the seperate "V" one will cost you 300bucks...
entire a cool 1300....

drop the idea of both and spitfire too if you'll think of it...
definately they're not worth atleast in RTR...

now this is news for me...
will check it ASAP....

dear when hdlgt is on low beam thn the use of pass switch turn off the low beam and switch on the high beam. in case if the hdlgt is in high beam initially thn use of pass switch doesnt effect the beam position as pass switch only functioned with high beam!! !!!

not in my case man. the low beam remains on and the high beam is 'added' to it. same with high beam. the low is 'added', so there is a much less obvious but still visible flash.

Rear disc brake fluid reservoir

Was doing some battery maintenance and noticed the rear disc's fluid is very close to the low level. but the battery 'cage' is right on top of the screw cap of the fluid reservoir. there is no way to open the cap without unscrewing the whole reservoir from its mounting on the frame. anyone know anything about this?

Fi Service Manual

I have cleaned up, trimmed and edited the manual that Kauria had so kindly shared with us earlier. The file size is also greatly reduced; there are three options really, depending on if you want to print or just view it onscreen.

RTR Manuals - Windows Live

All credits and mucho thanks to Kauria for the manual in the first place.

p.s. if someone would like to upload the manuals to a more popular file sharing site, please go ahead. this is my personal skydrive account.

Nope yaar!! Ur wrong. Also I have not noticed any strange sound from the pump. The horn though sounds a bit strained.

This is the right thing that happens in the pass switch - cars(atleast on mine)/bikes(R15/RTR).

The ASC guys checked my speedo and said it has to be replaced. But I went at around 11 AM today morning. So they asked for half a day. The next service is due in another 30 days or so. Will get it replaced then. So the bike becomes new after around 10K. Great!!!

The chief engineer who took a spin on my vehicle came back with a smile saying - "Sir, bike is too smooth. Very soft. No vibes. Kinda does not feel like an Apache. How did u do it?" I cud not control my laughter!!!

Looks like both of our bikes are becoming cousins

Guys, recently I had my Apache 150's ignition changed at a TVS service center here in New Ashok Nagar, Delhi.

The guy gave me a new set of keys for use with ignition only, and the old key would have to be used for the fuel filler cap and side cowl.

When I received the bike after the repairs were completed, I had major electrical problems. First off, the self start did not work in neutral or in any gear. In fact, the green "N" did not even appear on the cluster until I kicked the bike into life. At this point, all lights and electric functions were at normal status. There is no issue once she is started, but in stop-start traffic like Delhi's, I am too used to self-start to manage without it. Also, she does not self-start once kicked and then shut off via killswitch.

Basically, I think my electrical system is conked somewhere i.e. regulator, alternator... something. The system works fine once the bike is kick-started, but the self start, horn, and indicators do not work when the ignition is set to "ON" and the engine is off (as they ought to). No amount of playing around helped, and I wanted to know what the problem is. Please help. It's urgent and imperative I fix this before Monday.

Machi......its obvious that they have messed up the wiring da.....just go and screw their asses till they fix it

yups...
in my case pressing the pass switch activates both the filaments....

you have to open the whole fluid reservoir which is in place by a single "star" screw..
i topped mine by opening the whole unit as there's no other way it's cap can be opened....

my pump didnt made strange sound to....
didnt noticed the horn though...


apar da you're in satish's line now....

changing speedo's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dunno about the K&N's. You should go for it only if you know the correct jet number to up-jet, can procure one and can get the job done confidently well. Else you are spending money and a lot of effort to screw your engine.

The Iridium Ix spark plug with Spitfire cables... well, there is a difference. I have tested 3 RTR 160's (one is a RTR 160 Refresh) one day on the same road. One bike was accelerating considerably faster past 80KMPH. The refresh was in good condition and doesn't have those irritating vibes between 6-7K RPM. But still one of the RTR's was accelerating way better than the other two at higher speeds and there's less vibes on this one at higher speeds.

The only thing we could point to on this bike was that it has Iridium spark plug with spitfire cables.

Now, it is upto each individual to decide whether that is what they want or not and whether they think that gain is worth the money they'd spend or not.

Satish, are you in line with my observations?

Also, I've recently added a GPower (Platinum) plug to the RTR Refresh and the high speed acceleration is now a little more crispier than earlier. Frankly, this doesn't fetch anything great to you and most people cannot notice the difference. I guess it is the Iridium + Spitfire cable that made the difference noticeable.

thanks for the info pal.

i went out this eve, was in a hurry so didn't have much time to check, but when the headlight was on and i hit the pass flasher, there was a kind of rougher running sound from the fuel pump. kind of like 'kharrr kharrr kharrr'. nothing when hitting the flasher when the headlight was off. i was really surprised to hear it. will do a more thorough investigation later.

lol! ok, i've read all your earlier posts about the major issues and how they were resolved, but would you be kind enough to summarise what you think are the reasons for your bike being smoother? if we could narrow down the list of things to chk/replace/fix it would be much easier.

The three RTR's

Mine, Vishnu's and Jam92's bikes

Condition of our bikes tht day

Mine - Service was pending. was almost 4.k kms since the last service. And was running on HP racer 4 engine oil. And my bike is a bit sluggish than all other RTR's

Vishnu's - It has a 100/90 Mrf Metor tyre at the rear. Its quiet heavy. There was some accelration drop, but the bike had better crusing ablility at 110+ speeds. Had serious tappet noise.

Sam's - Has a split fire cable with NGK iridum plugs. and everything else is stock. And it also has a one serious performance mod - Yellow rim tape


Possible reason's why we felt Sam's bike was better.

1. Both our bikes had tappet issues and mine had lots of performance loss due to the crappy oil. and vishnu's bike had a 100/90 tyre.

2. May be NGK+SP cable did make a diff.


Now you ppl decide.

My take - it make a diff, but not worth those 1000bucks you spend on it. if you got the moolah and have an itch to do something to your bike, then try it!

@ satish .. ITS SAM
ps- even my tappets were lose and i was running on ELF oil which was THICKER than the rest
and heyy !!!! the yellow tape looks good and gives more aerodynamics

@ HYDBY---my bike vibrates like a foot massager in the 6-7 RPM range but it dissapears when it crosses 7 RPM
@ the topic .. the above RTR mentioned with NGK was mine ..well
all i want to say is that

it is not THAT '''WORTH IT''' i mean 550 for a NGK and 500 for a spitfire

the benifits I personally have seen are
1.better cold start [dosent really matter when we have ''CHOKE'' option
2. the RPM meter moves more freely [ i mean the bike revs better than the stock
3. VERY VERY VERY SLIGHT increase in pickup .. you will only feel that when you change your bike and sit on a stock RTR ..
BUT IT IS VERY VERY VERY little
i went for it and to a limit i am happy because many people have said that my RTR responds better than the stock
i even invested on a HP airfilter to get that awesome sound .
i havent changed the jets because we need HELL Of a time to get the right size ..
i adjusted the air volume screw and the spark plug is now roasted brown in colour ...so NO issues ..

but unless you drag or use you bikes EARLY in the morning .. its not required

thanx guys for your inputs!!!..

i have given up the option of K&N and Iridium IX....

presently my bike is running on a MRF meteor 110/90-18 rear... already covered 27k kms on it..planning to get a new rear tyre very soon...

so what will you guys suggest??

i am thinking of MRF Zapper Q or Zapper Y with a 100/90-18 size....