Engine Oils

[Dan_GP]

Yes , Dan'jee , I feel your predicament . The service center guys will never understand the real life problems of us riders . If you are getting that charry smell wafting out of the engine area (and your bike is over 5000 kms old)... your engine is certainly overheating ... whatever the ASC may say . I know that dreadful smell . The harshness etc of your engine is directly related to overheat . If possible , have the bike checked as a whole from a different more reliable place immediately.
I can assure you that there should be no technical problem in using FS motul 300v or for that matter any other good FS oil of 10w30 grade in your kari . The kind of riding you are doing does justify a FS oil . It also makes running a FS oil somewhat more economical than mineral . You should even (more appropriately) use a 15w50/15w40 Full Synthetic oil . Don't worry , no problem with HH catalytic converters & FS oil reported ever .Also do tell us about the climate(temps) you usually encounter during your long rides and oil change intervals .

Anyway, it is common for new engines to heat up (a lot).. not a specific problem.. unless this persists after say 5000 kms . You just have to be careful to not let it get too hot .. and rest the bike to cool it along the way if needed . Too hot is when a drop of water(or spit) placed on the engine casing,evaporates(disappears completely) almost instantaneously( within 1-2 secs ) .
I would have suggested you to shift to a good 20w40 oil , but the problem in that is .. using any oil other than the HH 10w30 will void the engine warranty on your new bike , something you don't want with an expensive bike like the kari-zmr .

My ZMR done close to 7k kms on odo, I ride in different climatic conditions, but most of the time above 25degrees celcius(means dry zone riding)..

Cannot touch the engine or casing with bare hands when it is hot, and when some water sprinkled it eveporates in an instant.. even a bottle full of water evaporates when sprinkled on the engine..(Definite overheating, isn't it)

But, till no trobles as tappet noise or any other noises.. But when the engine gets hot, engine becomes very harsh and finding nutral is hard too..

I drain the currently using 20W40 castrol mineral within 1500kms and do it for myself as HH service ppl refuse t change oil to a different one..

Is it a optimum time for me to switch to FS oil, if it is, then what grade do you recommend, and if it is not, how much more kms I should wait till I switch to a FS oil..

Thanks once again..

[dhiraj]

My ZMR done close to 7k kms on odo, I ride in different climatic conditions, but most of the time above 25degrees celcius(means dry zone riding)..

Cannot touch the engine or casing with bare hands when it is hot, and when some water sprinkled it eveporates in an instant.. even a bottle full of water evaporates when sprinkled on the engine..(Definite overheating, isn't it)

But, till no trobles as tappet noise or any other noises.. But when the engine gets hot, engine becomes very harsh and finding nutral is hard too..

I drain the currently using 20W40 castrol mineral within 1500kms and do it for myself as HH service ppl refuse t change oil to a different one..

Is it a optimum time for me to switch to FS oil, if it is, then what grade do you recommend, and if it is not, how much more kms I should wait till I switch to a FS oil..

Thanks once again..

Try Honda 10w30 FS oil, i am using it clocked 2.5 kms till date, no issues, no overheating, finding of neutral is now very very easy..

[sandeepcf]

Is it a optimum time for me to switch to FS oil, if it is, then what grade do you recommend, and if it is not, how much more kms I should wait till I switch to a FS oil...

There would be no problem in switching to FS since you have already completed 7k kms. Since all currently easily available synthetics have grades like 10w40, 10w50,15w50, go for 10w40 which is close to HH's 10w30 grade. Go for 10w50/15w50 only if 10w40 doesn't meet your requirements. My recommendation as final resort is Motul 300v 10w40.

Also check for other reasons of overheating starting with Air/Fuel Ratio(also the airfilter), Spark Plug GAP, Clutch Plates.

[siddhesh]

Common complain from ZMR riders , specially when the bike is new and I keep hearing this (not just here on xbhp too) . HH 10w30 oil comes in 3 makes(varieties) .. BPCL(mak) / Savita Chem(Idemitsu) / TideWater-veedol(nippon oil) . Can you find/tell us exactly which one they are pouring in your engine at your ASC ? the maker is written on the back label of bottle .
Anyway, it is common for new engines to heat up (a lot).. not a specific problem.. unless this persists after say 5000 kms . You just have to be careful to not let it get too hot .. and rest the bike to cool it along the way if needed . Too hot is when a drop of water(or spit) placed on the engine casing,evaporates(disappears completely) almost instantaneously( within 1-2 secs ) .
I would have suggested you to shift to a good 20w40 oil , but the problem in that is .. using any oil other than the HH 10w30 will void the engine warranty on your new bike , something you don't want with an expensive bike like the kari-zmr .

i own a zma-r nt a zmr and the svc had put TideWater-veedol(nippon oil) i guess n wen i had changed the oil the box had a splendor+ pic on it.
n which 20w40 oil should i go for motul or gulf 4t pride,shell,honda.i m also facing engine knocking problem at low speeds...

