That's the front tyre (if I got your point of attention).

Also, you can add Shell Advance VSX-4 to the Cheap, Better, Best list. Its available at Rs.290 in Delhi.

I'm using it for past ~4800 Kms, no significant oil loss, will be changing it soon.

Thanx for the input guys.

I found two items of interest, the G20 valve and injector cleaner and the G23 injector system cleaner. Any idea how much they cost?

Based on what other users have reported, 50 weight oil does seem to be too viscous so stick with 40.

There's a couple of things not mentioned here. First is the mudguard and tail asembly is usually misaligned due to being plastic, so using that as a visual indicator may give a wrong impression of the swingarm alignment. And if you're posting a photo you could atleast have one on the mainstand.

The second thing is that there is an offset to the rear wheel mounting. The linear axis of the wheel is closer to one side of the swingarm than the other. Kinda like how the rear wheel on some scooters is offset and not on the same linear axis to the front wheel's but a little parallel to it. Probably something to do with the rear disc mounting maybe.

@indian- my previous post was most concerned about a gap that u have mention in the picture.

it will be a wrong conclusion if we checked up the alignment of swing arm with respect to rear mudguard assembly as the plastic quality used for it is not so good(read as cheap) and hence it is highly prone to temperature changes( shrink/change in shape). in almost 80% rtrs i observed this misalignment of rear mud guard.

+1

The 180's mudguard is quite aligned, but the RTR's is not the same, my old mudguard was always on the little right side, but the new 180 is exactly at the center.

Notchyness redefined

I usually have no qualms with the notchy gearboxes as i often blip while upshifting (only at the high RPM/ripping rides) and downshifting both that smoothenes out all the hard/not slotting/half clutch shifts/no clutch shifts changes, but this is first i'am noticing.

Despite having the most perfect play at the clutch and the perfect setting of the linkage, my bike is suffering from the false neutrals and in between just in two places, first while going from 1st to 2nd (i thought it might be due to me not tapping the lever with the right force, but it's not due to that) and the strange part is, it always misses 2 when it's been cogged at the low RPMs read 2000-3500, and when it's been tapped after pulling the bike to 6000-7000 it slots in perfectly.What also happens is while running for say 200-300mts in 2nd after clogging it from 1 at the low RPM (again 3000-4000), the bike automatically comes down to neutral, this happens once in blue moon but it does.

I think the spring at the 'box has lost it's tension.

These above mentioned issues are always while upshifting and never while downshifting

Another in-between issue is while goin from 2nd to 3rd, this happens not all the time but say 2 outta 10 times.
This happens at both low and high RPM shifting.

One more thing while shifting from 1-2, 2-3 the bike looses RPM, this also happens while shifting at the low RPMs, this is very annoying, cuz the moment it looses the RPM the gearbox makes a huge banging noice, the shift is harder making all the fun end, as the bike just drops from the powerband.

No such thing in the other gears/at high RPM's/or with blipping the throttle shifts.

Hello Sirji u were ridind my bike i think hehhehe I'm facing same issues u mentioned like yesterday i went on Long ride(700kms in one day) i noticed that in afternoon time and when engine is Super Duper Hot If u shift 1 to 2nd gear in Low RPM's Gear automatically jumps down @ 'N' even if your accelerating on 2nd gear .But i observed that while Riding at night and in cool weather gear shifts was just normal So kindly explain Is the re any connection between Hot Weather and gear Box( or hot engine and Gear Box) .

2> and some times i felt clutch gets hard on High RPM shifting (8k-9k) On both Night-Day ride.

3> I think the spring at the 'box has lost it's tension. Hey what is this Spring..? can u explain it in some simple words

A small update from my side. After persisting with the officials of TVS my brothers fi has finally had a change of ECU, Fuel Injector and Fuel Filter. The fuel filter was replaced at our cost while the other two parts were replaced at company's cost.

The bike has become noticeably smoother, but that amazing response has been dulled. the bikes become more mature. however, there is no problem of the bike wheezing in between. Also, when the handlebar is turned fully to the right the throttle gets stuck and it does not go below 3.5K rpm. probably a tight acc. cable.

