Engine Oils

[christo]

I'm not really liking the Shell AX7, just 1000+kms in and the oil started to loss it's sticky feel.
Gear shifts are smooth but I feel the engine is heating up more compared to when I was on yamalube 15w50.
Bike: Yamaha fazer.

Edit: is AX7 really an SS oil? Some say it's kind of mineral and not fully SS.



Sent from my WT19i

[BloggingWheels]

I don't find shell ax3 & ax5 good enough. Ax7 (SS oil) is much much better. If anyone wants SS oil in 10w40 grade than another great oil is veedol super swift. Motul 5100 is pretty costly but surely a lovely oil. Regarding other mineral oils mak, servo, hp racer, motul 3000, valvoline champ (not champion), elf moto 4 pro are really good options.

Veedol, I can vouch for. But regarding Ax5 and AX7....I thought that AX5 is SS and AX7 is FS? Can u please clear my doubts? For instance, on my Hunk, the recommended grade is 10w30 and I have used Honda 10w30 mineral (excellent oil-full VFM), 10w30 HH oils (3rd class) 10w30 Veedol (another very good oil). Was planning to try the 10w40 this summer from Veedol/Shell. (mineral only)

[B7ACKTHORN]

I'm not really liking the Shell AX7, just 1000+kms in and the oil started to loss it's sticky feel.
Gear shifts are smooth but I feel the engine is heating up more compared to when I was on yamalube 15w50.
Bike: Yamaha fazer.

Edit: is AX7 really an SS oil? Some say it's kind of mineral and not fully SS.

Sent from my WT19i

AX7 is 100% a mineral grade oil. You can check for the same in the back of the can, where the viscosity index is printed back of the can. I've used Shell AX3 and AX7 but for some reason, I feel the gears shift smoother in AX3. Not to dismiss the fact that AX7 is a good oil, but mineral, for a long time, a big no no for me.

Yamalube 15w50 boy, I still remember, paid like some 450 bucks something three to four years back, and it was a gem of an oil for my VICTOR, like a hot butter knife on a molten butter, the shifts were smoother than anything I've ever experienced and lasted well for 3.5 KMS without any problem whatsoever. Though the engine would feel a little tight on early mornings, once it's heated up, the performance was a bliss.

I'd strongly suggest you go for either Yamalube or AX3.

Cheers!
VJ

[Aditya N Bharadwaj]

Not at all. I've known people who've used the oil for more than 9k KMS without no problem whatsoever. In fact Motul themselves suggest 300V and 5100 for Pulsars, but that's just their take. I think I am hearing a clutch burn issue on a 200NS for the first time.

You can go ahead with 300V without any problems whatsoever! Perhaps the way the guy used the bike or that his clutch might, unluckily would have been a faulty one. But it still befuddles me to know the clutch burning on a 200NS. Strange!

Cheers!
VJ

300v is always safe for Pulsars, three to four of my friends using it in their Pulsar 220's and one Pulsar 200 too. Clutch damage using 300v seems pretty strange. Never happens. As said above, the clutch might be a defective one. Sometimes faulty clutch centres when messed more, they eat the clutch plates
With 300v, my friends Never faced any problem too. U can go with it, Im currently using 300v in my Fz-s too.
Going like butter.

Actually, what I meant was, a guy advised me not to go with 300v on the ownership thread. Not that it actually happened with an NS. He said he knew some people with other pulsars who went through something as such. Thanks for the replies!

[christo]

AX7 is 100% a mineral grade oil. You can check for the same in the back of the can, where the viscosity index is printed back of the can. I've used Shell AX3 and AX7 but for some reason, I feel the gears shift smoother in AX3. Not to dismiss the fact that AX7 is a good oil, but mineral, for a long time, a big no no for me.

Yamalube 15w50 boy, I still remember, paid like some 450 bucks something three to four years back, and it was a gem of an oil for my VICTOR, like a hot butter knife on a molten butter, the shifts were smoother than anything I've ever experienced and lasted well for 3.5 KMS without any problem whatsoever. Though the engine would feel a little tight on early mornings, once it's heated up, the performance was a bliss.

