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Engine Oils

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  • check this link
    Life is like riding a motorcycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving,to move forward you must throtle...

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    • Originally posted by octane_fx View Post
      Thanks Murli ,

      i was under the impression that FS oil for a CT100 may be overkill , Is that true ?
      i want to try Shell ultra advance FS first and then Motul 300 V FS for both .

      some of them told me to stick to Semi Synth for CT100 .

      thanks | Hasan
      IF the bike is of wetclutch lubrication system ...and if its a 100cc engine. no need of a full synthetic oil. As far as i know motul 300V FS is not ideal for 100cc bikes. Its recomended for high performance bikes. Now as i have experienced,full synthetic oils in lower cc engines results in clutch slippage... so plz check this issue and go ahead. semi synthetics are ok.. but synthetics and full synthetics for 100cc bikes .... !!!! i am not sure bro...
      Life is like riding a motorcycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving,to move forward you must throtle...

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      • want to know about
        Shell Advance AX5 20w40

        is it okie for fz16 as in the website it is writen that it is JASO MA i have heard that we have to use JASO MA 2 for Indian bikes

        or should i have to stick to gulf pride 4t plus 20w40

        Comment


        • Originally posted by muztariq View Post
          if one does not have a engine oil lubricated clutch, go straight for the best car engine oils.. Less friction, high mileage, more engine life.



          you are over concerned about your engine oil grade.. A good mineral oil is as protective as a synthetic in normal usage.. On a 100 cc fs are waste of money.
          I remember buying a lot many pens and checking every one and its impact on my hand writing before an exam.. Just wastage of money and time. More of an obsession. The best pen was not the costliest!!
          Keeping a good mineral engine oil and changing it regularly is all what you need on both of your bikes.
          If you are still obsessed with 'giving it the best engine oil' go for motul 300v 10w40 with both machines you have.. Otherwise after a week on a shell your obsession will still pop up that the 'best engine oil' is still not achieved. Motul 300v is the best bike oil (atleast in India).

          Offtopic: Buying the costliest gym equipment doesnt make a man an Arnold or a Sylvester.. Its an obsession which after sometime fades off and the equipment can be found lying untouched at some dirty corner in the house. Hope some guys will agree.
          err are you sure one can go for car engine oil just cause a CVT does not have a wet clutch? kinda looks a very debatable topic to me.

          petrol cars might be having different additives too. besides the catcons are also different when compared to cars!

          honestly cheap good car engine oils would be so good if were true good to dry clutch assembly vehicles

          Comment


          • Originally posted by murlidhar View Post
            err are you sure one can go for car engine oil just cause a CVT does not have a wet clutch? kinda looks a very debatable topic to me.

            petrol cars might be having different additives too. besides the catcons are also different when compared to cars!

            honestly cheap good car engine oils would be so good if were true good to dry clutch assembly vehicles
            nothing much changes.. But if your bike requires 20w40 dont go for 0w40 or 5w40 etc API spec after API SG in dry clutch bikes. Why? These oils may have very less zddp content which will not suit prolonged drain intervals in bikes. By specifications every rating after API SG had half the amount of zddp content. But thankfully, 15w40, 20w40 grades, which are very common bike and diesel grades, were SPARED.

            ZDDP which is the main constitiuent of Bardahl engine oil additive and many other additives though poisons modern catalytic convertors on cars but will protect exceptionally well on a prolonged high speed operation. Have a look at this video from Barbahl. Car running without engine oil!! They also perform these runs in India(have seen their indian site).
            Unable to post the link correctly.
            Type - 'Bardahl no oil run' on you tube and there you go.
            Last edited by muztariq; 07-20-2012, 09:34 PM.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by muztariq View Post
              nothing much changes.. But if your bike requires 20w40 dont go for 0w40 or 5w40 etc API spec after API SG in dry clutch bikes. Why? These oils may have very less zddp content which will not suit prolonged drain intervals in bikes. By specifications every rating after API SG had half the amount of zddp content. But thankfully, 15w40, 20w40 grades, which are very common bike and diesel grades, were SPARED.

              ZDDP which is the main constitiuent of Bardahl engine oil additive and many other additives though poisons modern catalytic convertors on cars but will protect exceptionally well on a prolonged high speed operation. Have a look at this video from Barbahl. Car running without engine oil!! They also perform these runs in India(have seen their indian site).
              Unable to post the link correctly.
              Type - 'Bardahl no oil run' on you tube and there you go.
              https://www.google.com/m?q=bardahl+n...le&channel=new
              ok i am officially confused now.
              from what i make out by reading many articles zddp has zinc and phosphorus which can act as good wall from having metal to metal contact from this zddp can be bad for catcons.
              so how exactly catcons be affected by zddp and the importance of zddp is how much? without it the pollution and black smoke is too much in modern vehicles?

