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Last few posts were great! Made me hook to the thread.
Bike at 19,000Kms, Recently started noticing a sound which comes while revving hard. Something like a metal clanking sound below engine bay, only when I revv instantly, clanks couple of times. During smooth acceleration, it seems to be absent. Service representative told there is no tapet noise as well which means no need to check valve seating and such minor clanking sound is normal.
Other than this sound, no other issues or any signs of other faults. Everything seems normal, compression test couple of thousand Kms ago seemed good. What should I be checking for identifying the source of the noise or is this really normal?
Check your belly pan clamps and bolts. A loose belly pan mount (the steel plate that mounts to the engine) if it's loose or the cowl bolts itself are loose, you'll hear mild jingling sound or clanking sound as you mentioned. Do have a check of the mounts and radiator guard.
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
Check your belly pan clamps and bolts. A loose belly pan mount (the steel plate that mounts to the engine) if it's loose or the cowl bolts itself are loose, you'll hear mild jingling sound or clanking sound as you mentioned. Do have a check of the mounts and radiator guard.
Cheers!
VJ
Belly pan and radiator guards are perfectly fine. I tightened them myself and made sure they are not rattling. Not sure what sound this is, but hard to record it as well as it happens only during hard acceleration.
Belly pan and radiator guards are perfectly fine. I tightened them myself and made sure they are not rattling. Not sure what sound this is, but hard to record it as well as it happens only during hard acceleration.
Do check your crash guards. My roomie's Duke 200 was rattling the same way and after a thorough check-up, found it to be crash guards on the left side which had it's screws missing. That could do potential damage upon prolonged usage.
Belly pan and radiator guards are perfectly fine. I tightened them myself and made sure they are not rattling. Not sure what sound this is, but hard to record it as well as it happens only during hard acceleration.
Don't bother and observe for a few days, primarily to see if the sound is increasing. Try to record if possible, at least by revving the bike in idle or when parked, if you can hear the sound, it's probably something loose. If you hear when riding, it can perhaps be the chain sometimes -- off slack or too tight. Keep your observations posted.
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
Do check your crash guards. My roomie's Duke 200 was rattling the same way and after a thorough check-up, found it to be crash guards on the left side which had it's screws missing. That could do potential damage upon prolonged usage.
Yep. Checked. I replaced the stock Allen bolts with grade 12. 9 bolts long back as they tend to break frequently. They are as tight as they can now.
Don't bother and observe for a few days, primarily to see if the sound is increasing. Try to record if possible, at least by revving the bike in idle or when parked, if you can hear the sound, it's probably something loose. If you hear when riding, it can perhaps be the chain sometimes -- off slack or too tight. Keep your observations posted.
Cheers!
VJ
It does not appear to come when idle. Only when the gear is engaged and when revv harder. Chain slack sound is too different from this sound I'm referring to. Will observe it for some days and see if it increases or not.
It does not appear to come when idle. Only when the gear is engaged and when revv harder. Chain slack sound is too different from this sound I'm referring to. Will observe it for some days and see if it increases or not.
I'm too having the same issue for about 1 month now, it happens only when accelerating from lower RPM.
Re: KTM Duke 390 - Ownership Reviews and Experiences
Front brake issue has come back to haunt me again! MC was changed, brake was bled twice but all in vain. It works well for 80-100kms and then its back to square one.
I need to use four fingers to pull the brake lever and only then the brake engages. Earlier, only two fingers were enough. Heck, even my 32 year old RX100 brakes better than my five year old D390.
The lever travel is just too much and once, for a split second, the lever didn't come back!
MC changed, fluid changed, bleeding done. What else do I check?
It feels better when I tie a velcro to brake lever and leave it overnight. But ofcourse, thats only a temp solution.
A lone amateur built the ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic...
Front brake issue has come back to haunt me again! MC was changed, brake was bled twice but all in vain. It works well for 80-100kms and then its back to square one.
I need to use four fingers to pull the brake lever and only then the brake engages. Earlier, only two fingers were enough. Heck, even my 32 year old RX100 brakes better than my five year old D390.
The lever travel is just too much and once, for a split second, the lever didn't come back!
MC changed, fluid changed, bleeding done. What else do I check?
It feels better when I tie a velcro to brake lever and leave it overnight. But ofcourse, thats only a temp solution.
