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Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

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  • silentmusic
    replied
    Hello guys, how are you all

    Need help, Karizma is not starting, It has been performing absolutely fine, now today when I went to install the battery after recharging it, I heard tik tik sound coming from the engine, It came while kicking or self starting. After few attempts it stopped and now its not willing to start. The kick is also feel lifeless. I checked the spark plug and its getting power properly. Removed the fuel cap to check if there is any air lock issue. But the problem is the kick itself not feeling life to it, its not as free as when we have faulty clutch but its not giving any feedback. I have feeling that something got broken inside, cam chain or something I dont know if it gives this sort of issue without cam chain. What could be problem? Please suggest. Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • masterline08
    replied
    Karizma is one of the tall and long bikes of nation, so perfect for those who are round about 6’ tall like me. Body seems carved in the shape of tiger and graphics are featured for sports and racing look. Karizma R users, use only 900ml lubricants engine oil as the manufactures recommends it.

    Leave a comment:


  • acs1207
    replied
    What next?
    Round 2 !!Click image for larger version

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ID:	2228620

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  • acs1207
    replied
    Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

    Originally posted by acs1207 View Post
    It is not that I can offer solutions, but would like a couple of points cleared.
    To which resize did you overbore?
    Is the running in period over?
    What speeds did you maintain for the first 1000/2000 Kms after rebore?
    Was the carb retuned after the rebore?
    With a rebored engine, more heat is to be expected. You can try the air filter mod suggested by par sir. I had posted about my DIY.
    For oil leaks I guess packings must be changed.

    Please post when the issues are rectified and how it was done.
    Oops, just noticed that autocorrect modified psr sir to par sir. Apologies.

    Leave a comment:


  • acs1207
    replied
    Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

    It is not that I can offer solutions, but would like a couple of points cleared.
    To which resize did you overbore?
    Is the running in period over?
    What speeds did you maintain for the first 1000/2000 Kms after rebore?
    Was the carb retuned after the rebore?
    With a rebored engine, more heat is to be expected. You can try the air filter mod suggested by par sir. I had posted about my DIY.
    For oil leaks I guess packings must be changed.

    Please post when the issues are rectified and how it was done.

    Leave a comment:


  • Gopinathan M Ramaswamy
    replied
    Re: Karizma R engine problem

    Originally posted by Udaya Chris View Post
    Hi,

    Im facing engine problems in my Karizma R 2012 model.Need your help and comments to the fix the issue .I have quoted my problem below.

    1)I have already rebored as my bike engine Seized due to missed to change Oil. After 5 months Now getting more Duk duk sound from engine (not timming tensor ) when the bike is in standby mode.

    2)Engine getting heating soon.

    3)Oil leaking form packing and some time when i start the bike using self start.Some big Kadak sound coming.not sure why?

    4)what are the best solution to fix the above issue

    5)i would like to repair above problem how much it will cost(Rs).

    6)Im from Chennai any one from Chennai ,is there any best mechanic there for karizma engine repairing?

    Please answer on the question vise.Thanks and waiting for you comments and advice.

    By
    Uday
    Can you help to let me know if you find good mechanic in chennai ? Any leads

    Leave a comment:


  • ashishrsa
    replied
    Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

    Thank you so much for the reply, now I understand it better. I will be purchasing all the parts first then rebuild it myself.
    Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post



    You'd need to rebuild the caliper.

    Boots are the consumable rubber bits other than the Caliper Seals, observe parts 8 and 9 in the below image;



    Do contemplate changing the pins as well if they're grooved.

    If at all there is any confusion it'd be cleared on its own with the help of commonsense after you take the caliper apart, it is just that simple a piece of hardware, the only basic understanding you need to have is that the design is called a floating caliper for a reason.



    Ideally they should be evenly worn, so its safe to presume that the caliper isn't sliding/floating as per its design which warrants a rebuild.



    This is a job best done by oneself and for good reason considering the lackluster attitude of mechanics irrespective of whether its FNG's or ASC's and the criticality of the component at hand.



    As I said, this isn't complicated at all, all you need is commonsense.

