Re: Tyres

can anyone suggest me what to do with my Impulse.. I am sick and tired of it. It suffers from terrible wheel wobble, is unstable at all speeds ranging from 20 till 100, and being a tube-type tyre with no centre stand is a combination from hell. not only will you be stranded in the middle of nowhere, you will get a hernia trying to remove the wheel helping the puncturewala.

the rear rim + drum was changed under warranty in feb 2013 after the spokes came off during riding. yup.

even then problems have persisted. i have spent money on wheel truing, repair, adjustment, almost every two three months with no avail. serviced brakes, scrubbed shoes, tightened chain, nothing works.

I now want to fit tubeless tyres and alloys. is it possible? I have done around 22k Km on my stock CEAT Gripp-XL and there is still quite a bit of tread as it is a knobby pattern tyre, but the rubber is quite hard, and cracks are visible in the surface. the tyres have tolerated delhi's scorching heats and deadly winters for two years, and after two years in delhi they have faces bangalore's terrible roads and at least 5 punctures and 2 tube changes.

Impulse is a study in peculiarness. front wheel is 90/90 x 19 rear is 110/90 x 17 (Basically quite high profile chunky tyres which look really nice)

How do I approach this problem. I am ready to go for a rear disc brake as well if it makes fitting alloys easier. Hero ASCs stay away from Impulse like plague. I was thinking of using Xtreme's 18-inchers, desperately need some expert opinion on this guys. I am worried for my own safety.

Re: Tyres

Here is where the problem lies.... the people fixing your bike are wrong! tyre wobble can be due to a plethora of reasons ranging from suspension miss alignment to even uneven tyre where (which will point another issue).... first and formost get a mainstand... the ones used for r15s and cbrs etc... next post pics of the rims upclose and at a distance. to know whether the rims are bent... press the front of the bike.. have someone do it... and spinn the rear wheel and sit behind it and look at it.... how does it spinn? clear or wobbly? Does the centre axel wobble or its just the rim surface? Next.. do the same for the front wheel. Also the impulse has a manufacturing defect with refrence to the front suspension.. extensively discussed on the impulse ownership thread. Judt replacing parts without diagnosis of what the problem is will not solve the issue and hurt your pocket.
Also do you offroad or just pure tarmac use? I will suggest you tyres and rims accordingly.

Divyansh....

Re: Tyres

thanks for the reply divyansh

I know, but I am not an expert either. The thing is, ASCs will try and shy away from everything, I have raised the exact same points as you and they will check on their own, or send a 'specialist' on a merry test ride and then go on to say everything is alright it's just the wheels. The maximum they will do is adjust the spokes while the tyres are still on, the bike rides fine for say 100Km and then it is the same story.

Finally I went to a so-called wheel specialist itself, as with everything in Bangalore his fees was also exorbitant, but since he runs a dedicated spoke-wheel sale/repair/truing shop and 9/10 people I asked told me to see him I went there. His diagnosis also was that the rim needs adjustment, suspension, handlebar, coneset etc are okay.
The rear tyre has uneven wear on the studded pattern, bus as per him it would be corrected as now the rims are fine.

After around two weeks of that 3-hour long session, I am back to square one.

My use is pure tarmac and whatever monstrosity u can name the Bangalore's roads. Many patches are potholes from hell but I slow down and very carefully tackle them. So it would be safe to say that it is not my abuse that has made the motorcycle behave this way. The reason I want tubeless is that I cannot carry a paddock stand everywhere, and tube-tyre+puncture experiences have made me absolutely give up any long ride plans I had.

Re: Tyres

Uneven tyre wear is suggesting a miss alignment somewhere. You say the work done by the rim and spoke seater solved the issue for sometime but it returned so the issue is with the spokes and rims but they might not be the root cause. I believe its an alignment issue somewhere. Did the bike have a crash? The axel should be inspected when pulled out... roll it between your palms... feels straight or any bends or bumps can be felt? rock the rear wheel left and right when the bike is off the ground to check for any wobble... will point out towards worn swingarm bushes...even suspension bushes... uneven wear on brake pads(rear) will suggest a non centred brake... take the bike to a yamaha asc or a bajaj asc... talk to the manager there and ask him if his mechanics can simply point out the issues taking the bike up on a paddock stand...dont have to fix them...(r15, p200ns) pay the mech 100rs for checking and pointing out the issues... will help you... since you are unable to diagnose it yourself.

