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  • Originally posted by Honda_CBF View Post
    i wont buy that completely. Yes 10w40 is better than 20w40 & 10w40's "being better" part can be only used in very very cold conditions. And this is what i was trying too say in my earlier post(s)
    20w & 10w flows with same rate at 20'C & Around temperatures.
    And there are FS oils in 20w50 grade made by Motul & valvoline.
    Though i agree with the more vii, sooner degradation part.
    Now this is my last attempt to prove it.

    Go to this link : Oil Viscosity ExplainedTherefore, a 0W40 is better than a 10W40, since both offer the same viscosity (SAE40) at running temperature, but the SAE 0W will circulate more readily during a cold start than a SAE 10W.
    Last edited by muztariq; 03-26-2012, 08:44 PM.

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    • Help me over here

      Originally posted by sand_sat View Post
      I have filled it in Engine, when i have done my servicing in the end of the December at 24/12/2012. After that i have gone for a ride in Pune, and now i have completed 3598 kms and three months over.

      Also tell which oil should i put now,since summer has started and we can't use 10W40 grade oil in summer.So now can i go with Castrol Active 20w40, or any other you can suggest.


      Please suggest me in the above case

      Comment


      • Originally posted by sand_sat View Post
        Please suggest me in the above case
        Bro, 10W40 which you have put is the best oil you can buy for a recommendation of 20W40. In summers if you would have been going for 15W50, i would have appreciated.
        Go for 15W50 fully synthetic "Motul" for your vehicle in summers.
        Or else continue using 10W40 throughout the year..

        You have good life of Ultra left.. continue till 6000 kms or six months whichever comes first.. keep a check on oil levels every week.

        Its a misconception that 10W40 cant be used throughout the year.. Guys are using 10W30 throughout the year in a ZMA without oil loss.. its 225 cc.. consumes more fuel.. gets heated more..

        If there is a problem in your bike's clearances then its a problem.. you will lose w30 faster than w40 than w50.. hence in those situations w50 is preferred.

        But if there is no problem in your bikes clearances and you are going by the manufacturer recommendation its no problem at all!
        Last edited by muztariq; 03-26-2012, 09:00 PM.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by muztariq View Post
          Now this is my last attempt to prove it.
          It seems I'm making you mad.. sorry for that

          nope, its not. I'm saying that's the most common cold start condition and also the average lower ambient temp most time of the year (at plains in India) and 20w can handle it without lag. further to add on that, piston ring also holds some oil, which is pretty much enough for first few stroke's lubrication.

          Originally posted by muztariq View Post
          Even a difference of 10% in cold start would have made me put my money in it.
          Okay.. now I see the whole idea of yours..
          btw, I believe, usual cold starts (except in winters) are not that "extreme cold starts" which those 5w & 10w oils are made to handle.

          Happy biking, stay safe
          Regards.
          http://www.facebook.com/ateesh.kumar

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Honda_CBF View Post
            It seems I'm making you mad.. sorry for that


            nope, its not. I'm saying that's the most common cold start condition and also the average lower ambient temp most time of the year (at plains in India) and 20w can handle it without lag. further to add on that, piston ring also holds some oil, which is pretty much enough for first few stroke's lubrication.



            Okay.. now I see the whole idea of yours..
            btw, I believe, usual cold starts (except in winters) are not that "extreme cold starts" which those 5w & 10w oils are made to handle.

            Happy biking, stay safe
            Regards.
            thanks for making an effort to understand.. I believe if i make you, psrji or pinakiji understand anything like this I will have my job cut short.. Otherwise we will keep debating and the reader is not benefitted.
            May be its not so relevant increase but surely, there is an additional protection for the engine if we use these grades.

            Was myself fed up of using shell advance ultra.. My running is low.. 7000 kms per year.. Took ax7 yesterday.. Will put up when i complete six months on ultra. Though i could have used ultra for 1500 rs per year - i am deciding to go for ss as that gives me opportunity to experiment more, imagine 337*4 oil changes per year its equivalent.. But the benefit i am getting is 3 month oil change.. Fresh blood everytime..
            Review of ultra- super cool drive, smooth ride, easy shifts, less noise (it claims and really delivers that) 4000k and it looks like a 500 km mineral.. Available as 10w40 just what i want from an oil for mybike, Contains lots and lots of detergent (no need for diesel oils :-)), contains no vii polymers, maximum amount of zddp in any bike oil i have seen. All this info is from shell ultra msds(material safety data sheet), experience, literature of various oils, shell website etc. I dont work for shell - but, would have loved to..
            Lets hope ax7 fulfills my requirements. Atleast 10w40 is met from the word go.. But it contains vii polymers like many many oils here!!

