Thanks sir..this can be a possibility..i will check it..

Opening the engine is the last resort...kindly make another check...On Top gear the Karizma speed will be 60 Kmph at 4,000 RPM. . see if the Ratio is true. Speedo error is normally +5 Kmph ..so even if Speedo shows 65 Kmph at 4,000 RPM it is ok. If during sudden acceleration or on Top gear the RPM increase without increase in Speed, then you have a clutch that is slipping.
Still check with clutch slack before opening the engine..
Good Luck.

Thanks psr sir..oil is 10w30 and bike have run more than 4-5 km and in the sun so i think only bit left is clutch slack..i have tried adjusting clutch slack yesterday and previously as well but still issue is there .so not sure what i can do more here..i am thinking of opening the engine and inspecting the gear stuff internally for any damage..any advice here sir..thanks

If the Clutch adjustment is set a bit loose ie., more than 2mm slack at the clutch lever, then this will happen. Adjust clutch lever slack to 1 to 2mm and see if the problem goes away. Using a thicker oil can also result in hard shifts and very cold ambient also causes same problem till bike reaches optimum temperature...Hope this helps.

Hello .i have recently bored the engine with .25mm oversize piston..but the gear shift are hard in first 1-3 gear and finding neutral is also a task..this is my relative bike which was standing idle from 4-5 years..the engine is now ran for more than 800km but the gear shifts are still hard.i have changed engine oil as well ( total 2 times till now).
can i request someone( psr B7ACKTHORN ) please advice here.thanks

Thanks sir..i will keep this in mind..

Thankyou for the explanation

The Karizma has what is called "A" and "B" cable. The "A" cable is the one that pulls the Butterfly open, while the "B" cable allows it to return to a preset point. When both cables are in place the Throttle grip is set to stop before it hits the stopper in the Twist throttle. ie., the throttle stop is governed by the "B" return cable . If "B" cable is removed then you will notice that the throttle returns with a lot of slack . Many a time a stuck "B" cable due to weathering will prevent the throttle from returning fully back leading to Raised Engine RPM, as though throttle is continuously applied.
So this "B" cable can be eliminated and throttle slack adjustment done properly to ensure proper throttle working with only the "A" cable. there is no harm done with this elimination of "B" cable. I had done it in my Karizma since 2015 and face no problems.
A word of Caution... the throttle ring end for stopping is narrow and the "A" cable stop end will get into cable slot in the throttle grip. So a separate stopper to stop the throttle ring at the end must be added to ensure throttle stops and does not get jammed.

The second cable is basically to help shut the butterfly valve in case the valve gets stuck, it's basically a fail safe mechanism, mostly used in Japanese motorcycles. It doesn't have any significant necessity to be honest, with push and pull, pull and push, the idea is to get the valve closed safely and effectively. Using a single cable isn't going to in any way negatively affect the throttle action nor hamper the dexterity. Waiting for psr to chime in.

Good luck.

Cheers!
VJ

Can i request if someone ( psr sir if you can help here) can explain the significance of second accelerator cable..i am trying to install pulsar backlit switches with engine kill switch but then i need to give up on the second throttle cable so just curious what will be affect if i dont use second cable..i remember it was discussed in the forum earlier but unfortunately i am not able to search that post.thanks

Hi .so got the steel braided line..attaching pic for ref and pary number..i have lowered the handle by 1 inch already so there is no issue of fiting..price is RS1111

Hello .please can some one advice on good quality steel braided front brake hose..someone have advice that pulsar 220 have steel braided lines but those lines only cost 340-350..so bit confused.thanks

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Its Nice to have final feedback from you and Good to hear that your are changing the Carburettor rather than parts.

To talk about the drain screw, I don't know about whether the leak is due to corrosion on tip of the screw or O-ring.

Please excuse me for posting so late.
I somehow managed to get the new carburetor for the bike, after making few more calls to Hero spare part shops. Had to take the bike to a showroom near by my home to get the new carburetor fixed on the bike.

Hello Sir,
Thank you for the suggestion. I will keep this in mind. This will be helpful in future.

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Hello Vishal Wagh Sir,
I checked the drain screw in the old carburetor, there was some rust formation on the screw end. On blowing air to the brass tube inside the bowl, with drain screw being fully closed, air was able to leak to the drain side, through drain screw. Maybe that's why, fuel was draining.
Here is the image of it.

I don't know much about the old generation technology but what I learned from working on my bike is what I have.
But anyway nice to hear from you, definitely help to understand more. And also thanks for the feedback which really keeps things going on XBHP forum.