Now,
Taking into account that if "?" it is just a spoke and rim issue...
Here is what you need to do.. and I know this is not the best advice or the best method but given your situation thats all you can do. Get a 18 inch rim for the tvs feiro and get the spokes as well.(rear) (tvs fiero had the best spokes and rims quality and the chrome was of the highest grade) Retain the original hub. For the front wheel finding 19inch tyres is a mess but changing size will mess with your speedo readings and the chassis dynamics.... since your usage is pure tarmac dont go for offroad tyres. Get a michelin sirac steeet 100/18 for the rear and for the front get the mrf tyre that comes with the new re thunderbird 350 uce. Front rims and spokes from the re can also be used....Both the tyres are excellent on tarmac and fairly puncture resistant. Tubeless tyres would be the best bet but cant be used with spokes and the rear brake design and hub design will prevent you from finding "perfect" alloys for your ride. Try sourcing an anti puncture liquid...will help vastly... also there is a desi jugaad technique that helps prevent minor punctures but I am afraid some people might find it a safety hazard. I will suggest it anyways. Get a can of black oil paint... dont dilute it at all... paint the inside of the new rim with it (multiple coats) and also the inner well of the new tyre!(yes you read it right) leave it to dry off..(i used a hair dryer stolen from mum for quick drying)... multiple coats are necessary at least 3... now cut your old tube with a blade right from the middle. Get rid of the old tubes air valves pipe etc... just retain a rubber ring made from the old tube. Put this on the new tube..like a jacket and then install it in the new tyre and rim painted from inside... yes its a tidious job. But.... prevents rusting of rim for years to come and also minute punctures... I never got a puncture 15 thousand kms with this setup....then the tyre went bald and I had to replace all of it any ways. See if this helps..... or else wait a few months il be coming down to blore in jan or so ill be ur mechanic then lol jokes apart. Relax...! donr give up. The bike is a gem and yes its a nautankibaaz girlfriend...understand its ways it will be a reliable wife. feel free to keep posting queries and issues as many tines as you like. Post pictures if the hub and bike from different angles near and afar....will help spot issues maybe.

Divyansh....

Re: Tyres

Had posted this in the wrong segment so here it is again.

I bought my NS in Dec 2013, and it's about 10000kms on the odo. How long did your tyres last before you had to change them?

I know most of you have changed the Euroslips in the beginning itself but I'm asking from someone who's used the tyres.

And I'm thinking about upgrading anyway. So I've thought of Michelin Pilot Street 140/70-17 for the rear. I'm still confused about the front. Someone told me that I shouldn't upsize the front tyre because then I would have handling issues. How far is this true? If I upsize, then it'd be an easy choice because I'll just pick up the Michelin set. But if upsizing will be a problem, then I need to know which would be the best option for the front.

Thanks in advance.

Re: Tyres

Cant comment on how long they will last... what I can comment on is the wee upsize up front... (with reference to cross section) try reducing down 4 to 5 psi pressure in the front tyre you have right now... now ride this... an upsize will feel similar. understand this that the upsize wont be as slushy as an under inflated tyre, but you will get this heavy and planted feeling upfront... that will inspire confidence under hard braking and long leaning turns... then again it will rob you of quick acceleration and even quicker direction changes..... the best ns I rode had the r15v2 front tyre with a pirelli sport demon at the back..... man that thing gripped like a leach. I hope I have been able to write down what it feels like to upsize.

Divyansh....

Re: Tyres

behalf of a friend, he owns a tvs apache rtr 160. he wants to change his rear tyre since it has less grip in wet condition. please can somebody suggest good tyre for his rtr...that will increase stability and gripping

Re: Tyres

Hey buddy I bought my NS in Sept last year and just upgraded my tyres last month to the same Michelins 140 soft compounds you are considering. 2 things about the rear tyre - 1. the fact that you will get more grip from a fatter tyre which is also soft compound is obvious, the better part though, the fatter rear section adds to the otherwise unsubstantial rear end of the bike. 2. Be prepared to experience a decrease in the frantic acceleration of the bike, coz u will be upgrading from the standard 130 section which is the recommended width for the NS. Sadly Michelin pilot sporty doesnt make a 130 rear section last i checked on their website.

For the front you can get the same spec Michelins as standard.

If u r willing to stand a slight drop in acceleration go for the rear 140 Michelin.

Re: Tyres

I'm not looking at the pilot sporty. I'm looking at the Pilot Street Radial. Big difference.

My friends have told me that the handling becomes much better and gives confidence while leaning

Re: Tyres

Hello there.... can you please tell us whether his rtr 160 has 18 inch rears or 17 inchers... since the 160 came with both.... now... if its the 17inch ones... just ask him to get the r15 v1 rear tyre or a ceat vertigo or a ceat gripp all 100/17....... nothing better.... if its the 18 inch one..ask him to source 110 secrion tyre from the new cbz or a ceat vertigo again..100/18 this time.

Divyansh....

Re: Tyres

Hey thankz for the reply. His rear is a 17 incher . since we live in Bangladesh, ceat tyres would be hard to locate , we sort of end up mrf or dunlop always. So my friend, what mrf tyre would you recommend ? Also kindly if you could tell which tyre is found in r15 v1 ? Best regards

Re: Tyres

The stock size of the rear tyre of the new RTR is 110/80 17
You can get mrf zapper c in that section but if you dont mind upsizing you can go for zapper vyde
I am currently using a 120 section vyde at the rear and it performs really well but on tarmac only.
You will notice some drop in acceleration in the lower revs but still its not that much.

Sent from my GT-S7262 using xBhp Connect mobile app

Re: Tyres

Duke tyres.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using xBhp Connect mobile app

Re: Tyres

Thanks bro. I'd love to give it a try to Ceat Zoom XL. Seems like it is more durable than MRF Revz-S and a lot better wet grip than Eurogrip.

Re: Tyres

welcome.

it should be. because MRF Rev-s is soft compound tyre and hence the life. but as said in the post, you will have longer gear.