Re: KB100 RTZ - 18 yr old - Restore

Topic Approved

Re: KB100 RTZ - 18 yr old - Restore

best of luck for your rebuild

Re: KB100 RTZ - 18 yr old - Restore

Consolidating my messages in other threads as well as the responses here.
<<these are about 2 month old messages>> Oldest first

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So, here is where things stand.

1. Engine: Runs, high idling 4000 rpm. Block is oily, so leaking. Engine sound isn't neat, there's a lot of clatter.
2. Electricals: are shot though headlamp and one indicator works.
3. Instrument cluster: Speedo & RPM meter work. Lights and fuel gauge don't.
4. Suspension: Front forks are an oily mess, so they are likely shot. Rear shocks, I don't know. Likely gone, 18 years old.
5. Tyres: front looks ok. Rear needs replacement. Rear tyre wobbles too.

What I've done in last 2 weekends:
1. Changed the plug. Couldn't find NGK B7 ES. The shop owner gave me Bosch F002 G40 265 with 8mm gap. Is this ok?
2. The RTZ roared to life on the 5th kick, after more than 2 years. Idling at 4000 rpm. Too high !!
3. While opening the fuel tank, the jammed lock broke. Force opened it.
4. While turning the jammed fuel tap lock, broke the fuel tap assy.
5. Removed tank, cleaned it as best as I could to remove some rust (vinegar + Baking soda mix) & the broken lock pieces.

Purchased: Minda wiring kit. (existing wiring is in a mess), Tank lock, Fuel tap & the Bosch plug.

I know the engine requires work and possibly transmission/gearbox too. But dont know how to proceed.
Mechanics say - saar bike de do, ready karke dega - even though they hardly recognize it.

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kb100's response to above message

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before you start the tear-down , get all the parts required, the bare minimum required is , engine gasket kit, o-ring kit, and oil seal kit, if the compression is too low you will need a re-bore that will amount to the next oversize piston , if your connecting rod is worn out and has developed play then you will have to at-least go for a new con-rod ,then you will have to replace the bearings , just remove the old ones note down the no and get them from the local skf or nrb dealer works out cheaper and better, then there is the cosmetic bits, chroming ,plating buffing etc ,new tires , since you are in blr parts are gonna be expensive if you buy it from the shops , if you buy them from the good Samaritans here of from facebook whow will be triying to "help fellow 2 stroke enthusiasts" it will be expensive x 2 or its higher multiples.

Please , whatever you do do not open up the bike without having the bare min of parts in hand, and for god sake dont dump the bike at some mechs place and after
6 months start moaning about getting ripped off, have patience get the parts first , find a mech you can trust, (if such a thing exists) and then start the build.

you can down load the workshop manual posted by psr sir and the parts cataloge from a few pages back this will help you with gettint the parts and the rebuild

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My response to above message

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Thanks for your response kb100.
Yes that's the idea - get parts first, then start engine work. And do the work myself.

Ofcourse, manual is downloaded, but not able to find the parts list in any of previous pages (there's an old link, which doesn't work anymore)

Cosmetic later, first I want the bike to run and sound crisp new.

OK, so here's the list of parts I need (initial list):

1. Engine Gasket Kit – Part# 30101024 (incl. Gaskets for Head Cylinder & Engine Block)
2. O-Ring Kit –
3. Oil Seal Kit – Pioneer brand (6-7 seals)
4. Connecting Rod – part#? any alt part? (no mention in the link at the bottom of your message)
5. Engine Bearings – SKF/NRB. (is this a kit or only 6204/c3)
6. New electricals - Ignition Coil, CDI, Rectifier.
7. Carb Boot - where can I get this? mine is all hard and cracky.
8. Air Filter - will make the sponge part myself.
9. Oils - Gear Oil - SAE10W 40 or SAE20W 40, Fork Oil - SAE5W 20
10. Clutch Plate - Part# DD101099

Questions:
1. How do I know whether the oil pump is working?
2. Alt part for front & rear shocks (exact fit)?

