Engine Oils

[B7ACKTHORN]

oh thanks a lot, btw can i use it during my first service or should i wait till 2nd??

You can use it from your first service, without no problems whatsoever!

Cheers!
VJ

[thunderbird_m6]

Best oil for 200ns @ 5800kms ???

Dear all,

Looking for an oil change from existing Bajaj oil in my 200ns which has clocked 5800kms., every morning I can literally feel that engine is taking 15-20mins of running time to start working inside. NS owners & pulsar owners - need your valuable inputs as to which one goes well as per the odo reading. I am inclined towards MOTUL range, advice me which one should opt for ! Also advice if to go for FS or SS !

If not Motul, advice which alternate can be best.


Thanks & Regards,
Salman

[B7ACKTHORN]

Best oil for 200ns @ 5800kms ???

Dear all,

Looking for an oil change from existing Bajaj oil in my 200ns which has clocked 5800kms., every morning I can literally feel that engine is taking 15-20mins of running time to start working inside. NS owners & pulsar owners - need your valuable inputs as to which one goes well as per the odo reading. I am inclined towards MOTUL range, advice me which one should opt for ! Also advice if to go for FS or SS !

If not Motul, advice which alternate can be best.


Thanks & Regards,
Salman

You can use either FS or SS, but SS is the best one to go for, as fully synthetic needs a little time to set in. I've known a few guys who've used FS right from the word go on their 180s and 220s, no problem. An oils' sole purpose is to lubricate and keep the engine at optimum temperature.

I'd suggest you go with SS till 10K on the odo.

Regarding the engine, always warm up your engine, no matter what the climate is, keeping the engine idle at start up for a minute or two warms lubricates the engine oil to the sufficient parts after a days work. Warm up for a minute or two, let the engine be warm and then start riding.

Riding from word go isn't a good idea, and you'll feel a sluggishness on the start because the engine isn't warm. Warm up and it will be all fine.

Cheers!
VJ

[thunderbird_m6]

Regarding the engine, always warm up your engine, no matter what the climate is, keeping the engine idle at start up for a minute or two warms lubricates the engine oil to the sufficient parts after a days work. Warm up for a minute or two, let the engine be warm and then start riding.

Riding from word go isn't a good idea, and you'll feel a sluggishness on the start because the engine isn't warm. Warm up and it will be all fine.

Dear VJ,

I usually let the bike heat up for atleast 30 seconds every morning before I engage into riding, also for couple of initial kms - I ride at 30/40 kmph speed to let oil settles up with engine. I will opt for FS as of now, advice which one to go for from Motul - either to go for 5100 20w50 of 7100 (guess this is a FS).

Thanks & Regards.

[B7ACKTHORN]

Regarding the engine, always warm up your engine, no matter what the climate is, keeping the engine idle at start up for a minute or two warms lubricates the engine oil to the sufficient parts after a days work. Warm up for a minute or two, let the engine be warm and then start riding.

Riding from word go isn't a good idea, and you'll feel a sluggishness on the start because the engine isn't warm. Warm up and it will be all fine.

Dear VJ,

I usually let the bike heat up for atleast 30 seconds every morning before I engage into riding, also for couple of initial kms - I ride at 30/40 kmph speed to let oil settles up with engine. I will opt for FS as of now, advice which one to go for from Motul - either to go for 5100 20w50 of 7100 (guess this is a FS).

Thanks & Regards.

Yes 7100 is a FS one, I'd suggest you go for 5100 20w50 for the time being. Both the prices of 5100 and 7100 aren't that much differentiated. 7100 the best cheap FS oil you can get because it's more or less 5100, but you get the edge of being fully synthetic at a good price point, for those who want FS, without pinching their pockets.

Cheers!
VJ

[psr]

In the Last 6 Liters of petrol the ZMA had returned approximately 40 Kms per liter FE in city....244 kms to be exact for 6 liters...bike continues to be smooth,rev happy, and the oil level remains the same. The color and subjective quality also remains the same.....

I Have to do more kms and observe more, before any surmises can be attempted.

While going through MSDS of many oils I was shocked to find that many of the oils we use to-day still has 1~2 % of ZDDP in the oil composition..which was the level used back in 1994..
Gulf Pride, Motul mineral and also the 300V FS, Shell range of oils etc.,all have 1~2 % of ZDDP in their oil....I guess this will continue for some more time before ZDDP is totally removed..
From October 2010 as per API SN/ ILSAC GF-5 spec the allowed level of ZDDP in oil is only 0.1 %.
People owning older vehicles will face accelerated drive train wear and expensive repairs.(Cam,Valves Piston rings etc..)

[B7ACKTHORN]

...and also the 300V FS, Shell range of oils etc.,all have 1~2 % of ZDDP in their oil....I guess this will continue for some more time before ZDDP is totally removed..
From October 2010 as per API SN/ ILSAC GF-5 spec the allowed level of ZDDP in oil is only 0.1 %.
People owning older vehicles will face accelerated drive train wear and expensive repairs.(Cam,Valves Piston rings etc..)

Going through the material data sheet, ZDDP, I think you've quoted it before too. But what damage does it inflict to the engine? I just switched to 300V after using 5100 for years. I just want a little knowledge on what detrimental effects can a ZDDP have apart from the wears you've posted above and why, please. And, I understand the reason you've termed OLDER VEHICLES, but does that mean the modern engines are fool proof with tight tolerances or still susceptible? Just a little detail on the ZDDP part would clarify my doubts. Thx.

