Nope....i hrdly ride the zma. Yep...20-40 is too good. i managed to hit 75kmph on the odo...was heading to the petrol bunk on the highway(GQ nh-7) Was listening to songs on my ipod within ear buds...i could hardly hear anything. It was a small downslope plus tailwinds.....i cassually saw the speedo it was showing 75 and was climbing towards 80...i was like F@#K and slowed down immediatly


I have ridden a hero puch yet!

OT of the DAY...

SUPER OT
BUT.........


ride it then......

Adding to the OT brigade...that was the bike I learnt to ride on...2 speed!

You mean the bolt itself is not turning? Then you will have to use the might of superman, i.e. pneumatic hammer. If the bolt has loosened and the assembly isn't sliding out, you will have to follow the alternate procedure of removing the bolt completely, then fishing out the little rubber and nut with the hooked rod i mentioned earlier. Btw, when they remove the bar-end, make sure they don't scratch the weight, because they usually do by gripping it with pliers without a cloth. When you removed the right one, did you get everything out? There should be a rubber ring, a flanged nut and a washer sometimes. And the tube and outer rubber of course. Oh and before you reinstall the bar-ends, examine the small rubbers. If they look old and corroded, change them with new ones. That's another reason not to use oil on the rubber to slide them in, it eats them up unlike liquid soap.

I didn't understand exactly. You mean it's wearing out the plastic or it's fitted to the plastic? The plastic has little bumps on it and the rubber has grooves. You will not be able to remove it without cutting off the rubber. It will take too much time and effort to do so, and you won't be able to fit it back anyway. So just cut it off and buy a new complete plastic+rubber grip if you want to revert.

Man, when the fiero came out, i went gaga over the switches and desperately wanted them on my bike. The previous champs were the YBX ones, but the fiero's were miles ahead of the competition, which was the cbz.

That's usual with disc brake levers, the yokes for clutch and brake are different.

If you have a nice, slim pair of strong, sharp cutters, nothing like it. I have a pair of surgical ones they use to cut bones! It will take 10 mins max. Hammering should be a last resort and done gently. Filing is not necessary, neither is feviquik, it will only fcuk up the plastic/rubber. Even though the bumps of the RTR plastic will not fit into the grooves of the cbz rubber, it will have enough grip to hold it in place

Now why would they do that when their grips are much more expensive than the HH ones?

Good idea. I too feel excessive lube isn't necessary for the o-ring chain. In fact I had him wipe off the spray from the sides, which do not contact anywhere anyway, to avoid it catching more crud. Btw, i thought you got the tvs spray when u mentioned the prices. No one here has it too.

The bolt is not turning, i have applied all the strength i had but no vail...
i'll go to the SC will tell him to just loosen a bit, rest i'll do at home.

Will keep in mind the small rubbers you have mentioned.


You nailed my point with the bolds...
So i have to cut it, got it now.

Will buy the whole plastic and rubber thing.
But i'll do it after some time.


The FIERO had the best switchgear...
Again shared by the mighty HAYABUSA.....


But this one seems quite out, but heck it's not noticable unles one see's it standing...


Will use that "AARI KA PATTA" the one used to cut the matal pipes to cut through it then.

Yes, you're right the feviquick will eat up the rubber over a period of time, i didnt thought about it.




But your whole process was mighty detailed.


I applied the coconut oil and wiped the excess with the cotton swab.
And i was wrong about the pricing of the TRU SPARY, the 100ml costs 100bucks and 500ml is for 295.

Didn't understand, you're talking about buying the RTR grip in case you want to revert back? Only do so if you don't like the cbz one na?

Ur talking about a hacksaw blade? I think after putting some thick cloth, putting enough weight would also do instead of hammering. Once it's broken/bent you can then attack it and remove small pieces with a pliers. Nothing will beat a good cutting pliers though.

Hmm, then the big one is more VFM but i'd still buy the small one.

I meant i'll but that ZMA/CNZ one but after some time...



Yes the hacksaw blade, the bolds are good idea..

I'am waiting for that 100ML can too, till then coconut oil Zindabaad.

Answers in BOLD.

Isn't the same switchgear carried over to RTRs?

The original ones are too thick, they make my palms turn red and pain during long rides, plus i was in love with the Fiero grips.
As Julian suggested i'll go for the CBZ/ZMA grips but i'll first hunt for the Fiero grips.

Yup, they're the same.

I believe those thick grips help in subsiding vibrations to some extent.Going in for thinner grips would only worsen it.I am not sure about it, but you guys should give it a shot.

JULIAN is running on "thin" grips, he didnt reported about the vibes at the palm increase.

I'll go to the TVS sc today for those Fiero grips, i dont think they'll have it in stock now, hoping to get lucky though.

It won't work, what's happened is the long bolt has probably rusted to the nut inside. So the whole thing will turn together.

The CBZ/ZMA's throttle grip plastic won't work properly inside the RTR throttle housing without extensive and difficult mods.

Any blade, heated or otherwise, will probably damage the inside of the cbz rubber which is already very soft and slightly thinner than the left grip rubber.

No, it doesn't help man. The hardness makes more vibes come through. Even though the HH rubber's thinner, the softness makes it much more comfy with less vibes coming to your palms. Yesterday i was looking at pics of the dazzler on xbhp and the grips look even better than the CBZ/ZMA. Dunno what the length is and also if they're as dirt cheap as the HH.

Hey, my friend with the fiero has been trying to get the grips for ages but just can't find them anywhere. His are shrunk and hard too, but he still didn't switch to the cbz ones. But he's an idiot really, didn't change his stock tyres for 6 years! Even when the damn kapda started showing through!

I was wondering, since the 180 has bigger weights on the bar-ends, would that really make much of a difference if fit to the 160/fi to reduce vibes?

I was in a bus yesterday and saw a twister, or so i thought. The tyres looked super fabulous! But much bigger than what is specified for the twister. The pattern was amazing, so was the beefy width. But the best part was the superb curvy profile which would support mucho leaning! I kinda felt it was almost as good as the FZ rear. OK, maybe because i was in the bus i was seeing a different perspective. When i got home, i researched and found it's not the twister but the dazzler which looks kinda similar. Anyway, i think that 110/80 would be the perfect tyre for the 17" equipped rtrs.

Hey, WTF is a viscous air filter?

I think it will dampen the vibs to some extent.

Sorry to interrupt the conversation flow. My FI has crossed over 10k. I thought of changing the rear tyre and I dont want to make any modification to the bike. I have short listed two tyres.

SPORT DEMON - 100/80 - 18 M/C 53P (same rating as stock).
Zapper Q - 100/90 -18 . (Please clarify whether this one is a direct fit to FI rear).

Please provide the input guys.