Engine Oils

[sabret00the]

1) BPCL Mak 4T 20W50
Just an ordinary mineral oil

2) Motul 300V 15W50 (Very good oil but it is expensive)
I say go for this again

3) castrol activ xtra 20W50
A better mineral oil than BPCL Mak 4T

4) Valvoline Premium 4T 20W50
A good Semi Synthetic alternative

5) Caltex Revtex 20W50
Never heard of this or seen it anywhere

6) Elf Sporti 20W50
Ditto

7) Motul 3000 20w50 4T
In India 30004T is available only in 20W40 AFAIK.

8) Motul 7100 20W50 4T
7100
Guess it is Motul 5100 15W50. Very good Semi synthetic, better than Valvoline Premium 4T!

Thanks a lot for the help dude.

[insanebiker]

Thanks a lot for the help dude.

Anytime mate!

[raman sriharsha]

For hero hondaambition

hi all,,
i just want to know which oil is better for hero honda ambition 135.i hav been using castrol fr last 6 months

[insanebiker]

hi all,,
i just want to know which oil is better for hero honda ambition 135.i hav been using castrol fr last 6 months

Whats ur budget?

Do u want a mineral/Semi Synth/Fully synth one?

[hitanshu]

1) BPCL Mak 4T 20W50
- The famed oil. Not available since almost two years.
2) Motul 300V 15W50 (Very good oil but it is expensive)
- THE most expensive piece of junk for pulsars - god for hondas. enough documented instances of head oil leakage in 180s.
3) castrol activ xtra 20W50
- Decent as well
4) Valvoline Premium 4T 20W50
- API SL. Very good and my current choice, albeit expensive.
5) Caltex Revtex 20W50
- API SG. Good for clutch plates, nothing great otherwise - though some swear by it for reasons best known to themselves
6) Elf Sporti 20W50
- Its an alto oil. barely meets the norms. API SG.
7) Motul 3000 20w50 4T
8) Motul 7100 20W50 4T
- Due to above, I don't come within arm's length of any can labelled Motul.

There are some more options that you ain't considering:
a. Veedol Turbostar - tough to get but nice otherwise.
b. Petronas sprinta 2000 (?) - heard that its cheap and decent.

[Raccoon]

^^^Hitanshu, I dunno where you are based since you are outta coverage area but here in Poona, MAK 20W50 seems to be easily available. The last oil shop I went to had dozens of bottles of those displayed on shelves.

[hitanshu]

oh okay, I am based in (gur) gaon.

And i haven't bothered since past year either - since switching to valvoline.

[atulaherwar]

b. Petronas sprinta 2000 (?) - heard that its cheap and decent.

try out the petronas sprinta 4T 5000 full syn .... . costs around 350 here in mumbai... works damn well..... smoother gear shifts....smooth power band operation....plus if u use SHELL fuel... ur pretty much set then

[sarbanoxley]

Not all oils that call themselves "synthetic" are the same. Also, WIX filters, while a good paper filter (I'm not bad mouthing them - I do sell them) they are just that, a paper filter. They are only rated at about 35 microns. If you're going to run expensive synthetic oil, I highly recommend you run a better filter. Mopar filters are also just paper (cellulose). Fleetguard Stratapore filters are rated to 25 micron. AMSOIL Ea and Donaldson Endurance filters are rated at 15 micron. Couple good oil with good filtration.

There are many oils out there that call themselves synthetic, but not all are created equal, and that's important to know. You do get what you pay for. Group III synthetic oils only use about 12% synthetic base stocks. The rest is hyrdocracked petroleum base stocks. For major oil companies who have their money in crude oil refining, the word "synthetic" is merely a marketing term. It does not mean 100%, but just that a percentage of synthetic base stock goes into their product.

The oils that are commonly mentioned are Group II and Group III synthetics with the exception of Royal Purple, which is a Group V. AMSOIL is a Group IV synthetic (PAO) but also uses Group V Ester technology. It gives you the best of Group IV and Group V synthetics. Mobil 1 is a Group III synthetic. AMSOIL is a Group IV synthetic.

In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.

Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has some of the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. AMSOIL differs from Group III oils. As a Group IV oil, it uses 100% pure synthetic base stocks. This is why you can run it for longer intervals.

Synthetic oils were originally designed for the purpose of having a very pure base oil with excellent properties. By starting from scratch and building up your oil molecules from little pieces, you can pretty much guarantee that every molecule in the oil is just like every other molecule, and therefore the properties are exactly what you designed in, not compromised by impurities. Synthetics were thus originally a reaction to the relatively poor refining processes available from about 1930 to about 1990. The original synthetics were designed for the Army Air Force in WW II. They simply could not make their high- performance turbo-charged radial engines stay alive on the available motor oils of the time.

