Starting off with the coneset, the Himalayan comes with tapered roller bearings, they stay put just as you would on any normal motorcycle. The bike being heavy, and the braking load concentrated on the front would mean the coneset getting mildly loose at times with a KHAT sound during braking. Getting the T stem slack adjusted in that case solves such an issue. The black bar ends that do come with the loaded Sleet edition and the handle cross bar are a must have. They are extremely well built and they do reduce some vibrations on the handlebar when compared to the stock blocks, strongly recommend the weights along with the handle cross bar, helps reduce handlebar flex.

It's good to hear someone accepting Motul is a better oil than LG, good for you. Keep a good rapport with the SVC Manager and it goes a long way. Good luck, enjoy your ride.

Cheers!
VJ

It was a rather funny conversation actually. I told him that I'd like to use another engine oil of the same grade as recommended by RE, and that I'm making it clear before the purchase so as as to avoid hassle I told him I understand that they'd prefer me using the company oil. He smiled and said, "of course, I'm here to do business".
Yes VJ, I will buy the aluminium bar end weights along with the black aluminium handle bar. It's written in the company website that the accessory handle bar isn't compatible with the stock bar end weights. Also I look forward to your inputs, and the rest of the members here on the journey of my ownership experience.
Regarding the cone set issue, there is this youtuber whose channel goes by the name 'leuheanrede'. He suggested using sand paper on the T-stem area underneath the nut bolt. His theory was that due to the part underneath the nut being powder coated, it slips over time. Removing the powder coating makes it all metal contact and hence reduces the frequency in which the nut gets loose. I'll try it out on mine when I get the Himalayan. It's rather fun watching his videos.
It's really tough to wait it out once one has made a decision regarding a purchase. Especially one as beautiful as the Himalayan. I plan on getting PPF done on the tank the day I get the bike. Any idea what it should cost approximately? Have a good day people!

2021 Himalayan LEAKED

Yup, it seems the news is all around. Good to see some improvements, well, what and how much? Yet to be seen. The component I sorely miss are the knuckle guards, RE should definitely make it an OE one rather than an accessory. If my eye sight is good, seems the calipers have been blackened so ar the exhaust can heat shields. Let's see.

Cheers!
VJ

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hello guys . happy new year
here is the guard i had bought in Sofia ( Bulgaria) last year .
Made from a SW MOTECH stuff with better steal ... Hope i might go back there : very nice people

varunaFRANCE ,it is not visible

PPF varies according to the company and the gloss level of the said PPF.
I have installed XPEL's Stealth PPF (gives a satin look to matte paint) on my snow white 2020 Himalayan.
I had asked them to wrap my front and rear fender, the tank and the side panels. This costed me 17,600 (without taxes) in Obsessive Compulsive Detailing in Chennai.
Would i recommend satin finish ?
Yes, since the bike looks fancy now.

Hi, guys. Wanted to get your thoughts on the right crash guards/bars for the Himalayan. I have been pondering over it for a while, and there seem to be two main designs – 2-point mounts and three-point mounts. My main dilemma is between the original RE crash bars which are two-point mounts (https://youtu.be/i8dm-UEinzc?t=182) and the three-point mount systems like Zana and A4 moto designs (https://youtu.be/6p725pUzgko?t=123). The main difference besides the number of mounting points is that the Zana/A4 ones go through the chassis of the bike by placing an iron rod through the body.

I am unsure about which ones are better. I have heard that the two-point ones bend easier so are better as absorbing the impact. But given how soft they are I think they would only absorb little force before bending all the way and then transferring the rest to the chassis and mounting points anyway. Besides it seems that the three-point mounts would have a better chance at disseminating the impact between three points. Also in the 3point mount design the bars on both sides are basically interconnected via the rod which goes through the body, so there only one real mounting point to the cassis, can that mean that the impact transmitted directly to the body would be less? As of now I am slightly leaning towards the A4 Moto guards.

Do you guys think that the design element of installing the bars through the chassis of the motorcycle can be risky or can caused damage to the chassis in any way, say my imparting more torque in case of a fall?

Lastly, I recently dropped my bike trying to climb a hill, and caused a dent in the tank. I have complete coverage under own-damage, do you guys think I should claim the insurance? I am not really worried about the loss of no claim bonus. How difficult do you think it would be to claim it? My intention is to get the tank replaced, otherwise it isn’t worth claiming the insurance just for repairs. Do you think an inch long and a centimeter-deep dent can be repaired? I am thinking of replacing it as I think if I just repaint it, the original paint being gone, it will eventually end up giving way to rust.

I have been having similar questions to yours and still cannot firmly say one is better than the other.

I agree that the crash guards with the two point system seem excessively soft. I once dropped my bike from standstill and the crash guard had bent so much that I had to replace it.

