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  • #76
    Originally posted by Samarth 619 View Post
    Guys, I have recently been requested to tell more about sprocketing via PM by someone, since I had a 40 tooth sprocket on my Pulsar, sometime ago when my college was on the Jaipur Road highway.

    So, I want to make this topic here on Sprocketing. My inputs will be as follows :--->

    1. P180 UG3's speeds on speedo, on 40 tooth & 46 tooth Rear sprocket @ different rpms. (with Stock being 43 tooth)

    2. I have got myself a copy of Rolon Manual which has Front & Rear sprocket sizes, Drivechain Size, no. of bolt holes in sprocket, etc. and a lot of such useful data for almost all bikes - from Enfields to RX100s, from P200 to Splendor. I want to use this topic to publish that data, when it is ready in Word, etc. format ... Right now, I have the manual Photocopy only.

    I'll have to prepare these 2 datas before I can post them.

    Kindly support this initiative of mine. As soon as topic is made, I'll start posting things I promised. (Read: 1-2 days)
    Hi samarth,
    I own a cbz 2000 model. The cbz classic. Presently my bike does 110km/hr. I have polished the head and the gasket assembly and have used three bond rubber paste to seal the engine. I also have a k&n filter fillted to the air filter box,because of which 0-100kmph is no problem at all. It has a good torque. I have replaced the clutch plates recently though. Whenever i am above 5rpm and i am changing gears the bike's front tires lift up a bit and fall back. now to the actual topic, I did go through this thread and have realized the diffrence it makes. I have a 46T rear socket, Could you please suggest me jus how much the spocket Teeths has to be reduced to power up the high end without lossing much of the low end? And which spockets would actually fit in? I am looking for the cbz extreme 43T but dont really knw how would that result? I am looking to cruise at 100kmph at 6k rpm. Please suggest me something? Thanx....
    "At speeds of 160 Miles Per Hour or say 257.44Kilometer Per Hour You realize the actual speed of your life, Life is Supersonically Fast, Don't miss anything, cause you know it wont come back to you again"

    Comment


    • #77
      You haven't said 110 on speedo or actual measured. What RPM does it hit easily in 5th ?

      To do 100km/h at 6000 RPM, you need around 16.6km/h per 1000 RPM , up from stock CBZ's 13.1x km/h per 1000 RPM. That's a 25% taller set up for a 36 or 37T sprocket, the CBZ will lose its top end with that tall gearing. I'd recommend nothing taller than a 42 . That will give you 14.4km/h per 1000 RPM, 100km/h around 7000 RPM.
      Man will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time he will pick himself up and continue on.

      Comment


      • #78
        Modding

        Originally posted by Ricci View Post
        You haven't said 110 on speedo or actual measured. What RPM does it hit easily in 5th ?

        To do 100km/h at 6000 RPM, you need around 16.6km/h per 1000 RPM , up from stock CBZ's 13.1x km/h per 1000 RPM. That's a 25% taller set up for a 36 or 37T sprocket, the CBZ will lose its top end with that tall gearing. I'd recommend nothing taller than a 42 . That will give you 14.4km/h per 1000 RPM, 100km/h around 7000 RPM.
        Its 110 on speedo, its hits 6000 RPM easily and then keeps on stressing till 8000 n den stops over there. At 8000, I am getting speeds of 110km/hr on the speedo,Dont have any idea about the correction.

        I guess I would be loosing the low end and mid range with taller gear ratios? Correct me if i am wrong?

        Which Rear sprocket would you suggest for 42T one,I mean which Bike has 42T rear socket at rear which would be direct fit to my cbz??? And if I put in CBZ xtreme's 43T What speed it would give me per 1000RPM?

        Secondly I am getting around 10.5K at crank that is when the bike is in neutral and in standing position.
        "At speeds of 160 Miles Per Hour or say 257.44Kilometer Per Hour You realize the actual speed of your life, Life is Supersonically Fast, Don't miss anything, cause you know it wont come back to you again"

        Comment


        • #79
          anyone??? post #76

          Comment


          • #80
            Originally posted by maxx View Post
            Its 110 on speedo, its hits 6000 RPM easily and then keeps on stressing till 8000 n den stops over there. At 8000, I am getting speeds of 110km/hr on the speedo,Dont have any idea about the correction.

            I guess I would be loosing the low end and mid range with taller gear ratios? Correct me if i am wrong?

            Which Rear sprocket would you suggest for 42T one,I mean which Bike has 42T rear socket at rear which would be direct fit to my cbz??? And if I put in CBZ xtreme's 43T What speed it would give me per 1000RPM?

            Secondly I am getting around 10.5K at crank that is when the bike is in neutral and in standing position.
            If your bike isn't cracking 8000RPM, there isn't any notably more power than a stock bike. Taller gearing simply changes the mechanical leverage of how engine's torque is used , trading acceleration for speed, you don't change the engine's output itself. Pulsar 150 classic has a 42T sprocket, P150 owners can confirm if correct. 43T will give you around 14.1km/h per 1000 RPM.

