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Guys, I have a few queries.
What is the difference between 17" and 18" tyres? Some bikes have 17" while others have 18" tyres. What difference does it make in terms of handling, pickup, mileage, etc.
Can we fit 18" tyres on a bike meant for 17" tyres by changing the rims and vice-versa?
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It depends on the size also i guess.Originally posted by nike_90 View PostCould anyone tell me how much the irc tyres cost...??
coz i found a dealer selling irc tyres here in mysore and he quotes 2.5k for the tyre size 130/70/17"
I got 110/80 T\L for2.4
I think u got a good deal
Wsigpic
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Okay, let me try.Originally posted by moeed View PostGuys, I have a few queries.
The first obvious difference is the wheel diameter. Wheel = Rim/Alloy + TyreWhat is the difference between 17" and 18" tyres? Some bikes have 17" while others have 18" tyres. What difference does it make in terms of handling, pickup, mileage, etc.
Though the handling, pickup and mileage do depend on many more factors than wheel size, considering them to be constant we can say the following in a very generic way:
handling - smaller wheels have better flick-ability but larger wheels can take bad roads better.
pickup - smaller wheels make for quicker rotation and better pickup. larger wheels make for more relaxed running and higher speed
mileage - larger wheels deliver better mileage
You can, if you change the rim/alloys. You cannot get an 18" tyre onto a 17" alloy or vice versa.can we fit 18" tyres on a bike meant for 17" tyres by changing the rims and vice-versa?
Even when changing the rims, if switching from 17" to 18" then consider the clearances in the swing arm, under the seat and the mud guard.
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i guess the wheel dia can be worked upon. a higher profile low width or low profile wider tyre can give u comparable overall diameters betn 17" and 18" provided we keep rim width same.
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Originally posted by HydBiker View PostOkay, let me try.
The first obvious difference is the wheel diameter. Wheel = Rim/Alloy + Tyre
Though the handling, pickup and mileage do depend on many more factors than wheel size, considering them to be constant we can say the following in a very generic way:
handling - smaller wheels have better flick-ability but larger wheels can take bad roads better.
pickup - smaller wheels make for quicker rotation and better pickup. larger wheels make for more relaxed running and higher speed
mileage - larger wheels deliver better mileage
You can, if you change the rim/alloys. You cannot get an 18" tyre onto a 17" alloy or vice versa.
Even when changing the rims, if switching from 17" to 18" then consider the clearances in the swing arm, under the seat and the mud guard.Thanks a lot for the info guys!Originally posted by viv.nomad View Posti guess the wheel dia can be worked upon. a higher profile low width or low profile wider tyre can give u comparable overall diameters betn 17" and 18" provided we keep rim width same.
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Maverick thanks for the suggestion, it worked! The only time it rubs now is when the bike hits a hump or a bump really hard...that i can live with. Me and my friend drove/rode pillion alternatively up to Puttaparthy this weekend and we didnt have a single problemOriginally posted by MavericK46 View Post@RedApple: Stiffening up the rear oughta be enough to prevent the tyre-mudguard contact. However, the ride quality will take a hit when you're riding solo.
Worth a shot before resorting to something more intrusive...
.
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Riding height
BTW instead of modifying the anchor points why not just use a set of shockabsorbers with slightly more stroke? ( assuming that they are available).Originally posted by Xenologik View PostRedapple, if the tyre still touches after stiffening the suspension, and you dont want to chuck the tyre, then you could possibly add like 1-2 cm of a metal block as a seat where the suspensions are mounted on the swingarm, could be done easily at a workshop where they can do the stuff neatly. Sounds ugly but you wouldnt want you see smear of rubber on the mudguards.
Here's a MSpaint depiction.

- The suspension clamp is usually welded to the swingarm, can be removed without damaging the swingarm.
- Be sure to be there while the weld is done. (entirely depends on the workshop) and have it painted immediately when it cools down.
If you plan to do this, just be sure not to raise it by more than one cm, would really make the saddle height a lot more, and handling would be affected.
That's all i could suggest
When we are on the subject of the shock absorber anchor points and the swinging arm. I would like to point some anomalies I have noticed.
All of the foreign bikes I have seen and about (90% approx.) of the indian bikes have the swinging arm and the shockabsorber anchor points or suspension clamps as mentioned ( shown in the orignal post ) are perfectly aligned. But in the 10% ( including some Honda ), the anchor point welded to the swinging arm is out of alignment. The anchor point is welded partially outside the swinging arm on one side and partially inside the swinging arm on the other side.
This kind of work indicates that the bike body and the swinging arms are not in line. Some measurement is not correct during the design stage or substandard manufacturing is to be suspected.
You could check for yourselves .
See the Attached pictures. Click the images to get a bigger picture.
TVS Fiero is the only one in the picture that has the Shockabsorber Hangers welded correctly and are aligned properly.
This anomaly is only on the Square section Swinging arms employed.sigpic
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Thorns on tyres
The tyre molds have a large number of holes through which steam enters the mold for baking the tyre during manufacturing / re-threading process. The " Thorny things " are rubber entering these steam holes during the process.Originally posted by RanjithMN View Postnoob question guys,
what are the "thorn" kind of things on a tire for?sigpic
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no need for me to do this nowOriginally posted by sudharma View PostBTW instead of modifying the anchor points why not just use a set of shockabsorbers with slightly more stroke? ( assuming that they are available).
When we are on the subject of the shock absorber anchor points and the swinging arm. I would like to point some anomalies I have noticed.
All of the foreign bikes I have seen and about (90% approx.) of the indian bikes have the swinging arm and the shockabsorber anchor points or suspension clamps as mentioned ( shown in the orignal post ) are perfectly aligned. But in the 10% ( including some Honda ), the anchor point welded to the swinging arm is out of alignment. The anchor point is welded partially outside the swinging arm on one side and partially inside the swinging arm on the other side.
This kind of work indicates that the bike body and the swinging arms are not in line. Some measurement is not correct during the design stage or substandard manufacturing is to be suspected.
You could check for yourselves and also I could post some Pictures here.
I don't think any one paying their hard earned money should get something put together in a shoddy manner.
This is my opinion.
, see above
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