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Immediate help required to bring my XCD 135 to its early glory

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  • #46
    Hello guys,
    the i'm again facing some issues on my bike..but i suspect them to be more of carb tuning relAted issues than anything else.However,I sincerely need your advice.
    1.Start up issue in mornings-The bike comes to life after touching the starter button,but dies soon after,as if its suffocating.Even after warming,i need to give it a little more accelerator and sometimes clutch slip to start moving.However after that,the startups are normal.
    2.When riding,the bike feels jerky during accelerating and real speed build up occurs only After 3k rpm.Thanks to some members here and specially honda_cbf,the issue diagnosed was faulty diAphragm.However i'm facing it again.

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    • #47
      Originally posted by SWIFTSHASHI View Post
      Hello guys,
      the i'm again facing some issues on my bike..but i suspect them to be more of carb tuning relAted issues than anything else.However,I sincerely need your advice.
      1.Start up issue in mornings-The bike comes to life after touching the starter button,but dies soon after,as if its suffocating.Even after warming,i need to give it a little more accelerator and sometimes clutch slip to start moving.However after that,the startups are normal.
      2.When riding,the bike feels jerky during accelerating and real speed build up occurs only After 3k rpm.Thanks to some members here and specially honda_cbf,the issue diagnosed was faulty diAphragm.However i'm facing it again.
      sorry for late reply, my exams are on na
      seems like its lean tuned.
      But also check/clean/change air filter, if its not done recently.
      And about starting problem.. does it happen only in morning? Try starting it first time in noon or after that (in hot temperature) & report back about your bike's behaviour.
      regarding the stalling & need of clutch riding when starting off from standstill.. Try doing it with HALF CHOKE ON and report back.
      Last edited by Honda_CBF; 04-22-2012, 11:54 AM.
      http://www.facebook.com/ateesh.kumar

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      • #48
        Originally posted by SWIFTSHASHI View Post
        Hello guys,
        the i'm again facing some issues on my bike..but i suspect them to be more of carb tuning relAted issues than anything else.However,I sincerely need your advice.
        1.Start up issue in mornings-The bike comes to life after touching the starter button,but dies soon after,as if its suffocating.Even after warming,i need to give it a little more accelerator and sometimes clutch slip to start moving.However after that,the startups are normal.
        2.When riding,the bike feels jerky during accelerating and real speed build up occurs only After 3k rpm.Thanks to some members here and specially honda_cbf,the issue diagnosed was faulty diAphragm.However i'm facing it again.
        Sir, what have you been doing with your bike, eh? So many probs at just 25k kms, gosh!!! My bike runs like new even after 4yrs... (only changed front and rear brakes pads till date, that too at 13k kms) :P

        Coming to your problem, seems to be a lean mixture. Does your bike have a tacho? If yes follow the procedures below:
        1. Ride you bike at ~50% throttle for atleast 15mins (don't just idle but ride...)
        2. Increase idling to 4k (nearly 50% of your redline)
        3. Tune tune tune tune, until the tacho gets steady at a particular RPM no matter how long you're idling it at 4k RPM.
        4. Got the sweet spot? Now turn down the idling to around 1300 RPM & rev till the redline at neutral. The needle should eagerly shoot to the redline & when you cut the throttle, it should return to idling very smoothly/linearly.
        5. Ride for 15~20 mins & redline in each gear (well, almost) to find any faults in the tuning itself. If everything seems crisp then you're done.

        OT: @Honda_CBF, which exam??
        Its the fusion of a two wheeled machine & a human being which creates a true biker.

        Fine me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/krazzykid.abhijeet

        Pulsar spare parts price list (indicative only):
        http://www.scribd.com/doc/42303845/P...re-Parts-Price
        http://www.scribd.com/doc/99085008/Bajaj-180-Pulsar-UG3

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        • #49
          @Honda_cbf
          1.Startup trouble occurs everytime i start the vehicle for the 1st time,irrespective of part of day.
          2.Sorry bro but i dont have a choke on my bike..bajaj had installed a crappy autochoke on this model.
          OT-best of luck for your exams..btw,which exams??

          @Abhijeet

          Bro I'm just a normal rider.Its just the multitude of novice mechanics who screw my bike with their new kinds of settings everytime it goes for a service.

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          • #50
            @ swift,
            find a good mechanic (who knows bajaj bikes) and tell him to increase its pick up a little.
            I guess XCD 135 & DISCOVER 135 uses same carb & jets (just a wild guess) if thats the case then abhijeet can tell you number of turns AFR screw loves to be in
            @ Abhijeet,
            am i right?
            OT : Its my final exam.
            http://www.facebook.com/ateesh.kumar

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            • #51
              @ Honda_CBF, nope, both use different carbs...
              @ Swift, dude, just try to tune your bike yourself, atleast give it a try, its not rocket science anyway.
              Its the fusion of a two wheeled machine & a human being which creates a true biker.

