ESCORTS YAMAHA RX100 6 Volt Details Needed ?

What is the production year of ESCORT YAMAHA RX100 with 6 Volts ?

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

Hi Guys,

This is not RX-specific but since the bike is an RX posting here.

I recently installed RPM meter assembly on my 135. It is the RXZ meter with worm assembly etc. It's fully functional but at idle it shows around 1300 RPM. When I showed it to the mech after the carb clean and tune it doesnt change either.

What are ways to troubleshoot?

This may sound silly but is it because it's brand new and will take time to adjust to the revvs

Thanks,
RX-G

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

Dear RXG124,

The idle RPM can be adjusted when you turn the the idle screw located on the LH side of the carb.
Cleaning the carb and tuning it by means which do not contribute to the change in the RMP at idle is not going to vary the idle RPM.

Idle RPM between 1000 to 1200 is just ideal.

Just a few question for more clarity:

- When you say "its brand new" do you mean that the kit is brand new?
A kit is a kit and irrespective of nominal clearance in gear teeth change would not effect the functionality (if properly installed) and would last for a long time.
- What is the RPM range you are hunting?
- What is the condition of the engine, is it recently rebuild?
- What is the Odo reading if it is a rebuilt engine?
- what is the method you used to tune the carb mate ?

Regards

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

Thanks for that. I've included the responses inline below :

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

Thanks for the clarity. Following your points, my suggestions are listed below:

- The Yamaha overhaul manual reads 1500 +/- 100 RPM after 1000 KM of running-in. Ideally 1200 to 1500 is the most suitable range. This can avoid auto engine cutoff due every time you stop by a traffic light or normal traffic hickups.

- Remember these are mechanical Tacho (RPM) meters assemblies and not the advanced digital type which are tapped from the ECU's. Considering the mechanical functionality of this tacho system, they do a great job right from the first installation until its life (provided the worm and plastic wheel dont break). So dont worry about pre-lube and all. The wheels operate in the transmission oil enclosure :-) and remain lubricated all the time.

- It is good that you showed interest to learn DIY and one must ideally should :-)
5 speed is not way different from 4 speed and considering the tuning remains same for the two stroke motors.
Tuning a single cylinder stock motor (un-modified) with a stock jetted VM 22 round slide / oval slide carb is not a rocket science. And perhaps you have RPM meter, so you may tune the carb more accurately.
If you wish to learn a basic tuning, this way is probably an accurate way to set the carb right:
(Please note, every step in the carb tuning requires patience and tuning must be done in small increments)
(Please also note that, these carb settings are for engine which are averagely / fairly good in condition and have average compression with no air leaks throughout the fluid circuit)

- Ideally one would start with the a clean carb. Which includes cleaning the carb outer body first. Then disassembling the carb completely and take all the jets and nozzles out including the rubber parts. Use a cab degreasing agent (aerosol spray) and flush through all the venturies and openings. Rubber parts must not be allowed to come in contact with the aerosol spray.

- Use pressurized air to clear all the inlets and other openings on the carb. This will make sure the tiny little orifices are cleared of any remaining dust or grease.

- Before the carb is assembled, make sure the float height remains at factory settings. The factory value is 22.50 +/- 1 mm.

- Basic rule of initiating carb tuning, first let the engine attain its optimum operating temperature. Which means, ride for 4-5 kms and let the engine come to its operational temperature. Tuning the carb in cold engine condition does not make any sense and will only lead to incorrect measurement and inconsistent results.

- Park the bike on the main stand on a flat surface.

- Turn the air screw fully clockwise (untill it is completely closed and does not turn any further). Note, as you turn the air screw fully clockwise, the RPM will gradually drop and engine may tend to cutt-off. To avoid this situation, set the idle screw so that the engine idles slightly on higher RPMs.

- Wait for a while till the engine settles out. From here on you must start listening to the engine RPM response/sound very carefully. The tacho would help you to a certain extent here.

- Now you need to start turning the air screw in quarter turn increment anti-clockwise.
(Please note increments should be made in quarter turn (preferably) and each increment must be recorded).

- As you make the first quarter turn anti-clockwise, wait for the a while. You will notice the RPM will increase.

- Wait for 2 - 3 minutes, before you make the next anti-clockwise quarter turn. You will notice the RPM further increases as you make the increments.

- Every increment must have a gap of 2-3 minutes, as it lets the engine settle and gives you exact/accurate response.
You will see RPM significantly increases as you keep turning the air screw anti-clockwise in increments. (You may want to be careful of neighbors :-) )

- There will be one point when you turn the air screw quarter turn and the engine RPM starts reducing. This is the sweet spot.

- This is the point you must stop turning the air screw.

- Use the idle screw to set the appropriate idle RPM (preferably 1200) and you are good to go.


- Please note, this sweet spot is usually achieved in 1.75 to 2.25 rotations of air screw rotations.

