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  • Originally posted by Aparajith View Post
    .
    Remove the pilots and the number plate lamp. Also use a lower wattage tail lamp and use a 55/60W bulb. Am doing that on the Fi. Its holding up real good.
    I'am also runnig without the parling twins and rear num plate light, saving total of 15Watts i guess.

    Will buy that 55/60 now.
    The Magician"

    Comment


    • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
      Cold and HOt engine, here read the temp of the oil, has nothing to do with the "notchyness" of the gearbox, though the warmed up oil do makes the shifts little bit "easy" on the toe, that's it.

      If you'll hold one gear and then upshift, it'll shift like dream, but if you'll upshift to say from 3rd to 4 at 3000-4000 range it'll shift hard and with a loud banging noice.
      Hard shifts and the banging sound, which is probably the dogs slipping are indicative of excessively work shifter forks or dogs. I only have theoretical knowledge of constant-mesh gearboxes, never worked on one hands-on, so someone more experienced will have to provide some inputs. But there's nothing other than the forks or dogs which could be screwed. And the oil, viscosity and temp would make a difference in shifting.

      Originally posted by indianz_alive View Post
      I think these pictures are making things clear what I want to put in front of all. There's a gap for only one finger to pass at left side, on the other side, the gap is close to two fingers.

      Guys, do try to measure the same in your respective steeds. I wish it's not an abnormal thing.
      From these pictures it's now clear what you meant. I would say it's not an accurate way of knowing, since you're measuring the distance between the spring and the rearset. Rearset's are not part of the main chassis, so you should be measuring distance between the shocks vertical axis and the swingarm's linear instead. I have noticed that one of the shocks have more washers under the dome nut, i think they've used them as some kind of spacers. Overall, i don't have a very good impression about TVS's finishing methods. I've mentioned earlier about the excessive use of insulation tape instead of sleeving and heat-shrink tubing in the electrical wiring. It seems like how the local mechs do jugaad to just finish the job. It works fine and does the job but isn't aesthetically perfect or correct. I will try to measure all the offsets soon and report back.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
        From these pictures it's now clear what you meant.
        Thanks for understanding the problem...

        Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
        I would say it's not an accurate way of knowing, since you're measuring the distance between the spring and the rearset. Rearset's are not part of the main chassis, so you should be measuring distance between the shocks vertical axis and the swingarm's linear instead.
        But the rearsets are quite rigid and one can assume that they are equally spaced from centreline of the chassis. Maybe washers would also make the shocks offset a bit, but not as much as in my case. 2-3mm difference can be neglected, but a good ~12mm difference is the root of my worry. That's why I'm urging here to provide your respective steeds' 'highlighted' gaps.

        Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
        I will try to measure all the offsets soon and report back.
        Thanks in anticipation...
        Yes....

        I'm still Alive...

        Comment


        • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
          I'am also runnig without the parling twins and rear num plate light, saving total of 15Watts i guess.

          Will buy that 55/60 now.
          55/60W works little better but switching between high beam and low beam takes more time.
          There's lot to it other than saddle....


          sigpic

          Comment


          • Originally posted by indianz_alive View Post
            Thanks for understanding the problem...


            But the rearsets are quite rigid and one can assume that they are equally spaced from centreline of the chassis. Maybe washers would also make the shocks offset a bit, but not as much as in my case. 2-3mm difference can be neglected, but a good ~12mm difference is the root of my worry. That's why I'm urging here to provide your respective steeds' 'highlighted' gaps.


            Thanks in anticipation...
            Measure the distance from swing are pivot shaft to swing arm end
            you will come to know.
            If it is offset, get the swing arm serviced and change the pivot bushes of the same.
            There's lot to it other than saddle....


            sigpic

            Comment


            • Originally posted by sai_ace View Post
              A small update from my side. After persisting with the officials of TVS my brothers fi has finally had a change of ECU, Fuel Injector and Fuel Filter. The fuel filter was replaced at our cost while the other two parts were replaced at company's cost.

