulbs from over voltage from the alternator and for charging the battery. APE RR means RR from APE PIAGIO 3 wheeler unit, u can get it from automobile shops for 650/ which is used to boost the battery charging rate to support the HID. Am not sure about others as there are people claims that RR swap is not required for the full DC bikes like Pulsar UG4, but I tried that RR also but didnt worked out well and I ended up in APE RR. If yur bike supports the HID without any batt issues, no need to go for RR swap, it should support HID more than 2 hrs continously then u r on right track and no need of replacement. FZ, P220, ZMA are full DC bikes and dont need any of this mod. Hope I cleared everything.

Xenologic, from halo 55/60 must've been AC thats why its not showing any stress on battery. Now the HID is directly powered from batt so low rpms u r not getting optimum output from the coils and hence the batt drain issues on city rides.

DC lighting will give u flicker free lighting on idle speeds if u have a good batt. Shree is right on depleted batt case, but it will light up the halogens not the HID, else, ur alt coils should be powerful enough to lightup an HID. I used to get the HID on form the coils even my batt was too low to honk.

And about the HID's fails to lightup, could be a ballast issue or a wiring issue. Connect it to a big car battery and try, if that still goes off after a certain period, ur ballast can be faulty. Also check for the power wires to the HID, as it can come off from the ballast sockets when the steering takes place.

Thank you all for your inputs
@ sajit, yes the 55/60W bulb ran on AC directly , even now the low beam halogen runs on AC while the high beam HID on battery. I have the coil rewound and the rectifier changed along with it. Was done by someone who specialised in this so the work was good. Will try to check the voltage at the terminals during running.

Will try to check the HID after exams :P right now the bulb in my head is going phutt.

That sounds simple thou its not !!! Will I have to remove the existing windings and do a fresh rewind with thicker wires or solder the edge and continue winding on the existing ??

What gauge wire should I use ?? 18.5 or 19 ?? Where can I get this ?? Also how much meters I will require?? Approx ??

Use fresh wires. But, better to get a old stator coil. Yours look to be in top notch condition to open!

Wire gauge should be thicker than present. Pulsar original was 21. I used 19. So, thats the idea. But, too low grade (thicker wire) will cause problem.

Its available in electrical motor repairing shops. Atleast they can tell you. It is sold by weight. I bought 250gm wire.

And you have to wind very neatly, else you will not get many turns winded. Better ask a motor repairing shop to do this - they should not cost much too.

Abhijeet

We have already checked with Ruby in bangalore who has done rewinding in my bike.. & he has quoted 750 for rewinding without RR Unit.

Our boy shreeni want to try himself as he is DIY Enthusiast