Engine Oils

[zayn]

Thanks for the correction

psr your post is incomplete please elaborate more what bike you have,riding condition etc...

[psr]

psr your post is incomplete please elaborate more what bike you have,riding condition etc...

I have a 1987 KB 100 and I use it regularly. I use Castrol GTX for its clutch and gearbox oil and Castrol 2T for the engine . It is 23 yrs old and run 1,20,000Kms. It has seen 3 new bores , 5 Piston changes( 1 of them 110 CC for up grading) two clutch housing ,3 new set of clutch plates,3 sets of chain and sprocket, one set of wheel rim and spokes, 3 sets of tube and tires,one set of Fork tubes(accident at 80 Km) and one time total painting .Past 5 years the riding is very limited...to about 200 Kms/month.

[Huzee]

Some crappy oil the svc put in at 1st service has been giving me hard gearshifts and a slight vibration at high gear n low speeds, like a deep rumble from the engine which cause the footrests to vibe, wasnt happening before... Time to change the oil @ just 1880 kms... this oil didnt even last 1500kms. mines a P220...

HERE I have a Q... We have two choices of Premium Oils AGIP and Motul
BUT which to go for guys
Motul 300v FS is awesome as we all know BUT consider this Agip Racing 4T Full Synthetic Engine Oil 5W40 is a 5W40 Oil where as Motul 300V 4T 15W50 100% Synthetic Engine Oil is a 15W50 oil. Isnt 5W40 much better refer these two links below where I got the above info from... I dont know which to go for now... help

Motul
300V Motul 300V 4T 15W50 100% Synthetic Engine Oil - Rs895.0..

AGIP
Agip Racing 4T Full Synthetic Engine Oil 5W40 - Rs620.00

DO I need to flush the engine before switching from mineral to synthetic ? Any of you guys did this before switching from mineral to synthetic ?

AND Motul products like chain cleaning n lubing are there similar alternatives... Motul products are a bit on the expensive side...
thnkx

[madhav krishna]

Some crappy oil the svc put in at 1st service has been giving me hard gearshifts and a slight vibration at high gear n low speeds, like a deep rumble from the engine which cause the footrests to vibe, wasnt happening before... Time to change the oil @ just 1880 kms... this oil didnt even last 1500kms. mines a P220...

HERE I have a Q... We have two choices of Premium Oils AGIP and Motul
BUT which to go for guys
Motul 300v FS is awesome as we all know BUT consider this Agip Racing 4T Full Synthetic Engine Oil 5W40 is a 5W40 Oil where as Motul 300V 4T 15W50 100% Synthetic Engine Oil is a 15W50 oil. Isnt 5W40 much better refer these two links below where I got the above info from... I dont know which to go for now... help

since your bike is a p220 recommended grade of oil for it is xxW50. Hence use the motul full synthetic. Both agip & motul are very good brands but never use the agip in a p220 because it has got a lower grade than the recommended one. The motul is one of best brands in engine oils.

DO I need to flush the engine before switching from mineral to synthetic ? Any of you guys did this before switching from mineral to synthetic ?

I have never done flushing of engine while shifting from mineral to synthetic. I have read somewhere on XBHP that the flushing could harm the engine & hence i wouldnt recommend it. Most of the engine oils are miscible in nature hence dont worry about flushing your engine.

[Huzee]

since your bike is a p220 recommended grade of oil for it is xxW50. Hence use the motul full synthetic. Both agip & motul are very good brands but never use the agip in a p220 because it has got a lower grade than the recommended one. The motul is one of best brands in engine oils.

I have never done flushing of engine while shifting from mineral to synthetic. I have read somewhere on XBHP that the flushing could harm the engine & hence i wouldnt recommend it. Most of the engine oils are miscible in nature hence dont worry about flushing your engine.

thnkx for a quick reply...
Motul is a better oil, I agree, will go for this... though was a little confused as AGIP's winter spec is 5W and Motul is 15W, and as over here the temp never reaches that low I guess for India a better oil is Motul.
As regds flushing, I have read on some websites and blogs that when shifting from mineral to synth, flushing is recommended, I woudnt like to put these harsh chemical detergents in my bike's engine, they can do more harm than good, BUT will I get full benefit of the synth oil if traces of old mineral oil clings to engine gears and piston

[madhav krishna]

thnkx for a quick reply...
Motul is a better oil, I agree, will go for this... though was a little confused as AGIP's winter spec is 5W and Motul is 15W, and as over here the temp never reaches that low I guess for India a better oil is Motul.

