first issue can be because of lean tune, (or may be dirty air filter) by the way are you using choke? Are you letting your bike idle for at least 15-20 seconds before moving on? Second issue is not a battery problem for sure because if battery ain't able to crank up the motor in first try, it won't be able to crank it up at second try also (reason being voltage going down with every try) check for the improper connections, terminal deposits etc. They do rob battery power. IMO, one should use kicker if starting it, first time in the morning. Also self starter are one of the most robust things it can't go kaput that easily, but self starter sometimes do develop some deposits somewhere (don't really know where this someplace is, sorry) do check with your mechanic/svc regarding this.

As expected,U r the first one to come to my rescue!!!!!!!!

XCD 135 doesnt has a choke,it has something called autochoke,with sensors and all,which seems to work only during summer and rainy season.
No matter how much I let the bike idle,it will show its suffocating nature.Air filters are new.
One mechanic pointed towards a faulty starter relay,can u confirm and elaborate what starter relay is used for??

Relay is just a electro magnetic switch. It reduces load on the switch operated by thumb/finger and wire. So starter relay is a switch which provides current to starter motor and reducing load on other connected electrical things. And yes it can cause starting problems. But your bike's suffocating problem is different its starting issues (i think) also check the spark intensity, it should look blue not red. (but i don't think its a problem) By the way, i'm in ranchi for today..

@SWIFTSHASHI
When one of my bro bought XCD 135, he was having the same suffocating and self starting problem in a new showroom bike.
The self didn't work on the first attempt but it did on the second. Its not a battery or any other problem. I think it may be depend on the piston position. If u use kick, sometimes u'll feel your kick is hard and sometimes soft. Then imagine what would motor do if its hard rotate the crank? It will die. and in the morning always use kick. Because over the night battery looses its power a bit and becomes strong when it charges. Also on cold engine, self starter needs more power because more friction held inside the engine because of the change in the viscosity of the oil, it becomes thicker when cold.. and lighter when hot, so it becomes easy for the self to start the engine. Therefore it is recommended to use kick for the first start.

Regarding suffocation, it is because of AFR tuning. If your air filter and carburetor is cleaned, get your AFR adjust.

@Honda_CBF
If u are in ranchi, then meet him and adjust his AFR.

@HondaCBF
Bro,will you be in ranchi tomorrow??Due to the crappy network issue I was able to log in just now.Sorry.

@Paul.1911
I've replaced air filter,and got the carb cleaned as well.I was shocked to see powdery red particles both in the carb and the fuel tank. Almost half kg of that substance was taken out.The problem is solved almost 70%,and the rest 30% I guess will be solved if the carb is tuned perfectly.

I've become tired of tuning the carb myself.Here's why:-
On a warm engine,I first raise the idle rpm to about 3500rpm and then start tuning the AFR.To my utter shock,the maximum rpm observed during the entire rpm spectrum is on the leaner side(1/2 or 3/4th of a complete rotation from lean side to be precise).Now according to book,I guess I'm right,but practically I'm tuning the bike to the leanest setting possible..If I show it to the service,they just rotate the AFR screw.They have learnt that for XCD they need to rotate for 2.5 turns,and they do that,even without listening to bike's idle characteristics.Now I've left fiddling with those settings,and just carrying on.I had a golden opportunity of showing my carb to fellow biker Ateesh(Honda_CBF),but I guess I've missed it.

Man jamshedpur is not too far u know and i'm also planning for ranchi soon but dont know when.

I dont know whether u have Air screw or fuel screw. For your information, this type of screw is a Fuel screw


and this is Air screw


now the more u open the fuel screw, the more it will become rich and the more u close the lean.
But this is not the case for Air Screw, its opposite, the more u close the more rich it will be.

And if i guess, u might have fuel screw.
But the tuning process for both is same. You just need to look for the highest rpm. You have the tacho so there is no problem for you. Just do as u do, close the screw completely and start opening it slowly.
Now when u reached the highest peak. Reduce the ideal to 1400 rpm. Now reduce the rpm by 100 by turning the AFR screw to the leaner side until the rpm reached 1300. Now tune your ideal screw to your desire level.
This slightly leaner tuning will give the perfect mileage and best for city riding.