I'd strongly suggest you go for either Yamalube or AX3.

Cheers!
VJ

Thanks :beer:

Btw this AX3, is it mineral? Any idea about its price?
I stopped using yamalube SS because it's damn expensive. Now it costs some 520+ bucks which is too much for a student to bear.

Also I thought 'I can get SS oil under 350 bucks then why go for yamalube that costs 200bucks more'.

Another reason is, while on yamalube after some 2.3k kms oil level used to go down.

Anyway, for peace of mind(I rip the bike) I'll start using yamalube again unless I couldn't find the AX3 here.


Sent from my WT19i

[sinnerz2000]

Checked the shell site, it says ax3 is for small engined bikes like mopeds and low cc motorcycles and is best suited for cold climatic conditions, since summer is almost here it would be better to go for ax5 if ur looking at mineral oils only.

[christo]

Checked the shell site, it says ax3 is for small engined bikes like mopeds and low cc motorcycles and is best suited for cold climatic conditions, since summer is almost here it would be better to go for ax5 if ur looking at mineral oils only.

Oh..then I'll return to yamalube SS. Thanks



Sent from my WT19i

[B7ACKTHORN]

Checked the shell site, it says ax3 is for small engined bikes like mopeds and low cc motorcycles and is best suited for cold climatic conditions, since summer is almost here it would be better to go for ax5 if ur looking at mineral oils only.

Oh..then I'll return to yamalube SS. Thanks

Yes, good choice, Christo. Remember, engine oils are basically like briefs, no one size fits all. There isn't something as bad good, good oil, all oils basically lubricate a given system. Performance of the oil and the engine depends on the engine itself, not just the oil alone. If one has a faulty or bad engine, and changing oil isn't the only solution and vice versa.

Make sure you stay on a particular oil, there definitely is, at least I believe one engine oil that's a favorite for a given motorist, stick to it. If you aren't satisfied with it, then try swapping oils. Swapping to a new brand every now and then isn't recommended, IMHO.

Cheers!
VJ

[muztariq]

Dear PSR sir,

When we compare viscosity across various brands on equal grade oils like (10W40 of Mobil, Shell etc) they all are more or less same. But, its surprising that they are exactly equal for AX7 and Ultra. When I read the fine print I realized that these are just typical viscosities and not actual results.

Dear All,
Shell AX7 is supposed to be Semi-S and Ultra to be FS but the MSDS of these engine oils reveal something else.

AX7 is a highly refined mineral oil whereas Ultra is Highly refined Mineral + 15-20% Synthetic base stock.

If there is anyone who really wants a suggestion from a person like me who loves to experiment a lot with oils..
The best oil for my bike(Fazer 150) is Mobil Super 15W40 "Diesel engine oil" it costs less than 300 per litre and runs 3000 km easily.

People who want to run longer on FS oils are at risk!! how long will this 15-20% Synthetic oil save you? The color of Ultra remains transparent for a long time, the quality is good, the mineral oil is highly refined, but the cost is unjustified.

During the course of engine operation oil gets contaminated and turns acidic.. one should resolve to throw out the acids rather than extending drain intervals.

Also, If someone is having lots of money and wants that 15% extra protection he can opt for FS oils but the additional protection is only there if you maintain recommended drain intervals.

FS = 780 rs / litre - 3000 km / oil change = Rs. 26,000 per lakh km

Mineral = 300 rs / litre - 3000 km / oil change = Rs. 10,000 per lakh km

This is regarding protection (which no FS oil company has proved till date). Regarding comfort - Use diesel engine oil once and you wont feel to drain it even after 3500 kms!!

