Engine Oils

[prajnyan]

Correction . I would not pay heed to mechanics or the manual on this one .
Yamalube 20w40 mineral is very good oil .Don't worry about what is already done . For the future , better keep to 2000kms change, atleast until the bike is run for 10000kms . If you can afford it , do it at 3000kms again with a filter change , it's money well spent . No problem .

Okay point taken.

I'll wait for 500-700km (month end) and replace oil + filter

[Pinaki]

You can save some bucks by buying Motul 3000 4T plus 20w40 , if you can find it , bargain for around 200 Rs / lit bottle . My yamaha's love this oil . Yamalube is motul made too (little diff specs) but you can't bargain the price at the yamaha parts counters .

[prajnyan]

You can save some bucks by buying Motul 3000 4T plus 20w40 , if you can find it , bargain for around 200 Rs / lit bottle . My yamaha's love this oil . Yamalube is motul made too (little diff specs) but you can't bargain the price at the yamaha parts counters .

Okay. But how to make sure they aren't spurious? Also i think the Motul one is SJ grade, which is why its cheaper price.

My bike comes with a cat-con and I think putting SJ oil isnt good for it.
Yamalube is SL. So what do you recommend?

[Honda_CBF]

Okay. But how to make sure they aren't spurious? Also i think the Motul one is SJ grade, which is why its cheaper price.

My bike comes with a cat-con and I think putting SJ oil isnt good for it.
Yamalube is SL. So what do you recommend?

no problem buddy. My car also comes with cat-con, oil used till 85k was API SG/SH no problem till date.
also all hero/honda bikes are recommended for API SJ they also comes with cat-con.
Btw, cat-cons can last more than 2-3 lakhs kms!! (just dont burn oil in your combustion chamber)

[Pinaki]

Okay. But how to make sure they aren't spurious? Also i think the Motul one is SJ grade, which is why its cheaper price ...

Yes & No , you can't guarantee genuine like buying from yamaha's own parts counters . I'm scared of fakemongers too like you and have taken a different approach . I called up motul's regional manager here and asked him to guide me to a dependable authorised shop/dealer near me ... which he gladly did .
Motul 3000 4T plus claims to conform to the API SM rating (2004), which is a higher/newer standard than the SL (1998), so it's supposed to be even better for your cat-con . However, neither yamalube or motul bears the correct API certification symbol , but both have the correct JASO certification , yamalube is JASO MA and motul is JASO MA2 .
I have compared the packaging of both yamalube and motul 20w40 oils and you can see it here http://www.xbhp.com/talkies/629271-post3663.html

A note about API/JASO ratings printed on oil package :
Many oil manufacturers here doesn't really send their oils to the American Petroleum Association's/ Japanese JASO labs for testing & certification . But they print on the product bottle "conforms to" "exceeds the requirements of" "valve-train wear less than" API standard SL SM or JASO MA2 etc etc so and so, taking advatage of our lax laws in the matter . Some also use a fake API-like and/or JASO-like symbol to mislead the buyer as shown below . A real tested in proper labs oil shall bear a certification with number and correct symbol of API or JASO .
An API certificate looks like this -
And a fake one like this -
A real JASO certified oil tested in japan & certified shall bear this symbol and certificate numbers like this -

Many oils marketed here does not bear any of these symbols , just a written claim that it does conform to so and so . Sometimes not even that . Motul's CNG/LPG engine oil 20w50 is one example of such non-tested oil . But unlike castrol , they do not make any compliance claims on it . The situation is very murky and unscrupulous to say it mildly .
It would be very unlikely to find an oil that bear both the symbols simultaneously , i.e has been tested both in the USA and in Japan . So for motorcycle usage , it's sufficient if you just look for the correct JASO certification symbol and number , and take their API conformance claims with a pinch of rock-salt or other digestive substance .

[prajnyan]

Thanks a lot Pinaki Sir, I liked the comparison of Motul against Yamalube. I will surely be going for Motul hence forward.
I agree its more unlikely to find an Motul fake as against a Castrol fake. So I will make sure to buy from a decent dealer for the oil.
Perhaps the reason these come with clear JASO certification is due to the fact that these oils go into Japanese bike engines?

