Engine Oils

[muztariq]

The bikes odo was 13200km when i filled the FS..Now the odo is 13700km.
The gear slips or false neutral occurs only when the engine is cold( starting 2-3 km) then the gear shifts & clutch is perfect..

The first thing to do is get the bike checked. Also, the oil on the fins would trap dust and reduce the cooling capacity. Clean it and get the problem rectified. I remember a post by Antz.bin where he said that the pulsar's head gasket needs to be changed every 10-12 K as per manual. If not done FS oil leaks. I suspect something similar is happening with your bike.

[yash3]

Barath Petroleum Has come up with new 4Stroke engine oil , under its Brand name Mak - NXT ,

The Product has not mentioned its Grade like 20W40 or 10w30 or whatever ,
but recommends for 125cc + engines !

any one has used it ? The oil is been priced at rs 295 Per litre

THE BRAND STORY OF MAK 4T NXT

[vivekgautams]

seems like only valve cover gasket is leaking (from the pic) not the head gasket. Though the leak is not small. Get the gaskets changed. And keep a watch on oil level until you get that gasket(s) replaced.

I'v seen the oil levels & there is no drop in the level.
I'l go get the gaskets changed asap..Is it expensive..???

Is that the recomended grade oil for your bike? .... better check the owner's manual and revert to recommended grade . Gasket/seal looks to have been damaged by overheating . Replace them and keep a check on heat and oil levels .

TVS recommends a 10W30 oil, TVS TRU4 is a SS oil from TVS.. It is very thin & when engine heats, the oil turns into water & engine starts giving out noises &vibrations.. Reverting back to engine "water" is not an option

The first thing to do is get the bike checked. Also, the oil on the fins would trap dust and reduce the cooling capacity. Clean it and get the problem rectified. I remember a post by Antz.bin where he said that the pulsar's head gasket needs to be changed every 10-12 K as per manual. If not done FS oil leaks. I suspect something similar is happening with your bike.

I had a tappet problem recently..So the mechanic had done some adjustments to the head by opening it up.. May be he has not done a good job putting the head back.. & I think the TRU4 oil had also leaked (just before filling FS) , I guess that FS performance & leaks better than SS .. The leaked oil & dust is the only proof that the seal/ gasket has not been placed correctly by the mechanic..

PS: I will get the gasket/ seal replaced asap.. But should i get the oil removed from the bike before the mechanic starts the work.. FS oil is very very expensive & I cant afford loosing a few more drops

[muztariq]

@ vivekgautams - it would not be a costly affair.. Also, i dont think you need to remove the oil(replacing the same oil back is always an option). You should buy an ax7 bottle for top ups as you already lost some oil and this oil levels starts reducing after 3000 - 4000 km usage so you would anyway need it.. And mixing oils (if no alternative is there) with same visocisty ratings is what API recommends.

[vivekgautams]

@ vivekgautams - it would not be a costly affair.. Also, i dont think you need to remove the oil(replacing the same oil back is always an option). You should buy an ax7 bottle for top ups as you already lost some oil and this oil levels starts reducing after 3000 - 4000 km usage so you would anyway need it.. And mixing oils (if no alternative is there) with same visocisty ratings is what API recommends.

My question is, can the mechanic replace the gasket without removing the oil..??
Currently i have filled Shell Advanced ULTRA 10W40 a FS oil.. Should I top-up with a Shell AX-7 a SS oil or the same Ultra FS..??

[Honda_CBF]

My question is, can the mechanic replace the gasket without removing the oil..??

no need to touch oil or even the lower part of engine for replacing valve cover gaskets. Just make the mechanic understand your intention.

Currently i have filled Shell Advanced ULTRA 10W40 a FS oil.. Should I top-up with a Shell AX-7 a SS oil or the same Ultra FS..??

No problem in doing that. Just keep the oil level at max mark on dip stick/check window.

[andrei79]

@ vivekgautams - it would not be a costly affair.. Also, i dont think you need to remove the oil(replacing the same oil back is always an option). You should buy an ax7 bottle for top ups as you already lost some oil and this oil levels starts reducing after 3000 - 4000 km usage so you would anyway need it.. And mixing oils (if no alternative is there) with same visocisty ratings is what API recommends.

just a question sir what will be the Pros and Cons if i use a fully synthetic 10w40 grade oil like Shell Advanced Ultra or Repsol SINTETICO in my Pulsar 135LS whos recommendation is 20w50?