Cheers!
VJ

[psr]

Going through the material data sheet, ZDDP, I think you've quoted it before too. But what damage does it inflict to the engine? I just switched to 300V after using 5100 for years. I just want a little knowledge on what detrimental effects can a ZDDP have apart from the wears you've posted above and why, please. And, I understand the reason you've termed OLDER VEHICLES, but does that mean the modern engines are fool proof with tight tolerances or still susceptible? Just a little detail on the ZDDP part would clarify my doubts. Thx.

Cheers!
VJ

Here is a link to a good read on the subject..... Even newer engines of Higher RPM capability stand to have shorter life if the anti-wear agents are reduced in engine oil.

ZDDP: When, Where, What, Why, How?: Engine Builder

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1719932

[B7ACKTHORN]

Re: Engine Oils

Here is a link to a good read on the subject..... Even newer engines of Higher RPM capability stand to have shorter life if the anti-wear agents are reduced in engine oil.

ZDDP: When, Where, What, Why, How?: Engine Builder

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1719932

Thank you PSR Ji will go through it!

Cheers!
VJ

Sent from my LT26ii using Tapatalk 2

[srikany]

Using Servo premium API CF standard - 4 15W40 in Two stroke gear box - Is it safe.

This diesel oil is being used by me after a lot of research on the topic..
Would not add any further info that has been so well explained by pinakiji.
There are three manufacturers/oil grades which make these high quality mineral oils.. Chevron 400, Shell Rotella and Mobil Delvac 1300. Of all my efforts, could only find Mobil Delvac 1300. This oil is used by Volvo buses (which run at 100 - 125 km/hr continously between hyderabad and nearby cities like banglore, vizag, goa, pune mumbai etc.)
it is a very high quality mineral oil. Called Group II oils. Any more refinement will make it Group III (like shell ultra, which costs 750/lt and legally called fully synthetic)
Read here - All About Motor Oil

Who should use it?
Someone who wants a quality mineral in the price of 260 / litre. Its also available in 1 litre packing, but was not available with the dealer when i went to him.
Someone who extends the drain interval due to financial constraints. If you are doing it on normal bike grades, better do it on this oil, you are better protected
Guys who use synthetics just for a smooth ride. This oil is smoothest of all mineral oils i used.

Who shouldn't use it?
High mileage bike (which have run more than 50,000 kms). It may dislodge carbon deposits from where it shouldn't.

Regarding Motul 3000 4T Plus 15W50 - It is not under circulation right now(AFAIK). It was introduced in May 2011 and was discontinued. Some old stocks are still available. But as it is an API SM oil, it is most probably a SS oil (API SN are essentially FS). Motul considers esters as Synthetic but Group III as mineral. This oil may have some Group III in it. Otherwise, its very difficult to get a 15W50 range from a pure mineral!

--
Hi,

It is time that I change the gear box oil for my suzuki Samurai and I would like to know if I can use a Diesel engine oil available at Indian Oil outlet, the product is SERVO Premium CF-4 15W40 meeting API CF-4 standard 240/- per liter- MRP 272. I read somewhere on the internet that guys have been using diesel oils in their air cooled motorcycles in US and they usually use API CI-4 or lower. Please pour in your valuable opinion, suggestion etc. Also would it be ok to use a bit of the oil in the 2t mix say about 200ml for every 400ml of 2t

[Honda_CBF]

--Hi, It is time that I change the gear box oil for my suzuki Samurai and I would like to know if I can use a Diesel engine oil available at Indian Oil outlet, the product is SERVO Premium CF-4 15W40 meeting API CF-4 standard 240/- per liter- MRP 272. I read somewhere on the internet that guys have been using diesel oils in their air cooled motorcycles in US and they usually use API CI-4 or lower. Please pour in your valuable opinion, suggestion etc. Also would it be ok to use a bit of the oil in the 2t mix say about 200ml for every 400ml of 2t

diesel oil is ok to use in 2 stroke's gearboxes. But don't use thinner oils then 15/20w40. But don't use any 4 stroke engine oil as 2T. Or else engine can gum up.. You may not notice any issues. Actually the thing is 2T's are meant burn clean 4T's are meant to ''resist'' burning.

[B7ACKTHORN]

diesel oil is ok to use in 2 stroke's gearboxes. But don't use thinner oils then 15/20w40. But don't use any 4 stroke engine oil as 2T. Or else engine can gum up.. You may not notice any issues. Actually the thing is 2T's are meant burn clean 4T's are meant to ''resist'' burning.

Yes Honda CBF summed it perfectly. 2T engines are oil guzzlers, as the very 2T oil you're using is used to lubricate and used as fuel at the same time. Four stroke has additives which will over time form sludge and the causing engine seizure. Just make sure the grade is good enough.

Cheers!
VJ

[srikany]

diesel oil is ok to use in 2 stroke's gearboxes. But don't use thinner oils then 15/20w40. But don't use any 4 stroke engine oil as 2T. Or else engine can gum up.. You may not notice any issues. Actually the thing is 2T's are meant burn clean 4T's are meant to ''resist'' burning.

Thanks for the details buddy, I have gone ahead and used the 15W 40 API CF-4 Standard engine oil. Have ridden about 30 kms so far and everything seems to be as usual.

[B7ACKTHORN]

Thanks for the details buddy, I have gone ahead and used the 15W 40 API CF-4 Standard engine oil. Have ridden about 30 kms so far and everything seems to be as usual.

Nice! If you can, do let us know how the change went, a detailed review after quite a while will be appreciated.

Cheers!
VJ

[Aditya N Bharadwaj]

I heard 300v spoils the clutch in the long run. Is that true? I saw in the 200NS ownership thread that using 300v leaves the clutch burnt, especially in pulsars. I'm left with 800 ml of unused 300v and I'll have to change the oil in about 1000 kms. Shall I use it or shall I go with 7100 and somehow sell off the 300v?