It's time to check your caliper piston and piston seals. Faulty piston seals would cause sponginess and saggy/grabby brakes. The piston should come in and out smoothly. If we have faulty seals or dust accumulation in the caliper, this hinders the piston movement and causes grabby and saggy brakes. Also a worn front brake pad would mean excessive piston travel which would result in spongy brakes. Secondly, air in line, improperly bled system would definitely have air in line can bring this saggy symptoms after a while.
1. Check your front caliper piston seals.
2. Check your brake pad wear.
3. Rebleed the system.
Worse case, it can also be a faulty master cylinder piston. But check this for now and keep your observations posted.
[MENTION=16543]Skanda[/MENTION] and Iman Jaffer, the sound you guys might be experiencing can also be due to faulty clutch basket, which has developed play. That clank sound can in fact be caused by the basket rivets getting lose over time and causing play when suddenly accelerating and not when accelerating slowly. Solution is to replace the clutch basket. Clicked to me now. Nevertheless, keep your observations posted.
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
It's time to check your caliper piston and piston seals. Faulty piston seals would cause sponginess and saggy/grabby brakes. The piston should come in and out smoothly. If we have faulty seals or dust accumulation in the caliper, this hinders the piston movement and causes grabby and saggy brakes. Also a worn front brake pad would mean excessive piston travel which would result in spongy brakes. Secondly, air in line, improperly bled system would definitely have air in line can bring this saggy symptoms after a while.
1. Check your front caliper piston seals.
2. Check your brake pad wear.
3. Rebleed the system.
Worse case, it can also be a faulty master cylinder piston. But check this for now and keep your observations posted.
[MENTION=16543]Skanda[/MENTION] and Iman Jaffer, the sound you guys might be experiencing can also be due to faulty clutch basket, which has developed play. That clank sound can in fact be caused by the basket rivets getting lose over time and causing play when suddenly accelerating and not when accelerating slowly. Solution is to replace the clutch basket. Clicked to me now. Nevertheless, keep your observations posted.
Cheers!
VJ
You're a savior! This is exactly what might be happening. Just read through issues with Duke clutch basket on KTMForums and I didn't even knew what clutch basket is and I seem to have issues with clutch frequently. Got the cable changed recently as well. Do you think this requires a urgent fix or is it fine if I run for 1K or 2k Kms with this condition?
It's time to check your caliper piston and piston seals. Faulty piston seals would cause sponginess and saggy/grabby brakes. The piston should come in and out smoothly. If we have faulty seals or dust accumulation in the caliper, this hinders the piston movement and causes grabby and saggy brakes. Also a worn front brake pad would mean excessive piston travel which would result in spongy brakes. Secondly, air in line, improperly bled system would definitely have air in line can bring this saggy symptoms after a while.
1. Check your front caliper piston seals.
2. Check your brake pad wear.
3. Rebleed the system.
Worse case, it can also be a faulty master cylinder piston. But check this for now and keep your observations posted.
@Skanda and Iman Jaffer, the sound you guys might be experiencing can also be due to faulty clutch basket, which has developed play. That clank sound can in fact be caused by the basket rivets getting lose over time and causing play when suddenly accelerating and not when accelerating slowly. Solution is to replace the clutch basket. Clicked to me now. Nevertheless, keep your observations posted.
Cheers!
VJ
Thank You Vijay, I will try a different SVC this time and report back.
A lone amateur built the ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic...
You're a savior! This is exactly what might be happening. Just read through issues with Duke clutch basket on KTMForums and I didn't even knew what clutch basket is and I seem to have issues with clutch frequently. Got the cable changed recently as well. Do you think this requires a urgent fix or is it fine if I run for 1K or 2k Kms with this condition?
The sooner the better Skanda. Clutch are high stress components due to the beating they take from the power. The sooner it's checked and replaced, the better peace of mind later on. Strongly recommend you to change the basket, and the plates depending on when it was last replaced.
Cheers!
VJ
Once upon a time, a guy asked a girl 'Will you marry me?'
The girl said, 'NO!'
And the guy lived happily ever after and rode motorcycles and watched sport on a big screen TV, went fishing and surfing, and played golf a lot, and drank beer and scotch and had tons of money in the bank and left the toilet seat up and farted whenever he wanted.
The sooner the better Skanda. Clutch are high stress components due to the beating they take from the power. The sooner it's checked and replaced, the better peace of mind later on. Strongly recommend you to change the basket, and the plates depending on when it was last replaced.
Cheers!
VJ
Plates were never replaced. Stock one from factory and have fun 19K Kms. What's the usual lifespan (Kms) for the clutch?
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