Heres my driving habits

1. not high speed driver usually 60-80kph but occasionally burst to 100kph
2. but i want to accelerate 0-70-80kph in stop light means high rev shifting
3. usually short trips only going to market, stop and go situation/ city driving
but once a month have a long drive with my club. (about 100km -300km)
4. i usually have a pillion my wife (with combine weight of 140kg)
5. the usual ambient temperature here is from 28 deg celsius to 32 deg celsius

I need advice their is only 2 grade for synthetic oil heavily available here at my area 10w40 and 10w60 difficult to find 20w50 or 10w50 fully synthetic oil

[muztariq]

just a question sir what will be the Pros and Cons if i use a fully synthetic 10w40 grade oil like Shell Advanced Ultra or Repsol SINTETICO in my Pulsar 135LS whos recommendation is 20w50?

Heres my driving habits

1. not high speed driver usually 60-80kph but occasionally burst to 100kph
2. but i want to accelerate 0-70-80kph in stop light means high rev shifting
3. usually short trips only going to market, stop and go situation/ city driving
but once a month have a long drive with my club. (about 100km -300km)
4. i usually have a pillion my wife (with combine weight of 140kg)
5. the usual ambient temperature here is from 28 deg celsius to 32 deg celsius

I need advice their is only 2 grade for synthetic oil heavily available here at my area 10w40 and 10w60 difficult to find 20w50 or 10w50 fully synthetic oil

given only these two choices.. I will always go for 10w40 for a pulsar 135.. For every application you have mentioned. Just keep a check on the oil levels (no matter which oil you use). If 10w40 shows low levels within 1000 km. There is a need for higher viscosity grade.

[andrei79]

given only these two choices.. I will always go for 10w40 for a pulsar 135.. For every application you have mentioned. Just keep a check on the oil levels (no matter which oil you use). If 10w40 shows low levels within 1000 km. There is a need for higher viscosity grade.

what will be the cons of using 10w40 from 20w50 recommendation?

[Honda_CBF]

what will be the cons of using 10w40 from 20w50 recommendation?

i have reports of pulsar 135 doing fine with 20w40 (mineral oil). I also have mixed kind of reports from pulsar 150 ug4.5 owners (also recommended for w50) using 20w40 oil.
I'd say try out that thinner oil, if under any condition you feel like bike is getting strained because of oil then change back. And also slight increase in vibrations in higher rev range is normal with w40.

[antz.bin]

i have reports of pulsar 135 doing fine with 20w40 (mineral oil). I also have mixed kind of reports from pulsar 150 ug4.5 owners (also recommended for w50) using 20w40 oil.
I'd say try out that thinner oil, if under any condition you feel like bike is getting strained because of oil then change back. And also slight increase in vibrations in higher rev range is normal with w40.

Some people jumped in a well and survived. So now everybody should jump in the well.

I mean, How hard is it to stick to manufacturer recommended engine oil grade?

@andrei79 We do have 2* w50 FS oils and 3* w50 SS oils which can be used on Pulsar 135.

[muztariq]

Some people jumped in a well and survived. So now everybody should jump in the well.

I mean, How hard is it to stick to manufacturer recommended engine oil grade?

@andrei79 We do have 2* w50 FS oils and 3* w50 SS oils which can be used on Pulsar 135.

he is not having access to these oils as he is in phillipines(i think) and the cost of the two fs oils he mentioned is more or less same to ss being marketed there.
Though the logical choice would be to go for the recommended grade. But, given a choice between just 10w40 and 10w60, we know 10w40 works well with pulsar 150,180.. Hence, 10w40 would be fine on a pulsar 135.. For the applications he has told, even a good mineral will perform good.

To reply to the cons of 10w40 fs in place of 20w50 mineral in the ambient conditions he listed-
10w40 may decrease in volume with use faster. As its a fs oil, film strength remains quite good.. So the engine would be well protected.

[Honda_CBF]

we know 10w40 works well with pulsar 150,180.. Hence, 10w40 would be fine on a pulsar 135..

w40 may be fine for 135 & 150 but surely not for 180.

[vinay1552]

should i stick to Gulf Pride 4T Plus (20W40)(190rs per lit) Mineral Oil or change to Elf Moto4 Gold (20W40)(240rs per liter) Mineral or Yamaha lube (20W40)(don't know new rate)

as my weekly diving condition is about 180 to 250 km per week and offen change my engine oil in 1300km to 1500km or in one month ..

[Honda_CBF]

should i stick to Gulf Pride 4T Plus (20W40)(190rs per lit) Mineral Oil or change to Elf Moto4 Gold (20W40)(240rs per liter) Mineral or Yamaha lube (20W40)(don't know new rate)

as my weekly diving condition is about 180 to 250 km per week and offen change my engine oil in 1300km to 1500km or in one month ..

All the listed oils are good. (I would have gone with gulf, given the price )
currently using yamalube 20w40 (one of the smoothest feeling oil for my stunner) though costly at 270rs per liter.
why dont you try them all and make your own preferred choice.
btw, I think 1.3k to 1.5k kms change interval in quite frequent