[paulsonaivy]

Yes, i am here to promote this oil here in India
The website says the truth,
slowly and steadly all will know
rgds paul

[paulsonaivy]

Even i used to think the same way as you guys think,
but after the test done on it,i can say its the worlds best oil
rgds paul

The website makes some pretty bold statements which are too good to be true. Seriously paul, are you here to promote this product ?




Well my engine gets pretty hot too, but as you suggested my bike is new, I am ignoring it till the engine beds in properly in about 5k kms. After a descent distance ride when I stop, hot air and the smell of heated metal comes up. No charring smell of the rubber parts though. The cylinder head can be touched with fingers but the lower part is the hottest. Once I burnt my index finger with a blister the size of a grape when absent minded me tried to clean some dirt off the bend-pipe. Service center guys tell me it's normal for a 350cc long stroke engine, but personally I would have liked it a little bit cooler. Maybe the changeover to Motul 3000 will help the engine run cooler.

Sounded very much like other snake-oils to me all over paul . Do you work for/sell the GToil ?


Yes , Dan'jee , I feel your predicament . The service center guys will never understand the real life problems of us riders . If you are getting that charry smell wafting out of the engine area (and your bike is over 5000 kms old)... your engine is certainly overheating ... whatever the ASC may say . I know that dreadful smell . The harshness etc of your engine is directly related to overheat . If possible , have the bike checked as a whole from a different more reliable place immediately.
I can assure you that there should be no technical problem in using FS motul 300v or for that matter any other good FS oil of 10w30 grade in your kari . The kind of riding you are doing does justify a FS oil . It also makes running a FS oil somewhat more economical than mineral . You should even (more appropriately) use a 15w50/15w40 Full Synthetic oil . Don't worry , no problem with HH catalytic converters & FS oil reported ever .Also do tell us about the climate(temps) you usually encounter during your long rides and oil change intervals .

What ? Is this a new oil from motul ? Never seen it in shop yet .. kindly hellbreaker'jee .. more details & pics plzzz ?
Common complain from ZMR riders , specially when the bike is new and I keep hearing this (not just here on xbhp too) . HH 10w30 oil comes in 3 makes(varieties) .. BPCL(mak) / Savita Chem(Idemitsu) / TideWater-veedol(nippon oil) . Can you find/tell us exactly which one they are pouring in your engine at your ASC ? the maker is written on the back label of bottle .
Anyway, it is common for new engines to heat up (a lot).. not a specific problem.. unless this persists after say 5000 kms . You just have to be careful to not let it get too hot .. and rest the bike to cool it along the way if needed . Too hot is when a drop of water(or spit) placed on the engine casing,evaporates(disappears completely) almost instantaneously( within 1-2 secs ) .
I would have suggested you to shift to a good 20w40 oil , but the problem in that is .. using any oil other than the HH 10w30 will void the engine warranty on your new bike , something you don't want with an expensive bike like the kari-zmr .

[anindyameister]

Yes, i am here to promote this oil here in India
The website says the truth,
slowly and steadly all will know
rgds paul

Can you provide any link to any kind of online testimonials of users who have used this product other than you ? This does not include any proprietary sites, but discussion boards and forums.

[MSN1]

Yes, i am here to promote this oil here in India
The website says the truth,
slowly and steadly all will know
rgds paul

checked the website, haven't find any grade details like 20 W 40 or 5 W - 30

could you please enlighten us on that part

[paulsonaivy]

Can you provide any link to any kind of online testimonials of users who have used this product other than you ? This does not include any proprietary sites, but discussion boards and forums.

Many of them have used it,pls wait for a few days,i think you will get a better feed back from the XBHP guys ,thats better so that you can atleast not say this is a snake oil or like normal engine oil or additive
i am not answering the question which you put bcos i have to safe gaurd the product, but only want to know people abt this oil
which can stop global warming
rgds paul

[hellbreaker46]

Here's the pic of Motul 3100 gold 20W50, for which pinaki asked

[Honda_CBF]

@ paul,
that gt oil can be used instead of engine oil right??
What's the price of 1 liter can?
Whats its SAE grade?
And what are its components?

[Pinaki]

My ZMR done close to 7k kms on odo, I ride in different climatic conditions, but most of the time above 25degrees celcius(means dry zone riding)..
Cannot touch the engine or casing with bare hands when it is hot, and when some water sprinkled it eveporates in an instant.. even a bottle full of water evaporates when sprinkled on the engine..(Definite overheating, isn't it)
But, till no trobles as tappet noise or any other noises.. But when the engine gets hot, engine becomes very harsh and finding nutral is hard too..
I drain the currently using 20W40 castrol mineral within 1500kms and do it for myself as HH service ppl refuse t change oil to a different one..
Is it a optimum time for me to switch to FS oil, if it is, then what grade do you recommend, and if it is not, how much more kms I should wait till I switch to a FS oil..
Thanks once again..