[win32dotex]

bros, i have seen forums telling using Monograde engine oil SAE40 to Pulsar 200 giving better engine performance... have anyone tried using! thanks!

[Honda_CBF]

bros, i have seen forums telling using Monograde engine oil SAE40 to Pulsar 200 giving better engine performance... have anyone tried using! thanks!

then bike must be used in the bracket of a given temperature range, which i believe is 35'C to 42'C.
But then also i dont think monograde oils are JASO MA neither they carry needed detergents or additives, hence not recommended for bike engine.

[Honda_CBF]

bros, i have seen forums telling using Monograde engine oil SAE40 to Pulsar 200 giving better engine performance... have anyone tried using! thanks!

then bike must be used in the bracket of a given temperature, which i believe is 35'C to 42'C.
But then also i dont think monograde oils are JASO MA neither they carry needed detergents or additives, hence not recommended for bike engine.

[greenknight]

Fazer 150

I used Motul FS 15w50 and the viscosity decreased within 500KM leading to vibes... What options do I have?

[Honda_CBF]

Purchased this Valvoline premium 4t

they (shop keeper & official site) said its 20w50 but nothings written on the pack.
also found some leakages


is it an spurious oil??

[Lightsportz]

Purchased this Valvoline premium 4t
[ATTACH]54732[/ATTACH]
they (shop keeper & official site) said its 20w50 but nothings written on the pack.
also found some leakages


is it an spurious oil??

I've used this on my P135. Certainly better than mineral oils. No leakages!. And I think it is original.

[Honda_CBF]

Ok. Thanks for the assurance. Will use it next

[Nigen]

Originally Posted by Nigen
Just a word of caution, when I used Gulf Pride 4t plus in my bike & when I checked the oil level after 200kms of riding, the oil was way way lower. I then had to drain it & poured another oil again. Now its been more than 1000kms with the new oil & it hasn't gone down.

I'm still wondering why my bike drank so much amount of Gulf Pride 4t plus oil. The oil was not burnt & neither there were any oil leaks & yeah when I used Gulf pride 4t plus my bike's gear was lot more harsh & there was a change in the engine sound. I'm yet to ascertain why Gulf din't work out well with my bike whereas I have heard good results from others.

Which bike are you using???

And yeah GULF behaves differently with different bikes. And actually last time I filled 1Liter instead of 900 ML, some of the oil was blown out into the filter box and yesterday when I checked the level was a bit above the maximum point. And all this after running for 2.5k Kms.

The hard transmission doesnt happen all at once, will start only when the oil gets run in.

My ride is a Pulsar UG2, the hard transmission lasted for a good 200kms after oil change & I was forced to change the oil due to dwindling oil level.

Then I'm gonna wait until 30k to open the case on this new bike on psr's word and your experience .

One possibility I can think of is that you guys didn't measure the level correctly while refilling ? After draining the sump and filling with fresh oil, you have to run the bike for some time , then put it on main-stand in a flat place, wait for ten mins , then check the level again with dipstick - thrice , without screwing it in . If you just fill to max mark on dipstick and ride on , the level will be less after your ride . I usually check the level a day after a fresh fill, again ... and make it to max mark on dipstick if less . The surprising thing with my newish(10k kms) splendor+ is that it never drank even one drop of oil up to now . That means never ; be it 10w30 or 20w40 , level remains exact same until I drain at about 2000 kms(max) . Never had to top up , so much so that nowadays after that one check a day after .. I've given up checking the oil level on this bike anymore until I drain it .

Pinaki'ji I always make it a point to check the oil level after every oil change. The bike was rough after changing to Gulf, that was expected out of a new oil. But after 200kms of ride, it became too rough & transmission was gettin me out of my nerves. Then i checked for the oil level & found it was way too low. Immediately got a pack of Gulf 30004t plus & this has been running in my bike for 1.5K w/o any glitch.

[Nigen]

You can save some bucks by buying Motul 3000 4T plus 20w40 , if you can find it , bargain for around 200 Rs / lit bottle . My yamaha's love this oil . Yamalube is motul made too (little diff specs) but you can't bargain the price at the yamaha parts counters .

I got Motul 3000 4T plus 20w40 for Rs.275 two months back from a wholesale dealer. How did you get it for 200 Rs ??