              Comment


              • Originally posted by murlidhar View Post
                ok i am officially confused now.
                from what i make out by reading many articles zddp has zinc and phosphorus which can act as good wall from having metal to metal contact from this zddp can be bad for catcons.
                so how exactly catcons be affected by zddp and the importance of zddp is how much? without it the pollution and black smoke is too much in modern vehicles?
                haha.. It is confusing, but interesting!
                Zddp is a combination of zinc and phosphorus.. It is a vital ingredient of engine oil. It prevents metal to metal contact where engine oil fails to do so.
                But it is a pollutant. The lesser its present in the oil the least pollution the oil will produce on burning. API is reducing this ingredient in modern gasoline engines.
                If an oil has minimum zddp, it will protect similarly to an oil with higher levels, it the minimum amount which is present which is important. But like every other additive, this also degrades with time and usage. Hence if your oil has more at the starting, it will still have sufficient amounts after 5000 kms. But if you are using a car oil in dry clutch bike.. It may reduce to lower levels than required.
                Incorporation of unleaded fuel some years ago and mentioning 'unleaded fuel' only on latest cars of that era was just to prevent the cat cons fitted in those cars from lead poisoning. Same will happen if you use very high zddp level oil in your modern cars.. Race cars run on calculated amounts of zddp.. Race cars and bike teams ask the oil manufacturers about the zddp levels in the oil so that they can calculate and add extra if required.
                Bike catcons are not so sofisticated and will not get poisoned by zddp. Never heard that. May be someday they will.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by vinay1552 View Post
                  want to know about
                  Shell Advance AX5 20w40

                  is it okie for fz16 as in the website it is writen that it is JASO MA i have heard that we have to use JASO MA 2 for Indian bikes

                  or should i have to stick to gulf pride 4t plus 20w40
                  dont worry about ma or ma2. You can use any. But this oil is good for smaller cc engines like 97 cc splendour etc. Though protection wise it is good even on any cc bike which recommends w40 grade. But comfort wise its not so good. Ax7, gulf pride, elf moto gold are some good substitute.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by murlidhar View Post
                    generally speaking motul or valvoline or gulf are good. but look at the grades recommended by karizma and ct100. and then you can decide from the above mentioned companies.
                    now comes the practical aspect. you have to try different oils in the same grade and decide for yourself which one is best for yourself cause grade A might be best for a bike and at the same time it can be below par to other bike.
                    just make sure that while testing these oils the number after w is same ( e.g AwY , BwY , CwY )
                    helo sir just want to ask if you have a link whre i can download owners manual or service manual of bajaj ct-100 i also own that king of bike here in the philippines

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by andrei79 View Post
                      helo sir just want to ask if you have a link whre i can download owners manual or service manual of bajaj ct-100 i also own that king of bike here in the philippines
                      don't call me sir please i already feel old
                      i don't own that bike so i don't have it but yes i will search for it tomorrow morning in the internet. can't promise that i can find it but yes will search and then let you know the progress of my search.

                      Comment


                      • ok there is this mentioning about zddp in Wikipedia that API SJ had about 1300 ppm compared to API SM where it has been reduced to around 600. now typically with zinc and phosphorus reduced in API SM mainly due to its damaging nature of catcons i begin to think with less friction in the engine won't engine have a premature life?

                        also i don't understand is how damaging is this SJ for catcons for latest bikes with these catcons.

                        would be happy if someone cleared my doubts : )
                        Last edited by murlidhar; 07-21-2012, 05:36 PM.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by murlidhar View Post
                          ok there is this mentioning about zddp in Wikipedia that API SJ had about 1300 ppm compared to API SM where it has been reduced to around 600. now typically with zinc and phosphorus reduced in API SM mainly due to its damaging nature of catcons i begin to think with less friction in the engine won't engine have a premature life?

                          also i don't understand is how damaging is this SJ for catcons for latest bikes with these catcons.

                          would be happy if someone cleared my doubts : )
                          dont think too much about zddp mate. Whatever you are getting is sufficient enough. These additives only get upto work when there is no oil film present/left between metal surface and it hardly happens. Only time it can happen (for normal road machine) is at cold start up.
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                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Honda_CBF View Post
                            dont think too much about zddp mate. Whatever you are getting is sufficient enough. These additives only get upto work when there is no oil film present/left between metal surface and it hardly happens. Only time it can happen (for normal road machine) is at cold start up.
                            just for improving knowledge mate

                            the more the zddp the better anti friction properties but latest oils have reduced the zddp in order to save these catcons which help minimize the pollution.

                            so i am wondering by how much can this zddp be damaging the catcons. ?

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by murlidhar View Post
                              you will not find too much of difference in performance in a 100cc engine with fs oils.
                              Originally posted by raj157 View Post
                              As far as i know motul 300V FS is not ideal for 100cc bikes. Its recomended for high performance bikes.
                              What could be the possible cause??
                              Originally posted by raj157 View Post
                              Now as i have experienced,full synthetic oils in lower cc engines results in clutch slippage.
                              Why would it cause clutch slippage? Any plausible explanation?
                              Originally posted by murlidhar View Post
                              you will most probably use in cities so the engine won't get too hot too soon.
                              I used to think an engine heats up quicker inside the cities than on the highways. Enlighten me why you're saying this.
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                              • Originally posted by Abhijeet Bhattacharjee View Post
                                What could be the possible cause??
                                Why would it cause clutch slippage? Any plausible explanation?
                                I used to think an engine heats up quicker inside the cities than on the highways. Enlighten me why you're saying this.
                                there won't be much difference in performance cuz the engine is of lower capacity and tuned for high fuel efficiency. yes with the use of motul you may find the engine running smooth. other good brand oils like gulf and shell can also give the same smoothness at cheaper prices..

                                coming to the heat issue you raised a good point which even i have doubts over it. due to excessive braking in stop go traffic most of the kinectic energy gets converted heat energy. but heat is generated in the brakes which has the kinectic energy and torque energy produced . am not sure of this. i am not in a better position to explain why the engine gets heated more in long drives than short ones.
                                one possible explanation is during long drives the continuous high revving will make the temperature inside the cylinder too hot.

                                but as i said someone who has more knowledge than me can better explain this.

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