Junk yard salvage is an econo option, as far am concerned, I was not so sure about its performance, its a trial so I opted for junk to save money. U can also choose if u dont want to go for a new one. Ask for the battery charger for APE 3 wheeler, use all the terms u know such as RR unit, regulator etc. to make them convince what you want. They might ask u the new or old model, any model will do, only the socket diff. Dont give them morethan 150-250 as the new one will cost u 650/ and test ur bargain ability. Am sure that you are not a rookie in this like u've got the lenses U can go for the minidoor also but a bit higher price, but onething is sure this small thing is quite sturdy as its bolted to the outer side of the chassis on these vehicles.

Bargaining is not a problem. I can start with 50rs also
Thanks for that info.

Sreeni, am not sure about Uni's electricals, but this thing will work with any of the bike as the general electrical systems are almost same with AC+DC. I assume yours is a single phase one. First you have to disconnect the stock RR connector as you dont need this if u succeed. Now pull out the AC wires of the lighting coil from the socket coming from the coil, (In my Pulsar one wire was grounded so if yours, check for that with grounding check[thanks to Abhi who pointed this me] to get a full wave bridging, connect it to a high capacity RR, in my case, I used a 3 wheeler single phase RR, so you can also use the same I hope, new one will cost 600/- I got it for 150 from junk yard. Its got 4 wires, AC input wires will be 2 having the same colours and the ground will be black and +ve will be red or yellow. Bolt the RR to the body along with the ground wire, connect the AC wires to the AC out from the stator coil, connect the +ve to the ingnition switch wire for the battery on/off. Before starting disconnect the battery -ve cable and make sure that all lights, what ever possibile should be off as we havent measured the output volt.Start the engine and make the idle speed @4K which will be our normal riding rpm generally and measure the voltage across the battery charging leads. If its something around 13.5-14.5, then measure the amps coming from the charging cable. It should be around 5-6A from a normal 60W coil which is morethan enough to feed a 9AH with HID. Mine was a 100W so the output was 8A, now am very generous in using my HID and the spots for the testing for the past 2 days. My batt stays cool!!


Sudharma, Generally there are very few variants in terms of watts available, 25W (very rare) ,35 and 50W. HID will consume only 50% of the conventional halogens consumption. HIDs will take a good amount of current at the time of warming up, after stabilization ie; when it comes to full brightness the current draw reduces to one third of it. Its got 2 wires for the bulb, one is for ignition which operates at 21000volts!!! almost as same as our TV's CRTs using and the other one is for after warming up which operates at 85V!!. Imagine from a nutshell sized battery it has to squeeze out this much of power, no wonder our batteries got fried with a healthy charging rate. Mine is a 35W so initial consumption will be something around 8-9A then it will come to 3.3-3.5A after a few seconds of warming. There's a batt saving tip, the more you switch on and off the more current will be drawn from the batt.

You can refer these links to get an overall idea about the HID Xenon bulbs.
Xenon Optics High Performance HID Conversion Kit | Brighter and Safer road ahead
Automotive lighting FAQ - Headlamp HID bulbs
Xenon HID Conversion Kits 3000k 6000k 8000k 10000k
Headlamp - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Oh Bro, that was amazing and worth to read and make it practical. I am also one of the HID BATT VICTIM and at last found something I can adapt. Really are u ok with the batt issue? I also want to do the same?

Abhi and Sajan u guys are impossible, at least both u guys made something impossible. I have asked every auto mechanic and got the similar answer you all got IMPOSSIBLE. But u guys made it. Would love to have u guys contacts?

Info on HID was worth to read, we all know some thing about HIDs but this is something authentical, COOL. Thanks 4 the post.

thats really a lot of info regarding HId......i have some questions...
1.which brand to go for..? For karizma, which has a 188W alternator, which one will be best suited.??
2. whether hid can be use for lower as well as higher beam or just lower???
3. what about using PASS, whether it'll affect anything???

Jai, u need to read these forums at least for the HID forums fully, surely u'll get an overall awareness in these and I promise u its worth to read.

There are lot of brands available, mostly chinese are cheaper and the quality? No questions? In my case, So far so good, am using an HID kit on my car for the past 2 years and no issues, and my bike is running on a bixenon HID for the last 3 months. but there are cases on the other side too. reputed brands are Philips,Osram are very very expensive and comes in pairs for 4 wheels not meant for bikes to my knowledge.

How to use the HID and all at ur discretions as there are options with HID with Halogen combinations, HID for both H/L , HID for single beam and two HID bulb for H/L etc. Since ur bike is a full DC one there will not be any batt drain issues, I would suggest u to go in for a bixenons (H/L with a single HID) as this will be more lasting than the others anyway. But if u r a city commuter, its better to go for a HID+Halo combi will save u from cops by switching it to halo when u r asked for a stop. If u are going for HID Low beam and Halo High beam(thatz the std) u'll''ve the pass option provided ur pass switch will enable the high beam, there are bikes with passs swtich but the it'll change with the settings with the H/L switch.

This is HID+Halo Combi
[ATTACH]14554[/ATTACH]
This one is Bixenon telescopic
[ATTACH]14555[/ATTACH]

Keep in mind that frequent switching will considerably reduce the bulb life even though its life span is rated better than the nornal halogens. Thats why I suggested the bixenons (bit expensive than the others), where bulb is always on only the solenoid is making the bulb to act as H/L, thus the frequent switching is avoided.

Hope u r clear about ur doubts.

please make this a bit more clear

1). HID+halo combination are they available in chinese make, are they the same HID which just needs change of filament,...

2) how much price difference for a HID as compared to HID+halo(lo beam)

are they the same HID which just needs change of filament,...

whats this mean ya? I didnt get u?

Dear, your FZ16 is all DC bike right? Here we have AC+DC electricals, which means AC is for lighting and DC is for batt charging for other requirements such as starter horns etc. So very little current is fed to the batt from the RR. A DC bike uses the full alternator power to a RR and its fed to battery only so the charging rate will be higher than the AC+DC bike charging.

Its because of your ignorance you are suggesting for a relay, a relay is taking off the load from the stock switch which is not capable of handling a huge current. And believe me, relay is also a switch only but it acts with the help of magnetic contacts and its not producing any power from it. Its a very long misconcept people are carrying over years person to person. Its all from these street side mech are giving this much of wrong informations passing by saying with cut outs, box, etc... By using a relay the stock swtich is powering the relay coil only which is considerably very very low and once the coil is activated a heavy duty contact is engaged to make the circuit close or make the equipment functional. Almost all of the HID kits are coming with a relay within the control box as its good for the life of the HID too.

I hope I have clarified your doubts and hope I didnt hurt you.

No dear, you haven't hurt me at all. I just suggested what everybody does, & yes the kit that I bought came with the Relay & I think it does make a difference, else it would have come without the Relay. The technical details I'm not aware of, so kindly shed some more light on it. One more point if it is not useful, why do the car electricians recommend it for any extra horns or even for 100/ 90 lighting.

CHEERS,
G D

someone has said"half knoweldge is worst"

i think similar thing has happened with me too..

BTW i wanted to say that whether in a single beam HID(consider it as H7 bulb for example), now in this HID can we change type from H7(for example as we are changing bulb thingy(another example) in HID) to H4 type..

forgive me if i messed it up totally

No dear, you haven't hurt me at all. I just suggested what everybody does, & yes the kit that I bought came with the Relay & I think it does make a difference, else it would have come without the Relay. The technical details I'm not aware of, so kindly shed some more light on it. One more point if it is not useful, why do the car electricians recommend it for any extra horns or even for 100/ 90 lighting.

CHEERS,
G D