I still think that the two point system is probably better for crashes. The best scenario in a crash would be to dissipate the energy away from the rider and critical portions of the bike. As the two point crash guards easily bend, after taking the first impact, they will not be transferring a lot of energy to the chassis of the bike. In fact, beyond a certain force, they would break off the mounting points. You would notice that even if the bars themselves are thick, at the mounting point, it is fairly thin. That is probably a good thing.

Now, we can try to think about crash guards with three mounting points, especially with a rod going through the chassis. This connecting rod will give extra rigidity and make the crash guard and the bike a tight unit. This is probably not what we want.

Imagine that you are riding, you slip at a corner and you are sliding forward. In addition to the impact on the ground, there will be a force acting on the crash guard parallel to the sliding bike due to friction trying to bring you to a stop. This parallel force will cause a torque force at the mounting point. Since there is a rod going through this mounting point to the crash guard on the other side and the guard on the other side is secure with two other mounting points, it will counteract the torque force via the connecting rod. So you will have pushing pulling forces acting on this connecting rod. So if this rod is going through the chassis, there is probably some strain caused on the chassis. What if this strain is transferred to the welded points of the chassis?

Having said this, I think there is some crash guard design I saw for the himalayan where the rod does not go through the chassis , but actually is exposed and goes under the bash plate. This probably a better design as it avoids the chassis.


Hope this helps.

Regarding the dent in the tank, I would recommend u to stick a sticker off ur choice on the dented area, so it wouldn't be noticeable. I don't think it's possible to claim insurance for dent in tank, that's what my service center told me.
If you come across any one who does Paintless dent removal (PDR), then u can try that

The 10000km service of Safeena was done last week-all routine stuff-oil change,air filter cleaning,sparkplug clean,nut bolt tightening etc-rear brake pads were replaced with new OE ones- - the rear passenger footpeg was broken and the dealer did not have it in stock-the dealer will change the front cone set bearings under warranty as and when they receive it in stock-have also ordered a spare clutch cable,front chain sprocket and will change them also as preventive measures.Rest all Okay and Safeena is plugging on smoothly .

Election day off, coupled with a few parts availability at the right time meant it was the right time for the Hima, which was overdue.

Though not a tough job, having the right tools and parts help. Should help DIY-ers on how to replace the engine oil of your Himalayan in your home.

Parts required:

New Oil Filter 1 Nos
New Oil Filter Cover Gasket 1 Nos
Drain bolt copper washer 1 Nos

Step1 & 2
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1. Start off by warming up the engine, this helps the oil to be less viscous. This process helps especially when you live at places where ambient temps are less than 19 deg C. Case in point I live in Ooty, hence the engine was fully "warmed" up before draining the oil.

2. Tools required: 21 mm ratchet with extension and 8 mm T handle or 8 mm 1/4 ratchet set. I have used a T as you can see from the image.

21 MM ratchet with an extension to remove the main drain bolt. Extension helps in great leverage and easy torque.
8 mm T or ratchet to remove the smaller bolts of both the oil filter cover on the right and the drain cum strainer cover bolts on the left.

In the image below, you can see the two 8 mm bolts on the left and right, and the main drain bolt 21 mm in the middle.

Note: Always remove the main drain bolt first, drain the oil. Then remove the 8 mm bolts to access the strainer. Removing the 8 mm bolts directly will result in a terrific mess.





Step 3.
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After removing the drain bolt, tilt the bike towards left to make sure the engine oil smoothly flows into the drain pan. You can see the mess it had created due to me dropping the drain bolt due to the heat of the oil and hence the mess below. Oil is hotter than what the engine feels to touch. Once drained, remove the two 8 mm bolts holding the strainer cover as discussed above, removing this results in access to the strainer which is kept on the paper, as you can see in the image below.



A closer look at the strainer. Gotta say, pretty impressed with the muck filtration. 101% clean. Throughly surprised and impressed. No wonder, RE topped the charts in clean manufacturing. You believe it when you see it. Well, I gotta say I witnessed it today.



A more closer look. Nope, nothing. Absolutely not a grime. Happy soul to say the least.



A closer look at the drained oil. Quick insight about the oil, the bike was lubed with Motul 7100 10w50 then and now. Though performance was good, Motuls always have a tendency to become watery. No complains here, the oil served for more than 4k without a fuss with occasional hard shifts here and there, which is a sign your oil is used up.




Moving over to the right side of the trouble. Here we undo the three 8 mm bolts to access the oil filter.



Pretty neat oil filter to say the least. Again no complains here.



Pro tip: Always make sure you replace your oil filter irrespective of when you change the oil. Oil filters are cheap and they help your engine last longer, cleaner and the pros outweight that laziness to go to that ATM machine. New oil filter goes in along with new oil filter cover gasket ( that triangle gasket). Oil filter cost Rs. 99 and the triangle oil filter gasket is Rs. 10. Yes, you read that right. I bought a pack of two and it was Rs. 10 for two. So, parts are cheap, ain't they! Moreover with an RE, you definitely need peace of mind.