One process for making synthetic base oils is to start with a chemical called an olefin, and make new molecules by attaching them to each other in long chains, hence "poly." The primary advantage of Poly-Alpha-Olefin "PAO" base oil is that all the molecules in the base oil are pretty much identical, so it's easy to get the base oil to behave exactly as you like. PAOs are called Group IV base oils.

These PAO base oils have an enormous advantage over mineral base oils in low temperature performance and in resistance to oxidation, which is critical in keeping the oil from forming acids.

Another type of base oil is made from refined and processed esters and is called Group V. Esters start life as fatty acids in plants and animals, which are then chemically combined into esters, diesters, and polyesters. Group V base stocks are the most expensive of all to produce. However, the esters are polar molecules and have very significant solvent properties - an ester base oil all by itself will do a very decent job of keeping your engine clean. So, people who are serious about making a superior oil will usually mix some Group V oils into their base stock.

Oils that are strictly Group V ester oils tend to be better suited for high RPM, hot running, air cooled engines. 100% ester based oils are usually more expensive than Group IV oils, and don't have the longevity of PAO (Group IV) or PAO/Ester mixes oils. Group V oils perform very well in the shorter term. They perform very well in race engines and in applications where drain intervals are factory spec or shorter, whereas Group IV oils are better suited for the long haul of extended intervals.

Whatever oil you choose, know what you are buying. Just because the jug says "synthetic" doesn't mean it is made from 100% pure synthetic base stocks.

Source:
regular oil or synthetic oil - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

[atulaherwar]

Not all oils that call themselves "synthetic" are the same. Also, WIX filters, while a good paper filter (I'm not bad mouthing them - I do sell them) they are just that, a paper filter. They are only rated at about 35 microns. If you're going to run expensive synthetic oil, I highly recommend you run a better filter. Mopar filters are also just paper (cellulose). Fleetguard Stratapore filters are rated to 25 micron. AMSOIL Ea and Donaldson Endurance filters are rated at 15 micron. Couple good oil with good filtration.

There are many oils out there that call themselves synthetic, but not all are created equal, and that's important to know. You do get what you pay for. Group III synthetic oils only use about 12% synthetic base stocks. The rest is hyrdocracked petroleum base stocks. For major oil companies who have their money in crude oil refining, the word "synthetic" is merely a marketing term. It does not mean 100%, but just that a percentage of synthetic base stock goes into their product.

The oils that are commonly mentioned are Group II and Group III synthetics with the exception of Royal Purple, which is a Group V. AMSOIL is a Group IV synthetic (PAO) but also uses Group V Ester technology. It gives you the best of Group IV and Group V synthetics. Mobil 1 is a Group III synthetic. AMSOIL is a Group IV synthetic.

In the late 1990s, Castrol started selling an oil made from Group III base oil and called it SynTec Full Synthetic. Mobil sued Castrol, asserting that this oil was not synthetic, but simply a highly refined petroleum oil, and therefore it was false advertising to call it synthetic. In 1999, Mobil lost their lawsuit. It was decided that the word "synthetic" was a marketing term and referred to properties, not to production methods or ingredients. Castrol continues to make SynTec out of Group III base oils, that is highly purified mineral oil with most all of the cockroach bits removed.

Shortly after Mobil lost their lawsuit, most oil companies started reformulating their synthetic oils to use Group III base stocks instead of PAOs or diester stocks as their primary component. Most of the "synthetic oil" you can buy today is actually mostly made of this highly-distilled and purified dino-juice called Group III oil. Group III base oils cost about half as much as the synthetics. By using a blend of mostly Group III oils and a smaller amount of "true" synthetics, the oil companies can produce a product that has some of the same properties as the "true" synthetics, and nearly the same cost as the Group III oil. AMSOIL differs from Group III oils. As a Group IV oil, it uses 100% pure synthetic base stocks. This is why you can run it for longer intervals.

Synthetic oils were originally designed for the purpose of having a very pure base oil with excellent properties. By starting from scratch and building up your oil molecules from little pieces, you can pretty much guarantee that every molecule in the oil is just like every other molecule, and therefore the properties are exactly what you designed in, not compromised by impurities. Synthetics were thus originally a reaction to the relatively poor refining processes available from about 1930 to about 1990. The original synthetics were designed for the Army Air Force in WW II. They simply could not make their high- performance turbo-charged radial engines stay alive on the available motor oils of the time.

One process for making synthetic base oils is to start with a chemical called an olefin, and make new molecules by attaching them to each other in long chains, hence "poly." The primary advantage of Poly-Alpha-Olefin "PAO" base oil is that all the molecules in the base oil are pretty much identical, so it's easy to get the base oil to behave exactly as you like. PAOs are called Group IV base oils.

These PAO base oils have an enormous advantage over mineral base oils in low temperature performance and in resistance to oxidation, which is critical in keeping the oil from forming acids.