AFR cannot be adjust in just few attempts. Its needs practice practice. Every bike have its own setting, u need to find yours.
Now its winter time so its bit difficult to adjust. Do it in the afternoon. Dont leave your bike ideal for 10 mins. Just drive it for 10-15 mins @ 6-7 kms and then adjust. It will give u better response.

Bro,I've the fuel screw...almost all four strokes I've seen have this fuel screw only.As far as I knkw,2 strokes have air screw.
One clarification,before tuning,is it compulsory to raise the idle rpm??To which level??

Re: Immediate help required to bring my XCD 135 to its early glory

no old splendor, cd-dawn, joy, passion have air screw on it.
You can increase the rpm up to 2000 or 2500.

@ shashi bhai, I'll be on ranchi again in Jan 2nd week . Lacking of time these days.. so wasn't able to meet you. . Raising idle rpm has only one purpose, i.e. To locate fine changes when one is tuning the carb. A experienced guy can tune without raising the idle, but for starters raising the idle is must. I like to raise it around 3k rpm atleast. And what was that red powdery stuff? Was that rust? Or was that something from adultrated fuel?

@RockingRider
No,the bike suffocates only during the first start,or when the engine has become cold.Once properly warmed up,It feels smoother and power delivery is linear.When warmed up,the only issue is that it doesnt start at first self.

@Paul.1911
My bad,actually an article on **********site lead me into belief that air screw are for 2 strokes.

@HondaCBF
Would love to meet you this time,although our college is starting from 2nd Jan,I'll be at home from 12th of Jan as I'm appearing for SCRA which is on 20th Jan.SO it appears that I'll be available when you visit ranchi this time.
That reddish powdery stuff was adulteration from the fuel pump.
I would also like to share an info,which I think will help increasing your knowledge database.You might remember that earlier in this thread I complained that I was unable to raise rpm beyond 2000rpm(last page),It was due to cut o-ring in the carburettor. A small rubber circular gasket sort of thing,which the mechanic labelled as O-Ring,was damaged,which made no effect of rotating the idle rpm screw.

Are you sure on that ? Keep in mind that it could be fine rust particles too, I have seen it clogging the fuel filters and carburetors in old bikes.(Depends on the quality of tank)

Eliminate all possible points of air/vacuum leaks. Did you clean the carburetor after cleaning the petrol tank,if not Then check the pilot and main jets for any clogging.
After replacing the carburetor o-ring,is the AFR screw responding ?

Reply to this and I will let you know what needs to be done next.

^^
As far as I saw,there was no sign of corrosion inside...The insides of the tank was spanking clean,and while touching the powdery substance,it felt clayey/muddy.
The carb and fuel pipe lines were cleaned after draining out the entire 7ltrs of fuel...I don't know whether replacing the O ring now helps increasing the rpm,but I saw that the mechanic was lowering the rpm from 4k rpm.I dont know how he managed to increase upto 4krpm mark,because I've seen mechanics using various tricks to do the same.

A new Issue

I sometimes used to feel that engine is choking for a moment,same like you feel when you hit reserve,and it gives a jerk.I also let our fellow Xbhpian Honda_CBF ride my bike for any issues,and that time the issue was not found.However with time,I find this issue to be seriously increasing.The problems are-Lot of Misfirings during startup at first start,Chocked up feeling and power loss if the bike is allowed to cool even for half an hour,that too under sun.
I have a strong feeling that ignition coil is the culprit..I need advice of the veterans here,that can it be an issue??
off topic-I've got the permission to go for a new bike,and have zeroed on Honda 150R!!,but will be retaining XCD,as it was my first bike(and love).

Coil can be of problem but according to me it should create those problem all the time..
lets see what others have to say..

try talking to svc head mechanic and also shoot a mail to Bajaj. BAL is really good with customer support bro.


And that day was shear shock man, you bike was in super awesome condition, well, thats what it seemed..