Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Will it be wise to buy a used Karizma R now? I had briefly ridden one in 2011 and loved the ergonomics and smooth engine. Since you get one for pretty cheap these days i wouldn't mind buying one and riding it occasionally and for some long rides. Are parts still available if something goes wrong?

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Thank you bro

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

There is a spring that tensions the clutch cam rod to return to its resting position, if you get rid of that spring then the clutch pull will become considerably lighter.

Older motorcycles do not have this spring but I've seen it on Pulsars(Outside Clutch Cover) and ZMA(Inside Clutch Cover), so you could get rid of it.

I've done the same on my P220 cause the clutch was hard AF and it would result in cramps when riding the motorcycle in stop and go traffic, my CT100B doesn't come with that spring from factory.

Only thing to make sure is that you'd need to be prudent with clutch lever free play as the spring won't be there to pull the lever snug against travel.


Periodic replacement is the way to go to avoid the trouble of the cable snapping when least expected.

As for rusting I have a few cables laying outside from last years replacement, none of them have rusted, though there is some oxidation of sorts noted near the open ends of the cable. But then I change control cables once a year so they might not have gone through enough wear and tear to exhibit rusting.

If at all you plan on keeping cables until they snap it would be best of you could keep a Vespa/Rickshaw, clutch cable inner and lock under your seat.





Costs about 50ish for the cable and 10ish for the lock form Bajaj RE spares outlet, the best part is that its universal, as in I've seen enthusiasts use this replace snapped throttle cables as well in emergencies.

Never M-Seal.

As for O rings, if you go to local spares shops you can get them as an entire set, same is the case for Oil Seals.

Plus you can make do with one that visually resembles your stock O Ring/Seal from a different motorcycle, cause these consumables are mostly generic.



Awesome Share!

Rear Shocks are more or less universal when it comes to fitment with the exception of height and price.

I've installed Pulsar 135 shocks(2.2k a Pair) on a friends ZMA which is about 2 inches taller than stock as we'd installed CBZ-X fork tubes and springs at the front, which is similar height as the ZMR ones but cheaper by a whooping 1.1k per tube, the difference in price of springs are also double but they cost peanuts to begin, then again for some reason anything made for 'Karizma' carries a premium price tag.

Thanks goes to Akhil for suggesting the same and helping us save a lot of money in the process, speaking of him, he runs Apache shocks on his ZMA, which again are taller than stock.

Cheers,
A.P.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Are they direct ZMA??

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Hey buddy nityam here
Castrol power one is also good 10w40
Dont know if it fully synthetic or semi
But i get average of 40-45
And pickup is also very good
Whenever i use my bike to go college which around 50 kms from my home i easily cruise on 80 to 100 km/h with no or very less body vibrating
Just that engine gets heated bit more due to my
Riding thats it..

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Hi buddy,

Plus, it's not their bike.

Trust me, some models like GS150R, Slingshot have hard-notchy gearboxes and a heavy clutch by design/nature. It is something that Suzuki was not able to match with the Hondas - and the reason I do clutchless upshifts. I have pulled-in the clutch of ZMAs/ZMRs parked in my office. They are way much lighter!

I wasn't sure, that's why asked Psr for his thoughts. I prefer replacing the sheathed cable if it starts to run rough or the steel microfibers start coming off (indication that it will snap soon).

See Mark Zimmerman's note below:



I already do easy things like chain adjustment, oil changing and filter replacement. It's a tiny bit difficult for me, I stay in a high-rise apartment. Still am convinced that no-one can work on my bike to perfection like I can. Funnily, I have also learnt to adjust/improvise/compromise - if a O-ring can't be sourced, I shut the leak with Anabond or even M-seal .

Your 8-year bike is in great shape and looking fantastic! Don't ever sell it.