    A thumb rule to follow is to use only 6 point box spanners rather than 12 point ones. And when it comes to torquing a harder metal bolt on a softer metal casing it is only commonsense to use torque moderately. And finally, use threadlocker.

    Cheers,
    A.P.

    Leave a comment:


  • ashwinprakas
    replied
    Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

    Originally posted by Shreeni0403 View Post
    Is the rear apache shocks and p135 having same height ?

    I'm looking to replace my ZMR shocks and looking for little taller ones than stock but not very tall.
    No clue about Apache's shocks in comparison to the P135 ones as I've only used the latter. You need to ask Akhil to know more as he'd used it on his ZMA.

    Stock Height: 11 Inches, P220 Shocks are of identical length, 2.2k a Pair.
    +1 Inches: Endurance Shocks on Bajaj Platina Comfortec, 1.5k a Pair
    +2 Inches: Endurance Shocks on Bajaj Pulsar 135LS, 2.2k a Pair
    +4 Inches: Gabriel Shocks on TVS Phoenix, 1.5k a Pair

    Anything over +1 and the main stand won't touch the ground.

    Originally posted by ashishrsa View Post
    As per your suggestion I checked the caliper its not sliding well along it's studds. Sorry to ask but, I don't know what is boots.
    You'd need to rebuild the caliper.

    Boots are the consumable rubber bits other than the Caliper Seals, observe parts 8 and 9 in the below image;



    Do contemplate changing the pins as well if they're grooved.

    If at all there is any confusion it'd be cleared on its own with the help of commonsense after you take the caliper apart, it is just that simple a piece of hardware, the only basic understanding you need to have is that the design is called a floating caliper for a reason.

    When viewed from front, the right side pad was worn out way more than the left pad.
    Ideally they should be evenly worn, so its safe to presume that the caliper isn't sliding/floating as per its design which warrants a rebuild.

    Can you suggest as to how to rebuild the caliper? I thought I will have to replace the caliper if that's what causing all this trouble. I am okay with having to rebuild the caliper just don't know what to tell the mechanic. Also should I get it done from local mechanic or from authorised service center?
    This is a job best done by oneself and for good reason considering the lackluster attitude of mechanics irrespective of whether its FNG's or ASC's and the criticality of the component at hand.

    Sorry If I have asked too much. I don't have very good knowledge about service relating to motorcycles.
    As I said, this isn't complicated at all, all you need is commonsense.

    A thumb rule to follow is to use only 6 point box spanners rather than 12 point ones. And when it comes to torquing a harder metal bolt on a softer metal casing it is only commonsense to use torque moderately. And finally, use threadlocker.

    Cheers,
    A.P.

    Leave a comment:


  • ashishrsa
    replied
    Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

    Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
    If you have accelerated pad wear even with a new rotor then you should be looking at whether the caliper is sliding fine along its studs, if not then you need to inspect and replace consumables i.e boots and lube it properly.
    As per your suggestion I checked the caliper its not sliding well along it's studds. Sorry to ask but, I don't know what is boots.

    Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
    Also have a look at whether both pads have equal wear and tear, if its only one of them that has worn out excessively warranting the change you need to inspect the caliper pins for wear.
    When viewed from front, the right side pad was worn out way more than the left pad.

    Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
    EDIT: Heck! While you have the caliper off why not simply rebuild it with a new major kit. Give the master cylinder some loving as well.

    Ride Safe,
    A.P.
    Can you suggest as to how to rebuild the caliper? I thought I will have to replace the caliper if that's what causing all this trouble. I am okay with having to rebuild the caliper just don't know what to tell the mechanic. Also should I get it done from local mechanic or from authorised service center?

    Sorry If I have asked too much. I don't have very good knowledge about service relating to motorcycles.

    Thank You.

    Leave a comment:


  • Shreeni0403
    replied
    Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

    Originally posted by ashwinprakas View Post
    Rear Shocks are more or less universal when it comes to fitment with the exception of height and price.

    I've installed Pulsar 135 shocks(2.2k a Pair) on a friends ZMA which is about 2 inches taller than stock as we'd installed CBZ-X fork tubes and springs at the front, which is similar height as the ZMR ones but cheaper by a whooping 1.1k per tube, the difference in price of springs are also double but they cost peanuts to begin, then again for some reason anything made for 'Karizma' carries a premium price tag.