Another type of base oil is made from refined and processed esters and is called Group V. Esters start life as fatty acids in plants and animals, which are then chemically combined into esters, diesters, and polyesters. Group V base stocks are the most expensive of all to produce. However, the esters are polar molecules and have very significant solvent properties - an ester base oil all by itself will do a very decent job of keeping your engine clean. So, people who are serious about making a superior oil will usually mix some Group V oils into their base stock.

Oils that are strictly Group V ester oils tend to be better suited for high RPM, hot running, air cooled engines. 100% ester based oils are usually more expensive than Group IV oils, and don't have the longevity of PAO (Group IV) or PAO/Ester mixes oils. Group V oils perform very well in the shorter term. They perform very well in race engines and in applications where drain intervals are factory spec or shorter, whereas Group IV oils are better suited for the long haul of extended intervals.

Whatever oil you choose, know what you are buying. Just because the jug says "synthetic" doesn't mean it is made from 100% pure synthetic base stocks.

Source:
regular oil or synthetic oil - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

wat u said sir is absolutely rite.... but at one point of time...... the base carbon molecules though filter perform the trick we need..... smoother operation..... as for the castrol n motul lawsuit...perhaps the companies that benefited the most out of this was SHELL and PETRONAS.... the legalities of production ,supply and marketing is different in asian n european contries,...... shell primarily being UK based n then havin counterparts in AMERICA.... decided to stay clear of the controversies and decided to additionally increase the base percentage of the *purified* hydro carbons...... something as u refered as takin out all the cockroach material....


similarly wat we get now as fully syn is something that works on the principle of crackin carbon bases with a percentage of FULLY SYN carb base n then refining the entire process to call it FULL syn....


so simply put..

regular cracked carb based petroleum oil + minute percent of synthetic oil = *marketing term* full synthetic

[TomSawyer]

Replace oil filter

Hi guys!
At what intervals is the oil filter supposed to be replaced:
1. 1st 500k - oil change.
2. Every 2000k?

What about the fuel filter?

& What is a centrifugal filter. Saw it mentioned in prior posts.

Thanks!
~K

[HydBiker]

^^^ for which bike?

Please check what is mentioned in your manual and follow that.

[sabret00the]

1) BPCL Mak 4T 20W50
- The famed oil. Not available since almost two years.
2) Motul 300V 15W50 (Very good oil but it is expensive)
- THE most expensive piece of junk for pulsars - god for hondas. enough documented instances of head oil leakage in 180s.
3) castrol activ xtra 20W50
- Decent as well
4) Valvoline Premium 4T 20W50
- API SL. Very good and my current choice, albeit expensive.
5) Caltex Revtex 20W50
- API SG. Good for clutch plates, nothing great otherwise - though some swear by it for reasons best known to themselves
6) Elf Sporti 20W50
- Its an alto oil. barely meets the norms. API SG.
7) Motul 3000 20w50 4T
8) Motul 7100 20W50 4T
- Due to above, I don't come within arm's length of any can labelled Motul.

There are some more options that you ain't considering:
a. Veedol Turbostar - tough to get but nice otherwise.
b. Petronas sprinta 2000 (?) - heard that its cheap and decent.

Thanks a lot Hitanshu and insanebiker for the help.
I switched from Flurosent Green oil (300V) to Flurosent Orange (Vedool Turbostar) and I'm now happy.

[insanebiker]

1) BPCL Mak 4T 20W50
- The famed oil. Not available since almost two years.
2) Motul 300V 15W50 (Very good oil but it is expensive)
- THE most expensive piece of junk for pulsars - god for hondas. enough documented instances of head oil leakage in 180s.
3) castrol activ xtra 20W50
- Decent as well
4) Valvoline Premium 4T 20W50
- API SL. Very good and my current choice, albeit expensive.
5) Caltex Revtex 20W50
- API SG. Good for clutch plates, nothing great otherwise - though some swear by it for reasons best known to themselves
6) Elf Sporti 20W50
- Its an alto oil. barely meets the norms. API SG.
7) Motul 3000 20w50 4T
8) Motul 7100 20W50 4T
- Due to above, I don't come within arm's length of any can labelled Motul.

There are some more options that you ain't considering:
a. Veedol Turbostar - tough to get but nice otherwise.
b. Petronas sprinta 2000 (?) - heard that its cheap and decent.

Bro, dont blame the oil for the head leakage. Head leakage problem is common in pulsars and apaches. 300V is an awesome oil, dont de-rate it.

BTW is Veedol turbostar designed for bikes ? i.e, Dry clutch?

And wats the cost per litre?

[Durvesh]

Anytime mate!

hey
m using currently castrol active 4t 20w50 in ma p220. i changed oil in evry 1250 km.i just want to know which is best oil for pulsar 220 in motul.