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Replacement of Front tyre
All RTR Brothers:
Do we have any good replacement option of front tyre 90/90-17 profile.
Zapper F/FS somehow feels thinner than stock one even in the same profile.Yes....
I'm still Alive...Comment
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Zapper is the best bet otherwise FZ's chunkier 100-spec tyre would be good.Originally posted by indianz_alive View PostComment
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hai friends,
My RPM meter showed negative reading that is behaind the service light, i went and complained to the showroom in Sathaymangalam,Erode,TN. where i have purchased MY RTR 160, they told they will replace Entire DIGITAL METER for free of cost, because still my bike is under warranty. and they have changed it
After checking my RTR they informed ----u have to change the engine chain sprocket i said ok and the mechanic asked me for 140 rs to buy sprocket from local shop, due to spares not avail in showroom, that guy went and a bought a low quality sprocket cost around 75rs, when i phone called local shop checked , the sprocket was duplicate one and the mechanic produced a duplicate Bill.
So friends don't leave our Beloved RTR or RTR Fi in hands of this type of mechanics, even u grease chain , please be with them, these guys will do Anything for moneys
Don t believe service center mechanic, trust local a mechanicComment
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Yes that is Old News. The video was taken during the Auto Expo at TVS Stall.Originally posted by kauria View Post
@bamirthampr
Which sprocket are you talking about.Front/Rear?Comment
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Front one BroComment
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I do the more sasta thing I clean it wil kerosene it is running dry from 500kms cant fell any sound of chain while wearing a helmet!Originally posted by rennycornelius View PostSpeak Less,Speak Wise!
Sarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity.
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ditto with my Fi too...initially it was only about -4.5k rpm...but then drifted all the way back(ie in anti clockwise direction) to 10k.Originally posted by indianz_alive View PostThe tachometer needle is shifting negative day by day (behind zero
).
Yesterday, my bike was idling on 50rpm
and today it was idling at -100rpm (behind zero). Looks rather funny when I see my bike doing 63Km/H at 3K rpm 
.
The needle takes a full sweep (in degrees) while booting i.e. if its showing -ve 1000rpm, it sweeps to 11k rpm. The total 12K rpm sweep remains same.
Either current is bypassing some passive component or needle coil assembly has got loose inside the meter.
i got it rectified(mind you, not replaced) free of cost but after a week or so , it again started shifting backwards and now it has again reached 10k so now my bike seemingly idles at 11.5k!!
If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough - Albert Einstein
I think i know less than what you think i know.Comment
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Sad to hear that it gave so much trouble, i have problems with clock, top speed logger resetting to 160 on it's own and the great fuel bar having mind of it's own.Originally posted by indianz_alive View PostThe digital meters are made by a company named 'Pricol'. This company provides digital meters for almost all bikes manufactured in India.
The digital clock uses a crystal oscillator which has a precise frequency.
I don't think using a cheaper crystal capacitor gives significant cost reduction.
But surely, they would only had done Early-life Test (2~3 days, or max to one week continuous) rather than Long-Life Test (atleast 1 month continuous).
After a product is approved, no one bothers to do or validate any of the tests.
Actually, the original meter came fitted in my RTRFi was much more accurate. The later meters (having lighter blue backlight) are more error prone.
Unfortunately, the original meter got severely damaged in an accident.
As of now, the current meter is behaving radically for last 4~5 days.
The tachometer needle is shifting negative day by day (behind zero).
Yesterday, my bike was idling on 50rpm and today it was idling at -100rpm (behind zero). Looks rather funny when I see my bike doing 63Km/H at 3K rpm .
The needle takes a full sweep (in degrees) while booting i.e. if its showing -ve 1000rpm, it sweeps to 11k rpm. The total 12K rpm sweep remains same.
Either current is bypassing some passive component or needle coil assembly has got loose inside the meter.
For 90/90 go for the soft compound one that 220 DTS-I sports, otherwise i'll suggest to go for the FZ's front.Originally posted by indianz_alive View Post
Originally posted by bamirthampr View Post
You changed the whole chain assembly? Ie both sproakets along with the chain?Last edited by rennycornelius; 05-11-2010, 10:22 PM.The Magician"
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just checked the "average" after the tankfull to tankfull basis..
My FI just gave me 35kmpl....
The least i got this time.The Magician"
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friends, am planning to go for a rtr160. can anyone throw more light about the vibration issue?
thanksRide Safe!!Comment
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Hello Guys
Just installed a Zapper Q 110/90 18" for the rear. It feels much better than the stock tyres . Havent tried leaning or bending on the zap Q, will go for a ride sometime soon . Luckily , i didnt have to remove the chain cover
.
Now planning to go for R15's front MRF Zapper FY . That is 80/90 . Has any one of you installed it, as its not 90/90, which is stock for The Apache RTR front.
If anyone has installed it, let me know the brief review of it..
Thanks
~Sidsigpic
Fastest got faster..Comment
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Vibes will stat at 5300 will end at 6500RPM.Originally posted by venkatesh_B View Post
You have to live with it no matter what.The Magician"
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is the vibration too bad? test drive ppl doesn't allow to go high speeds..Ride Safe!!Comment
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