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**nightfury_rider** · 12-09-2020, 12:04 AM

Thanks for the inputs guys. Made up my mind to buy the Duke 250. Currently in my hometown, will be making a purchase once I move back to Mumbai.

As a parting note on the topic, had the RE after sales service experience been better or even average, would've gone for the himalayan. They've not been sincere or professional and have billed me 4k-5k+ on almost all occasions (serviced every 3000 kms). My TB350 does do 105-110, but the vibrations take a toll hence u can't cover a longer distance in one day.

Will post pics!

**Ritabroto** · 01-09-2021, 05:08 PM

Hi,
I have bought the Duke 250 & got the delivery on 7.01.21. This bike came as a surprise to me, I must admit. I have started to learn motorcycle with RE thunderbird. The rides in Duke250 is pretty immersive & fun. Some points which I wanted to get ideas from you guys are-
1. The idle RPM is 2000.. I hope after first servicing they will lower it a bit right?
2. Rear brake lacks bite.
3. According to the manual- I shouldn't go beyond 7500rpm during the first 1000KMs. I should stick to it right?
4. Any other points I need to consider during the run in period?

Thanks guys..

**kiran2508** · 01-09-2021, 05:51 PM

Originally posted by Ritabroto View Post

Hi,
I have bought the Duke 250 & got the delivery on 7.01.21. This bike came as a surprise to me, I must admit. I have started to learn motorcycle with RE thunderbird. The rides in Duke250 is pretty immersive & fun. Some points which I wanted to get ideas from you guys are-
1. The idle RPM is 2000.. I hope after first servicing they will lower it a bit right?
2. Rear brake lacks bite.
3. According to the manual- I shouldn't go beyond 7500rpm during the first 1000KMs. I should stick to it right?
4. Any other points I need to consider during the run in period?

Thanks guys..

1. There is no idle adjustment screw in Fi system unlike Carb bikes, as its a closed loop system. Idle rpm is controlled by the ECU using inputs from Temp sensor, TPS, O2 sensor inputs. But yes you can set the TPS to have lower initial value and play around with throttle cable slack to decrease the high idle rpm. But it's always recommend to run the bike rich AFR due to given high compression ratio of KTM's. A lean AFR causes more wear to inner cylinder walls.

2. Its by design due to how ABS works on rear brake in pulses, the bike has enough bite in SuperMoto mode (rear-ABS off), so much that your bike will fishtail and lockup instantly. You can try it out in safe closed surroundings on non-public roads at slow speeds.

3. Yes, always.

4. NEW BIKE RUNNING-IN Dos and Don'ts Thread ->https://www.xbhp.com/talkies/motorcy...-don-ts-thread

**B7ACKTHORN** · 01-09-2021, 11:27 PM

Originally posted by Ritabroto View Post

Hi,
I have bought the Duke 250 & got the delivery on 7.01.21. This bike came as a surprise to me, I must admit. I have started to learn motorcycle with RE thunderbird. The rides in Duke250 is pretty immersive & fun. Some points which I wanted to get ideas from you guys are-
1. The idle RPM is 2000.. I hope after first servicing they will lower it a bit right?
2. Rear brake lacks bite.
3. According to the manual- I shouldn't go beyond 7500rpm during the first 1000KMs. I should stick to it right?
4. Any other points I need to consider during the run in period?

Thanks guys..

1. Idle RPM and heat will be a wee bit higher during the initial run in period. Once the free services are carried out and engine oil replaced, progressively the engine will bed in and get smother.

2. Rear brakes on almost most of the bikes, lacks feedback and bite. Give it some time to bed in, if not remove the pads, glaze then with sandpaper and install them back. Helps.

3. Yes follow it, but don't follow it judiciously. An engine is best set when run at varied RPMs and speeds, not at a constant RPM and constant speed. Varying the speed and RPM without needless redlining helps engine bed in sooner and in a good way.

4. Pretty much all the above. Make sure to be present when they replace the oil, and make sure the oil level is always the right level before you exit showroom.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

**Ritabroto** · 01-12-2021, 10:35 AM

Thank you for the inputs. I took my bike to a service station to have a look at the rear brake. They have also admitted about the lack of bite.(They used separate brake pads also to see if the factory fitted brakes have some problems or not). Initially, they thought some dirt is causing the low bite so they cleaned & used sandpaper also. I must say the braking has improved but still I feel it is not at its prime. However, they told me to give it some time and observe. Let's see.

**msuthar25** · 02-24-2021, 03:09 PM

My fuel-cap water drain pipe is clogged, the water stays accumlated and have to soak it out with a cloth. any pointers which side is the drain pipe located? I am guessing i need to open up the side fairings/plastics to find it and re-route it if possible

**kiran2508** · 02-24-2021, 09:05 PM

Originally posted by msuthar25 View Post

My fuel-cap water drain pipe is clogged, the water stays accumlated and have to soak it out with a cloth. any pointers which side is the drain pipe located? I am guessing i need to open up the side fairings/plastics to find it and re-route it if possible

You need to remove tank and seat, It connects with battery drain pipe and exits near the Rear Suspension area.

Also you don't have to remove anything, just spray the water drain hole with high-compressed air during service. It should clear the clogging

**Ritabroto** · 07-20-2023, 03:00 PM

Hi..
Service center people are asking to change chain+sprocket kit. They are telling that one needs to change at 8K interval. Mine has done 15K & I didn't change the sprocket. Is it true what they are saying? Although I maintain my chain religiously at every 500-600Kms & so far no problems have arised.

**TS1964** · 07-20-2023, 03:55 PM

Chain and sprockets certainly will wear out.
But in Europe I never heard about fixed change interval, just an acceptable tolerance. Because chains can be open and used on dirt roads or well protected in the chain case and only used on tarmac.
If pinion/sprocket are deformed, they start to look like a shark tooth - change (together with chain). If you can lift the chain off the rear sprocket by hand - change (not necessarily together with pinion/sprocket, but if you are working at it anyway, you can spend a little more money and save work later).
But if the chain is just slack between the pinion and sprocket and can be tightened by pushing the rear wheel back slightly, adjust that.

**B7ACKTHORN** · 07-25-2023, 06:12 PM

Originally posted by Ritabroto View Post

Hi..
Service center people are asking to change chain+sprocket kit. They are telling that one needs to change at 8K interval. Mine has done 15K & I didn't change the sprocket. Is it true what they are saying? Although I maintain my chain religiously at every 500-600Kms & so far no problems have arised.

There isn't a set interval for chain sprocket replacement at 8k kms. This is purely to loot the customer. A chain sprocket kit would last 15 to 20k kms easily and depending on the wear rate, you can replace your sprocket. If you're taking care of your sprocket well, lubing and cleaning it on time, there's absolutely no necessity to replace it at 8k kms.

Cheers!
VJ

**Ritabroto** · 07-26-2023, 03:59 PM

Originally posted by B7ACKTHORN View Post

There isn't a set interval for chain sprocket replacement at 8k kms. This is purely to loot the customer. A chain sprocket kit would last 15 to 20k kms easily and depending on the wear rate, you can replace your sprocket. If you're taking care of your sprocket well, lubing and cleaning it on time, there's absolutely no necessity to replace it at 8k kms.

Cheers!
VJ

Thank you!! Even the way the KTM rep were telling I figured something was not right. Generally I clean/lube my chain at around 500-600km religiously.

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2017 Duke 250

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