The pump will NOT supply the same ratio in different conditions! Why on earth would you need the auto-lube system if the same ratio is the best in all conditions? The ratio WILL vary greatly when you are using the pump.
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Are you sure it was a fault with the pump? It just might have be the pipes etc. Maybe they were not bled properly and had air bubbles in them? Maybe contamination entered the oil tank... or the pipes themselves were dirty when they were fixed or something? Mechanics are notoriously careless about such things. The pipes themselves can crack/leak etc, if too old/not of the best quality. Often mechs. dont bother to even replace the clips or whatever you call them, at the ends.Originally posted by pk28.karthik View Post
The pump will NOT supply the same ratio in different conditions! Why on earth would you need the auto-lube system if the same ratio is the best in all conditions? The ratio WILL vary greatly when you are using the pump.
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3% is good enough for mineral based oil..With motul 800 2t I run 12-15ml per litre on the drag bike..runs like a charm and no bad wear on the liner yet..And yes the drag bike sees redline in all gears above 9500rpm
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i have gone thru that phase recently.Originally posted by gsferrari View PostI
autolube has definite benefits but it is unfortunate that a simple failure of of Rs 1000 or so component can result in catastrophic engine failure.
am plannin the same on my bike but if its gonna improve then am at it at the earliestOriginally posted by gsferrari View PostI on the RD the pump is removed completely and the cables cut off so throttle action is easier as well.
Btw according to the link we have to run 50ml oil for a litre of petrol. one thing to see is the petrol rating they have and ours. these things always confuse.
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I run 2% mix in my RD and havent decided on the ratio for the TZR yet but I want at least 50% of full load lube requirement to be in premix form.Originally posted by pk28.karthik View Post@gsferrari
dont you think you are running too rich mixture?
autolube has definite benefits but it is unfortunate that a simple failure of of Rs 1000 or so component can result in catastrophic engine failure.
on the RD the pump is removed completely and the cables cut off so throttle action is easier as well.
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+1 that.Originally posted by gsferrari View PostI'd really much rather protect my engine than depend on a 20+ year old mechanical pump to function properly.
regarding the problem with my oil pump , when riding with sane speeds(which we dont) oil flow was perfect. when redlining the pump used to get choked for unknown reason. why take risk with a faulty pump?
there is a thread somewhere here discussing the same issue whether to use pump or pre mix...i have lost track of it but we could try searching it for this topic.
as far as my bike , i will be using pre mix.
if this is the case then the link i have provided mentions the ratio 20:1 parts in any case. so going by that at any riding style the oil and petrol mixture should be same right? so even the pump should supply the same ratiosFact is, you dont require that much 2t unless the engine is pushed to the limit... ie in conditions of high load and high speed. The oil pump is there because it supplies a much more realistic amount of 2t. A correctly adjusted pump means your bike will invariably consume less 2t oil than when using a pre-mix!
@gsferrari
dont you think you are running too rich mixture?
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Well, its your bike... do that if it makes you feel better.
As for me, I'm not gonna retire my oil pump anytime soon.
Just one question - have you just left your oil pump to run dry by not putting oil in the 2t tank... or something else?
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Nope...it doesn't. But I'd really much rather protect my engine than depend on a 20+ year old mechanical pump to function properly. Even on the TZR I play to run 20ml premix with 20ml max coming out of the pump. Worst case...I limp home with a un-shagged motor.
The trouble with autolube is that it works well...and fails horribly!
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Complete (or "full" as you mentioned) combustion does not happen in our engines.... and most definitely not in 2 stroke engines!!Originally posted by gsferrari View PostGunking up of engine and exhaust will happen only if your ignition is not producing sufficient spark to fully burn the fuel-oil-air mix. I run ONLY premix and I have disconnected my autolube completely. Much safer for my engine and at 20ml per liter of fuel - very clean burning.
Of course I am using Motul 800 so YMMV with other oils...
Anyway, you are using an Easter based oil which will burn much cleaner than the oil pk28.karthik is using. Even in your case, you would have to buy less of that very expensive Motul oil if you use a pump!
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^^^Dude, with pre-mix, you are using the max possible 2t oil in all conditions. Fact is, you dont require that much 2t unless the engine is pushed to the limit... ie in conditions of high load and high speed. The oil pump is there because it supplies a much more realistic amount of 2t. A correctly adjusted pump means your bike will invariably consume less 2t oil than when using a pre-mix!
More oil means more pollution (wheter you can see it or not), less power, more expense, more chance of fouling your plug, and more deposits in your engine and exhaust system.
All the above problems are addressed by a good oil pump. Probably someone screwed up your pump or its feed lines (maybe your mechanic?) or something else went wrong... but generally they are quite reliable. Did you try to find out what went wrong with the pump, btw? I'd suggest you fix or replace it. Yamaha put that pump there for a good reason!
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Gunking up of engine and exhaust will happen only if your ignition is not producing sufficient spark to fully burn the fuel-oil-air mix. I run ONLY premix and I have disconnected my autolube completely. Much safer for my engine and at 20ml per liter of fuel - very clean burning.
Of course I am using Motul 800 so YMMV with other oils...
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"gunk up your engine and exhaust faster"- more light onthis please.Originally posted by Raccoon View PostI remember seeing sachets of Idemitsu and Servo (IOCL) amongst others, at an oil shop, sometime back.
Btw, have you tried Gulf 2t?
Dude, using pre-mix will gunk up your engine and exhaust faster. Also, your bike will be polluting more. More possibility of plug fouling too. Oil pumps are much more efficient...
i have heard mixed responses about this.
i had a bad experience with oil tank and pump. so switched to pre mix.
and regarding pollution, there is no visible smoke at all.
never tried gulf 2t but once used yamalube did not find much difference with mak.
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I remember seeing sachets of Idemitsu and Servo (IOCL) amongst others, at an oil shop, sometime back.Originally posted by pk28.karthik View Postfor my rx100 a normal mak 2t is doing the job.i mix oil with petrol and not using the side oil tank anymore after a horrible incident which made me lose my engine.
i felt engine smoother with mak than with jettx. just my opinion though.
my bike is not modified and my mech suggests MAK for a stock setup bike.
Do we get other 2t oils in 30ml,60ml packets? would like to check those out.
Btw, have you tried Gulf 2t?
Dude, using pre-mix will gunk up your engine and exhaust faster. Also, your bike will be polluting more. More possibility of plug fouling too. Oil pumps are much more efficient...
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i dont know it fits here.i found this while browsing. hope this will be of some help.
Dan's Motorcycle "2-Stroke Oil "
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for my rx100 a normal mak 2t is doing the job.i mix oil with petrol and not using the side oil tank anymore after a horrible incident which made me lose my engine.
i felt engine smoother with mak than with jettx. just my opinion though.
my bike is not modified and my mech suggests MAK for a stock setup bike.
Do we get other 2t oils in 30ml,60ml packets? would like to check those out.
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Why don't you try it and let us know? If its synthetic, it can't be that bad. How much does it cost for a liter?Originally posted by _keerthy View PostIs there anybody who have tried Agip synthetic 2t? I cant find Motul here in CBE. But i can find Agip.
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