Yes , you have a serious overheat problem . Have the engine & bike checked after 10000kms from a very reliable mechanic or workshop .
For you I would still suggest FS oil now of 15w50 grade . It is still low range , only a bit heavier than your factory grade , stable until much higher temps and able to take lots of abuse & heat . Also keep in mind the warranty thing that I mention later down in this post .

Try Honda 10w30 FS oil, i am using it clocked 2.5 kms till date, no issues, no overheating, finding of neutral is now very very easy..

This would be a very good option for city riders, since the oil procured from Honda workshop would be genuine and it is Idemitsu oil , which are reported to be excellent . I'm only not sure if it would be suitable grade for Dan's long & hard riding .

There would be no problem in switching to FS since you have already completed 7k kms. Since all currently easily available synthetics have grades like 10w40, 10w50,15w50, go for 10w40 which is close to HH's 10w30 grade. Go for 10w50/15w50 only if 10w40 doesn't meet your requirements. My recommendation as final resort is Motul 300v 10w40.
Also check for other reasons of overheating starting with Air/Fuel Ratio(also the airfilter), Spark Plug GAP, Clutch Plates.

Yes , all these needs to be checked correctly . Bad idea to attempt to solve a mechanical problem or mis-adjustment with engine oil . Add "clean oil filters & check oil circulation" to this list .

i own a zma-r nt a zmr and the svc had put TideWater-veedol(nippon oil) i guess n wen i had changed the oil the box had a splendor+ pic on it.
n which 20w40 oil should i go for motul or gulf 4t pride,shell,honda.i m also facing engine knocking problem at low speeds...

Ok , that tidewater oil is ok(under test by me now) , as is the idemitsu(could not find here ever) ... only the bpcl make of HH 4T oil is too bad (tested by me) .You can go for motul 3000 4T plus 20w40 . Caveat: remember what i said - using any other oil than the HeroHonda 4T 10w30 will void engine warranty . ( i.e don't tell them ) .

Yes, i am here to promote this oil here in India
The website says the truth,
slowly and steadly all will know
rgds paul

That was a very honest answer Paul . Thanks . I ( and all others here) will consider the oil additive as and when it becomes well tested on motorcycle engines and we see definitive proofs of that . We love our bikes .

Here's the pic of Motul 3100 gold 20W50, for which pinaki asked

Thank you hellbreaker'jee ... it is breaking news for us here .

@ paul,
that gt oil can be used instead of engine oil right??
What's the price of 1 liter can?
Whats its SAE grade?
And what are its components?

No , I think this GTOil is an engine oil additive and not the oil itself . No ?
Well to be frank , from my RC airplane flying days .. Bio oils can be great additives . We used to use a mix of Castor oil and synthetic oils for those motors , which ran on spiked methanol . Castor oil is so tenacious and oily , that metal once exposed to it cannot be fully cleaned off the oil ever , unless you take it to lathe to shave off the surface . It is also very very low friction .. which is why it is still in wide use among RC enthusiasts , despite all companies coming up with synthetic alternatives . Only problem with it is the gum it forms in the engine , we have to take the RC engines apart after every flying day to clean that thoroughly . That would not be practicable in a bike engine . But let us keep out minds open and see ...

[ceebeer]

Pinaki sir,which is the best engine oil for RTR 180?I am posting this on behalf of my friend

[Pinaki]

Cheers Ceebeer'jee . I am not any expert on which bike works best with which oil .. so I cannot give you one-shot answer for this . Various factors needs to be considered . Firstly what is the factory recommended oil for that bike ? How old is the engine ? Has it been overhauled recently ? What are the riding conditions and climate ? etc
If you just read thru this forum , I am sure you'll be able to draw some good pointers from the collective wisdom present here . And some confusion too maybe .

[ceebeer]

Cheers Ceebeer'jee . I am not any expert on which bike works best with which oil .. so I cannot give you one-shot answer for this . Various factors needs to be considered . Firstly what is the factory recommended oil for that bike ? How old is the engine ? Has it been overhauled recently ? What are the riding conditions and climate ? etc
If you just read thru this forum , I am sure you'll be able to draw some good pointers from the collective wisdom present here . And some confusion too maybe .

Thanks for the reply sir.Its a new bike,around 4300kms on odo,recommended grade is 20w40.The temperature is 32C during day and ridden in low traffics.As it is a rev free engine which oil should be the best?He did not have good experience with motul.