Engine Oils

[Abhijeet Bhattacharjee]

due to excessive braking in stop go traffic most of the kinectic energy gets converted heat energy. but heat is generated in the brakes which has the kinectic energy and torque energy produced.

go easy on the language bro.

one possible explanation is during long drives the continuous high revving will make the temperature inside the cylinder too hot.

Whenever you make a comparison keep most of the data same/constant. Consider this, Case 1: say you're idling at 3K. Case 2: say you're riding at 3K. Guess which'll heat the engine more

[murlidhar]

go easy on the language bro.
Whenever you make a comparison keep most of the data same/constant. Consider this, Case 1: say you're idling at 3K. Case 2: say you're riding at 3K. Guess which'll heat the engine more

sorry about my English
am not good at it but i hope you got the idea what i was trying to convey.

well certainly it is the case 2 that will get the heat fast due to the continuous pulling load...

there will be load on the engine when applying brakes but not if you apply clutch before braking.
this is the reason i am not sure exactly if the bike gets hotter in city first or on long rides.

[Pinaki]

All air-cooled engines overheat while idling or in high-traffic conditions because of less airflow around it . Heat buildup is much slower in high-speed open roads , even under load . Smaller engines tend to be hotter simply because they are more stressed by the same loads(that larger engines may pull easily) . Their oil is also the most stressed since they have tiny sumps and hence very low volume of oil circulating within . So you should not neglect to give small bike engines good oils and timely changes . These are the hard working guys, they need their drink .

[biltu007]

I have yamaha fazer 125cc (2005 model). 15000km done. Help me choosing engine oil best for my bike. I have not much idea about engine oil.

[Rashid]

Tried Castrol Power 1 15W40 In my Slingee, The initial impression was great bike felt a little vibey with an increase in top end performance but now after only 800 kms engine is starting to feel harsh with just a 20kms ride in city, going back to Racer4t soon,Or might try Yamalube 20W40

[Abhijeet Bhattacharjee]

well certainly it is the case 2 that will get the heat fast due to the continuous pulling load...

there will be load on the engine when applying brakes but not if you apply clutch before braking.
this is the reason i am not sure exactly if the bike gets hotter in city first or on long rides.

Nope, heating would be more in Case 1, the explanation was correctly given by Pinaki ji. That's what I tried to tell you but I left you with something to think upon

All air-cooled engines overheat while idling or in high-traffic conditions because of less airflow around it . Heat buildup is much slower in high-speed open roads , even under load . Smaller engines tend to be hotter simply because they are more stressed by the same loads(that larger engines may pull easily) . Their oil is also the most stressed since they have tiny sumps and hence very low volume of oil circulating within . So you should not neglect to give small bike engines good oils and timely changes . These are the hard working guys, they need their drink .

Thanks saar!!! You made my life easy.
That's exactly the reason why I prefer synth for my Discover 135 (for those who are not aware, Discover 135 can give 150cc a run for their money but the engine is very harsh).

Edit:
@Pinaki ji, would Castrol Power 1 Racing 10W50 be good for a 20W40 recommended bike? I idle my bike for a min before riding everyday. Also, how long would the smoothness last, not the oil mind you?

[murlidhar]

hmmm. good explanation no doubt. got me thinking more now.

then how about manufacturers putting forced air intake like thingy which are present in CVT scooters and the era gone 2T scooters in the bikes too?
wouldn't they help in keeping the engine cool?
also why before setting the carb one advises to ride the vehicle for a few kms to let the engine heat up rather than keeping the engine idle for a few mins?

am very new to this.
hopefully you guys can clear my doubts
would be really thankful for helping me gain some knowledge about the machines that we ride : )

[shoeb2015]

hmmm. good explanation no doubt. got me thinking more now.

then how about manufacturers putting forced air intake like thingy which are present in CVT scooters and the era gone 2T scooters in the bikes too?
wouldn't they help in keeping the engine cool?
also why before setting the carb one advises to ride the vehicle for a few kms to let the engine heat up rather than keeping the engine idle for a few mins?

am very new to this.
hopefully you guys can clear my doubts
would be really thankful for helping me gain some knowledge about the machines that we ride : )

Scooters have engine below the seat and there is no way for moving air to directly cool the engine so they have forced air cooling.
Idling the engine will not give correct engine operating temperature.

