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Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
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Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
Thanks Bro.. can I try Motul fully synthetic engine oil? does it suits for my Yamaha FZ Version 2?Originally posted by Ajay Krishna View Post
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Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
For reducing emissions and increasing fuel economy. Honda throttle is the only FS 10w30 I know.Originally posted by #bpk View PostFor old honda engines also recommended grade was 20w 40, don't know why nowadays they recommend 10w 30. Getting 10w 30 fully synthetic oil is PITA [emoji28]
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Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
For old honda engines also recommended grade was 20w 40, don't know why nowadays they recommend 10w 30. Getting 10w 30 fully synthetic oil is PITA [emoji28]Originally posted by Shashank K R View PostFor the older FZ (v1) and R15, 15w50/20w40 was recommended.
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Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
For the older FZ (v1) and R15, 15w50/20w40 was recommended.Originally posted by #bpk View PostYamaha recommends 10w 40 isn't it.
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Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
Motul 51000 15W50 Semi Synthetic Wich Makes The Engine A Lot More Smoother And Better When Compared to Mineral Oil.Originally posted by Karthik Vp View PostHi Guys..
My bike is now 24k old..
Anyone suggest me a well balanced engine oil other than yamulube?
For modarte city use and occasianal touring?
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Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
Hi Guys..
My bike is now 24k old..
Anyone suggest me a well balanced engine oil other than yamulube?
For modarte city use and occasianal touring?
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Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
RPM sticking when motor is hot is due to an Air Leak/Running Lean if all other variables have been checked.Originally posted by Rajdip Saha View PostI am recently facing an issue, when the engine heats up in stop and go traffic the rpm gets stuck at 3k and slowly comes down to idle. The rpm swiftly rises and falls above and upto 4k but stops at 3k and gradually falls. I have changed my accelerator cable about a year ago and the accelerator cable is completely fine & has normal play.
When the engine is cold the fall from 3k rpm to idle is faster compared to warm engine. What can be the possible reason for this issue
Do a WD40 Air Leak test, it's available on YouTube. Once you find the culprit replace it, most probably it will be the manifold.
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Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
Which engine oil u using, if it's the yamahalube mineral then count that as 1st factor. Considering that the engine is getting hotter than what's normally acceptable.Originally posted by Rajdip Saha View PostI am recently facing an issue, when the engine heats up in stop and go traffic the rpm gets stuck at 3k and slowly comes down to idle. The rpm swiftly rises and falls above and upto 4k but stops at 3k and gradually falls. I have changed my accelerator cable about a year ago and the accelerator cable is completely fine & has normal play.
When the engine is cold the fall from 3k rpm to idle is faster compared to warm engine. What can be the possible reason for this issue?
Here is the video
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Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
Yamaha FZ v3 spotted testing.
Source- https://www.team-bhp.com/news/scoop-...n-yamaha-fz150
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Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
I am recently facing an issue, when the engine heats up in stop and go traffic the rpm gets stuck at 3k and slowly comes down to idle. The rpm swiftly rises and falls above and upto 4k but stops at 3k and gradually falls. I have changed my accelerator cable about a year ago and the accelerator cable is completely fine & has normal play.
When the engine is cold the fall from 3k rpm to idle is faster compared to warm engine. What can be the possible reason for this issue?
Here is the video
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Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
Yes the ralco knobby tyre is specially designed for offroad.Originally posted by Sumazure View PostYeah, its overkill given the capability of the tyres vs the max capacity of the bike. Mostly it was used in all the 600cc + bikes. I will check the price for ralco. In another thread I read that the ralco isn't good in wet conditions. But works nicely in dry gravel and broken roads.
If you are not a hardcore offroader go for street tyres which I mentioned above. You can do a bit of offroading on them too and also won't compromise on dry or wet grip.
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Yes there is glare but only on high beamOriginally posted by Sumazure View PostDid you get the lights aligned after fitting. The reflector assembly is designed for the regular lamps and dont focus the led light properly. Instead they have a diffused glare when seen from the front. Its excessively glaring at night to an extent that I get momentarily blinded when a oncoming vehicle has aftermarket led lights.
Compared to manufacturer provided led lights, the aftermarket lights suffer from poor focus of the light beam. A mix of lens assembly and light power mismatch. The low or high beam doesn't seem to make much difference and are equally glaring. Although all these glare issues are faced by the oncoming vehicles. The new vehicles especially the cars have manufacturer provided led lights which are better focussed in the low beam mode and doesn't blind the eye.
I have adjust the headlight, look properly at the car and the objects behind the car
In low beam the seats inside the car are not visible whereas in the high beam it is visible.
Vehicles in the opposite sides will only be affected in high beam.I have tested it thoroughly and adjusted the headlight in accordance.
The led is designed by keeping halogens in mind. In low beam two leds facing upwards light up and in high beam a led in the bottom lights up.
It doesnot have beam pattern as of halogens but the beam it provides is adequate.
A video is attached in the post you may watch it.The high and low beam is more prominent in the video as compared to the pictures.
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Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
Yeah, its overkill given the capability of the tyres vs the max capacity of the bike. Mostly it was used in all the 600cc + bikes. I will check the price for ralco. In another thread I read that the ralco isn't good in wet conditions. But works nicely in dry gravel and broken roads.Originally posted by Rajdip Saha View PostI doubt that anyone has put the tyres you mentioned on their fz. Its a mere stylish commuter bike and these tyres are simply overkill for this bike and are very expensive too.
140/80 would be a very tall tyre and will surely touch the mudguard and the bike will get very tall geared and will be very sluggish in the lower rev band. Up size up to 140/70 or 150/60 is ok, still the bike will get tall geared but will be quite usable and would directly fit too.
If you are looking for off-road knobby tyres you can go for ralco speed blaster 140/70 or 160/70. People going to ladakh on their dominar & ktm use this tyre. Its cheap too.You can get it in local market.
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If you want something for grip and on road use you can check out michelin pilot street radials or mrf masseter both come in 140/70 size.Other cheaper alternatives are mrf zapper s 140/70 which I use and ceat zoom xl.
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Re: Yamaha FZ16 version 2.0
Did you get the lights aligned after fitting. The reflector assembly is designed for the regular lamps and dont focus the led light properly. Instead they have a diffused glare when seen from the front. Its excessively glaring at night to an extent that I get momentarily blinded when a oncoming vehicle has aftermarket led lights.Originally posted by Rajdip Saha View PostFinally upgraded to led headlight . Got the nighteye leds from bangood.
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Build quality of the led is very impressive, and seems to be very sturdy too.
The stock dust cap can be fitted on these leds.
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High& low beam
Here is a video for the demo of beam pattern, sorry for the quality as my phone's camera is not that great so it may seem a bit dark.
The camera is not doing proper justice to the light as it is brighter in real life compared to the pictures.
These are way better as well as brighter than the stock halogen.
The only con is that as leds emit pure white light these are pretty useless in foggy conditions.
Hope they last long, will further update my experience after using extensively. Till now initial impressions are great.
Compared to manufacturer provided led lights, the aftermarket lights suffer from poor focus of the light beam. A mix of lens assembly and light power mismatch. The low or high beam doesn't seem to make much difference and are equally glaring. Although all these glare issues are faced by the oncoming vehicles. The new vehicles especially the cars have manufacturer provided led lights which are better focussed in the low beam mode and doesn't blind the eye.
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