              Fine me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/krazzykid.abhijeet

              Pulsar spare parts price list (indicative only):
              http://www.scribd.com/doc/42303845/P...re-Parts-Price
              http://www.scribd.com/doc/99085008/Bajaj-180-Pulsar-UG3

              Comment


              • #52
                Originally posted by Abhijeet Bhattacharjee View Post
                @ Honda_CBF, nope, both use different carbs...
                thanks for the info mate

                Originally posted by Abhijeet Bhattacharjee View Post
                @ Swift, dude, just try to tune your bike yourself, atleast give it a try, its not rocket science anyway.
                +1 to that. I learned (i guess) because of silly mechanics only :-)
                http://www.facebook.com/ateesh.kumar

                Comment


                • #53
                  Ok guys,thanks for your guidance..Here are some of the observations after numerous attempts.Kindly point out if i'm making any error.
                  1.Like most of you have said,when I try to increase idle rpm before tuning,it never goes beyond 2.5k rpm,even after fully screwing that idle rpm nut.Is that ok?
                  2.Now with the rpm at 2.5k,I rotate the Air fuel screw to lean position.The rpm starts falling and a point is reached where engine threatens to die.Should I stop here or continue to leaner the setting as one more lock is needed before screw stops rotating.??
                  3.Now I rotate back for richer side and the rpm increases.I stop once a constant rpm is achieved and then bring idle rpm to 1400.Is this method correct??

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                  • #54
                    1. That's not normal, you can definitely increase it beyond 2.5k RPM
                    2. Don't concentrate on running in lean, observe that too lean/too rich mixture stalls the engine, the ideal tuning is somewhere between the two extremes.
                    3. The ideal tune will have the highest RPM corresponding to it, you go either ways from this tune & the RPM shall drop, no matter how marginal the drop, there'll surely be a drop.

                    Don't tune at 2.5K RPM because that'll be good for only the low end of your bike, ideally carbs are tuned at 50% of the redline to get the best tune at both the low & high revs.
                    Its the fusion of a two wheeled machine & a human being which creates a true biker.

                    Fine me on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/krazzykid.abhijeet

                    Pulsar spare parts price list (indicative only):
                    http://www.scribd.com/doc/42303845/P...re-Parts-Price
                    http://www.scribd.com/doc/99085008/Bajaj-180-Pulsar-UG3

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Originally posted by SWIFTSHASHI View Post
                      Ok guys,thanks for your guidance..Here are some of the observations after numerous attempts.Kindly point out if i'm making any error.
                      1.Like most of you have said,when I try to increase idle rpm before tuning,it never goes beyond 2.5k rpm,even after fully screwing that idle rpm nut.Is that ok?
                      2.Now with the rpm at 2.5k,I rotate the Air fuel screw to lean position.The rpm starts falling and a point is reached where engine threatens to die.Should I stop here or continue to leaner the setting as one more lock is needed before screw stops rotating.??
                      3.Now I rotate back for richer side and the rpm increases.I stop once a constant rpm is achieved and then bring idle rpm to 1400.Is this method correct??
                      idle rpm not exceeding 2.5k rpm is not at all ok. Get it fixed first & then look for tuning.
                      May be the threads are striped/worn off of idle screw (just my guess)
                      idle should be at least 3-3.5k rpm for tuning
                      http://www.facebook.com/ateesh.kumar

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        The screw maxxed out at 2.5k rpm because the mixture was lean.Iguess I've now sorted out the tuning..fingers crossed for some days.Thanks a lot guys,will keep you informed.

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Originally posted by SWIFTSHASHI View Post
                          The screw maxxed out at 2.5k rpm because the mixture was lean.Iguess I've now sorted out the tuning..fingers crossed for some days.Thanks a lot guys,will keep you informed.
                          ya, too lean mix can cause that but idle will be highly erratic & fluctuating.
                          Fingers & toes crossed here too..
                          http://www.facebook.com/ateesh.kumar

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                          • #58
                            ^^same here bro...:P

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                            • #59
                              Update:-The bike is running perfectly after the tune.Thank you guys...The first startup trouble is also gone now.However one thing is troubling me.For the past two instances of oil chAnge,I'm noticing that the colour of oil which comes out is very muddy in appearance(greyish in color like that of drain).day before yesterday,I put in 10w50 graded CASTROL Power1 Racing 4t full synth which was deep red when put,has now turned brownish.A deep burning smell is also coming from the head of engine.however i'm facing no issues with drive of bike and the engine oil level and viscosity remains constant.SVC fellow told that clutch is gone by just looking at the color of oil.Is it possible??I mean i'm facing no slipping or pickup issues.

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                Originally posted by SWIFTSHASHI View Post
                                Update:-The bike is running perfectly after the tune.Thank you guys...The first startup trouble is also gone now.However one thing is troubling me.For the past two instances of oil chAnge,I'm noticing that the colour of oil which comes out is very muddy in appearance(greyish in color like that of drain).day before yesterday,I put in 10w50 graded CASTROL Power1 Racing 4t full synth which was deep red when put,has now turned brownish.A deep burning smell is also coming from the head of engine.however i'm facing no issues with drive of bike and the engine oil level and viscosity remains constant.SVC fellow told that clutch is gone by just looking at the color of oil.Is it possible??I mean i'm facing no slipping or pickup issues.
                                if you are not facing any clutch slip then dont listen to him.
                                Regarding burning smell & dark colour it may happen with overheating engine (remember you were running lean?) so give it few more days & check things out.
                                Or it may be possible that FS oil (being equal in molecular size) coming past head cover seals & burning there.
                                And about oil colour, FS oils cleans engine much better which makes them dirty, if this is the case then dont worry.
                                Btw, i would be more worried if oil dont change colour.
                                Last edited by Honda_CBF; 04-29-2012, 12:02 PM.
                                http://www.facebook.com/ateesh.kumar

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