I haven't used it. I was wondering if anyone in this thread have used it or the Steel braided lines from Bajaj Pulsar 220 or KTM, and since no one responded to the original post I think no-one has used it.

Hi I found this steel braided brake line on Amazon, have anyone tried this? It enhances the bite and feel of the front brake.

Link below.

Generic 500mm-1200mm Motorcycle Scooter Bikes Braided Steel Brake Clutch Oil Hose Line Pipe - silver, 60cm https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01M8PBE09/..._LXUXBbE8D5QGV

Hi Ishq, do you still happen to have body panels with you ? If so let me know. I have a 2005 CBZ star and I am unable to locate the body panels. Thank you.

Hi Chaitanya,

I have the body panels front fork set headlight visor TPFC covers etc all brand new and all OE spares, if interested let me know.

You can contact me @ 9940523416.

cbz

ihave both the cbz and star parts cataloge , only the jets were changed, also the initial models before 2000 came with the larger holed exhaust ,the 2000 onwards one came with the smaller holes,

I am not aware what is Cat-con ???

i have a 2002 model CBZ classic black which has done 75k on stock engine. 23k is too early for Engine issues.

as for CBZ classic and Star the diffrence was the Cat-con was gone and from keihin carb they move to mikuni slide Carb to boost the FE.
few things to check if there is a drop in acceleration.

1. spark plug. as its over 10 year old . replace the spark plug if not replaced in last few year with the Original NGK ones.
2. open the carb and clean it with proper carb cleaner to make it perfectly like a new carb and check the idle and main jets. they should not be blocked.
3. air fliter
4. check with a voltmeter what amount of electrivity its creating at idle and at about 5000 rpm. at idle it should be about 12V and about 14V at 5000 or so rpm.

if all these check out good then check of any uneven sounds ( valve noisue- might need tappet/valve clearance ) adjustment.
run 1-2 round of Shell Rimula R4 of 1000 km each to clean up the engine gunk well.

that should do it... DO NOT OPEN THE ENGINE at 28000 km. not happening.
check the exhaust tip. do you see any oily deposits ( not dry carbon).
engine oil reducing over time ??

i have a 2002 model CBZ classic black which has done 75k on stock engine. 23k is too early for Engine issues.

as for CBZ classic and Star the diffrence was the Cat-con was gone and from keihin carb they move to mikuni slide Carb to boost the FE.
few things to check if there is a drop in acceleration.

1. spark plug. as its over 10 year old . replace the spark plug if not replaced in last few year with the Original NGK ones.
2. open the carb and clean it with proper carb cleaner to make it perfectly like a new carb and check the idle and main jets. they should not be blocked.
3. air fliter
4. check with a voltmeter what amount of electrivity its creating at idle and at about 5000 rpm. at idle it should be about 12V and about 14V at 5000 or so rpm.

if all these check out good then check of any uneven sounds ( valve noisue- might need tappet/valve clearance ) adjustment.
run 1-2 round of Shell Rimula R4 of 1000 km each to clean up the engine gunk well.

that should do it... DO NOT OPEN THE ENGINE at 28000 km. not happening.
check the exhaust tip. do you see any oily deposits ( not dry carbon).
engine oil reducing over time ??

the initial models had an exhaust with a smaller dia hole, and then the dia increased.. they probably added a catcon circa 2000 iirc.

and i've heard the star model had the accelerator pump removed to improve FE but have no way of confirming it. the star did not feel as nice as the original one in terms of acceleration..me having had the lucky chance of riding both of them in stock avatars when new.

here is a link from one of our members to the workshop manual:


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you might want to go over the workshop manual that is posted above. especially the fuel system parts where they have given some troubleshooting info.
i'd advice you first get your petrol tank, fuel tap, carb thoroughly cleaned the accelerator cable cleaned/lubed and adjusted correctly, chain sprockets inspected and adjusted, before touching other engine parts.