Motul & AGIP both are very good brands but since your engine specifications recommend the grade xxW50 hence the motul suits your engine. I have been using the agip in my bike & am totally satisfied with its performance. Although i have no experience with the motul but still i hear a lot of good reviews for the motul.

As regds flushing, I have read on some websites and blogs that when shifting from mineral to synth, flushing is recommended, I woudnt like to put these harsh chemical detergents in my bike's engine, they can do more harm than good, BUT will I get full benefit of the synth oil if traces of old mineral oil clings to engine gears and piston

hmmmm.... since i have not done the flushing even i dont know the benefits of it. The experts can put some light on this. As i have said above i have shifted to synthetic from mineral without flushing & still i am not facing ANY kind of problems. The engine has become even more smoother than before.
Check this out Motul - car advice, motorcycle advice, ester oil read Q.No.11

[Huzee]

informative link... this is what I found on another well written n informative site

Mixing Mineral and Synthetic oils - the old and busted concepts

For the longest time, I had this to say about mixing mineral and synthetic oils:

• If you've been driving around with mineral oil in your engine for years, don't switch to synthetic oil without preparation. Synthetic oils have been known to dislodge the baked-on deposits from mineral oils and leave them floating around your engine - not good. It's wise to use a flushing oil first (see below).
• If you do decide to change, only go up the scale. If you've been running around on synthetic, don't change down to a mineral-based oil - your engine might not be able to cope with the degradation in lubrication. Consequently, if you've been using mineral oil, try a semi or a full synthetic oil. By degradation, I'm speaking of the wear tolerances that an engine develops based on the oil that it's using. Thicker mineral oils mean thicker layers of oil coating the moving parts (by microns though). Switching to a thinner synthetic oil can cause piston rings to leak and in some very rare cases, piston slap or crank vibration.
• Gaskets and seals! With the makeup of synthetic oils being different from mineral oils, mineral-oil-soaked gaskets and seals have been known to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. Perhaps not that common an occurrence, but worth bearing in mind nevertheless.

Mixing Mineral and Synthetic oils - the new hotness

That's the thing with progress - stuff becomes out-of-date. Fortunately for you, dear reader, the web is a great place to keep things up-to-date, so here's the current thinking on the subject of mixing mineral and synthetic oils. This information is based on the answer to a technical question posed on the Shell Oil website.
There is no scientific data to support the idea that mixing mineral and synthetic oils will damage your engine. When switching from a mineral oil to a synthetic, or vice versa, you will potentially leave a small amount of residual oil in the engine. That's perfectly okay because synthetic oil and mineral-based motor oil are, for the most part, compatible with each other. (The exception is pure synthetics. Polyglycols don't mix with normal mineral oils.)
There is also no problem with switching back and forth between synthetic and mineral based oils. In fact, people who are "in the know" and who operate engines in areas where temperature fluctuations can be especially extreme, switch from mineral oil to synthetic oil for the colder months. They then switch back to mineral oil during the warmer months.
There was a time, years ago, when switching between synthetic oils and mineral oils was not recommended if you had used one product or the other for a long period of time. People experienced problems with seals leaking and high oil consumption but changes in additive chemistry and seal material have taken care of those issues. And that's an important caveat. New seal technology is great, but if you're still driving around in a car from the 80's with its original seals, then this argument becomes a bit of a moot point - your seals are still going to be subject to the old leakage problems no matter what newfangled additives the oil companies are putting in their products.

courtesy Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible

they also add

Flushing oils

These are special compound oils that are very, very thin. They almost have the consistency of tap water when cold as well as hot. Typically they are 0W/20 oils. Don't ever drive with these oils in your engine - it won't last. (Caveat : some hybrid vehicles now require 0W20, so if you're a hybrid driver, check your owner's manual). Their purpose is for cleaning out all the gunk which builds up inside an engine. Note that Mobil1 0W40 is okay, because the '40' denotes that it's actually thick enough at temperature to work. 0W20 just doesn't get that viscous!
Do I need a flushing oil?