[absarkhan]

Suggestion needed for Oil

Just completed almost 500kms on my Pulsar 200 Ns,will be giving it for the first service by mondya inshallah, i plan to switch to a better oil after i reach 1000 kms, i have seen people suggesting the Motul 3100 Gold 20w50, Is it good enough? i am a clam rider, i hardly rip my bikes, please advice

[sinnerz2000]

Just completed almost 500kms on my Pulsar 200 Ns,will be giving it for the first service by mondya inshallah, i plan to switch to a better oil after i reach 1000 kms, i have seen people suggesting the Motul 3100 Gold 20w50, Is it good enough? i am a clam rider, i hardly rip my bikes, please advice

Don't use any other engine oil than the one provided by bajaj for ur bike for atleast 2000km

[sinnerz2000]

Is 20w50 engine oil ok for honda unicorn?

[shoeb2015]

Thank you Muztariq and PSR ji for the good work and sharing lots of knowledge with us. I did some research and decided to use the left-over Mobil Delvac Super 1400 15W40 oil in my Humble Splendor plus without any hesitation( which was previously running on Shell AX7 10W40).
It is also surprising to know that 1400 contain 1-2.5% ZDDP whereas 1300 has 5% CALCIUM PHENATE SULPHIDE and NO ZDDP.
Here in Hyderabad Delvac 1400 costs Rs.290/- and Delvac 1300 costs Rs.255/-.

My detailed review of this oil will come up only in April or during Peak summer.

[B7ACKTHORN]

Just completed almost 500kms on my Pulsar 200 Ns,will be giving it for the first service by mondya inshallah, i plan to switch to a better oil after i reach 1000 kms, i have seen people suggesting the Motul 3100 Gold 20w50, Is it good enough? i am a clam rider, i hardly rip my bikes, please advice

You can use mineral grade oil, or stick with Bajaj oil for say 1500KMS which is the most it lasts and then switch to Motul 5100.

Is 20w50 engine oil ok for honda unicorn?

Without a hitch. I used Yamalube 15w50 for my Vic instead of 10w40 for years, without a glitch. It's just not available any more in my place.

Thank you Muztariq and PSR ji for the good work and sharing lots of knowledge with us. I did some research and decided to use the left-over Mobil Delvac Super 1400 15W40 oil in my Humble Splendor plus without any hesitation( which was previously running on Shell AX7 10W40).
It is also surprising to know that 1400 contain 1-2.5% ZDDP whereas 1300 has 5% CALCIUM PHENATE SULPHIDE and NO ZDDP.
Here in Hyderabad Delvac 1400 costs Rs.290/- and Delvac 1300 costs Rs.255/-.

My detailed review of this oil will come up only in April or during Peak summer.

Overbased calcium phenates with detergent and additives are the reason you see the conflict. The main function of these additives is to provide that base required neutralizing corrosive acids and detergency and to control piston deposits as such. ZDDP in and of itself is a an additive. Remember this, engine oil is a blend of performance additives in a base oil, such as CPS or ZDDP, which makes it mineral, semi synthetic or fully sythetic.

Cheers!
VJ

[psr]

Dear PSR sir,

When we compare viscosity across various brands on equal grade oils like (10W40 of Mobil, Shell etc) they all are more or less same. But, its surprising that they are exactly equal for AX7 and Ultra. When I read the fine print I realized that these are just typical viscosities and not actual results.

Good to see the heads up, the viscosity at 100 C for same grade oil Mineral,SS or FS will all be almost equal...It is the 40 C number which will be grossly different,and a look at the Viscosity Index will confirm this....I had posted earlier on this topic, and it is important that an oil is chosen on the least difference in oil Kinematic viscosity between 40 C and 100 c so that there is little difference in the engine's behaviour ,cold to hot, and better protection is offered.
The AX7 is ofcourse a highly refined Mineral oil, but a Good One...
Regarding Diesel oil in petrol engines, beware of the amount of detergents used...more is not better, since it will tend to wash away the oil film under pressure of circulation...
That said I am using the Shell Rimula R3X in my ZMA, and had only completed 500 Kms so far....but amazed that the oil is still looking clean, and bike is performing better than with any oil recommended for Petrol based engines...even the tappet noise I had got attenuated, and when I checked the oil's viscosity by a crude subjective method, found it to be good....All said I am liking the way the engine had become smoother,Plug is looking cleaner, and most importantly FE of 40+ for the last 3 fillings of 8 liters total...now filled 4 liters and running...