Sandeep_K_Ram

Stock Rocks - especially on ZMA.

Filter - unless you upjet and get the carb tuned... No use. Lot of pain for very little performance increase. Not suggest IMO.

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nirvan

I had this happen to me on my freshly serviced ~7500km old ZMA. The engine sputtered and died out in the middle of a very busy street. Red-faced, I moved aside, out of the way of a rude RTC bus and some annoying autorickshaws that were coming at me like I wasn't there. I did a cursory check before thumbing the starter and she coughed and sputtered but refused to come to life. ZMAs are annoying beasts when they dont start, I hate the sounds they make while cranking the engine in vain. Next try however, she came to life, I rode on and forgot all about it.

The very next day while on a slow turn the engine quit on me suddenly. It took some clumsy legwork to avoid falling comically on my side. This time I was pissed! Cursing the nameless HH mechanics, I pushed the bike under a tree off the busy intersection that this happened at.

Cursing HH and Honda and questioning their much-acclaimed reliability I set the bike on the main stand. Determined to get to the bottom of the problem, I took off the seat and took out the tool kit and a piece of sandpaper I keep stored there.

Getting out the plug spanner paraphernalia, I reached out for the plug cap, which was hot, wanting to give it a firm pull to remove it. I did a double take when it simply came off in my hand with no resistance. It wasn't placed firmly back in position by the stupid **%#@#@*%^ HH mech-trainee who probably cleaned the plug during service a day or two ago! I pressed it back in place, put it all back under the seat and the bike started like it should, with half a crank.

During routine service, menial tasks are all carried out by these 'trainees'. Cleaning plugs & air filters, changing the oil and setting/oiling the chain. Only specialized jobs like carb-tuning, engine assembly and the like warrant the attention of an experienced mechanic. I'd much rather perform these services at home, but continue to visit the HH showroom once every two months or so for the sake of the warranty.

So yeah. Check if the spark plug is tightened right and check if its connector is firmly in place.

ravi@17bhp

I agree with you. We need to check the bike regularly for all these things and do not rely on those mechanics for everything.

vineetg84

yeah u r right..everytime i give my bike for servicing i always find some or the other panel rubbers or screws missing..i make it a point to check the bike thoroughly at the time of delivery and the mechanic comes running "sorry sir i had misplaced the screws..i`ll fix it up in no time"...one query..does the pulsar 220 chain cover fit on the zma?

nirvan

Here's something you can do to strengthen your Karizma's front mudguard, which is prone to cracking near the mounting points. I recommend you do this well before you see any cracks on it as a preventative measure.

I discovered two cracks on my mudguard and stuck them up using fevikwik and m-seal.

The mudguard is mounted onto a metal bracket, and the bolts from the front fork are attached to the bracket, holding the mudguard in place. The mudguard is prone to cracking around the points where the front of the mudguard is attached to the bracket.

What you need:
A tube of fevikwik
1 packet of M-seal
No. 10 spanner
Blunt device to press the M-seal in firmly (like an old rounded pen-cap)
A brush to scrub the underside of the mudguard
A pair of plastic/surgical gloves to keep your fingers clean.

Here's what you do (this assumes you have some skill with this sort of stuff):

Removal & Preparation:
1. Take the mudguard off by loosening and then removing the four bolts that hold it in place. Use a a ratchet/ring spanner to prevent slippage.
2. After the bolts are removed, slide the metal bracket that is under the mudguard off.
3. Gently remove the mudguard by rotating it toward the front (slightly tricky).
4. Scrub the muck off the underside with the brush, paying special attention to the area where the cracks (if any) are.
5. Clean the metal bracket as well.
6. Allow them to dry.

You'll notice the mudguard has a few strengthening plastic ridges on the underside. Cracks develop along and around these areas.

Method:
1. Carefully seal the cracks (if any) using fevikwik. DO this on both the insides and the outsides. Press & hold together if necessary for a minute.
Caution:Fevikwik dries in seconds; you could stick your fingers together or make a mess of painted surfaces. Use as little as possible to avoid runs.
2. Once the fevikwik has dried: Wear the gloves, then thoroughly mix the epoxy & hardener of the m-seal paste together. You'll need the entire contents of the ~100gm package, so just mix it all in one go.
3. Apply the m-seal paste so as to fill the depressions between the strengthening ridges. Take care not to exceed the level of the ridge.
4. Caution: Frequently put the metal bracket in place, checking to see if the bolt-holes are aligned and the m-seal does not obstruct the correct seating/alignment of the bracket with the mudguard. Failure to do so will make it impossible to fit the mudguard back on the bike.
5. Press the m-seal in place with the help of the blunt instrument and shape/level it as required.
6. Check once again to ensure the m-seal isn't obstructing the mudguard in any way.
7. Allow it to dry for an hour.

Fitment:
1. Put the metal bracket in place in between the forks.
2. Gently slide the mudguard back into place, rotating it in backwards.
3. Take your time to align the bolt holes on the mudguard, bracket and forks together. Each time one gets aligned, put a bolt in and turn it a few times for it to hold. (this is tricky too and may require time/patience)
4. Follow steps in (3) until all bolts are in place.
5. Tighten the bolts gently. You'll need quite a bit of torque, so slow and steady here.

You're all set!

Sorry I didn't take pictures when I was doing this. My hands got messed up and I didn't want to mess up the camera and then I forgot when I was putting it back together.

elangoas

Hello PPl, I got a new ZMA R Black yesterday. Completed around 110 Kms. Few things that i wanted to bring attention is that the gear shift is very hard (Up-Shifting & Down-Shifting). Though down-shifting is somewhat convinving, I had been litreally struggling to up-shift the gears. particularly 2nd - 3rd & 4th - 5th. Let me know if this is common in new ZMA. Else suggest me for appropriate action.

pranay

I don't own a ZMA but I have done alot of kms on a ZMA. Gear shifting is one of the best parts of the riding experience, as it has a very smooth gearbox.

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v_310

It's common with a new zma. I believe an engine oil change is due at 100 km. Have you done it? also are you following the company recommended procedure for run-in?

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elangoas

The dealer told me that the engine oil is due for change in the first service. 500 - 750 Kms. Regarding the run-in, i am maintaining the bike below 4K RPM.

praveenkm

Hard gear shift is common for new ZMAs. Change the engine oil immediatly. Dont do runin at constant RPMs. Keep varying the RPMs, keep changing the gears and gradually up the RPMs in each gear.

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