    Thanks goes to Akhil for suggesting the same and helping us save a lot of money in the process, speaking of him, he runs Apache shocks on his ZMA, which again are taller than stock.

    Cheers,
    A.P.
    Is the rear apache shocks and p135 having same height ?

    I'm looking to replace my ZMR shocks and looking for little taller ones than stock but not very tall.
    Last edited by Shreeni0403; 08-03-2020, 02:30 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • ashwinprakas
    replied
    Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

    Originally posted by ashishrsa View Post
    I had replaced both the rotor and pads at the same time at authorised service centre, the pads were completely worn out at 5-6 K kilometres. The rotor has got deep groves on it. I like to think this shouldn't have happened in such short span of riding. Now I have replaced the pads with new one. I used 400 grit sandpaper to clean the rotor and then pads were installed. The authorised service centre didn't have the rotor in stock so I guess when these pads wear out I will have to replace both the rotor and pads.
    If you have accelerated pad wear even with a new rotor then you should be looking at whether the caliper is sliding fine along its studs, if not then you need to inspect and replace consumables i.e boots and lube it properly.

    Also have a look at whether both pads have equal wear and tear, if its only one of them that has worn out excessively warranting the change you need to inspect the caliper pins for wear.

    EDIT: Heck! While you have the caliper off why not simply rebuild it with a new major kit. Give the master cylinder some loving as well.

    Ride Safe,
    A.P.

    Leave a comment:


  • ashishrsa
    replied
    Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

    I had replaced both the rotor and pads at the same time at authorised service centre, the pads were completely worn out at 5-6 K kilometres. The rotor has got deep groves on it. I like to think this shouldn't have happened in such short span of riding. Now I have replaced the pads with new one. I used 400 grit sandpaper to clean the rotor and then pads were installed. The authorised service centre didn't have the rotor in stock so I guess when these pads wear out I will have to replace both the rotor and pads.

    Leave a comment:


  • vvk1999
    replied
    Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

    That much of less life surely indicates towards some problem in brake . Check rotor/disc plate condition. Rotor is compatible with Honda hornet 160 . Disc pads u can use of tvs apache rtr . But 5000km pad life is a concern get it rectified then change to new pads

    Leave a comment:


  • ashishrsa
    replied
    Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

    Hi guys, I have a 2005 Hero Honda CBZ Star i know this is a thread for Karizma but i wanted to know your feedback/opinion regarding the front brake pads. I think the Karizma/R and CBZ Star have the same brake pads. I use oem pads which are wearing out very frequently like in 5 thounsand kilometers. So i would like to know from you which brake pads should i go for? Thanks.
    P.S. I am mostly using front brake while riding i was thinking of upgrading brakes in my motorcycle. What would you recomend to replace with which parts? I have replaced the rubber brake hose with a steel braided one. I am thinking of changing the master cylinder.

    Leave a comment:


  • ashwinprakas
    replied
    Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

    Originally posted by theguitarfreak View Post
    Will it be wise to buy a used Karizma R now? I had briefly ridden one in 2011 and loved the ergonomics and smooth engine. Since you get one for pretty cheap these days i wouldn't mind buying one and riding it occasionally and for some long rides. Are parts still available if something goes wrong?
    Buying a ZMA is heart over mind matter.

    It is not economically feasible if you intend to haul ass(ride,break,fix,repeat), way too many panels, parts are expensive, sourcing them is a bit of challenge but you can make do with several alternatives.

    But in the end there's no motorcycle that can replace the ZMA, it oozes character which many motorcycle simply lack.

    I've sold my ZMA when it was nearing the 60k mark on the Odo and I currently have a P220 that's nearing the 60k mark, compared to my ZMA my P220 is the better motorcycle which ever tangible angle you look at it from, be it features, cost effectiveness, spare availability and what not, but I can tell you wholeheartedly that it is a very boring motorcycle and given the chance to go back in time and choose my ZMA over the P220 I would gladly do so.

    So simply put, if your heart aches for one, go for it eyes closed!

    Ride Safe!
    A.P.

    Leave a comment:

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