              The bike has become noticeably smoother, but that amazing response has been dulled. the bikes become more mature. however, there is no problem of the bike wheezing in between. Also, when the handlebar is turned fully to the right the throttle gets stuck and it does not go below 3.5K rpm. probably a tight acc. cable.

              I have been riding both my A150 and my bro's fi. I just dont get the same level of front end stability that I enjoy on my A150. The handlebar seems like they are oscillating. What could be the problem? the front tyre is the same zapper 90/90 from the P220.

              The bike has covered around 6.7K kms (only in 19months!). and it is running on Petronas fully synth.

              And bangaloreans - a small help. Looking for a round headlamp assembly for my A150. What are the places i should be looking at? also suggestions for Coil rewinding as i want to use a 60/55w bulb.

              And for the fi, looking for a 110/80 or 110/90 (18in) tyre. Suggestions please?

              Thanks!

              cheers!
              sai_ace


              Thalaiva, good to see you back!

              For the throttle cable, check the routing of the cable. See if it routed through the clamp @ T-Stem. If not try putting the cable inside the clamp and then check.



              Got my bike back from service on monday (saturday actually). Bike is now running on motul 300v 5w40. Could'nt find 10w40 300v. Bike is absolutly smooth now. Tappets were resetted but not done properly. Wonder how smooth would it be had it been setted properly. its damn smooth

              Just checked the mileage. am getting around 45kmpl. Disc brake jerking still not rectified. but it does'nt bother me much. need to replace the rear brake shoe.
              07 HH Zma
              11 Honda Aviator DLX
              14 Ford Figo 1.4 TDCI (Now Caged:( )
              16 Scooty Zest
              11 CBR 250R

              Comment


              • Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                Hard shifts and the banging sound, which is probably the dogs slipping are indicative of excessively work shifter forks or dogs.. But there's nothing other than the forks or dogs which could be screwed.
                What exactly the dogs are?
                and what about the connecting "joints" of the linkage??

                Originally posted by nox2505 View Post
                55/60W works little better but switching between high beam and low beam takes more time.
                Does it make one hell of the diff in beam?

                Originally posted by indianz_alive View Post
                Maybe washers would also make the shocks offset a bit, but not as much as in my case. 2-3mm difference can be neglected, but a good ~12mm difference is the root of my worry. That's why I'm urging here to provide your respective steeds' 'highlighted' gaps.
                Washers wont make them offset,and these 12mm is bit too much, i wonder what is the cause.

                Originally posted by onlinesatish View Post

                Just checked the mileage. am getting around 45kmpl.
                Not bad Mr. Satish...
                45kmpl is really very goog average.

                __________________________________________________ ________

                Just came after the 20 kms of ride.
                The bike ran like dream, it came to 117 from 100 in like 3-4 secs, it felt very fast and the bike ran so smooth at 7000RPM that it even gave complex to smoothness at 4000RPm the bike has.
                i rode almost 12kms parking my tacho's needle at the 7000RPM.

                I'am in love with the RTR again.
                Last edited by rennycornelius; 05-28-2010, 12:57 PM.
                The Magician"

                Comment


                • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                  What exactly the dogs are?
                  and what about the connecting "joints" of the linkage??
                  i guess dogs in mesh type gearbox is a small piece of metal which is of square shaped hardly 2-3cm(L*H), and its main function is to connect the gearbox mechanism with transmission one( frnt sprocket shaft). if i am not wrong
                  i had a glimpse of this dog when my friends RE (bullet) gearbox malfunctioned
                  (unable to clogged a gear) and this dog was culprit in that case.
                  cause is mechanical wear and tear of that dog's head.
                  BIKING ??? " A RELIGION "

                  Comment


                  • @SARAB_FI:

                    Thanks for the input.
                    The Magician"

                    Comment


                    • oiled dust 'round the injector

                      While cleaning my bike today i noticed "oiled" dust around the injector (covering the neck of it), may be that's from the head, cuz RTR's head leaks a fine line of oil once a month or so, i always clean the oiled dust around it.
                      Anybody noticed the same??
                      The Magician"

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by nox2505 View Post
                        Measure the distance from swing are pivot shaft to swing arm end
                        you will come to know.
                        If it is offset, get the swing arm serviced and change the pivot bushes of the same.
                        What you're describing is the length of the swingarm?? Confused what you mean exactly.