            Getting 10000RPM in neutral is no indication of power mods working, in neutral it's hardly got any load to oppose it. The real measure is what RPM is pulls in the gears, top gear being the most relevant to determine how much more speed is obtainable. A bike that's unable to reach peak power RPM in top, is geared too tall . A bike that significantly exceeds the peak power RPM in top is geared short.
            Man will occasionally stumble over the truth, but most of the time he will pick himself up and continue on.

            Comment


            • #81
              Originally posted by Ricci View Post
              If your bike isn't cracking 8000RPM, there isn't any notably more power than a stock bike. Taller gearing simply changes the mechanical leverage of how engine's torque is used , trading acceleration for speed, you don't change the engine's output itself. Pulsar 150 classic has a 42T sprocket, P150 owners can confirm if correct. 43T will give you around 14.1km/h per 1000 RPM.

              Getting 10000RPM in neutral is no indication of power mods working, in neutral it's hardly got any load to oppose it. The real measure is what RPM is pulls in the gears, top gear being the most relevant to determine how much more speed is obtainable. A bike that's unable to reach peak power RPM in top, is geared too tall . A bike that significantly exceeds the peak power RPM in top is geared short.
              I'll give it a test 2morrow and will let you knw the actual results. thanx once again yaar!
              "At speeds of 160 Miles Per Hour or say 257.44Kilometer Per Hour You realize the actual speed of your life, Life is Supersonically Fast, Don't miss anything, cause you know it wont come back to you again"

              Comment


              • #82
                hey guys i am new to sprocketing.
                are there any aftermarket sprockets for Thinderbird and Bullet Std.with more teeth.
                are they good enough?

                how do i increase the low end torque of my bike.
                i love to ride in the hills.

                how do i go about it.
                thanks
                aj

                Comment


                • #83
                  Anyone takes into consideration on how sprocketting may effects chain & wheelbase however small they may be.

                  Example:
                  Bigger front (Rear remains same**) = better topend.
                  This configuration will use more of the chain length by virture of having to go around a larger circle. In order to compensate chain slack, One will have to decrease the wheelbase by a small margin. Just for illustration, if front has very big front sprocket almost same size as rear, the chain will not be long enough to go around unless rear sprocket/tyre is moved close to the front.

                  Smaller rear (Front remains same**) = better topend.
                  This configuration will increase the wheelbase by a small margin and use less chain length. opposite to above example.

                  (**I know one can change both at the same time to magnify the effect)

                  In stock settings, my bike has more room to move the rear tyre backward (increase wheelbase) than forward. So If Im to change sprocket for better topend, I'd rather fiddle with the rear sprocket. Also I may not have to worry that my chain may not be long enough. Is this sound reasoning?
                  Last edited by kaynmantis; 09-03-2009, 04:24 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #84
                    Originally posted by kaynmantis View Post
                    Anyone takes into consideration on how sprocketting may effects chain & wheelbase however small they may be.

                    Example:
                    Bigger front (Rear remains same**) = better topend.
                    This configuration will use more of the chain length by virture of having to go around a larger circle. In order to compensate chain slack, One will have to decrease the wheelbase by a small margin. Just for illustration, if front has very big front sprocket almost same size as rear, the chain will not be long enough to go around unless rear sprocket/tyre is moved close to the front.

                    Smaller rear (Front remains same**) = better topend.
                    This configuration will increase the wheelbase by a small margin and use less chain length. opposite to above example.

                    (**I know one can change both at the same time to magnify the effect)

                    In stock settings, my bike has more room to move the rear tyre backward (increase wheelbase) than forward. So If Im to change sprocket for better topend, I'd rather fiddle with the rear sprocket. Also I may not have to worry that my chain may not be long enough. Is this sound reasoning?
                    kaynmantis, Yes this sounds intresting as whatever you told about is the actual science behind sprocketing.
                    "At speeds of 160 Miles Per Hour or say 257.44Kilometer Per Hour You realize the actual speed of your life, Life is Supersonically Fast, Don't miss anything, cause you know it wont come back to you again"

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      Originally posted by kaynmantis View Post
                      Anyone takes into consideration on how sprocketting may effects chain & wheelbase however small they may be.

                      Example:
                      Bigger front (Rear remains same**) = better topend.
                      This configuration will use more of the chain length by virture of having to go around a larger circle. In order to compensate chain slack, One will have to decrease the wheelbase by a small margin. Just for illustration, if front has very big front sprocket almost same size as rear, the chain will not be long enough to go around unless rear sprocket/tyre is moved close to the front.

                      Smaller rear (Front remains same**) = better topend.
                      This configuration will increase the wheelbase by a small margin and use less chain length. opposite to above example.