Pro Tip: Make sure you pre-lube the oil filter before installing. My practice is to dunk the filter for a few seconds, immediately install it back inside the recess to where it belong. Helps during start up. Here's me dunking it in!


Process 2
========

The refill process. RE recommends 2 liters of engine oil every consecutive oil change, which was followed religiously. Make sure you replace the copper washer for the drain bolt.

In the name of science, I wanted to know how much does the oil sight window show per one liter of engine oil filled, and here is the result. This was helpful in many ways, helps us to get an idea as to how much oil does the bike actually have after parking overnight with the bike on the center stand.


Here's the bike's sight window after pouring in exactly 1 liter of fresh oil after draining every ml of possible old oil, the best I could.

1 liter being poured in.



Sight window after pouring in exactly 1 liter of fresh engine oil.



In goes another one liter (Making it two liters)



Tada! That's full two liters of fresh engine oil, with the oil filter pre-lubed and the bike on the center stand and that's how the sight window looks. Satisfying! That's how it all looks after everything's cleaned and filled in.





PRO TIP: And last but not the least, make sure you take additional 15 mins to clean the portico, so that you don't get poisoned for lunch by wifey later.

You wanna ride that thing, don't ya!




Ride safe! Hope it helps.

Cheers!
VJ

Mr Grey completed 12k kms!!!
MIne is a 2020 bs6 himalayan.
I am fed up with Royal Enfield SVC.
The 3rd service is done and I have to tell them to get it checked and inspect!
They haven't checked the brakes, the forks, the chain.
They just change the oil, oil filter and air filter! JOB DONE!!

The experience so far!
1. Changed the rear suspension under warranty. The suspension lacked rebound!

2. Bike runs good, no issues with the bike. Issue is with the SVC guys, I had to tell them at every service to check the valve adjustments as it starts to sound really bad when the bike is hot. You can hear the valve being too loose.
​​​​​They are like, "sir, valve bilkul okay hai, iski awaaz hi aisi hai" .
The valve i got it checked and adjusted from kerala. The SVC here is better than the Delhi ones atleast.

3. I am thinking about switching to a good engine oil, previously used a motul 5100 after the second service. But i didn't find anything better. The gear shifts were bad. Engine getting hot.
The liquid gun was running cooler than the oil, maybe i have got a fake motul from Amazon. So i changed and put back the drained liquid gun.
​​​​​​What do you guys suggest? Liqui moly, motul or Castrol. I will be buying it from offline stores only.

4. The CONESET! The handle will be tight all of a sudden. Had to regrease them. That too i asked them to check when I went for a service.
​​​​​​They said the handle is fine, I had to show them. I guess they are only interested in paid service.

5. The Engine noise, I hear strange krr krrr noises from top of the engine or around the front portion when i accelerate under load or when the bike is hot! The engine sounds sweet when the bike is cold.
But when the bike climbs that RPM. sound is vanished.

6. I am comparing my old cast iron bullet to himalayan. Even though they are world's apart.
Both are different motorcycle.
​​​​The smoothness of that old enfield is what i miss because i have been using my dad's enfield for the past 6 years.
The engine will be still smooth even if its tooo hot, no change in the smoothness.
Mind you, the cast iron is known for the heat it produces. 😂
But in himalayan, once the bike is used extensively in traffic or when it's ridden on a hot sunny day. The engine get rough, too much friction.
​​​​​​Maybe the liquid gun oil is the main culprit here.

I think I need to ditch RE service centre and work on the bike on my own, using a good manual. I have cleaned the evap unit last week only by the help of the thread which was posted above.
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Safeena surprised me a few days back on the way to office-there is this long curved flyover with extremely bumpy tarmac surface on my way to work-on both my erstwhile Duke390 "Blor Betty" and my current Harley XG750 "Tera Chorinja" ,i routinely hold up speeds of 85-90kmph when rounding the curve- that day morning i happened to glance down on Safeena's speedo while midway through the curve and was pleasantly surprised see the speedo needle upward of 80kmph -gave a good thank you pat on her tank as a mark of appreciation.Guess we are both now reasonably comfortable with each other. On my current A220 "Red Riding Hood 2" which i hardly ride these days ,i don't remember seeing upward of 80kmph ever.

Got the front cone bearing changed under warranty at 10425kms today with the OE SKF 30205 bearings-also got the front fork oil changed-rs450 for the fork oil + rs374 labour=Rs824 bill for the front end today.The steering has lightened considerably and the front forks dive substantially lesser on braking. The rear passenger footrest is on order but in the meantime got the Bullet standard left rear footrest fitted as a jugad to be changed when the original comes.

B7ACKTHORN ,try filling 1.7ltr once and feel the engine just respond faster and the gears get creamier- have experiend the 2ltr thing earlier (done by the dealer) and hence know the difference. You can bet that extra 300ml whirring around the engine creates extra parasitic drag- now even the REH manual is updated to 1.6 or 1.7ltr refills- and if you don't like the results with 1.7ltr oil,you can alway pour in 300ml more.