                        Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                        What exactly the dogs are?
                        and what about the connecting "joints" of the linkage??
                        Loose connecting joints will create excessive play in the shift action, and may cause a few false neutrals, but probably won't be causing the symptoms you described.

                        The dogs are teeth on the sides of gears which engage into holes on other gears which in turn connect the input shaft to the output shaft in a constant mesh gearbox. See the following links for more info.

                        How Motorcycle Transmissions Work
                        Transmission Applet / scottdial.com
                        Gear Shifting

                        Comment


                        • ^^^^
                          Thanks for the links bro..
                          The Magician"

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by julianpaul View Post
                            What you're describing is the length of the swingarm?? Confused what you mean exactly.



                            80% are the chances that he need to change the swing arm pivot bush. to confirm that, i am asking him to measure the distance of pivot bolt center to swing arm end. If bush is damaged and swing arm is deflected, this distance wont remain same.

                            Another method to confirm this is to use string (line-dori).

                            Nice links buddy.
                            Last edited by nox2505; 05-29-2010, 10:23 AM.
                            There's lot to it other than saddle....


                            sigpic

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by rennycornelius View Post
                              Hey SAI_ACE!!!
                              long time.

                              The old black injector was much more lively than the new silver one, i also posted the same long back.
                              May be the new one is tuned on the average side more, having lesser holes i think.

                              As for the tyres go for the ZAPPER Q.
                              Originally posted by Aparajith View Post
                              Sai, good to see u here man! Anyways following is my take on things:

                              1. 6.7K in 19 months... :P My RTR has done 17K!!!
                              2. Yes, it ages graciously, the RTR Fi. Now its all very good and free now. Change/Clean the air filter as well. Also remember that the engine wud have bed in, so cant expect anything more.
                              3. Front end stability... hmmm. Maybe cone set/misaligned tire/tube/bent handle bar/ bent alloy or worse a T-Stem. Cos I happened to have few of these probs affecting my handling and worked on them.
                              4. U dont need any rewinding for coil man. Remove the pilots and the number plate lamp. Also use a lower wattage tail lamp and use a 55/60W bulb. Am doing that on the Fi. Its holding up real good.
                              5. Ask the other tire gurus for suggestions. Am using the ZMR rear in tubeless mode!
                              Originally posted by onlinesatish View Post
                              Thalaiva, good to see you back!

                              For the throttle cable, check the routing of the cable. See if it routed through the clamp @ T-Stem. If not try putting the cable inside the clamp and then check.
                              it feels nice to be back especially when welcomed by so many guys!

                              Il take up your suggestions... and yeah, considering i am going for a round headlamp, does not make sense of having pilots, but still wondering whether we should remove the number plate lamps?
                              R.I.P kriss.

                              Comment


                              • RTR Apache efi. TOP SPEED REDUCED

                                Hi guys am from "BANGALORE", am new to the forum so didn't know where to post my question.
                                I own an apache rtr efi 160.
                                I have managed to touch138 Kmph singles on airport road in bangalore.
                                Now my problem is that my bike takes up alot of time to reach top speed and its not crossing 117 kmph. Ocassionally it crosses 120 in slopes.

                                I changed the clutch plates and the bike is smoother now but the problem still remains.

                                One of the mechanics i asked told me that changing the valves and the piston rings will bring back the bike to almost new condition and the bike will perform like before.


                                Please suggest me of what to do about it.


                                Also am planning to get a low price exhaust kit fitted as i want my bike to reach higher RPMs faster. Anybody from bangalore who can suggest me from where can i buy or enquire about the exhaust ???

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