I have been riding both my A150 and my bro's fi. I just dont get the same level of front end stability that I enjoy on my A150. The handlebar seems like they are oscillating. What could be the problem? the front tyre is the same zapper 90/90 from the P220.

The bike has covered around 6.7K kms (only in 19months!). and it is running on Petronas fully synth.

And bangaloreans - a small help. Looking for a round headlamp assembly for my A150. What are the places i should be looking at? also suggestions for Coil rewinding as i want to use a 60/55w bulb.

And for the fi, looking for a 110/80 or 110/90 (18in) tyre. Suggestions please?

Thanks!

cheers!
sai_ace

@abhiwar:

Cold and HOt engine, here read the temp of the oil, has nothing to do with the "notchyness" of the gearbox, though the warmed up oil do makes the shifts little bit "easy" on the toe, that's it.

I dont know what other owners are experiencing but i this is how the gearbox of RTR behaves, it cannot be corrected.

If you'll hold one gear and then upshift, it'll shift like dream, but if you'll upshift to say from 3rd to 4 at 3000-4000 range it'll shift hard and with a loud banging noice.
The gearbox loves high RPM shifts and is not comfy with the low RPM ones.

There was a spring inside the 'box of the KB100, so i'am assuming that the RTR has one too, but i'am not sure about it.

JULIAN shed some light on this.^^^

Hey SAI_ACE!!!
long time.

The old black injector was much more lively than the new silver one, i also posted the same long back.
May be the new one is tuned on the average side more, having lesser holes i think.

As for the tyres go for the ZAPPER Q.

my gears also used to slip from 2 to N and even on higher gears they used to go to N but after shifting to synthetic oil and complaining to svc they fixed it and now gearbox works brilliantly .dunno what they did though !

i've also upgraded lighting to an HID and will soon change indicators to led type .

Let's Uncomplicate

Did I mention anywhere that I had taken Mudguard as reference??

I think these pictures are making things clear what I want to put in front of all. There's a gap for only one finger to pass at left side, on the other side, the gap is close to two fingers.

Guys, do try to measure the same in your respective steeds. I wish it's not an abnormal thing.
dhaba g2g

yeah we can install an bi-xenon projector but i didnt have money to buy it .and i can come to g2g only in evening

this kinda situation happens with my bike when i am pulling her hard on inclined slopes of himachal for approx. 2-3hrs of hill ride as in those terrains bike hardly touches up 50-55kmph (and gear level randomly hovering around 4-3-2).

@ all- guys from the past one week there is a noise coming from chain set(it occurs only when i initiate my bike from standstill or try to pulled up in lower gear) when i checked up the sprockets condition, the rear's teeths got uneven heads and front one is fine.(chain tension/free play is also fine).

so please advice me k do i have to replace the whole chain set or a just new rear sprocket will vanish this noise/problem, though i guess the o-ring chain also suffers some wear tear with the time(1yr.10months old bike) and might need replacement too.

@indianz_alive:

These pics are more clear, they're now showing what you were trying to explain.
The uneven gap at both sides spells trouble, it may prove dangerous at leans and high speeds,don't know whats the cause of that though, but it surely relates to the 'arm.


@SARAB_FI:

Change the whole set i.e, the chain, front and rear sproaket.
Never use an old chain with the new sproaket or vice versa.

Sai, good to see u here man! Anyways following is my take on things:

1. 6.7K in 19 months... :P My RTR has done 17K!!!
2. Yes, it ages graciously, the RTR Fi. Now its all very good and free now. Change/Clean the air filter as well. Also remember that the engine wud have bed in, so cant expect anything more.
3. Front end stability... hmmm. Maybe cone set/misaligned tire/tube/bent handle bar/ bent alloy or worse a T-Stem. Cos I happened to have few of these probs affecting my handling and worked on them.
4. U dont need any rewinding for coil man. Remove the pilots and the number plate lamp. Also use a lower wattage tail lamp and use a 55/60W bulb. Am doing that on the Fi. Its holding up real good.
5. Ask the other tire gurus for suggestions. Am using the ZMR rear in tubeless mode!