[Abhijeet Bhattacharjee]

hmmm. good explanation no doubt. got me thinking more now.

then how about manufacturers putting forced air intake like thingy which are present in CVT scooters and the era gone 2T scooters in the bikes too?
wouldn't they help in keeping the engine cool?
also why before setting the carb one advises to ride the vehicle for a few kms to let the engine heat up rather than keeping the engine idle for a few mins?

am very new to this.
hopefully you guys can clear my doubts
would be really thankful for helping me gain some knowledge about the machines that we ride : )

Any vehicle engine is designed to work best within a temperature window, this intentionally is kept at normal operating temperatures which are encountered while riding. Though idling would heat the engine but the spread of the heat & temperature of components would be very different from riding conditions, that's why its advised to tune the carb after riding to set the AFR according to operating conditions and not idling conditions.

[murlidhar]

Scooters have engine below the seat and there is no way for moving air to directly cool the engine so they have forced air cooling.
Idling the engine will not give correct engine operating temperature.

yes but bikes are also not getting enough air when idling. isiliyeh i feel that bikes should have also have forced air intake.

also i am not sure how the forced air cooling works in a scooter. is the air is sucked into the combustion chamber using these fans? if so then why not bikes ( atleast commuter ones ) have this feature. it would help the engine stay cool in heavy traffic conditions.

@shoeb what is the ideal engine operating temperature? i mean would the idling temperature say at x mins will be less than or more than correct engine operating temperature?

[shoeb2015]

^^^
Sent you a PM

[murlidhar]

^^^
Sent you a PM

yes read it. thanks for clearing my doubts

[vishal924]

hii friend , suggest engine oil for my apache rtr fi 160 . thanks in advance

[murlidhar]

hii friend , suggest engine oil for my apache rtr fi 160 . thanks in advance

from what have i heard from many members motul 300v for apache really works good. makes the engine run very smooth.
a bit costly but try it once and then decide if you want to continue with it. : )

[Pinaki]

... @Pinaki ji, would Castrol Power 1 Racing 10W50 be good for a 20W40 recommended bike? I idle my bike for a min before riding everyday. Also, how long would the smoothness last, not the oil mind you?

I have used the CP1 once only in the past (on my yamaha crux), viscosity grade was not marked on the bottle and I didn't like it from the time I poured it in . Engine was vibey and hot . Castrol's active 20w40 is a cheaper better oil . With castrol be extra careful to get a genuine pack .
For a bike that is recommended to use 20w40 oil in our climate , and you fill a 10w40, the bike would rev up quickly , the cost would be overheat and high-wear . You can minimise such consequences by using a high quality 10w40 full synthetic oil , but then it would be an expensive proposition . You'd then want to extend the oil-change interval , to recover the high cost ... which again has bad long-term effects on your engine . Also a 10w40 (synthetic or not) would not be suit for a high-mileage (worn) engine, you'd have other problems then .
The only case I'd suggest one to use a thinner oil on a such a bike is if he'd be operating it in very cold conditions , bordering on freezing temperatures , on a daily basis .
Have you tried a bottle of simple motul 3000 4T plus 20w40 ?

yes but bikes are also not getting enough air when idling. isiliyeh i feel that bikes should have also have forced air intake.
also i am not sure how the forced air cooling works in a scooter. is the air is sucked into the combustion chamber using these fans? if so then why not bikes ( atleast commuter ones ) have this feature. it would help the engine stay cool in heavy traffic conditions...

Scooters have concealed engines since historically Italians think engines are ugly to look at . My dad's Vespa 150 had a solid fan on the side of the engine which used to suck in air and blow it over the engine to cool it , not into the combustion . Combustion chamber's air sucked in thru the air-filter into the carburetor(dellorto) , where it gets mixed with petrol and then burned . The engine also used to have a shroud which enclosed the cooling air circulation around the engine . This is as much I can remember from wasting sundays watching the guy who came to our house to service it monthly . Ofcourse , modern 4-stroke automatics shall vary from this .
Yes many bikes are having oil-coolers and liquid cooling to take care of this problem , some bikers have fitted their own or after-market oil-cooling systems too .

Note : I have been unsuccessfully looking for an old vespa NV/SPL model scooter in Kolkata with clear papers to buy .. for ages now . If anyone from kolkata can please help . Even an older Lamby would do . Any reasonable price .