P.S. To all, Mark Zimmerman has written a beautiful book "The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance". Except valve clearance adjustment, all basic theory/practice is discussed. This fool bought it at Amazon, but later found it in the 'net'.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Hi bro,they dont do it as,its difficult for them.At local garages,they take out the old cable,dip it in old engine oil both sides for 2-3 min and put it back,which makes shiter smoother and u r hand dosent pain while shiting hard clutch lever as it will be smooth,and effortlessly u can shift and engine will also feel good.Even a teflon coating in bike body dosent last more than 2-3 months,imagine the continous use of clutch cable,will completely strain out the pre existing lube in the interior clutch wire,hardly even if u put a brand new cable within 3weeks to a month,it will become hard and one more thing,clutch wires passing front of engine and at lower side are exposed to lots of heat and that itself can shrink and make the clutch exterior harder..so lubing once a month will produce grearlt results.U heard cables not to be lubricated??? hahaha,who ever said that wants u to have rough shifts and wants your cable broken at highway or touring..Service centers,all these guys do is clean bike,change oil lube chain,clean air filter +/- clean spark plug.They dont care if engine has hard lever,they dont care if throttle wires are hard,they dont care about cleaning the petrol tank ,injector,fuel pump and throttle body once in a year, they dont care if gear sprockets are worn out or clutch plates are worn out..even tappet adjustment,only for very loud ticking sound,they adjust it,otherwise for minor tappet sound,they eont adjust it( but it must be adjusted).Unless or unti you point out problems to them,they will never do a dedicated work,and even if your bike with mineral oil has run only 1000kms,they will insist to put new oil..So you can tell the ACS guys goodbye and start servicing the bike yourself.Lube cable and drive chain every month, lube the acc cable once in 3 months, change oil regularly.Clean spark plug once in 3 months of 5k kms,clean fuel pump ,tank,injectors,throttle body and sensors if you can once a year.If you use platinum or iridium,u just need to clean then between 6 months to one year.U will save lot of money and will have great satisfaction.Past 5 yrs i doing service myself and have no issues till date even if my bike is 8 yrs old driven 62375 kms

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Sir, you are talking about the Teflon sleeve/sheath? I heard these cables should never be lubricated. I have never seen Suzuki guys at SVC lubing any cable of GS 150/Gixxer 155.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Plus Lubricating before a long trip will make the journey riding super smooth.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Before lubrictating regaularly in 3 years,twice my clutch cable broke..Now i am lubricating every month and since 5 yrs,gear shifts and hand clutcg lever shifts are smooth like butter and my cable never broke..its 5 yrs bro,and still my clutch cable is doing great.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

yeah bro..but that will always keep clutch cable well lubricated l,we can place a small(small dish washing sponge) below the lower clutch cable wire and there wont be any oil problems..yes also if we cover the upper cluct lever metal adjuster,it will be great(my dust lever cover vanished(fell off somewhere and i could never get a replacement for it.)

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

[QUOTE=DrAzlan;1389825]Hi Guys Detailed Exp how to easily lubricate clutch cable.
1)Loose the lock nut and fully screw in the small clutch nut/thread clockwise so that the cable becomes loose(pic 1,2)

Good DIY.

The clutch cable of both Karizma and ZMR have an internal sheath on the inner cable to protect it from rusting...So 99% of the time they do not have rust on inner. However it is the outer which will form small cracks where it bends and , or comes near the engine , and will lead to water ingress and rusting. invariably the outer gets rusted and swells , leading to binding of inner.
Secondly since the cable is downward facing, all the oil used for lubrication will slowly but surely start dripping down at the bottom end of the cable .
Good luck.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Hi Guys Detailed Exp how to easily lubricate clutch cable.
1)Loose the lock nut and fully screw in the small clutch nut/thread clockwise so that the cable becomes loose(pic 1,2)

2)press the clutch housing lever and take out the lower clutch cable(pic 3,4)

3)Use a 12 size spanner below and flat screw driver from above to remove the clutch lever along with wire(pic 5,6,7,8)

4)Use a plastic packet like milk packet or anything else and cut it like a cone and put a small opening below to make sure the upper cabble fits(pic 9,10,11)

5) Make sure plastic is just below the metal on top and use a rubber band or thread to tie it and put a cap of left over engine oil(pic 12,13,14)

6)hold the plastic with one hand and with the other move the metal component up and down for 2 min so that the oil flows below and leave the wire from top position alone so oil drains to lower level and let it stay 5 min(pic 15,16)

7) Once oil reaches the lower clutch wire,clutch housing area will have oil(pic 17) which means clutch lubrication is complete.

8)Fix back the lower clutch cable followed by upper clutch wire(fix the clutch lever to upper clutch wire so its easy to fix it)(pic 18,19)

9)Make sure u use 3/4th clutch or full clutch (half clutch ruins the clutch plates faster) snd make sure to have a clutch free play of 5mm.

10) wipe of excess oil from below,and u can lubricate lower clutch joins and gear shifter.