            Comment


            • Originally posted by sand_sat View Post
              Please suggest me in the above case
              You can try Motul 3000 4T plus 20w40, Gulf Pride 4T 20w40 , Yamalube mineral 4T 20w40 in this grade .. all of which I have used myself and found to be very good oils .

              Comment


              • Originally posted by muztariq View Post
                thanks for making an effort to understand.. I believe if i make you, psrji or pinakiji understand anything like this I will have my job cut short.. Otherwise we will keep debating and the reader is not benefitted.
                May be its not so relevant increase but surely, there is an additional protection for the engine if we use these grades.

                Was myself fed up of using shell advance ultra.. My running is low.. 7000 kms per year.. Took ax7 yesterday.. Will put up when i complete six months on ultra. Though i could have used ultra for 1500 rs per year - i am deciding to go for ss as that gives me opportunity to experiment more, imagine 337*4 oil changes per year its equivalent.. But the benefit i am getting is 3 month oil change.. Fresh blood everytime..
                Review of ultra- super cool drive, smooth ride, easy shifts, less noise (it claims and really delivers that) 4000k and it looks like a 500 km mineral.. Available as 10w40 just what i want from an oil for mybike, Contains lots and lots of detergent (no need for diesel oils :-)), contains no vii polymers, maximum amount of zddp in any bike oil i have seen. All this info is from shell ultra msds(material safety data sheet), experience, literature of various oils, shell website etc. I dont work for shell - but, would have loved to..
                Lets hope ax7 fulfills my requirements. Atleast 10w40 is met from the word go.. But it contains vii polymers like many many oils here!!
                yes, i agree that thin base oils *may* provide added protection.

                And again agreeing to your point that we are not being productive

                my small review of shell VSX (now ax7)
                very good oil, smooth bike, smooth gears, usable life (*on stunner) is around 1800km with mixed kinda riding.. I belive it will last little less in summers.
                I advice early changing of this oil between 1500km to 1800km max.
                http://www.facebook.com/ateesh.kumar

                Comment


                • Originally posted by muztariq View Post
                  thanks for making an effort to understand.. I believe if i make you, psrji or pinakiji understand anything like this I will have my job cut short.. Otherwise we will keep debating and the reader is not benefitted.
                  May be its not so relevant increase but surely, there is an additional protection for the engine if we use these grades.

                  Was myself fed up of using shell advance ultra.. My running is low.. 7000 kms per year.. Took ax7 yesterday.. Will put up when i complete six months on ultra. Though i could have used ultra for 1500 rs per year - i am deciding to go for ss as that gives me opportunity to experiment more, imagine 337*4 oil changes per year its equivalent.. But the benefit i am getting is 3 month oil change.. Fresh blood everytime..
                  Review of ultra- super cool drive, smooth ride, easy shifts, less noise (it claims and really delivers that) 4000k and it looks like a 500 km mineral.. Available as 10w40 just what i want from an oil for mybike, Contains lots and lots of detergent (no need for diesel oils :-)), contains no vii polymers, maximum amount of zddp in any bike oil i have seen. All this info is from shell ultra msds(material safety data sheet), experience, literature of various oils, shell website etc. I dont work for shell - but, would have loved to..
                  Lets hope ax7 fulfills my requirements. Atleast 10w40 is met from the word go.. But it contains vii polymers like many many oils here!!
                  good day sir just want to ask if it is alright to use 10w60 100% fully synthetic PAO based oil to my bike that the manufacturer recommended grade is 20w50 mineral oil from the manual my bike is a pulsar 135ls? thanks

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by andrei79 View Post
                    good day sir just want to ask if it is alright to use 10w60 100% fully synthetic PAO based oil to my bike that the manufacturer recommended grade is 20w50 mineral oil from the manual my bike is a pulsar 135ls? thanks
                    good day to you too.. Why you want to use that 'strange' grade when motul 15w50 fs is available..its the bst synthetic here.
                    If that grade bike oil is available plz share the name and brand.