- Please also note, if you do not achieve the engine RPM drop with the above settings - Which means you need a bigger pilot jet.


Give a throttle blip and see the engine response. It must sound crisp.

Happy Riding !!

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

It is a 3KA20 block and 28 mm carb

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

Thanks for giving such a nice usefull information step by step,

I wants to share more information from my experience, if i am wrong you can correct me.

This setting is good for short interval rides within city where rider ride on low RPM, and bike will give good average,

But most of the RX riders run the bike fast whenever they get the clear road or on highways, but on high RPM engine will get less petrol on this setting and engine can knock and overheat, it can harm the block piston. And bike will not get good top speed.

Turn the air screw quarterly clockwise after getting the sweet spot, which will make the carburetor setting little rich, Which gives the engine good performance on high RPM and good top speed,

Average may be decrease little bit but it is good for engine life.

Little rich carb setting is always better for two stroke engine.

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

Hi I'm new to this forum. Recently I made my Yamaha RX 135 ridable and planning to use it regularly again. My bike is 2000 early model and I stopped / parked it around year 2009. It got rusted and I restored it to showroom condition in year 2013 and ridden 4000 kms and again parked at shed. The bike again got rusted at the duplicate parts such as both mudguards and headlight rim. Wheel rims are ok.

Now, my random questions are:

1.

My bike Fitness Certificate is not done as on date. As mine is 2000 model the due date is December 2015 but I didn't do as I didn't ride this bike. My bike is in Tamilnadu registration but now I'm living in Bangalore. Can I drive my bike in Bangalore without FC? What are the consequences?

2.

If I complete the FC for my bike at Tamilnadu (need to take back and do at my home town - but my friend is the RTO there), what are all the documents I should carry while driving this bike in Bangalore? (Is there anything else other than DL, RC, insurance and emission test certificate?) What are all the documents in original and what are all I can keep photocopies?

3.

Otherwise, can I do FC in Bangalore / Karnataka? Is it permitted and possible? ( I do not have NOC from Tamilnadu).

4.

If I take out my bike for doing emission test or transporting to my home town (riding from my home to Bus stand or railway station) will the police may cheese my bike on the way?

Pls answer my y dumb questions.

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

ANS 1. No you cant drive it legally in banglore /anywhere in india ,if you are caught bike will be siezed.

ANS 2.If your friend is in RTO he can do your work easily ,rest all the documents you have mentioned are enough to complete the process.

ANS 3.No you cannot renew your FC in banglore
you have to go to TN without NOC.

ANS 4.If police stops you for checking for any valid reason, if you show them the RC ,they will se that fitness is expired then your bike will be siezed.
But I dont think police randomly stop anyone who is following traffic rules.

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

Bro, Thanks for the reply.

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

i need a block and piston set for my rx 100... Any idea from where i could get it?? Im from Mumbai

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

Hello in a worst case scenario can I use 20-40 oil as a substitute for 2t? Considering my geographical locatoin it is slighltly difficult to come across 2t oil at all times.

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

No
4t is too thick. and u'll get white smoke like a fogging machine. 4t is not meant to be combusted in the cylinder.
The differences between a 2-stroke and a 4-stroke engine are significant, and those differences demand different properties from the lubricant. Lubrication of the 2-stroke system requires a fluid that will form a tenacious film that will not be evaporated and will create a protective layer of oil over the entire piston surface. Unlike a 4-stroke engine, there is no oil submersion in a 2-stroke machine, so the film strength is one of the more important properties of a 2-stroke oil. It needs to withstand the heat and combustion of the fuel without burning and also needs to be able to clean the parts that may have carbon deposits or gummy residues left over from poor combustion or less effective lubricants. Since the thin film of lubricant is the only thing to stop the piston rings from grinding into the cylinder walls, these lubricants must be capable of protecting against high levels of pressure during the stroke of the piston.

Certain 2-stroke lubricants are diluted with solvents to make them “clean burning” and provide “deposit control.” This is usually done to compensate for the lack of performance in the base fluid used. Since solvents tend to be highly flammable, the presence of them in the oil will also alter the combustion within the chamber. These solvents will alter the octane of the fuel and act as an impurity, causing detonation. Engines are designed to combust fuel, not the fuel and the extra flammables you’ll find in low quality lubricant products. The added combustion of part of the lubricant can result in a poor running engine or even engine failure.

Get a big can of 2t oil for your use.

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

^got it now I have another question apart for indonesia and india was the rx 135 sold globally? I wanted to change my CDI to racing one or some sort, I have changed stock carb to the VM 26 and I was looking for an appropiate CDI. I am not sure the stock CDI would handle the larger jets/carb. I had found this in Amazon, but considering india, this seems to be a chinese/filipino import which is super inflated. https://www.amazon.in/s/ref=nb_sb_no...rds=rx+135+cdi

Re: Random Questions regarding the RX series

Guys do you know where to source RD350 us specs body parts online ? ( Stanley)