Unless there's something seriously wrong with your engine, like you've filled it with milk or shampoo, you really ought never to need a flushing oil. If you're transitioning from a mineral oil to a synthetic oil, likewise you probably don't need to flush the engine first.
If you do decide to do an oil flush, first drain your engine of all it's oil, but leave the old oil filter in place. Next fill it up with flushing oil and run it at a fast idle for about 20 minutes. Finally, drain all this off (and marvel at the crap that comes out with it), replace the oil filter, refill with a good synthetic oil and voila! Clean engine.
Of course, like most things nowadays, there's a condition attached when using flushing oils. In an old engine you really don't want to remove all the deposits. Some of these deposits help seal rings, lifters and even some of the flanges between the heads, covers, pan and the block, where the gaskets are thin. I have heard of engines with over 280,000km that worked fine, but when flushed it failed in a month because the blow-by past the scraper ring (now really clean) contaminated the oil and screwed the rod bearings.
Using Diesel oil for flushing

A question came up some time ago about using diesel-rated oils to flush out petrol engines. The idea was that because of the higher detergent levels in diesel engine oil, it might be a good cleaner / flusher for a non-diesel engine. Well most of the diesel oil specification oils can be used in old petrol engines for cleaning, but you want to use a low specification oil to ensure that you do not over clean your engine and lose compression for example. Generally speaking, an SAE 15W/40 diesel engine oil for about 500 miles might do the trick.

[coolvaibh2010]

Please suggest me!!!!!!

Hello there you expert people, i am a new member on this site & this is my very first post here. On 27th of July this year i purchased new Bajaj Pulsar 150. I wanted to know that which engine oil will be the best for my bike to keep it in top-performing condition. Also i would like to know what would be the drain-interval for the engine-oil you r suggesting, as the first bike of my life until this year i am not having a bit of knowledge about biking and all.
The oil-grading for my bike, as said by the company, is 20W50. I have completed 2K kms until now n on first Free-Service i refilled the Bajaj DTSi oil at my dealer itself, but just after almost 1000 kms my bike started knocking a bit, false-neutrals, n a bit more sounding. So, i changed the oil and refilled with MAK CLASSIC 20W50 (from Bharat Petroleum) as Castrol Active Extra 20W50 is not available at my place!!!!
So, please suggest me the best oil & its drain-interval, i will arrange for the oil anyhow if its not available here!!!!!!!


Thank you.

[sunilg]

Hello there you expert people, i am a new member on this site & this is my very first post here. On 27th of July this year i purchased new Bajaj Pulsar 150. I wanted to know that which engine oil will be the best for my bike to keep it in top-performing condition. Also i would like to know what would be the drain-interval for the engine-oil you r suggesting, as the first bike of my life until this year i am not having a bit of knowledge about biking and all.
The oil-grading for my bike, as said by the company, is 20W50. I have completed 2K kms until now n on first Free-Service i refilled the Bajaj DTSi oil at my dealer itself, but just after almost 1000 kms my bike started knocking a bit, false-neutrals, n a bit more sounding. So, i changed the oil and refilled with MAK CLASSIC 20W50 (from Bharat Petroleum) as Castrol Active Extra 20W50 is not available at my place!!!!
So, please suggest me the best oil & its drain-interval, i will arrange for the oil anyhow if its not available here!!!!!!!


Thank you.

Query approved and threads merged.

