Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0


Cool will keep them in mind, thank you.

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Hmm though it would be best to change the chain soon, but thanks will keep that in mind.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Correct. Not only that, if permanently attached on this bike, the main stand will actually keep touching the chain once the chain looses its tightness naturally over time, result - catastrophic.

Regards.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Check out the shops in your city, if its not available ask your friends or relatives to buy it for you and courier. It will still be cheaper than the showroom.
Yes, you can keep it attached, but there will always be risk of the stand scraping due to the low ground clearance. And its more dangerous if it scrapes when you are leaned into a corner. Loss of balance at such time is very bad. You can do a test run for some weeks in daily commuting and short tours with the stand attached. If you feel it is safe to keep it that way, continue. If it scrapes every time you go near a speed breaker or lean a bit more on corners, remove it and attach it only when needed.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Oh I see then, though I doubt that RX 100 parts are available in Guwahati, the main plan was to keep it attached when I go touring.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

The V2 and S still have the mounting points for the main stand. It is advisable not to get it fitted from the dealer, instead go to any spare part shop and get the main stand and pin of the Rx100. it costs less than 200 rs instead of 900 rs from the showroom. It is a direct fit and I have been using it for more than 4 years on my V2. It is also advised NOT to fit the stand permanently, as it reduces the ground clearance and may scrape the road while cornering or while going over speed breakers. install it whenever you need to do maintenance and cleaning and then remove it and store it after the job is done.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Any updates after using tapered roller steering bearings ?

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

ah I meant that R15S single seat.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

V2 or V3?
I have a V2, May 2017 model and it still gets the option of main stand.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Does the newer models still come with the option of a main stand? I recall seeing the first gen coming with the main stand as an option and then though it was discontinued, the mounting point was still present, could anyone confirm the same?

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Hii,

Thank you very much for the suggestion. i went to the serivce center again. they informed me that the noise should be due to clutch bell play. no information regarding the engine harshness. probably i will give my bike to them tomorrow to fix it. i am sure that i will get my bike only on Tuesday. i will inform them to check the tappets once again.
btw: can you suggest any service centres in bangalore?? i used to go to the one in kengeri.

Thanks,
Santhosh

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Yes, usable. No need to replace. Also they are damn cheap.

AFAIK, there is some process that the coolant is sucked from the coolant reservoir only when the radiator coolant level drops, i.e. low coolant pressure in radiator will help to suck the coolant from reservoir. And that time, only fresh coolant goes into the radiator, old coolant is not going to reservoir from radiator.
So, the process is not cyclic, rather unidirectional. That's why the radiator coolant will not mix with the reservoir coolant. You need to drain/flush/fill separately.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Thank you brother.

Are the rivets reusable?? Or do I have to replace them with new ones?
Isn't the radiator and the reservoir connected?? why do we have to flush and refill the reservoir separately? They should be connected internally and the old coolant should go from reservoir to radiator and out of the drain hole. Am I missing something?

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

1st: Open the rear seat, then under seat cover with philips screw driver and slide towards rear to lift that, then take 5mm alien key to remove the front seat.

2nd: Remove the panels with 4mm alien key (2 screws), 1 screw driver (1 screw near tank) and push the rivet middle button with 4mm alien key, it will unlock the rivet and you just need to pull it from your nail or some thin card, that's it.

3rd: Remove the side panel as well as bottom/under cowls (near engine) to access the coolant drain bolt with 4mm alien key and screw driver (to remove the side panels you need to remove the headlight assembly top black plastic covers as well, and dont loose the collars between the black screws).

4th: Remove the drain bolt with 10mm ratchet wrench or spanner (not ring type, otherwise will shave off the screw edges). Don't loose the copper washer. It will start draining very slowly. Place a big mug or small bucket just near the drain hole and remove the radiator cap. It will start draining faster just after removing the radiator cap.

5th: Wait for liquid to drain completely (until droplets), then fill with cold clear water (preferably distilled water) to pass thru the drain hole. Wait until it becomes clear.

6th: Then close the drain hole with the copper washer & drain bolt and don't tight it much. Fill the radiator with fresh coolant just upto the hole near the radiator cap opening and close the radiator cap.

7th: Drain the previous coolant from the radiator reservoir with a clear rubber hose and a 50-60ml syringe (buy both from medical stores) to suck the coolant from the top cap (You need to pull the reservoir rubber cap carefully otherwise it may damage the inner black hose). Fill it with water to further clean the old coolant out from the reservoir and again drain it completely.

8th: Top up the reservoir with fresh coolant (upto high level or more, nothing to worry about filling extra, it will drain to the bottom if overflows). Fix the rubber cap and START!

9th: Now after 1 minute, open the radiator cap to check any coolant level drop or coolant leakage from the drain bolt. If it is okay then close the cap. Wait for the radiator fan to switch on (normally will take 10minute in summer). Then STOP the engine and fix all panels. Your job will be DONE!

P.S.: Experienced mechanic will say to flush with 50:50 distilled water:vinegar solution and run the engine and drain it, to completely flush from the engine coolant paths, but in r15, that is not required untill the coolant is not replaced in 3years or more. Replace it in 12-18months, you don't need to flush more often.

Coolant volume required 800ml approx (or less).

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Guys, I'm planning to flush my radiator and put in new coolant on my bike. I have seen many tutorials and am fairly confident that I will manage it. I want to ask about how to remove the plastic rivets from the bottom of the tail section (right under the seats). As per my understanding I have to remove the carbon fiber looking panel to access the coolant reservoir, and to remove that bit of panel I need to remove the plastic rivets. Can someone please let me know the correct procedure of removing these plastic rivets. Also, are they reusable, or do I have to get new ones to replace them. Some times rivets are for one use only and they break while opening, if that is the case here, I want to keep spares with me to replace them. Any other advise that my respected brothers might have for me regarding the coolant change procedure is highly valued and respected. Thanks in advance.

Re: Yamaha YZF-R15 version 2.0

Exactly same thing happened to me. Then I adjusted the tappets to be exactly 0.10mm (intake) & 0.20mm (exhaust) with filler gauge, and the engine roughness or harshness got minimized a lot. In first service, the service guy didn't adjust them appropriately and bike was stalling while pulling the clutch in traffic. Again, in 2nd service, they made it in such way that the engine was rattling like a sewing machine. Now, it is just perfect. Yamaha service in Bangalore is utterly disgusting.