                      (**I know one can change both at the same time to magnify the effect)

                      In stock settings, my bike has more room to move the rear tyre backward (increase wheelbase) than forward. So If Im to change sprocket for better topend, I'd rather fiddle with the rear sprocket. Also I may not have to worry that my chain may not be long enough. Is this sound reasoning?
                      i might sound diiferent but speaking expirienced it personaly.

                      keeeping the Rear Same:

                      Increase front: increase in Acc and Dec in TopSpeed
                      Decrease front: Decrease in ACC and Inc in TopSpeed

                      Increase rear: increase in Acc and Dec in TopSpeed
                      Decrease rear: Decrease in ACC and Inc in TopSpeed

                      Front 1 teeth reduction equals to the same as of 3/4 teeth in the rear!
                      same the vica versa..

                      Simple Science involved is:

                      Reducing the teeth's in the rear,increases the revolutions, Decreasing the same, Decreases the Revolutions..
                      and vica versa
                      Last edited by L.P.; 09-03-2009, 08:29 PM.
                      " Nothing Z Forever,Except D Change "

                      Spiti ||Binsar || Lansdowne

                      Click Here to Subscribe to the xBhp Delhi SMS Channel
                      Click here to See my Photography Work

                      sigpic

                      Comment


                      • #86
                        L.P. got it absolutely correct. Simple science is involved in this!
                        "At speeds of 160 Miles Per Hour or say 257.44Kilometer Per Hour You realize the actual speed of your life, Life is Supersonically Fast, Don't miss anything, cause you know it wont come back to you again"

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          LP bro, you are right, It's just plain physics, and one can imagine it in mind.

                          Originally posted by arjun934 View Post
                          hey guys i am new to sprocketing.
                          are there any aftermarket sprockets for Thinderbird and Bullet Std.with more teeth.
                          are they good enough?

                          how do i increase the low end torque of my bike.
                          i love to ride in the hills.

                          how do i go about it.
                          thanks
                          aj
                          See, you can't increase "low end torque". Torque is an engine characteristic, and depends on rpm its is ridden in.
                          So, when we need more torque we downshift to lower gears, so that rpm is raised. Only this raising in rpm will give you torque..

                          Do Keep in mind these things:-->

                          1. Re-gear only if you feel your 1st gear is too tall. Otherwise, Gearing would be pointless, as you can always choose lower gears to pull the load in hilly areas... I hope you got my point.

                          2. Any of these smaller Indian Commuter Bikes might not have the chain pitch to match the Enfield setup. However, you might try out sprockets from different other enfields...
                          I'm not sure about them, as I never owned Enfields. Just try them out... Good luck.
                          ---
                          Brotherhood, Rules, Freedom. Xbhp.
                          Indian riding = Alertness, Anticipation and Adjustment.

                          Comment


                          • #88
                            A small correction there..

                            For either of the actions: increasing front sprocket size or reducing rear one, the gearing becomes taller. The result is reduced acceleration and higher top speed.

                            Vice versa: Reduce front sprocket size or increase rear sprocket size: shorter gearing = increased acceleration and reduced top speed.

                            Also the final reduction ratio or secondary reduction ratio tells you the relation between the number of revolutions the front makes for each revolution of the rear. Say the ratio is 15/45 (thats 15 teeth to the front and 45 to the rear) meaning 1:3 meaning for every 3 rotations of the front, the rear rotates once. Now reduce the front sprocket teeth to 10 while keeping the rear at 45. The ratio now is 1:4.5. Which means for every 4.5 rotations of the front sprocket the rear turns once. So the bike builds up acceleration quicker but red-lines at a lower road speed in each gear. Meaning lower top speed.

                            Take it the other way round and increase the front sprocket teeth to 30. The ratio now stands at 2:3. So now for every 3 rotations of the front sprocket the rear turns twice. Imagine doing 60 at say 5000rpm in the 15/45 case. Now you'd do 120 at the same rpm (provided the engine makes all that much power)
                            Thanks

                            Originally posted by maxx View Post
                            L.P. got it absolutely correct. Simple science is involved in this!
                            ^^ I am getting that Notion, Maxxx.. ..
                            How Simple it is that you wanted to convey.. LOL!
                            Last edited by L.P.; 09-04-2009, 09:34 PM.
                            " Nothing Z Forever,Except D Change "

                            Spiti ||Binsar || Lansdowne

                            Click Here to Subscribe to the xBhp Delhi SMS Channel
                            Click here to See my Photography Work

                            sigpic

                            Comment


                            • #89
                              I guess what Akshay told is correct.
                              HH Karizma (Current) || CBF Stunner PGM-FI || Honda CB Unicorn Dazzler
                              Honda Aviator || Kinetic Flyte || Kinetic Blaze || HH Splendor

                              Two ZMAs, 9 Days in Western Ghats

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                              • #90
                                L.P. What I wanted to convey you conveyed just that. Anyways you are a sprocketing genius. You know sprockets better than any 1 else.
                                "At speeds of 160 Miles Per Hour or say 257.44Kilometer Per Hour You realize the actual speed of your life, Life is Supersonically Fast, Don't miss anything, cause you know it wont come back to you again"

                                Comment

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