You are not supposed to use FS on a new engine for the first 5k km. Better lubrication at such an early stage is bad for the engine.

^^i agree....but i had to take this step on a hit and trial basis...when on mineral oil,the bike was excessively overheating and smell was coming..overheating was understandable for a new engine but smell was something which i could not get.Switch to fs oil has solved overheating but a bit of smell of burnt oil still comes.

@ swiftshashi,
your earlier overheating was because of lean AFR. Oil isn't the culprit.

Update time:

Everything seems fine,;ride,mileage pickup etc everything is fine.However,I went to service yesterday and have a few questions.

1.While tuning the carb,is the 'feel' important or is the number of turns is what we pay attention to??I mean,I had tuned my carb myself,and the bike was great.However,one dumb service advisor just messed my carb again and by the time I could get to the service bay,he had done it.He then smartly said that" your carb was out of tune,it had xx turns,I was trained by BAJAJ to do yy number of turns on XCD 135 model.He increased the number of turns and when rpm rose,he then set the idle rpm at 1400rpm.Did the fool do the right thing??I guess not,because the old problem of jerkiness and explosive like sound from silencer came back..I need your views on his method of tuning.

2.Secondly,those members who know about my case from the very beginning,might know that while tuning,my maxm idle rpm used to go to 2.5k rpm.Now that upper limit has reduced to 2k rpm I had gone to service to attend to this issue only,however that dumba** [sorry mods] service advisor told me that if you tune by my method,you'll get a perfect tune without any need to increase idle rpm.

I'm confused guys,help..Is there an issue with my carb that idle rpm is not going beyond 2k rpm.What is the solution??

OFF TOPIC-Due to all this drama of tuning,I have vowed to get an ECU controlled FI bike as my next ride.Most probably,I'll buy a CBR 150R,but its still 4-5 months away.

feel is the most important but number of turns help one to get "the-wanted-feel"
but also number of turns are not always the "good unit" to measure the setting. And number of turns cant be counted accurately because of the factors such as wear & tear, size & type of screw driver used, engine temperature and many more.
Get that "idle-rpm-limited-while-tuning" problem fixed first (idle screw should be able to increase rpm to near redline) and for the time being set the AFR at what you felt good recently.

1. No. of turns would only give you the best tune only in the ideal case, as in new carbs, new bike which hasn't completed run-in.
2. Try looking to the right side of your carb, from the clutch side. Check your idle adjustment screw (if its worn out). You can also increase the idling RPM by sticking say a match-stick to the throttle body, no big deal.

Precisely,thats what I was thinking.Any ideas bro what could have gone wrong with the carb,because the all the mechs(both of service centre and outside) are clueless and tell me that there is no problem??If you visit any mech in your city,kindly ask him about this,please??Because I'm yet to find a reliable mech here at Ranchi.

Thanks for the great idea of using throttle body,I'll put up a photo of my carb taken at day tomorrow.Kindly judge it whether it needs any attention.Just by looking on the carb,all I can make out is that the heads of all screws(idle rpm,AFR screw and overflow) are fully worn out.

worn screw heads are bad. Get them replaced if possible.
& try to get a close-up pic of idle screw & its threads, i guess its worn out too.

Sure,pics will be up by tomorrow.But I highly doubt that I'll get the screw as a spare.

yeah, me too.
that's why I said "if possible"

Bro can you please elaborate the above mentioned process of sticking a matchstick on throttle body.??

just have a look at the throttle cable where it goes into the carb, now while looking at the carb rotate the throttle, you'll see a 'body' connected to your throttle wire is moving. If you turn this external 'body' by your hand, you'll see that your engine revs higher. Just shove something between this 'body' and the fixed end after opening the throttle & you can tune your bike even without the idling screw.

Trying to find some suitable picture... Will thuumbnail it if found.

Guys,these days,I'm facing a peculiar issue.

1.During 1st starts,the bike starts in 1st go,but suffocates and dies down if 1st gear is engaged.Even after forcefully starting the bike multiple times,the bike feels suffocating and jammed up,before a strong wave of power comes and then everthing becomes normal.
2.Second issue is that during first press of the self,the bike cranks for a second and then dies,however in 2nd try,the self picks up cleanly.Is the issue related to carb tuning,battery,or is it the self that has gone bad??

Thanks

Off-Topic-BTW,the new look of xbhp is fab!!!

Guys,any help???