[abhis3k]

Hello there you expert people, i am a new member on this site & this is my very first post here. On 27th of July this year i purchased new Bajaj Pulsar 150. I wanted to know that which engine oil will be the best for my bike to keep it in top-performing condition. Also i would like to know what would be the drain-interval for the engine-oil you r suggesting, as the first bike of my life until this year i am not having a bit of knowledge about biking and all.
The oil-grading for my bike, as said by the company, is 20W50. I have completed 2K kms until now n on first Free-Service i refilled the Bajaj DTSi oil at my dealer itself, but just after almost 1000 kms my bike started knocking a bit, false-neutrals, n a bit more sounding. So, i changed the oil and refilled with MAK CLASSIC 20W50 (from Bharat Petroleum) as Castrol Active Extra 20W50 is not available at my place!!!!
So, please suggest me the best oil & its drain-interval, i will arrange for the oil anyhow if its not available here!!!!!!!


Thank you.

Bro welcome to the family. As far as I know Pulsar 135LS, 180 & 220 runs on 20W50 oil. Pulsar 150 however needs 20W40 oil. Please refer to bike manual to be sure.

A good mineral oil for 20W40 Pulsar will be Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T. You can use it upto 5000kms, depending on the riding style. But you may need to top up per 1000-1500kms. Depending on the oil level.

[coolvaibh2010]

Bro welcome to the family. As far as I know Pulsar 135LS, 180 & 220 runs on 20W50 oil. Pulsar 150 however needs 20W40 oil. Please refer to bike manual to be sure.

A good mineral oil for 20W40 Pulsar will be Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T. You can use it upto 5000kms, depending on the riding style. But you may need to top up per 1000-1500kms. Depending on the oil level.

Thanks for taking time to reply me. But one thing i want to mention here is that in my user-manual its been said to add oil of grading 20W50, as i said in my first post, so now i just want to know that which oil will be the best for this grading??????????? Shall i fill Castrol Active Extra which have 20W50 rating? I am confused like hell because all the oil-dealers said to add Castrol Active 20W40 but, as i said earlier, in my manual its been printed very clearly to add any 20W50 oil only!!!!!! So, please reply me as soon as possible

[rd_x_plosiv]

I've Honda unicorn 2009 model, I want to use castrol power 1 racing full synthetic oil in it.
If it is good to change on full synthetic oil, what will be the life span of this oil. like minral oil i've to change it on every 2500 km.

[nin]

any suggestions for the new pulsar135LS ??

[pabi]

p150 engine oil turned black in 2 days

i put castrol power 1 [not the racing] oil for my p150 couple of days back with the help of local mech. today morning i observed that its color is total black and oil level is above the max limit indicator . What could be the cause guys, engine is behaving normally . is it due to in complete draining of previous oil [mech waited till the oil drops stopped while changing] or is there any other cause for it.

whats the stock color of Castrol power 1 oil. it was a light yellowish in the can i purchased .

[Fayad]

i put castrol power 1 [not the racing] oil for my p150 couple of days back with the help of local mech. today morning i observed that its color is total black and oil level is above the max limit indicator . What could be the cause guys, engine is behaving normally . is it due to in complete draining of previous oil [mech waited till the oil drops stopped while changing] or is there any other cause for it.

whats the stock color of Castrol power 1 oil. it was a light yellowish in the can i purchased .

Firstly, bear in mind that this is NOT a simple mistake, you could end up damaging the packing and seals of your gearbox and end up having a very leaky engine. Which we all know, if left unattended will cause your engine to cease functioning and result in much damage.

When the mechanic drains the old oil, it's common knowledge to set the bike on a slight angle by placing a small piece of wood or metal beneath the right leg of the main-stand. This ensures that all the oil from the engine is drained completely.

If this was not done, some of the old oil will remain and will add to the fresh oil added, thus increasing the total volume of oil. The seals of the engine are designed to function at certain pressure thresholds only. Depending on the quantity of excess oil, it'll result in increased stress on the seals which will eventually give out.

Usually it takes just a few days for the fresh oil to turn colour from yellow to light brown or from red to dark brown. This added to the already undrained oil may have affected the overall quality of the oil...

For the time being you could drain a bit of the oil and ensure proper draining during your next 2500 km service...

Hope this helped.