11) Job Done on Prince ZMR while King Safari watches on.Stay Home,Stay Safe and dont forget to lubricate your clutch cable for a butter smooth shift experience.

P.S..There were a lot of complaints with karizma, zmr hard gear shifts,difficulty to put neutral,hard gear lever and breaking of clutch wire,the first 3 yr i broke my wire twice once in road,once in highway Service centers never lubricate clutch wire and dont do even if u ask them..But believe me,since last 5 yrs,every month i lubricate the cable and that too under 5 min,following which last 5 yrs since 2015,i havent changed the clutch cable,shufting is butter smooth both at the lever and gear pedal and my wire never broke.This is applicable to all bikes,kindly share this post with all as u dont need to buy 4000rs special tool for lubrication or anyother special costly spray.I hope my post is helpfull.Thanka You and Jai Hind.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Hello Guys and Girls.Today i am going to post a detail procedure with pics which is gonna make any bikes gear shifts like butter..I have been doing this for 5yrs now,but only now since i joined xbhp i will show you by today evening..Wait for it people.

Re: Karizma/Karizma R Ownership Experience

Here is a post on the engine oils used in Karizma Zmr(from best to worst

1)Shell 10w40 Ultra fully synth PROS-(Smooth gear shifts,low engine vibrations,cooler engine and better mileage( exrta 3-7kmpl depending on driving style)Drain interval 5K.CONS-If the bike is very old snd if engine seals are worn a bit,it can cause minor oil leak Cost rs 600-700 (Amazon.in)

2)Motul 300v 10w40 - PROS Holy cow the power and response increased with this oil,it felt the bike was on steroids.The only oil that keeps the engine cool more than any other oil despite harsh driving snd weather conditions.Even after 7500kms,while draining the oil,it was not completely dirty,felt that i could have used it fir 2500kms more.CONS- Sometimes u will feel more engibe vib and harder gear shifts (esters dont do well with hero honda abd suzuki bikes-basically japanese engines).Costly one liter is like rs 1200-1300.New Motul 300V2 has come which has organic components costs like rs 1300-1400 and people who have used it felt smoother engine and gear shifts compared to 300V.

3)Mobil 1 10w40 fully synth -Same as shell but costs rs 1000-1100 per liter.Leaving cost aside i felt Shell Ultra performs a bit better than mobil 1 ,but both are good oils.

4)ZIC SK M9 10W40 Fully Synth- Made in South Korea, supplied by S K lubricants in India.I am currently using this as a friend recomended It.Imediately after changing oil,i felt smooth gear shifts even without lubricating clutch cable.PROS Price,rs 500 for one liter at Amazon.CONS-Yet to find out as i have only drived 300km with it and performs similar to shell ultra and mobil 1

5)Shell Ax7 10w40 semi synth-Pros Good semi synth oil ,lasts 3K Kms,gives 30-40% (performace,mileage ,gear shifts and smooth engine) when compared to fully synth oil.Price Rs 350-400

6) Mobil Super Moto 10w30 semi synth-Mobil launched the new mineral and semi synth oil lines,havent used it,but i got reviews sayin that its on par with shell ax7.Price Rs 399-429 /one liter

7) Motul 10w30 techosynth - Semi synth oil..but harder gear shifts comapred to other semi synth oil and a bit more vibrations.Cons -cost Rs 500-550/liter

8)Shell 10w30 mineral oil- Great mineral oil at low price.Drain interval 2-2.5k.Price 230-270/liter.The better oil compared to mobil,castrol,valvoline and hero4t plus

9)Motul 10w30 mineral oil- Similar to Shell,but harder gear shifts

9)Hero4T plus - Stock oil, ran ZMR with it for 1000kms and shifted to Shell Ultra.Pros -Price rs 198 then..Rs 240-260 now.Even when bike was new,with stock oil,noted a lot of engine heat and bad engine vib at speeds.

10)Hp 10w30,Servo better not to use.

Additionally i have heard good reviews for Liquimoly( price very high) and Motul 5100 and 7100.

Kindly note an engine oil additive is not required for fully synth oil and oil flush is not required.

Drain Intervals 1)Fully Synth-5000-6000kms 2) Semi Synth 3000-4000kms 3) Mineral Oil 2000-3000kms.

If Karizma and Karizma Zmr owners have used other oils,kindly post your opinions.ThankaYou