I own a ZMA R 2012 july model (about 1.7 lac kms on ODO).

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I had an issue of engine oil drain, if I ride speeds above 90. So decided to get the bore changed and also few more things fixed.

Major Changes include

1. Bore kit
2. Gear wheels (2, 3, 4 and 5)
3. Complete body kit apart from fuel tank (Ordered from Safex)
4. Drum plate of rear wheel
5. front Disk and disk pads.

Other misc parts including cables, fuses, plug etc.

More details soon.

"Where there is a will there is a way"

Below are the mentioned items i bought of second hand from bangalore's scrap yard aka 'gujri' in shivajinagar and some new ones

1. ZMR right clutch case(second hand)
2. pulsar 220 oil cooler(second hand) = 1500(inclusive of item 1 & 2)
3.o rings= 45
4. ZMR oil cooler pipes = 750
5. p220 oil cooler pipes=500
6. oil cooler hinges and oil cooler cutting and welding = 300
7. labour chrges= 1500




R&D and mods
1. Had both the left and right clutch case powder coated to silver color as ZMR clutch case is some what golden color. Make sure you have it washed properly before giving out to powder coating my mechanic gave the oil plunged case as it is and the etching process was not carried out properly now the coating is peeling off.
(suggest u keep it as it is wont make much difference)

2. Buy a zmr oil cooler and not p220 as it wont give u an exact fit and as in my case had to install horizontally like p220 and caused impact issues with fender so had to rise the front fork by 1inch (additional cost not mentioned).go for vertical arrangement by welding a clamp and mounting the oil cooler vertically giving you better cooling. I couldnt as i had already installed crash gaurd and fog lamps. Also it will save u amount on p220 oil cooler pipes


3. The zmr does not have kicker so had to cut the kicker shaft yet leave it engaged with gears as gears wont engage without this shaft and zmr clutch case does not have provision for its housing so here on ur bike will become kicker less.

So after all the trial and error my bike looked something like shown in the attached images.
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PS. THIS PROJECT WAS DONE BY ME USING A SKILLED MECHANIC AT MY OWN RISK SO SHOULD ANYONE WHO WANTS TO DO THIS MODIFICATION ON HIS.

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Hi there co-XBHPIAN i have already replied on this thread with images. Regarding your 09 R model i suggest you to a step by step engine flush using a good quality engine flush, then use a semi synthetic oil preferably shell ax7 10w40 for a try and a proper vehicle tune up from a skilled mechanic to reduce engine heat problems, roughness and vibration of engine if any before thinking of going for the mod.

PS : I did this mod on my bike as i am a vivid motorcycle traveller and use my bike for long travells which involves the engine runnning at high rpm for a prolonged period.If you are travelling for short distances no need for this mod as karizma is detuned version of honda crf 230 and has proved its mettle internationally.

You own 3 Karizmas?

Hi. I'm gonna get my chain & pads replaced this week. But before that I just need some confirmation that it is the issue, coz I'm gonna spend about 3k.

Please view the video I posted with engine sound, and kindly let me know if this a sound from a bad chain or a if a valve clearance might solve the problem. This video was recorded after a short ride so the engine is warm enough.





Many Thanks!

Hi. I'm gonna get my chain & pads replaced this week. But before that I just need some confirmation that it is the issue, coz I'm gonna spend about 3k.

Overheating of a air cooled engine could mean anything actually - from a Lean AFR ratio, to high ambient temperature, to even engine oil that needs replacement, or in your case chain rubbing against the pads. Even carbon in the head could cause hot spots. Air cooled engines are very robust and can withstand a lot of heat. However, if you notice anything out of ordinary do get it checked out

Thanks a ton, brother. I'll do as you said and will keep you updated.

My bike does not leak any oil I can guarantee that. I had the O rings changed fairly recently. However, I have not yet observed how much oil engine is drinking. I'll check that. I used Shell 10w40 synthetic oil which should ideally last upto 4-5k kms and I did it fairly recently like a few weeks back. But I can confirm that the engine does overheat after say about 20+kms of city ride in Bangalore to the point where I can feel it on my legs. Is that normal or trouble?
I'll observe the oil level today and will get back to you.

Thank you once again for your quick responses.

If there are no other symptoms other than noise, I think it should be fine for a few months. However, do keep checking the oil level at least once a week. If the piston and piston rings have slightly gone bad, you may not notice any change in performance most of the time. Checking the oil level will ensure that engine is not starved and chances of engine overheating and seizing is reduced. I have had cases in my RTR wherein some of the oils burned more than others, esp synthetic ones. In case the valve guides are worn out, they could leak too, and let oil into the combustion chamber. If the bike smokes while deceleration, chances are valve guides are gone.

Cam: known as camshaft is driven by the cam or timing chain and has lobes which push the valves down as per the set durations.

Cam chain and timing chain are the same.

Just go easy on the throttle till you get the head opened and worked upon. If the chain is too loose, it could skip few teeth and damage the valves & piston. Ask the mechanic to check the condition of the chain by just opening the head cover, without removing the head or the cylinder & piston.

Hi! Thank you for your advice.

Is this something that I need to get done as soon as possible or is it something I can stall for a few months?

Also could you please help me with what you actually meant by cam? Cam chain? Timing chain and cam are different things are they?

Im not thaat techy when it comes to machines sorry for asking too many questions.

I guess the cylinder is fine, like I said pickup is good n running is smooth. And for the smoking part, there was a one off scenario a few days after I had changed my engine oil to fully synthetic where my engine gave out white smoke but never happened again.
I think it could be because the synthetic oil being lighter might have creeped into the combustion chamber. Or you could shed some light on that as well?