Thanks for guiding mate. Will measure it and confirm. I had no access to net yesterday.

Hi ! how much KMS has your efi covered ? check whether fuel filter /air filter /spark plug is in good condition

as for the exhaust contact joel joseph at his mail id

but how will you arrange those pilots in round unit??
they look like odd thing out.

guys what are the parts that i would damage when upshifting gears without using clutch?
does it work on all gears or a few? didnt work when i wanted to upshift from 4 to 5, but did give me a nice leap when shifted from 2 to 3 at about 6k rpm

Even if the bush is severly damaged, i don't think it will show up as a length difference. Dunno for sure, have you ever tried it? AFAIK, the only way to check is a visual inspection of the bushes or checking for lateral play in the swingarm.

Incorrect shifting, with or without the clutch, will damage the dog teeth on the driving gears and cause excessive wear or bend the shifter forks. It will work on all gears, much harder from 1st to 2nd though. You will need to blip the throttle and get the timing spot on. Some people use this method, but NEVER use the technique of keeping pressure on the shift lever, i.e. keep it lifted up, then chop the throttle so that it shifts. By keeping the lever lifted you are actuating the forks to slide the dogged gears, but since the gearbox is under load, it won't shift till you chop the throttle. This will cause severe wear or bend the forks. Once they're damaged, they won't be able to properly slide the gears in and you will have a lot of missed shifts and 'grinding' gears. The rtr gearbox is not particularly suited to clutchless shifting, i've been doing so on all my bikes from the RX, Boxer, RD, CBZ etc without any issues, but it's just not smooth on the rtr.

I think what he meant was since he's using a round headlight, he doesn't need pilots.

Pilot lights question

Can someone shed some light on what changes need to be done in the wiring circuit to have the pilots work only in the parking position on the handlebar switch and turn off when the main headlight is turned on. For clarity:

1. Pilots ON & Headlight OFF
2. Pilots OFF & Headlight ON

wheel base increase

friends i am back with another query....

i do a lot of touring and the bike literally dances in crosswinds....i have thought of a solution
1.change the swing arm to that of RTR180
2.change the chain sproket to that of RTR180
3.change the rear suspensions to that of RTR180
4.change the alloys to that to that of RTR180

now is this possible ??rather i should ask is this feasible????
my point of thinking this mods was just the increase of wheel base and 17"alloys would increase the stability of the bike during crosswinds...

i have come to this inference after riding a p180 classic and a p180 ug4 ....there was remarkable difference in the bikes note:- the ug4 was without the bikini fairing,it had the same classic round headlamp

would wait for your replies before jumping into the project.....

actually i am doing this for an upcoming kolkata - ladakh- kolkata trip during august .....so would like to mod first and then ride it here for shorter distances for at least another 5000km before taking her out to ladakh


thanks in advance

Beautifully detailed and explained.
+1.

One more thing i would like to add is for clutchless shifts always shift at 8500-9000RPM, specially in RTR, as low RPM clutchless shift will give you a jerk and the bike takes a little rolling to actually get the gear "engaged".

The RTR shifts smooth clutchless, if shifted at 8500-9000-10000RPM, but not as the KB100 or the FIERO at higher revs but it's not bad.



Oops,
My BAD

1.RTR slides at the strong crosswinds, shifting to the RTR180's swingarm will improve it 0%, it's only few mm's long in length and practically they wont help in crosswind battle, so forget it.

2.Sproakets helps in gaining,accelerations,shaving off times,top speeds etc, and not for battling the croaawinds ,chain has nothing to do with it, so again it's useless.

3.The rear suspension of RTR180 is more stiffer than the 160 and it'll work best if fitted with the 'arm of the 180, but that will help on track and twisties, not when a "semi" will blast past you, still throwing you off the road.

4.The alloys are 500grms lighter than the 160 and are 17", again good for acceleration and track, not for the highway and crosswinds thingy, to battle the crosswinds you need long wheelbase(not by few mm's though) coupled with weight.

The pulsar's and RTR's bikiny fairing gives a shit to drag coeff. and cutting air, they are just for the novelty purpoes.

You felt the diff in both pulsars cuz the new one has elliptical beefy lengthened swingarm than the claasic one,plus it weights more.

^^^^

thanx buddy for the quick reply
regarding the chain sproket thingy...i was planning it to compensate the longer swingarm....

The swingarm along with the shocks wont be worth the investment on the 160.
The RTR160 in stock form already rocks.

it definitely does but the only prob is when in the GQ a dumbass scorpio overtakes you

RTR 180's front alloy is same as that of 160. rear wheel weights less because of smaller dia. and differance in weight of entire wheel assembly(wheel +tire) is beacause of tube.

Thanks for adding.
i forgot to mention that.

You mean cogs right?

How to make the Exhaust sound more good??

I was thinking to cut open the conical shaped thing of the exhaust to see the arrangement inside the exhaust, and if it's running two pipes routing inside, i was thinking to cut one short or completely removing it, thus making it more freeflow type.....RESULT-MORE GROWLING SOUND,and weld the conical thing back in place.

Nope, i meant dogs as in dog teeth on the side of the driving gears on the input shaft which slot into holes on the side of the driven gears on the output shaft. Read up on constant mesh gearboxes to understand better. I've posted links earlier.