Thank you again.

Regards

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kb100's response to above message

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for the rear shocks go for the sns units from discover cheap and best also a direct fit

front shocks im assuming the fork inner tubes , go for caliber ones with springs its a direct fit

as for the oil pump , forget the oil pump

bearings have to be bought individually

Re: KB100 RTZ - 18 yr old - Restore

KB100 parts catalog

CON ROD KIT: there is a brand called MB they make con rods for the kb in various over sizes

Bearings: 6204/c3 is the bearing no for the main bearings only (2 nos) you can get these from any bearing dealer just tell him the bearing no and the brand

Re: KB100 RTZ - 18 yr old - Restore


Hi kb100, thank you for the advice.
The SNS shocks from Discover dont look like the originals (Munjal Showa). I am trying my best to keep everything same as possible. Is Munjal Showa shocks available?

Re: KB100 RTZ - 18 yr old - Restore

not sure if the munjal showa ones are still available , if not go for the gabriel /armstrong units for the caliber

Lack of tools is really killing me, apart from lack of knowledge about how to do even the basics. (And I am quite determined not to go to a mechanic, not that I will find a good KB mechanic anyway)
Anyhow, listing them here, and do chip in with your advice.


There are tonnes such questions. Will keep updating as things move.

cheers

Re: KB100 RTZ - 18 yr old - Restore


for tools , please get yourself an impact driver , with out which do not even think of touching the engine you will strip the screw heads

Re: KB100 RTZ - 18 yr old - Restore



I used to pick up and drop my mom to and from office using this bike. That was like 10 or maybe 11years ago. The bike belonged to my dad's friend. Amazing sound and seating position.

Just my 2 cents if you are looking to do a DIY paint job. I've done it on my Pulsar. You may want to take a look. Good luck mate! Keep posting.

Re: KB100 RTZ - 18 yr old - Restore

hehe.
now I have a impact driver, but i opened my engine case screws before that and stripped every 4-head in the process.
Amazon.com: TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece: Home Improvement

thankfully have got a engine screw kit for KB100, so will be able to screw things back ok.

thanks

Re: KB100 RTZ - 18 yr old - Restore

where can we get the rear plastic fairing (whatever it is called) here in Bangalore?? -- The plastic piece which is below the seat the the back, just above the tail light?

Do you know? I have taken my KB out from the garage & noticed that it is all cracked & broken. I can try to fix it with quikfix, but want to have a new piece, if I can buy 1.

Re: KB100 RTZ - 18 yr old - Restore

blue_maniac

Are you referring to the painted plastic piece or the unpainted black coloured plastic.
In any case, I am told that they cannot be found. Try hunting around at old bike mechanic shops, they may have scrap KBs lying from which you can take these plastic pieces.
Though I am not optimistic, KBs are full of plastics/fibre stuff and these age badly (unlike RX's metal stuff).

cheers

Re: KB100 RTZ - 18 yr old - Restore

Oh bad luck. I am referring to the unpainted plastic part (body colored plastic) which covers the open space between the seat (rear) and the mudguard. I too felt we will not be able to find a spare. I guess I should look around, even though I am not very optimistic of finding it.

BTW, I managed to start the bike today, after 5 years & it started after some 8-10 kicked (Thrilled). Brakes are in a pretty bad condition. Fork oil is leaking at one end. Else, no other leaks. Petrol smells awful (expected after 5 years). The tires were semi flat. Just pumped some air & it seem to hold fine till evening meaning its fine. Emitting an awful lot of smoke, but that is normal I suppose for a 1992 model bike which is under zero maintenance.

Re: KB100 RTZ - 18 yr old - Restore

take the plastic part to a patch work shop /body shop (where they patch up car bodies) ask them to fabricate one for you out of metal (preferably aluminium) its the best path to take and you wont have to worry about it ever again