                    Edit: i am no sir here :-)

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by muztariq View Post
                      good day to you too.. Why you want to use that 'strange' grade when motul 15w50 fs is available..its the bst synthetic here.
                      If that grade bike oil is available plz share the name and brand.

                      Edit: i am no sir here :-)
                      Oops this is motul 15w-50 but mineral oil, u can try this too cheep and best for the beast

                      Sarcasm is my automatic response to stupidity

                      Currently Using Gusto |Enfield Bullet 500 | Ecosport Titanium+ Diesel

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by muztariq View Post
                        good day to you too.. Why you want to use that 'strange' grade when motul 15w50 fs is available..its the bst synthetic here.
                        If that grade bike oil is available plz share the name and brand.

                        Edit: i am no sir here :-)
                        Im from Philippines Motul 300V here cost 950 pesos almost same their in india the oil that i say is ELF MOTO SPORT4 CAMPIONE 10w60 it is 100% PAO based oil not the usual synthetic whos made up of Group III based oil it just cost 450 pesos here in philippines

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by MSN1 View Post
                          Oops this is motul 15w-50 but mineral oil, u can try this too cheep and best for the beast

                          he is asking synthetic bro,

                          i meant motul 300v, factory line, double ester, 100% synthetic, motor oil 15w50.
                          Someone here forgot to read 'fs' written clearly with 15w50 :-)

                          Last edited by muztariq; 03-27-2012, 11:36 PM.

                          Comment


                          • a pulsar 135 would perform excellent with motul 300v.. Its not grade III.. May be some part is grade III but nevertheless would be an excellent oil for your machine.
                            Looking at 10w60, though it looks too thick to start with, but must perform well in 20w50 recommendation. Problem is your engine is not a very high cc, hence most of it will be quite viscous during operational temperatures.. I wouldnt take chance of using higher grade oil 135cc engine, when recommendation is 20w50.

                            Haha,, read between the lines bro- elf you are talking about is 100% synthetic pao-based oil.. Even if it is having 1% pao it becomes that!! 100% synthetic pao-based oil is not 100% pao containing synthetic oil.. Just clever marketing term.
                            Last edited by muztariq; 03-27-2012, 11:22 PM.

                            Comment


                            • Brought Mobil 1 10w40 Fully synthetic engine oil or Karizma ZMR, lets see how it perform second time, i am impressed with its performance previously, lets see now..
                              Replace the words "I have to" with "I choose to" and notice the difference in how you feel.

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by muztariq View Post
                                a pulsar 135 would perform excellent with motul 300v.. Its not grade III.. May be some part is grade III but nevertheless would be an excellent oil for your machine.
                                Looking at 10w60, though it looks too thick to start with, but must perform well in 20w50 recommendation. Problem is your engine is not a very high cc, hence most of it will be quite viscous during operational temperatures.. I wouldnt take chance of using higher grade oil 135cc engine, when recommendation is 20w50.

                                Haha,, read between the lines bro- elf you are talking about is 100% synthetic pao-based oil.. Even if it is having 1% pao it becomes that!! 100% synthetic pao-based oil is not 100% pao containing synthetic oil.. Just clever marketing term.
                                sir Motul 300V is a full synthetic combination of PAO based oil and Ester Based Oil its from Its MSDS European Country doesnt consider Group III oil as a Synthetic the semisynthetic motul 5100 is 70% group III 20% Ester based this is been sell to europe as a semisynthetic but if this is been manufactured in US this will be called Fully synthetic The oil im talking about is ELF MOTO SPORT4 CAMPIONE this is considered racing oil here in philippines 10w60 grade i read its MSDS its 85%-95% PAO based and its cheap for a PAO based oil slightly higher kinematic vicosity from standard of 50 grade usually 16.5-21.9cp but the Elf campione have 22.4cp @ 100 deg celsius almost 0.5 cp difference HTHS is high almost same performance and SPEC of AMSOIL and MOBIL 1 V-TWin! Pls search to web about i think this is good for a bike with nmanufacturer recommendation of 20w50 because it is the only motorcycle oil in the market(as i know) that has 10w60 and most motorcycle is running at 20w50 grade the question is for what kind of motorcycle grade they make this oil?

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